6 posts in this topic

Hello all,

 

I am new to the group and hope I have posted in the right area.  I currently have 2 Smart cars. I currently have a 2006 Cdi and recently purchased a 2005 Cdi. I do not know a whole bunch of history on the car, but it will not exceed 3000rpm. There is currently no light on and no codes stored. I have pulled the EGR valve which is clean, then switched my solenoid from my 2006 CDI. Still no change in power. I had then switched clutch actuators between cars, still no difference. I can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key.  I pulled the rear bumper and functioned the waste gate and inspected the lines and all looks good. Upon further inspection, I realized my exhaust manifold was once welded but has cracked again. I put my ScanGauge on and it makes roughly 3lb of boost.  I realize I will have to replace the exhaust manifold, could this be the issue? Would anyone else have any ideas to check as well. 

manifold.jpg

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Under load you should be getting about 15 or 16 lbs of boost.  You are losing it somewhere.  I don’t know if that crack is large enough to prevent the turbo from making boost.  I doubt it mine has a crack in the same place.  A holed intercooler, or hose is where I would look. I had the large hose on the bottom of the egr come free after I cleaned the egr and had almost no boost before.  That will make the car painfully slow to drive.  Also welcome to the club.   

 

Nigel

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Welcome to the cracked manifold club, find a skilled welder and get it welded back up. Then as Nigel has said, intercooler, it's top hose to engine, as you have checked the other two issues out already....The intercooler can be repaired if you are patient and willing enough with get ready for it JBWeld the quick grey stuff, so it can flow around damaged tubes after extensive cleaning and removal of fins for the first 1/2" just so you can get stainless steel tooth brush and a pick into that area. Also fill the entire lower tray with the JBWeld just so it has plenty to adhere to. I have done two with success, so I know it can be done compared to buying this expensive item.
Then it'll be maybe a visit to someone near to you who owns a STAR for further help.
There is someone close-ish  I think to you....I'm sure if he is he'll chime in.

I found that in some cases limp mode will go away after shutting the car down for a few minutes and starting again, at least it worked for me until I used my STAR on it.

That is if you need to get it to a STAR if you can't trailer it.

Again welcome.

 

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If you go to the top of this page and click on Service Options you will see The Nerdy Mechanic listed in Edmonton.  I realize that it is a good 3 hours from you but I’m sure it is worth the drive.   I’ve been around here a few years and he is one of about 3 or 4 people that always seem to have it right when they post.  

 

Nigel

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Thanks for the reply, I pulled the Intercooler out tonight. Did not have any leaks and very little oil residue inside. Checked the hoses and did not see any holes or abrasions. I believe i will be going the star route now.

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I forgot to say to look for the wear or rub locations on the forward side of the intercooler tubes where the plastic shroud rides against. That shroud needs to have 1/4" shaved off it to make sure it never touches the tubes....sorry.

Also when you are under car  look carefully at that shroud and if broken repair with either sheet metal like duct work material or plastic oil container materials.  Either way whatever you are comfortable working with. Remember to watch that it doesn't hang too far down but also still gets enough air to send a air flow through cooler. Again sorry to forget the rub spot info.

 

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