clutch actuator

[Sydney 218]

So I have 2 defective clutch actuators.

I decided to take one apart and see what goes bad in them. I have see really detailed pics on another forum. I guess if they are properly cleaned and lubed during regular maintenance, the only thing the can go wrong is a broken spring (which seems highly unlikely), a stripped gear due to no maintenance or the electric motor dies (which seems to be my culprit) 

The internal workings of my 2 seem great, it has to be the motor.

My question is, now that I have removed the motors, can I just put the motors back on? The actuators now are in the postion as if you have the clutch depressed on a regular standard.

Edited May 11, 2019 by Sydney

[Willys 747]

Damn, both the two I have taken apart looked far better than those two do.....must be a salty spot you live in...lol.   Unless someone drove through the ocean salt water somewhere  on a semi regular basis...?  I have heard the ocean water is worse than road salt water on vehicles....?  
Why reinstall them without motors?  Hmmm...?

 

[Sydney 218]

32 minutes ago, Willys said:

Damn, both the two I have taken apart looked far better than those two do.....must be a salty spot you live in...lol.   Unless someone drove through the ocean salt water somewhere  on a semi regular basis...?  I have heard the ocean water is worse than road salt water on vehicles....?  
Why reinstall them without motors?  Hmmm...?

 

The one on the left is in bad shape, the other one looks far better on the inside. I explained myself wrong. I want to put the motor back on the actuator and try it again. I just don't know if I have to do anything special or if the actuator will just resync itself.

[Willys 747]

I made it so the rod was all the way in the actuator then set it up with firm pressure against clutch fork arm...not moving it in any way just pressure......it worked fine, but then I retaught it using STAR.

[Sydney 218]

1 hour ago, Willys said:

I made it so the rod was all the way in the actuator then set it up with firm pressure against clutch fork arm...not moving it in any way just pressure......it worked fine, but then I retaught it using STAR.

So plug the actuator in and turn the key on to retract the rod before I install it? I can't see any other way to do it.

[tolsen 630]

They seize up on the pivot bearing just like a rear wiper motor. 

[tolsen 630]

And the fixing lugs corrode and drop off especially over here due to the constantly wet and salted roads. 

 

Water and dirt enters internals through areas where rubber boot seals against actuator rod and body. Clean these areas and keep these seal areas wetted in silicone grease sort out water and dirt entry. 

 

Got proof above works. My clutch actuator is from 2007, now 12 years old. Is painted externally to provide some corrosion protection. Has been cleaned and painted a few times. 

[Sydney 218]

Mabey I'm confusing myself. Whe the car is in neutral and the ignition is show off, the actuator is in the retracted position? Correct?

So the electric motor is holding spring compressed.  

[tolsen 630]

Spring inside actuator holds mechanism in its retracted position.  It works very much like a toggle.

[tolsen 630]

In fully extended position the clutch diaphragm pushes hard on the rod making work easier for clutch actuator motor to drive rod back to retracted position.

[Sydney 218]

This one is obviously stripped. Can you rebuild these? Or toss it in the trash.

[Willys 747]

I would be searching in scrap yards for CDI smarts to liberate these small items from.....I bet most won't be stripped like that one.....and I'm sure i got mine apart further but it has been a while now...lol.

[tolsen 630]

Housing is intact so can be reused.  A big problem over here is the mounting lugs drop off leaving actuator dangling from its lead and the poor owner asking me why his Smart does not run.  Have seen that many times now.

[Tedder 6]

Hey. I did it! After spending most of the last two days reading up on the actuator, I took mine off today. The advice from Dr. Glenn and Tolsen was particularly helpful. I soaked it w WD40, gave the bolts a few raps w a hammer and heated them w propane torch. I was VERY relieved when they let go, thanks be to God (I prayed for that). The plunger rod was rusted, even into the housing. The unit was completely dry. Lots of corrosion around the opening (white metal dust), but the rubber boot was in good shape. I treated the boot w Armourall, cleaned off the rust, shook out the junk, stuffed a few globs of cup grease down inside, put globs of silicone grease in the opening, painted the rod and seat for the boot, sealed the boot w silicone sealer, lubed the clutch fork and end of actuator and put it back on. The fork is starting to wear thru, so that will come next.  I just returned from a 5K km trip to Indiana and Minnesota. Coming from Wisconsin to the UP I noticed a familiar whine. A local mechanic (good guy) has put three LF wheel bearings in the thing in the last 2 years. 8K km on this one (replaced free under warranty). 20K km on the last one. 10K km on the one before that (installed June 2017). I stopped at the Kingston MB dealer and bought a front wheel bearing ($200+), and we'll see if it lasts better than the junk from China. And while I was cruising thru Kingston, I got the 3 bars of death 3 times. Made it home to Brockville, and today I did the deed. Thanks guys, for being there, and for sharing tips, etc. Next I'll have my mechanic reteach the actuator and replace the bearing. I took it for a few spins around town, and she shifts nice and smooth.

