Hobbitz

05 CDI very slow

41 posts in this topic

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1 hour ago, Hobbitz said:

A p0003 code popped up now, saying about low fuel ctr or something, I had a gut feeling something is happning with fuel, anyone had this code before and find the issue?

if you put P0003 in the search bar on the top right of the page,  it should direct you to every post that ever had P0003 attached to it.

i find the search bar help alot.  (i just looked,  there is lots of info for you)

Edited by Sydney
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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 28/09/2019 at 5:11 AM, tolsen said:

9 PSI @ 3000 RPM.  Is that with no load and car stationary?

 

Does engine start easily and is is idle even?

 

Look for leaks between turbo and inlet manifold.  Good idle and easy start would rule out any fuel or injector issue.  No need to concern yourself with MAP unless someone in the past has loaded a really bad MAP.

 

What is the history of htis Smart?  When did the problem first materialise and what were the circustances?

 

One more thing to rule out:  Confirm waste gate is not stuck open.  Move waste gate arm with a spanner and confirm it moves freely.

As you may know tolsen, I've now checked the intercooler, it's good, replaced the injectors, still same, revs up slow, 9 psi boost, I have a new fuel rail pressure sensor gunna try tomorrow, I wonder if I should, start stop car 3 times or is that an old wives tail, or maybe the OEM engine mapping has gone wrong (doubt that though) what about any other sensors, or fuel filter blocked, could something as simple as that cause low boost? any other ideas mate?

Edited by Hobbitz
Another few words added

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OK, I'll spit ball once again as for the solution seeing as all other haven't worked...lol
High pressure fuel pump....?  It's easy to rebuild and easier to peer into for damaged "O" rings....IF you have gone after all the other stuff, I'd be after this....?  You also said new injectors? Or new to you injectors?  Ouch...if new!  Can I ask if you checked spray patterns from new injectors?   Maybe they are plugged up and giving just enough fuel to do what it's doing but not enough to get it going..?  As you know in gasoline engines a poor spark or coil pck will give the same symtoms  sort of and seeing as we don't need that spark quality maybe it's a good fuel spray issue? What if you had a a bad rusty batch of fuel or contaminated somehow.....I used to be a bad kid......nuff said.....towards principle's vehicles in high school.....maybe it happened to your fuel supply? And now has clogged a few injectors just enough?   What about every ground pins anywhere near the engine, SAM or speedo or silver box by battery, I never remember the name of that....augh...!  Have you had that little bugger apart yet also? 
Cylinder compression...? Stuck ring..?  Got a bore scope..? Canadian tire just had one on sale......
Like I said, you seem to have checked all the other boxes, so maybe time to check the rest .....again...?   Sorry.    At this point it's almost easier to trailer it to Glenn and hook his STAR up to it or someone else's to have a peek internally...?

 

Hmmm....isn't a turbo and boost all just mechanical without a way to discharge pressure..? I do not know just asking? IF that thing spins up fine and there's no leaks then it has to be what? Intake air supply into turbo...? Anything that could restrict it? 

OK, I'm done spit ball'in for now...lol....maybe this jogs someone's thought pattern to find the actual answer...?

 

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You have put a pair of channel lock pliers on the arm of the wastegate and cycled it back and forth right?  A wastegate stuck part open will bleed off the pressure.  Also check the hose on the bottom of the egr it clips in and if not fully inserted will also cause a no boost or low boost connection.  I suspect a boost leak somewhere as it doesn’t take a lot of fuel to get this little turbo up to pressure.  I believe the hose out of the top of the egr to the intake is susceptible to chafing and rub through (think I read it here somewhere).

 

Nigel

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5 hours ago, Nigel said:

You have put a pair of channel lock pliers on the arm of the wastegate and cycled it back and forth right?  A wastegate stuck part open will bleed off the pressure.  Also check the hose on the bottom of the egr it clips in and if not fully inserted will also cause a no boost or low boost connection.  I suspect a boost leak somewhere as it doesn’t take a lot of fuel to get this little turbo up to pressure.  I believe the hose out of the top of the egr to the intake is susceptible to chafing and rub through (think I read it here somewhere).

