Sydney

clutch actuator

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So I have 2 defective clutch actuators.

I decided to take one apart and see what goes bad in them. I have see really detailed pics on another forum. I guess if they are properly cleaned and lubed during regular maintenance, the only thing the can go wrong is a broken spring (which seems highly unlikely), a stripped gear due to no maintenance or the electric motor dies (which seems to be my culprit) 

The internal workings of my 2 seem great, it has to be the motor.

My question is, now that I have removed the motors, can I just put the motors back on? The actuators now are in the postion as if you have the clutch depressed on a regular standard.

IMG_20190511_172805.jpg

Edited by Sydney

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Damn, both the two I have taken apart looked far better than those two do.....must be a salty spot you live in...lol.   Unless someone drove through the ocean salt water somewhere  on a semi regular basis...?  I have heard the ocean water is worse than road salt water on vehicles....?  
Why reinstall them without motors?  Hmmm...?

 

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32 minutes ago, Willys said:

Damn, both the two I have taken apart looked far better than those two do.....must be a salty spot you live in...lol.   Unless someone drove through the ocean salt water somewhere  on a semi regular basis...?  I have heard the ocean water is worse than road salt water on vehicles....?  
Why reinstall them without motors?  Hmmm...?

 

The one on the left is in bad shape, the other one looks far better on the inside. I explained myself wrong. I want to put the motor back on the actuator and try it again. I just don't know if I have to do anything special or if the actuator will just resync itself.

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I made it so the rod was all the way in the actuator then set it up with firm pressure against clutch fork arm...not moving it in any way just pressure......it worked fine, but then I retaught it using STAR.

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1 hour ago, Willys said:

I made it so the rod was all the way in the actuator then set it up with firm pressure against clutch fork arm...not moving it in any way just pressure......it worked fine, but then I retaught it using STAR.

So plug the actuator in and turn the key on to retract the rod before I install it? I can't see any other way to do it.

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They seize up on the pivot bearing just like a rear wiper motor. 

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And the fixing lugs corrode and drop off especially over here due to the constantly wet and salted roads. 

 

Water and dirt enters internals through areas where rubber boot seals against actuator rod and body. Clean these areas and keep these seal areas wetted in silicone grease sort out water and dirt entry. 

 

Got proof above works. My clutch actuator is from 2007, now 12 years old. Is painted externally to provide some corrosion protection. Has been cleaned and painted a few times. 

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Mabey I'm confusing myself. Whe the car is in neutral and the ignition is show off, the actuator is in the retracted position? Correct?

So the electric motor is holding spring compressed.  

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Spring inside actuator holds mechanism in its retracted position.  It works very much like a toggle.

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In fully extended position the clutch diaphragm pushes hard on the rod making work easier for clutch actuator motor to drive rod back to retracted position.

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This one is obviously stripped. Can you rebuild these? Or toss it in the trash.

IMG_20190512_193909.jpg

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I would be searching in scrap yards for CDI smarts to liberate these small items from.....I bet most won't be stripped like that one.....and I'm sure i got mine apart further but it has been a while now...lol.

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Housing is intact so can be reused.  A big problem over here is the mounting lugs drop off leaving actuator dangling from its lead and the poor owner asking me why his Smart does not run.  Have seen that many times now.

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