Willys

Very close to beat my winter beater to DEATH..!

54 posts in this topic

OK, I've been messing with this car for months, yep probably caused this issue, but can't seem to find it even with the STAR system. Nearly gassed myself checking fuel pressures, cylinder stats, fuel rails presures, Injectors, etc etc etc....everything except #2 cylinder fuel pressure was basically even and perfect. That is from what i can figure out. The things I have done to the car while it's been in the garage. Did the headlight relay mod, removed the EGR  mod, then reversed it without ny change in results, I did reteach the clutch actuator, replaced the reluctor rings in the rear, changed two of the glow plugs(it starts perfectly), 

Everything acts prfectly, and checks right and it's not showing any codes.
BUT, it feels like it's missing on one cylinder....at low RPMs  and you try to bring the up it shakes the roof panels! From the vibration in the engine. It seems to drive fine, once it gets going, but still has this uneven combustion  or a miss if it were a gasolene engine.
The fuel pump pumps out enough fuel, low pressure and high pressures. You can hear the pump kick in and shut off as normal. It changes through gears as it should, but I haven't taken it on a street yet. 

It has sat idle for what 2-3 months and it ran perfectly when I parked it. I would almost say it has a siezed altenator and it's the belt jumping around the pulley, but I can see it moving and also it's charging correctly also. 

I did install a 2" lift kit into it and made doubley sure i didn't pinch or damage any wiring...nope.!  No hoses left undone from the EGR mod, I also took out the intercooler and repaired it, repaired the rotted seam on the muffler and de-cat'ed it also,.....I've checked the SAM for burned connections when I did the headlight relay mod, they were almost perfect, I have also opened up and inspected the silver box next to the battery, it also was like new.  It has no engine light showing, no warning lights staying on, no beeping...?  When I use the STAR system you can hear it communicating with the computers as it needs to, doesn't throw any error messages..?

Now I haven't got to measuring voltages etc for anything yet besides charging....was too dizzy by the time I had worked my way through every page I could find in the STAR.

For those who do not know, you can run the car while using the STAR system as it want transmission shaft speeds and RPMs etc etc.....just to let you know. I didn't realize this until today.  No I haven't run the car on the street yet using the STAR, but will unless someone tells me not to.

Any suggestions would be great.....

IF it wasn't doing this it would be on the road already tonight...augh!  It's finished....now this....

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No, but I did think of that....I know where there are 3 in the wreckers, just how hard is it to get them out..?   now in the cooler months.....what a job I bet?

 

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Hi willys

Where did you get the Star? I would like to get one myself. Sorry I cant help with your problem. What is your location? I am in st catharines.

Dan

 

 

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OK, an update......I have checked everything twice over now, so finally got the nerve up to go after the rear computer, the one attached to the airbox. After wrestling with 3 screws and snapping the other 3 it came off  after the fight with the plug-ins. Those clamps were a bugger!  But after carefull manipulation they finally let go also.   I found some green corrosion on pins 120 and 116, cleaned them off with plastic brush and a bit of sensor cleaner. They are like new now. I also opened up the case and found a spider had made it  her home, long enough to set up house. I removed 2 nests and there was a lot of what looked like fly eyes all over certain tracks on the board...strange for them to follow them...?  Almost like they were magnatized towards the tracks. All cleaned up using compressed air again like new....no bad solder joints etc enywhere....It's all back together now and I'm waiting for silicon to dry  as that was my redneck fix to seal it back into the airbox. Needless to say I'll curse that desission if I ever have to take it out again..lol.  

So fingers crossed it was the green snot on those two pins that was causing my bad vibration from 825 to 1200 RPMs.

 

Tomorrow will be the big day.

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OK, an Update.....bad this time..!

 

When cleaning the pins of green sludge off pins 116 and 120 the ground pins I saw a flash as in a capacitor discharge. I was using a plastic brush similar to a toothbrush with some sensor cleaner knowing anything metal would short something out. But it did anyway. So now I'm searching for a solution to this problem. I have the whole thing in the car and completely rewired etc. I get the single bar on the dash. It is far worse than the 3 bars of death I am learning as it is to do with the ECU. Even the STAR can't speak to the ECU, so that solution is out, unless someone knows how to get around it? My key fob works, opens and locks doors, I can turn key on and get the dash to light up, but I get that single bar and both fuel and temp gauges are full, all bubbles are lit up. All the idiot lights or warning lights are lit also, glow plugs stay lit so that is worrying if I leave key on for long as it will cook glow plugs no..? 

I knew siliconing the ECU would come back to bite me...lol. It actually is letting go easier than I expected. one good thing....?

 

 

So, who knows or has had this single bar issue and solved it besides setting fire to their car.....?    lol

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Did you use acetic acid type silicone?  That could explain a lot.

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The spike happened when it was open on the bench and on a paper towel...not even in the vehicle...I am aware of all issues that could create a spark or conduct a current....at least I thought I did. I thought sensor cleaner wouldn't carry  anything at all seeing as it is supposed to clean electronis etc. Plus using the plastic brush compared to going after things with a small metal screwdriver, common sense stuff...I thought..but still got bit.  The silicon is letting go seeing as the surfaces weren't 100 % clean of dust....i'm guessing....one good thing...it just made a good tight seal.

