ACSTECH

Glow Plug remove/install

25 posts in this topic

Took out the first and most easily accessible plug and noticed all the threads were flattened. Started in the new plug and they are also flattening. These don’t work like a crush washer do they? The threads are also longer up the plug but everything else measures the same. They are NGK 6600 Y-543J

7E8C0F25-1484-4AC5-B801-7F9916B798FC.jpeg

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I'd be looking to clean the threads before driving in new plugs....not sure what the thread size is.....sorry.....check evilution

 

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2 minutes ago, Willys said:

I'd be looking to clean the threads before driving in new plugs....not sure what the thread size is.....sorry.....check evilution

 

That is my next step.

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I have a new plug here, so will try and see if i can fit my tap and die set to it.

 

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Thread size is M10x1. 

Ream bores before fitting new glow plugs. 

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Yep M10-1  and my set doesn't have that thread size only M10-1.25 and M10-1.50 size so it may be dificult to get it...?

 

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Common thread size. Mike will know M10x1 is used on rear derailleur mounts. 

Also used on rocker switches and fridge freezer thermostats. 

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I’m looking at $110 T&D kit thinking it has what I need and more so might be worth it

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I have a pretty good set and was surprised to see it wasn't there.  Check if it is the only reason you are buying it....but they are invaluable to own any way.

 

 

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I had to buy my M10x1 tap and die separately.  Came all the way from

China for less than smallest package post from here. 

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Bought that kit got all the way home realized it’s not in there it was in the cheaper kit that I was looking at. Only $100 on sale down from $150

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Amazon has them seperately also a glow plug repair kit for $60.....has heli coils to repair damaged threads.  But nothing to repair damaged threads on new glow plug

 

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I just ran a die over the new one to fix the first two threads. Still having a hell of a time installing. A lot of resistance. Ran a tap through and cleaned the threads. Fair bit of shavings. More than I figured there should be for being first time out.

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That doesn't sound good at all.  Those threads are super easy to destroy when removing the plugs.  Only do by hand, very very carefully, super low torque.

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7 hours ago, ACSTECH said:

They are NGK 6600 Y-543J

 

in your picture it looks like its stamped with a Y-545J

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Always ream bores. Always clean threads. New glow plug should screw in freely by hand until it bottoms out, then tighten an additional 30 degrees. 

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Tolsen, whenever I look up issues I am having on the forums if I don’t see your input into the situation I keep looking. I came across a thread with a picture someone uploaded of the reamer made from an old glow plug. I did the same and it worked quite well. First one went in pretty well. Little bit of resistance but it bottomed out and I went 15 nm. Took car outside to warm up so I can do the other two. It was about -20 out last night so only about 5 Celsius in my garage. Will update with my final outcome. Thanks all for the help.

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14 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

 

in your picture it looks like its stamped with a Y-545J

It is a Y-543J. Had to switch to low quality to upload the picture

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It is not the end of the world if you strip these M10 threads in cylinder head. Repair inserts similar to Wurth Timeserts can now be sourced rather cheaply. 

Here is a kit costing only just below £30. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glow-Plug-Cylinder-Head-Metric-Thread-Repair-Restorer-Tap-Kit-M10-x-1-0-/401445501001?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

 

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It’s all good now. Other two out. Threads cleaned and ready to go. Made another reamer. Tried to get friend to weld it together but his welder is in the shed for the winter. Maybe going to JB weld it together or weld it at work tomorrow.

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It’s all done. Went like a dream with the new reamer. Was a hell of a time to start after. Really cranked for 10 seconds or so before she rough idled then smoothed out. The Dorkmobile rides again. Thanks for the help everyone.

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by "reamer" you mean you used a tool to clean out the smooth bore passage where the heating element sits right?...

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Glad to hear she has recovered. 

 

Mark1_Reamer.jpg

 

Above photo shows old glow plug and my diy reamer made from another old glow plug, 5.5 mm drillbit and M6  flange nut. Silver brazed flange nut to end of drillbit. 

 

Filling grease into flutes of drillbit ensures little or no swarf enters combustion chamber. 

 

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