Sydney

help... orange triangle

28 posts in this topic

i left home this morning,  my smart worked flawlessly all the way to work.  

my stability triangle flashed a few times during the drive  (which is normal for the crappy roads here).

when i pulled in my parking lot at work, shifted into neutral and applied the park brake,  the orange triangle came on and stayed on.

now if i try to back up the car seems to be stuck in a high reverse gear.  it will move but it stalled once and is really jerky.

when i go forward the car does shift in auto and manual,  but it is not smooth at all.

any ideas ???

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Posted (edited) · Report post

59 minutes ago, darren said:

Which icon, exactly? 

the orange triangle (with the !) on the left side of the dash.  i think it is for the stability control.  (above the airbag light)

 

smart triangle.jpg

Edited by Sydney

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try turning off traction control and see if the car now functions normally

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the shifting problem sounds like actuator 

 

the stability control shouldnt matter at parking lot speeds

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the 450 esp is different...you turn it off by jumping 2 pins on the obd2 connector...but i dont remember which pins....its in a thread here somewhere

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59 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

the shifting problem sounds like actuator 

 

the stability control shouldnt matter at parking lot speeds

i was thinking the actuator also.

i started it at lunch,  the triangle was off,  i went for a drive, the car shifted perfectly.  when i was almost back at work, the light came back on.

i stopped, shifted to neutral then into reverse.  can made an awful jerk then quit.   

ill have to try to nurse it back home and see what i can see with the actuator.   

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1 hour ago, LooseLugNuts said:

the 450 esp is different...you turn it off by jumping 2 pins on the obd2 connector...but i dont remember which pins....its in a thread here somewhere

 pins #4 and #7   trip the safe driving mode off...lol.  The beater has a switch now...lol.

Flip the switch and fun times, it must be de-energized by turning key off for 30 or so seconds to reboot the computer to get it back on again....

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Posted (edited) · Report post

my problems seem to be getting worse.   i safely drove the car home  (110 on the highway with no issues).  when i got to my driveway and slowed to a crawl to get in my driveway,  more lights came on,  i barely was able to get it into my garage under its own power.   now i have the ABS, triangle, park brake and check engine light on.    my cheapt code reader says P0702.

 

trouble 2.jpg

trouble 1.jpg

Edited by Sydney

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Actuator I bet or you need to reteach tranny in.

 

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if it was my car id be checking the actuator...and the release bearing lever hole

 

then id check the harness that is known to rub on the side of the intercooler

 

then id probably come here and wait for Tolsen to tell me what the problem actually is :ph34r:

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also id run a forum search for that code and read everything that shows up

 

 

 

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Thanks for the advice. I swapped the actuator with one from my other cars and it seems to have solved the problem.  

The only problem I have now is that I'm running out of actuators. I have 4 cars and only 2 actuators left.

Can these be repaired? 

The actuator seems to be a common failure point. Luckily it can be swapped in 5min on the side of the road if need be.

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I need a STAR, I just can't find a Dell 630 laptop.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

ive never had actuator problems

 

but one car had a very worn out hole in the release bearing arm...i remember fixing it by welding on a large nut then grinding the end spherical to get a few more years use instead of changing the arm

 

i assume the larger end will eventually wear the hole even bigger but maybe something else will kill the car before that happens

 

 

the weird part was the worn out one had less kms on the odo...same with sam problems..the one with more kms looked like brand new but the one with less needed relays installed for both headlights and fuel pump circuits 

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Now that I have the actuator swapped. I adjusted the best I could, as per another forum. (the rod is snugged up to the release fork.

Is there a way to teach the replacement actuator, without having a STAR?

Also I did check the fork and the harness, no sign of rod punch thru and the wires seem ok.  

I do have two cracked rear reluctor rings. But it doesn't seem to bother the cars operation. I have to get new ones asap.

 

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29 minutes ago, Sydney said:

I do have two cracked rear reluctor rings. But it doesn't seem to bother the cars operation. I have to get new ones asap.

 

Isn't this why the stability control light comes on?

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3 hours ago, Sydney said:

I need a STAR, I just can't find a Dell 630 laptop.

That is one of the reasons I went the way I did with my star.....if you manage to find one great, but if it fails, you are after another set of chicken lips all over again....so I went with the program that uses a modern laptop...something to think about..

 

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11 hours ago, smartdriver said:

Isn't this why the stability control light comes on?

i think with the both rings having the same split,  i am tricking the car into thinking everything is ok.

i have been driving this car steadily now for the last couple of months.  and yesterday was the first issue i ever had with the ABS and traction control.

i went out for pizza last night and everything seems fine now.

 

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Maybe the split was shaken a bit more open..?  The rings are easy to change and cheap as chips from England.

 

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29 minutes ago, Willys said:

Maybe the split was shaken a bit more open..?  The rings are easy to change and cheap as chips from England.

 

i will order a set.    (the splits look the exact same,  so i am going with a crapped out actuator as the culprit).

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Have you tried dissecting it yet...it does come apart and may just need a good clean out and regrease.....the cap is a pain to get back as it was, very small rivits etc but it's possible....not that much to them.

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