 

Nigel

So now after installing a new fuel rail pressure sensor, I'm getting 14 psi at 4000 psi, it's like 100 % better and drivable, but still slow off the mark ( not like she used to be) seems like the turbo isn't spooling up until way late, gunna have to look for some smaller leaks, I'll have to check if the wastegate is opening early, or not sealing somehow, I have plenty of preload on it, could the EGR valve cause low boost somehow, it's clean, I have a straight through exaust with no cat,? Running no air filter just for testing..a pair of my wife's stockings lol for now..thx

On 27/09/2019 at 10:33 PM, LooseLugNuts said:

 

 

so you didnt drive it and adjust the actuator while observing map readings after you first installed it

The actuator arm is factory set, and still has the thread paint on each lock nut, as for observing map readings I don't have equipment for that, I have an obd2 reader can I use that?

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OK, so I'll be the killjoy here....what if you put the factory exhaust back on and a good new air cleaner and give it a go.....I expect nothing will change BUT, maybe it might?    Seems you have tried everything else no..?
On a side not, no need to beat it to 4000 rpms imho, if it can't pull those PSI numbers down low something else is wrong ...Hmmm..?  You will find beating these engines won't get you much more I'm afraid.....I come from an age where beating the day lights out of an engine was the way to go...but this little can opener...not so much IMHO....I just watch my MPGs now and relax.....I have another vehicle if I want power and noise...lol.    But after saying this i also have a straight through-ish can on a manifold also sitting under my bench...lol.  Maybe one day...?  On the beater maybe...lol.  He biggest thing I've done is put a switch in the dash to turn off the safety crap ready for the snow this year.....lol...that should be exciting enough...lol.    
IF I were to chase shockingly fast smarts, I'd be after a bike engine and not worry about messing with this fuel efficient slug of a power plant....just me...lol

I hope you find the gremlin soon, I'm very curious.

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On 05/10/2019 at 6:52 PM, Willys said:

OK, so I'll be the killjoy here....what if you put the factory exhaust back on and a good new air cleaner and give it a go.....I expect nothing will change BUT, maybe it might?    Seems you have tried everything else no..?
On a side not, no need to beat it to 4000 rpms imho, if it can't pull those PSI numbers down low something else is wrong ...Hmmm..?  You will find beating these engines won't get you much more I'm afraid.....I come from an age where beating the day lights out of an engine was the way to go...but this little can opener...not so much IMHO....I just watch my MPGs now and relax.....I have another vehicle if I want power and noise...lol.    But after saying this i also have a straight through-ish can on a manifold also sitting under my bench...lol.  Maybe one day...?  On the beater maybe...lol.  He biggest thing I've done is put a switch in the dash to turn off the safety crap ready for the snow this year.....lol...that should be exciting enough...lol.    
IF I were to chase shockingly fast smarts, I'd be after a bike engine and not worry about messing with this fuel efficient slug of a power plant....just me...lol

I hope you find the gremlin soon, I'm very curious.

Problem solved, it was the injectors, buggered them up first time around by using a wire wheel to clean them, basically destroying the atomiser holes, lesson learned, thx for all the help, and I resoldered the Sam low beam relay yayyyyy, 2 years and 200 hrs labor lol,

On 05/10/2019 at 6:52 PM, Willys said:

OK, so I'll be the killjoy here....what if you put the factory exhaust back on and a good new air cleaner and give it a go.....I expect nothing will change BUT, maybe it might?    Seems you have tried everything else no..?
On a side not, no need to beat it to 4000 rpms imho, if it can't pull those PSI numbers down low something else is wrong ...Hmmm..?  You will find beating these engines won't get you much more I'm afraid.....I come from an age where beating the day lights out of an engine was the way to go...but this little can opener...not so much IMHO....I just watch my MPGs now and relax.....I have another vehicle if I want power and noise...lol.    But after saying this i also have a straight through-ish can on a manifold also sitting under my bench...lol.  Maybe one day...?  On the beater maybe...lol.  He biggest thing I've done is put a switch in the dash to turn off the safety crap ready for the snow this year.....lol...that should be exciting enough...lol.    
IF I were to chase shockingly fast smarts, I'd be after a bike engine and not worry about messing with this fuel efficient slug of a power plant....just me...lol

I hope you find the gremlin soon, I'm very curious.

