patallen

Front shocks source for 450/2006 ? and turbo hose to the motor

71 posts in this topic

a the complete extreme oposite spectrum my 1974 2002

no electronics at all if only the radio and tachometer.

points ignition. Dellorto's carburetors.

its the most simple and clever car i ever owned. (i owned and restored several 2002's)

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IMG_2244.jpg

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3 hours ago, Willys said:

From what I understand and could be wrong, you must use the correct bulbs that the manufacturer demands not just anything that works...don't ask me why? I just remember seeing someone else saying the same sort of thing. Different loads because of different bulbs  etc etc....

 

that reminds me...i needed some bulbs once and couldnt wait for the cheap ones on the slow chinese boat ...the only place that had the correct ones in stock for smart was the local volkwagen dealer

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Posted (edited) · Report post

guys since i have attention from some of you, i need your advice.

i drove the car few times since i fixed it and i am encountering a loud noise in the rear, almost like if the motor hit the rear of the seats.

it is not consistent and not 100% related to the suspension only. sometimes i hit moderate pothole and no noise i heard, sometime i hit smaller bump but BANG something hits something else.

-springs are ok

-chocks are ok

-rear engine mounts, the two on top, are not "dead" ie not torn apart.

the exhaust doenst hit the shield like it use to be common, i checked that.

so what else can it be ? it is severe and very loud.

 

otherwise i am discovering this litle car and it drives and runs very well so far.

 

thanks.

Edited by patallen

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Run your Smart without rear panels.  Noises and rattle are then easier to diagnose.  Find a suitable test track.  Get an assistant to run or cycle behind your Smart and attempt to indentify location of noise.

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I find that AC/DC played at a suitable volume resolves all problems related to strange Smart Fortwo rattles, bangs and knocks.  Even when new they sounded like a biscuit tin full of rusty bolts being vigorously shaken.

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loool

 

found out today that when i am alone in the car, ie no passenger, it doesnt make the horrible bang noise....

 

to be continued

 

thanks

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Problem solved then.....job done...well done...lol

 

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I have probably a dumb question. My main car is "riding dirty" with not even 1 finger if clearance between the tire and the wheel well, my part car is sitting nice and high.  Can I take the entire strut and spring assembly off and switch them?  It looks like The shows removal through the access flap, is this something I can do in my driveway with a jack?

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5 hours ago, ian122778 said:

I have probably a dumb question. My main car is "riding dirty" with not even 1 finger if clearance between the tire and the wheel well, my part car is sitting nice and high.  Can I take the entire strut and spring assembly off and switch them?  It looks like The shows removal through the access flap, is this something I can do in my driveway with a jack?

Yes, can be done and rather quickly if you are suitably tooled up, not too clumsy and sufficiently smart.

 

Bearing dust caps must come off and it is indeed possible to get these off unharmed.  Access top strut nuts through service flaps at top so no need to remove front panels.

 

 

 

 

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IF you do not have good enough compressor and air gun you will require a clamp to hold the shock strut from spinning when you try and undo the top nut. So it can be done also without air. If that's the case. I made my own clamp to save the strut shaft from vise grip teeth marks.....lol.

Doesn't take that much time to remove front clip to make the job really easy.....if you value your paint or wrap...????

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+1 on what willys said

it really doesnt take a lot of time to remove the whole front clip and headlights to ease access. maybe 5 minutes overall ??

 

it also gives you the opportunity to inspect further (coolant hoses, wiper linkage to say the least) and clean crap in there.

since you have access to the headlight if you do so its a good time to change the bulbs since its freaking diffcult otherwise.

 

i DO have an air impact and it didnt bulge at all, way too seized i had to use an shaft clamp. strut was spinning as hell.

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I'd prefer to remove the front clip.  My car has led headlights, so no worries there.  I see the bolt holds the top of the strut in place, what holds the bottom?  Does it just rest somewhere or is there another bolt in the bottom?  

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there is a C clamp at the top of the spindle assembly held in place by two bolts and you need to remove the bearing dust cap to reveal a long torx bolt that is sometimes reluctant to unscrew easely. spray some wd40 at the bottom of the strut.

 

so... 3 more bolts

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Posted (edited) · Report post

6 hours ago, Willys said:

IF you do not have good enough compressor and air gun~~~

 

 

best tool ive ever bought myself was a milwaukee m18 impact fuel 2767-20...1000ft/lbs in forward and 1400ft/lbs reverse  

 

i have no idea how they managed to get that much power out of something so small but my arthritic hands dont even have a problem using it...

 

 

my air compressor only gets used for inflating now ...and for cleaning things with air nozzle

 

 

ive used vise grips on many strut shafts...its never a problem as long as you get right near the top section that will never have to pass thru a seal

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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My best one is a 1/2” Ingersoll Rand air impact wrench max break torque 600 Nm which is much less than LL’s but adequate for me and almost nil chance of causing damage. 

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My old air gun just got chucked in the parts car to add weight for scrapping it...lol....I bought a new gun that has far superior torque settings so hoping it'll do the trick..if not I have the clamp and massive breaker bar.  It was installed using this so maybe it'll be too tight for new gun....we'll see...lol.

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I got my rattle gun running on old propane. Have the airline from compressor connected to a propane tank. From there a short large bore hose to my ingersoll rand gun. Makes quite a difference to the torque this gun will produce. 

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Air flow and restriction at it's tightest orffice is always a concern......and you simply can't beat poorly designed items for this issue.  Everything included that operates on this principle.   Hard to port and polish such small items.....but I have done just that on shower nozzles etc for better feeling showers...lol.   Yes I can be neurotic at times...lol....and a very bad speller....lol
Size matters, so the old 1" wheel stud impact guns I used to use for transport trucks is king...lol   Mind you heavy and clumbsy.....lol

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