Sydney

day 2 of trying to get the starter out

12 posts in this topic

so, i lowered the engine cradle,  removed the alternator, removed the intercooler and shroud,  found the 2 starter bolts.   

what is my next step?  because i still can't seem to get the starter out.

do i need to remove the a/c compressor and the thermostat housing also?

thanks.

i have yet to get madd at it  (i think i'm doing pretty good so far)  lol.

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The water pump inlet needs to be removed and the ac compressor pulled out of the way.

Clean area with compressed air.

 

Wiggle and push the starter away from you and up. Very tight but it will come out.

 

You are doing very good so far!!!!

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Invest in a Clic hose clamp tool.  The cheap ones are good enough but you can then only attack the Click hose clamp side on.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLIC-R-COLLAR-HOSE-PLIERS-ANGLE-TYPE/272779434918?epid=1961421432&hash=item3f82ebdba6:g:JdQAAOSw0n5ZedY5

The more expensive tools has swivel jaws.  A bit more tricky to use than the cheaper version but they work fine after a bit of practice.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bent-Hose-Clip-Pliers-For-Clic-Clic-r-Clips-190mm-Swivel-Head-Angled-Jaw/282975596122?hash=item41e2a8ee5a:g:Ku0AAOSwKRBbAsk9

Click hose clamps are used all over the Smart so these tools are a must for the serious Smart car owner.

 

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8 hours ago, smart142 said:

The water pump inlet needs to be removed and the ac compressor pulled out of the way.

Clean area with compressed air.

 

Wiggle and push the starter away from you and up. Very tight but it will come out.

 

You are doing very good so far!!!!

I almost have it out. I'm just getting stuck on the water pump inlet part. (would that be the complete thermostat housing you are referring to). There is 2 hoses on it, one from the front of the car and one from the the engine. It seems like I need to remove the whole thing to get room to get the starter out. I am thinking it might just be easier to just loosen the water pump and just move it out of the way a bit.

But would I loose a lot of coolant if I loosened the pump? Or is the pump just mounted to the engine like the a/c compressor?

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That water pump is an internal type thing unlike the AC compressor and altenator etc etc...it lives inside the water passage ways so to speak.  RCI or someone is going through that nighmare now, having to change his water pump. READ his thread....it might stop you from upsetting it if you do not need to.  BUT being the anal guy i am, I'd think about it while the engine is almost out if i were you?  BUT if you are desperate for wheels then maybe not?  It's just it probably is easy to get at in your present condition where the motor is already is what I'm saying, you have done half the hard work already.  So replacing the water pump now before it dies might be preventative type stuff. Your call.

I haven't had this thrill yet. But will drop my motor over the winter months just for giggles as it were to stop future issues.

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1 hour ago, Sydney said:

I almost have it out. I'm just getting stuck on the water pump inlet part. (would that be the complete thermostat housing you are referring to). There is 2 hoses on it, one from the front of the car and one from the the engine. It seems like I need to remove the whole thing to get room to get the starter out. I am thinking it might just be easier to just loosen the water pump and just move it out of the way a bit.

But would I loose a lot of coolant if I loosened the pump? Or is the pump just mounted to the engine like the a/c compressor?

 

Yes. There are 2 bolts holding that inlet on and then it can be lifted up with the 2 hoses still attached.

And yes, you will lose some coolant.

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Ok thanks. I'm going to do one more starter test. (I cleaned up the terminals on the starter) I'm going to jump the spade terminal to the power terminal and see what the starter will do. That way I can also rule out the SAM and everything else that might be between it and the starter.

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Open your starter out and give it a good clean plus lube its bearings and engagement mechanism.  I bet it will turn out just like brand new.

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Day 3 and success. The starter is out.

Now to get it checked out. I did find that the copper connection between the starter and solinoid was almost powder.

One last question, when I removed the water pump inlet pipe, the was no thermostat. (I assume the thermostat is somewhere else?

 

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Yes that copper lead turning into dust is the most common failure on these starters. For that reason I replaced that short lead with insulated lead. A good precaution to avoid lead turning into dust is soaking it in grease. 

 

V piece on water pump is only a branch piece. 

 

Follow short hose from V piece to port and you will find thermostat. 

 

Bleeding cooling system is done by lifting sensor at top of thermostat whilst expansion bottle cap is off. 

 

Remove thermostat and test it now that you have good access. 

 

Suck on large hose barb that connects to radiator. Thermostat should seal if you suck hard. Renew with original Smart or Wähler if it does not seal.  Beware there are lots of really bad aftermarket thermostats the worst being the Gates.   Some even have the internal check valve fitted wrong way. 

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24 minutes ago, tolsen said:

Yes that copper lead turning into dust is the most common failure on these starters. For that reason I replaced that short lead with insulated lead. A good precaution to avoid lead turning into dust is soaking it in grease. 

 

V piece on water pump is only a branch piece. 

 

Follow short hose from V piece to port and you will find thermostat. 

 

Bleeding cooling system is done by lifting sensor at top of thermostat whilst expansion bottle cap is off. 

 

Remove thermostat and test it now that you have good access. 

 

Suck on large hose barb that connects to radiator. Thermostat should seal if you suck hard. Renew with original Smart or Wähler if it does not seal.  Beware there are lots of really bad aftermarket thermostats the worst being the Gates.   Some even have the internal check valve fitted wrong way. 

Thank you very much everyone for you help so far.  

If it wasn't for this group I probably would have just given up on my smarty. I can't wait to get it on the road. They are pretty rare where I am from. Probably because there are no MB dealers or service spots here.

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3 hours ago, Sydney said:

Day 3 and success. The starter is out.

 

 

Good for you, A pro rebuilder would probably charge less than $150 to rebuild.

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