 

The silicon is GE 100% clear silicon bought at Canadian Tire

Edited by Willys

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4 hours ago, Willys said:

The silicon is GE 100% clear silicon bought at Canadian Tire

 

Does your SILICONE smell like vinegar?

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OK, I'll bite, why?  It's on the outside case not internally or within the seal to close the ecu box, just to hold said box into the airbox...?   Just a question is all.

 

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Maybe had a static flash, When working with open components the board and (you) have to be grounded or you will damage some thing on the board. Or when you were cleaning with the brush the green stuff (oxidized copper) caused a short from a local capacitor.  

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You are the electrical wiz here ...what are your thoughts on solving this issue now?

 

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15 hours ago, Willys said:

OK, I'll bite, why?  It's on the outside case not internally or within the seal to close the ecu box, just to hold said box into the airbox...?   Just a question is all.

 

 

its kind of like using salt water to wash your car

 

sure it works but regular water is much better ...especially if you filter it

 

 

 

(plus its a general internet forum rule that requires us to nitpick)

Edited by LooseLugNuts
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OK, Car is back up and running again after resoldering the whole row of pins in the SAM on the new used  SAM, mine was much better.....oh well. All 3 computers all installed, and sync'ed to the car, 3 keys made also, everything in and finished after swapping dash  and speaker system out to summer car.  

So got the winter beater running again, doing the very same vibrating BS as it was before.....so back to square one....pulling my hair out again!

I finally did the injector bleed back testing now i have the proper sized hosing etc. They are all identical and drip very slowly. Which I take it is good from what I see on the video clips showing how others rate good injectors compared to ones requiring replacement.  Sort of hoping for a bad one to fix or at least point to a definate problem causing the vibration issue.  The car doesn't burn oil or blow any smoke....

So, again I spent a few hours going through the STAR readings  looking for anything out of the ordinary. Again all fuel pressures are perfect, No codes being thrown, no idiot lights lit....nothing. 

 

It runs perfectly after roughly 1200 RPMs but up to that number it vibrates as if it's missing on one cyclinder. It vibrates the roof liner it's that bad..!  It has good pick up when you drive it, no loss of power so to speak driving normally that is. I don't pound on any of my vehicles any more. I'm officially old now.

 

I am almost at the point I may just drive it to see if it resolves itself?   Thoughts?  I do not have a compression tester for a diesel engine....a few for gasoline engines ....but useless for this engine I know. 

 

I just do not wish to get stranded anywhere especially during the winter months with a dead engine...you could freeze to death...lol.

 

I'm open to any and all suggestions.....please and thank you.

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bad engine mount maybe?

 

just wild guess

 

good to hear its running again ...

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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8 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

bad engine mount maybe?

 

just wild guess

 

good to hear its running again ...

I will revisit them today with large crowbar and make 100% sure. When I checked them before no visible signs of wear or cracking, nothing, just dusty.....

 

 

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OK, new thought.......I have a mechanic buddy who is asking if i have done a compression test, a leak down test or a simple supplying air into the cylinder to hear if air is escaping from intake, exhaust, rad or crankcase. Fast simple answer is NO..I haven't yet. I can and have done gasoline engines but a diesel compression test is different pressures and equipment. I have to make something from an old injector to supply shop air into the cylinder.  His theory of why I'm getting this miss after all my electrical testing etc has lead to no possitive results is I have a weak or broken valve spring. Is this something this engine at 140,000kms could be suffering from? He is putting money on this being the cause.  I'm just asking if anyone else has had this problem? I am torn between this and a bad clutch disc as in a piece has come loose or off and that is what's causing the vibration at low RPMs.  I am just looking for the more likely posibility between the two? 
I think I am at the stage now where I either remove the engine or drop the entire rear cradle.....both require me to lengthen my lift to accomodate this to happen. That is why it hasn't been done already today...lol.  OR if others have had just a bad valve spring this is a far simpler issue to test in the car.   BUT, I also have seem a video where someone has used his Xentry or star machine to test compression virtually so to speak....all in the Xentry not touching the car. I have a seperate question on that in the STAR section. Is this a possibility as well...?  The car he was testing was a mercedez sedan not a Smart but he went past the Smart option....so he could have picked the Smart by the looks of it. I have only used DAS to work on my car not Xentry.

Any and all help suggestions is greatly appreciated before I actually get into any of it.   I'll be out buying more 2X10's to make the extention today on my lift.   Hmmmm.......?
 

 

 

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compression test with computer is usually done by scope graphing starter amp draw during a crank cycle and comparing levels

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4 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

compression test with computer is usually done by scope graphing starter amp draw during a crank cycle and comparing levels

So it's something the STAR should be capable of doing..????
I was just wondering IF any of us have done such testing yet and how did it turn out etc etc.

 

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i dont know...i couldnt afford one

 

had to check mine old school way by welding a fitting and pipe to an old hollowed out glow plug and attaching a gauge to it

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Tomorrow I can build the extention to the lift, then I'm taking the subframe completely out and making this drivetrain good......or find out what is what.  Managed to get all the lumber for it today.   Check the entire thing out completely and refurbish it.  I then will have a solid running drive unit IF I ever need one.  That all depends obviously on what I find wrong with it while checking.

Yes I also will be making up a tester as I too can't afford to buy one just for a few tests. Say goodbye to an injector...lol.

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