sheepfaced

Water Pump

28 posts in this topic

Hi, when looking up threads I am getting confused, I am in a jam trying to replace my water pump on my 2006 diesel smart but can only get at the 2 e-11 bolts on the bottom side of the pump, I have looked at other threads on club smart but none of the pics look anything like what I have going on, do I have to drop the motor to get at the rest and how the heck do I drop the motor if so, do I need lowering bolts and have to dismantle the whole undercarriage to replace this damn water pump, Please Help

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This is just past midnight in Eastern Ontario where "Uncle Glenn" lives.  If it can wait until later in the morning (Monday) he will most likely be able to answer that for you.  Hang in there. :)  He is the general "go-to" guy when it comes to anything diesel smart related.

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Morning!

Ya, those ''smart'' engineers made it very difficult to change the water pump.

Even with the engine lowered it is difficult!

I use a combination of swivel head extensions to get at those bolts.

When the water pump is removed be sure to clean the face and I use some anaerobic sealant plus the gasket supplied.

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Hi, Thank You so much for the reply, I am a hands on guy but No Mech, back to my frustrating challenge, can the water pump be changed without dismantling most of the undercarriage, is it possible to finish this task with just being on a jack stand rear passenger side, wheel and inner fender off trying to remove water pump bolts from top and bottom.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

12 hours ago, sheepfaced said:

how the heck do I drop the motor if so, do I need lowering bolts

 

bolts arent necessary if you're handy with blocks and jacks

 

personally i preferred to use an atv/motorcycle jack 

 

 

Edited by LooseLugNuts
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Remove X frame. Remove rhs wheel

arch. Place trolley jack under bell housing then remove rhs engine mount. 

You can now lower rhs of engine sufficiently to access all water pump bolts. Of course remove water pump pulley as well. 

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Thank You So much, was getting very frustrated  broke one of the water pump bolts off, no room to even drill it out. It looks to me like the previous owner lock tighted all the water pump bolts in but thanks to you I see a glimmer of light near the tunnel end. Thank You Thank You Thank You

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Hi Everyone and thank you all so much for the help, still battling with this though, It looks to me like one singular large motor mount welded to the big pipe in the middle that wraps around the car from one side to the other, torx on one side and bolt on the other, does this get drove out and is this the motor mount or am I looking at something different

20190311_165800.jpg

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Posted (edited) · Report post

is it a front engine mount?

 

ive never done a water pump but i know if you pull that bolt out you can get enough room to make alternator removal much easier

 

canman mentions it in the alternator thread http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/wiki.html/technical-wikis/450/how-to-replace-the-alternator-r32/

 

 

 

edit...now that i read it again your picture might be part of the dedion tube 

 

 

 

 

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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HI Again, when I look up motor mount on rock auto the only thing that pops up kinda looks like my picture but they call it a DEA/MARMON RIDE CONTROL

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Rear end must be on axle stands when removing X frame. 

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Reason for removing X frame is to get access to right hand side engine mount. 

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Hi, going to knock out the bolt in the dea/marmon ride control and remove the pas side x bar in the morning and pull out that pump if possible, will let you guys know how it turned out. Thanks Again. Mike

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Hi Everyone, UPDATE. Pulled the x bar as described, removed both bars that ran to it, removed front right motor mount  and left that big middle one alone attached to the dedion tube, lowered engine. REMOVED WATER PUMP oh yah, the car would kinda go into limp mode often and not go over 3000rpm, there was a plug barely attached under the cross bar so I secured it tightly. Horrible Horrible job in your carport but could not have done it whith out all your help, THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR KINDNESS AND HELP Mike

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Fit freewheeling pulley on alternator.  Many benefits:  Less belt tension required thereby increasing life of bearings and belt, queter idling engine, faster gear changes up, increased acceleration, improved fuel mileage, nearer to Smart Nirvana as you can anjoy your Smart like Swatch intended.

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Thank You for all your time Mr Tolsen, where can I purchase the free wheeling alternator pulley, can I go to Napa and just ask for a freewheeling alternator pulley for my car or is this something from MB and was also wondering if I could use a torch on the water pump housing to try and get out two broken water pump bolts, after removing the water pump they are poking out about1/4 inch but wont budge and red locktight reminance is around them. Thanks Mike

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There is a thread on the free wheeling clutch hub in the section for modifying etc the 450 CDI   I am also interested in this for mine.  They are hard to locate here and postage from the mother land is STEEP...!    But I may be going over this summer....maybe..just maybe I can bring  one or two back...? I do not know yet?  IF I could find them cheap there and the postage is reasonable i would get one sooner.  Go check out that thread as you will get part numbers etc....I have spent a while searching  without much luck.
Also yes heat releases red loctite but beware of cooking the casting as it may drip into your boot if too much heat is applied!

 

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and in anticipation of the next question

 

air is bled from system by popping out the temperature sensor 

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I usually MIG weld chamfered nuts to snapped off bolts to get them out.  Have 100% success rate so far and no damage done. 

DSC04429.jpg

I chamfer out nuts on my metal working lathe but can also be done with any hand drill.  Go one size up, i.e. for M6 bolt use M8 nut, for M8 use M10 nut and so on.  The heat from welding is normally enough to allow unscrewing snapped off bolts by hand provided you can tolerate the heat.  Aim for the stud when welding to get maximum heat into stud.  I know no better method for extracting snapped off bolts.  I have managed to get out bolts that were snapped off up to one bolt diameter into the metal using this method.

 

As regards free wheeling pulley, you could buy from Smart as the 451 Cdi has it.  Not cheap but an option.

 

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Beware the clip that holds coolant temperature sensor in place is easily lost.  Mine has a nylon tie wrap attached to it.  The eye of some larger tie wraps fit snugly onto the clip.

 

Remember to remove expansion bottle cap when bleeding air out of cooling system.

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16 minutes ago, tolsen said:

 

 

As regards free wheeling pulley, you could buy from Smart as the 451 Cdi has it.

 

 

Not easy for us Canadians. The 451 Cdi was not available here and the dealerships probably don't have it in their listings.

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Hi Everyone, Back together, runs good, Please tell me where I can find the coolant temp sensor to remove and bleed system. Thanks Mike

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