On 27/09/2019 at 10:33 PM, LooseLugNuts said:

 

 

so you didnt drive it and adjust the actuator while observing map readings after you first installed it

The actuator arm is factory set, and still has the thread paint on each lock nut, as for observing map readings I don't have equipment for that, I have an obd2 reader can I use that?

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On 10/5/2019 at 3:00 PM, Hobbitz said:

So now after installing a new fuel rail pressure sensor, I'm getting 14 psi at 4000 psi, it's like 100 % better and drivable, but still slow off the mark ( not like she used to be) seems like the turbo isn't spooling up until way late, gunna have to look for some smaller leaks, I'll have to check if the wastegate is opening early, or not sealing somehow, I have plenty of preload on it, could the EGR valve cause low boost somehow, it's clean, I have a straight through exaust with no cat,? Running no air filter just for testing..a pair of my wife's stockings lol for now..thx

The actuator arm is factory set, and still has the thread paint on each lock nut, as for observing map readings I don't have equipment for that, I have an obd2 reader can I use that?

Why would changing the fuel rail sensor give you more psi? From 9 to 14psi?

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49 minutes ago, Hobbitz said:

Problem solved, it was the injectors, buggered them up first time around by using a wire wheel to clean them, basically destroying the atomiser holes, lesson learned, thx for all the help, and I resoldered the Sam low beam relay yayyyyy, 2 years and 200 hrs labor lol,

 

The actuator arm is factory set, and still has the thread paint on each lock nut, as for observing map readings I don't have equipment for that, I have an obd2 reader can I use that?

From reading this entire post I'm assuming the problem solved was that you buggered up the fuel injectors by trying to clean them with a wire wheel. I assume you replaced the damaged injectors to solve that problem. Is that correct?

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I knew those nozzles were the issue in one way or the other as the difference they made when I replaced mine was night and day....and when i shot spry through them you could see the damaged or plugged up holes. I was told that extremely high pressure fluids can eat away at metals and that is half the problem with nozzles The  pressure changes the spray pattern of the nozzle and weakens the firing capability of engine etc.  
Very glad you finally found it out.....did you replace the entire injectors or just the nozzles?  $400 ish I think for all 3 nozzles and far more if you went with the entire injectors.  AUGH....

 

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i dont know why you keep quoting post number nine but i replied way back in post sixteen

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19 hours ago, Specter said:

Why would changing the fuel rail sensor give you more psi? From 9 to 14psi?

Turned out I changed 1 injector and the fuel rail sensor at the same time, and the non damaged injector made a vast improvement

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I'm sorry, I don't understand how to use this website, do I just reply to topic, ?????

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17 hours ago, Willys said:

I knew those nozzles were the issue in one way or the other as the difference they made when I replaced mine was night and day....and when i shot spry through them you could see the damaged or plugged up holes. I was told that extremely high pressure fluids can eat away at metals and that is half the problem with nozzles The  pressure changes the spray pattern of the nozzle and weakens the firing capability of engine etc.  
Very glad you finally found it out.....did you replace the entire injectors or just the nozzles?  $400 ish I think for all 3 nozzles and far more if you went with the entire injectors.  AUGH....

 

I was lucky I found a guy in Toronto who had a car with 130000 on it, he gave me turbo manafold assembly, Sam box, rail sensor and 2 injectors for $360, we could only get 2 injectors out the others totally stuck, so she's still got 1 bad injector in it but maybe I can get 1 new nozzle, I didn't know they came seperate 😃

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5 hours ago, Hobbitz said:

I'm sorry, I don't understand how to use this website, do I just reply to topic, ?????

 

If you are just making a statement, yes.  At the bottom of the page, just click on the "Reply to this topic" bar and start typing.  If you are quoting someone, Click on the "quote" button at the bottom of the piece that you want to quote.

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..or highlight just the part you want and a quote button will pop up (possibly different if not using chrome browser or variants) 

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