2000 SMART FORTWO DIESEL

[sephirothkadaj 0]

Hello ladies and gents,

 

I have been looking all over for information on replacing my clutch in my wonderful old 2000 smart fortwo.... even this smart car forum has no mention of it . I am very new to the mechanical world and am in dire need of assistance. if anyone has any information that may help me please feel free to reply. I have the workshop manual which i thought was going to read like a haynes manual, but I was sadly mistaken. I went to price out someone else to do this job and it is more than half of what I paid for her so I decided to try it myself which I am now regretting as I have not been able to find any information on my specific car. If more information is needed please ask. Thank you in advance...

[LooseLugNuts 557]

theres nothing special about the car other than you need to be careful about flywheel timing if i remember right there is three ways to install it so its best to mark it before removal

 

something about the crankshaft sensor and injection timing

 

first step would be transmission removal

Edited October 15, 2018 by LooseLugNuts

[sephirothkadaj 0]

5 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

theres nothing special about the car other than you need to be careful about flywheel timing if i remember right there is three ways to install it so its best to mark it before removal

 

something about the crankshaft sensor and injection timing

 

first step would be transmission removal

This is very helpful to know.. should I be replacing the actuator as well?

[tolsen 630]

Evilution has lots of info for the petrol 450 and the diesel is similar.

 

https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=engine&mod=1095

 

A few notes:

1) Do not remove lower shock absorber bolt as stated in one or more of the guides as risk of damaging left side drive shaft inboard boot if rear axle drops too far.

 

2) Those that are sufficiently Smart do not need the special lowering pins.  Instead place the long rear subframe bolts in forward holes, then lower subframe on trolley jack.  Support rear end of subframe on some wooden posts which you need to cut to length so keep a saw ready for that.  Knock a nail into top end of both wooden posts and perhaps bend nail 90 degrees.  This so you can hang each post from a rear mounting hole in subframe.

 

3)  On the diesel, the spider that holds flywheel to crank shaft has four M10 bolts fixing flywheel to spider.  The petrol has only three.

 

4) You have to remove EGR valve.  How to do that will be obvious.

 

5) Of course rear panels must come off too and Evilution tells you how.

 

6) Flywheel is dowel indexed to spider.  Get this wrong and engine won't start.

 

7)  The job will easily take two days perhaps longer if this is your first attempt.

 

Why do you wish to change your clutch?  Are you sure it is worn out or damaged?

 

I recommend you change clutch release fork same time as its socket is prone to being holed by clutch actuator rod.  You could do like me and just build up the socket with weld for extra long life.  Grease socket peridically.  Also ensure you preload clutch acuator so take up any slack in the mechanism.

 

Wish you good luck.

 

PS.  Fit freewheel pulley on alternator when you soon will have good access to alternator.  Engine will run smoother, faster gear changes up, faster acceleration and improved fuel mileage.

[tolsen 630]

Forgot to mention there is a special tigthening sequence when tightening the four subframe bolts:

First left forward, second right forward and either of the two rear bolts last.

 

Reason.  Inspect top surface of subframe around fixing holes whilst lowered and you will see why.

 

Why fit freewheel pulley: 

 

[sephirothkadaj 0]

1 hour ago, tolsen said:

Evilution has lots of info for the petrol 450 and the diesel is similar.

 

https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=engine&mod=1095

 

A few notes:

1) Do not remove lower shock absorber bolt as stated in one or more of the guides as risk of damaging left side drive shaft inboard boot if rear axle drops too far.

 

2) Those that are sufficiently Smart do not need the special lowering pins.  Instead place the long rear subframe bolts in forward holes, then lower subframe on trolley jack.  Support rear end of subframe on some wooden posts which you need to cut to length so keep a saw ready for that.  Knock a nail into top end of both wooden posts and perhaps bend nail 90 degrees.  This so you can hang each post from a rear mounting hole in subframe.

 

3)  On the diesel, the spider that holds flywheel to crank shaft has four M10 bolts fixing flywheel to spider.  The petrol has only three.

 

4) You have to remove EGR valve.  How to do that will be obvious.

 

5) Of course rear panels must come off too and Evilution tells you how.

 

6) Flywheel is dowel indexed to spider.  Get this wrong and engine won't start.

 

7)  The job will easily take two days perhaps longer if this is your first attempt.

 

Why do you wish to change your clutch?  Are you sure it is worn out or damaged?

 

I recommend you change clutch release fork same time as its socket is prone to being holed by clutch actuator rod.  You could do like me and just build up the socket with weld for extra long life.  Grease socket peridically.  Also ensure you preload clutch acuator so take up any slack in the mechanism.

 

Wish you good luck.

 

PS.  Fit freewheel pulley on alternator when you soon will have good access to alternator.  Engine will run smoother, faster gear changes up, faster acceleration and improved fuel mileage.

omg this is amazing.... thank you so much. as to replacing clutch i had an issue when i was in the drivethru i put it in neutral since it was taking awhile, when i put it back in gear all i heard was lots of grinding and then three horizontal lines on the dash display. i took it to a mechanic after about 10-15 minutes of waiting for it to get into gear and they hooked an OBD reader up and printed the codes for me and said the clutch and actuator where going bad and quoted more than half the price of the vehicle. so now i am learning about cars lol. thank you for the advice!!!!

[sephirothkadaj 0]

1 hour ago, tolsen said:

Forgot to mention there is a special tigthening sequence when tightening the four subframe bolts:

First left forward, second right forward and eather of the two rear bolts last.

 

Reason.  Inspect top surface of subframe around fxiing holes whilst lowered and you will see why.

 

Why fit freewheel pulley: 

 

man you all are amazing thank you for the help! and not to mention how quick the assistance came!

[LooseLugNuts 557]

step 2 is to ignore what i said about step 1

 

the new step 1 is to pay attention to everything Tolsen says 

[Willys 747]

42 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

step 2 is to ignore what i said about step 1

 

the new step 1 is to pay attention to everything Tolsen says 

LMAO......lol.....ain't that the truth...lol