[LooseLugNuts 557]

theres a good thread about wheel bearings somewhere...it might be worth looking into

 

at bare minimum you need to add grease to the new ones before install...they dont seem to pack them well 

[tolsen 630]

52 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

theres a good thread about wheel bearings somewhere...it might be worth looking into

 

at bare minimum you need to add grease to the new ones before install...they dont seem to pack them well 

There are several threads about unSmart wheel bearings. Here are two:

 

Front bearings 

Rear bearings 

Both mods described in above posts were done more  than ten years ago and I have not yet changed any of those bearings.  No unbearable bearing noise and my Smart has clocked 250,000 km.  Proof these mods work. 

[MikeT 744]

My first one had 250,000 km on original bearings....

[tolsen 630]

The climate is the cause for their early demise. 

Road salt, temperature fluctuations below and above freezing point, condensation, grit etc.

Move to a dry and warm land and your wheel bearings may outlast you.  

 

My solution avoids costly relocation and ensures bearing seal is wettet in grease and wiped clean whenever I inject grease or oil. Got a poor seal on one front bearing where over greasing wets brake disk. Still no problem after nine years in service. 

Replaced both front brake discs a few weeks ago after about nine years in service.  Only 0.5 mm under size but brakes were still fine. 

These discs had been off the car a few times to remove built up rust resembling Saturn’s rings. 

[Nigel 287]

Tedder 

Talk to Glenn.  He may still have access to a cap that goes on the end of the actuator that engages more surface on the fork.  That will extend the life of the fork.  You don’t want to pull the transmission just to get at the fork unless necessary.   

 

Nigel

[Willys 747]

31 minutes ago, Nigel said:

Tedder 

Talk to Glenn.  He may still have access to a cap that goes on the end of the actuator that engages more surface on the fork.  That will extend the life of the fork.  You don’t want to pull the transmission just to get at the fork unless necessary.   

 

Nigel

I agree, or find someone who can weld a wider end onto your actuator....resulting in same result.

 

[LooseLugNuts 557]

i used a nut ..welded it with just a small bit protruding then rounded it off with a hand grinder to fit the trans hole better...i figured the protruding bit was about the size of what would normally fit in the fork socket and would help keep it center

 

it worked fine and i havent heard of any problems with it from the new owners

 

 

if you do weld something i suggest giving it a decent tack weld first and try it before welding it up good...on my first try i didnt like the amount of adjustment space i had on the mounting screws so i re-welded it to a better spot

[Tedder 6]

Hey again. A new development... After I cleaned up the actuator I've been tooling around town and she was purring like a kitten with nice smooth shifts (better than I've ever felt). There was a bit of play between the actuator and the fork when I tore into it, and I figure snugging it up to the fork was very helpful. Then this afternoon, just about 24 hrs after I put it back together, I went to start it up, and it wouldn't fire. Turned over fine, but no go. I called my mechanic friend and he says it's probably the module saying "The tranny and actuator have not been retaught. And so I quit until it's done." He will come and put his device on it Monday. He must be right, as this is the first time she has failed to fire, even in cold winter. Does that sound right for the rest of you?

Edited May 25, 2019 by Tedder

[smart142 605]

First time I've heard that. I don't think they are connected.

If its turning over and not starting I would check to see if its getting fuel. Easy to do. Disconnect the line to the common rail with a 14mm wrench. Turn on ignition and see if fuel is being pumped.

[Nigel 287]

When mine started acting up and cranking and not starting I wiggled the fuse box and then tried again.  For me that worked and I went home and installed a fuel pump relay and it has been fine for two years.  Do a search on the forum for fuel pump and head light relays and you will probably find your problem and how to fix it. 

 

Nigel 

[Tedder 6]

Glenn, That seems to be the problem. No fuel came out. What next? Likely the pump or the filter, or electrical? I don't have an OBD, so to read codes I'll have to get it from my mechanic on Monday.