tolsen

Diesel Injector Nozzle Replacement

76 posts in this topic

Have not installed these yet, but did remove the old injectors (2006 CDI with 160K). I removed the tips, checked the pattern by removing the needle and spraying WD-40 through them. They all had a few (partly clogged) holes. I did not disassemble the injectors further. I cleaned the tips and injector bodies in my Branson ultrasonic cleaner with 60 C water and a few drops of Dawn dish soap. I suspended the injector bodies by placing a piece of wood with an injector sized hole in it over the tank so the injector solenoids were not submerged. Ran them for 45 minutes each, tested them with WD-40, got 5 good jets out of each tip and reassembled them. Since I did not know the torque needed I had marked the body and nut with a small punch. Put them back in with new fire rings and torqued them to spec.

 

The car definitely runs better and has more pep accelerating. It is too early to tell if the mileage has improved, but my Scangauge seems to suggest it has.

 

The new ones will go in once I have rebuilt the HPFP.

 

One tip: make sure you double check all the connections for the return lines are tight; it makes a mess if they are not.....:rolleyes:

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12 hours ago, Smart42 said:

One tip: make sure you double check all the connections for the return lines are tight; it makes a mess if they are not.....:rolleyes:

Shhhhhh........that's a secret....lol.

If you take a look at the holes in the old nozzles you will see the deformities and how the spray will slightly be effected by such when it's operational. I didn't know that the high pressure liquid would cause so much wear until I saw it under magnification.
Once I saw the damage is when I decided not to bother with the old ones and simply went after new nozzles.
That's for the link on the nozzles. I may just check a set out .

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Thanks for doing the legwork to find genuine Bosch nozzles.

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China against Turkey. Who will be the winner?

 

China is in the lead based on price. 

 

I bet China will be a clear winner. China made it too the Moon. Germany and Turkey have not whilst I have nearly made the distance in my wee Smart on original nozzles although now emitting smoke clouds when overtaking. 

 

 

 

 

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If the Chinese ones aren't Bosch or another well known brand, I suspect they'll be very much inferior pattern parts.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, tolsen said:

China is in the lead based on price. 

 

 

 

 

 

Spoken like a true Scot ;)

Edited by Smart42
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9 hours ago, Smart42 said:

Spoken like a true Scot ;)

LMFAO.....lol.....

 

 

I'll also let you know....a set is on it's way.....they look identical to the ones I purchased last year sometime.   Thanks.

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Did you offset the wear with calibrated washers?
If not ,this may be the reason why he sometimes smokes.
The contact copper washers ( injector - cylinder head ) are thermally softened. It is good to replace it but with the same caliber. There are 3 calibers for these washes!

Edited by tyc

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3 hours ago, tyc said:

The contact copper washers ( injector - cylinder head ) are thermally softened. It is good to replace it but with the same caliber. There are 3 calibers for these washes!

This is the first I'm hearing of this, strange when I purchase these sealing washers from the dealership they don't ever ask what thickness...Hmmmm....?    Who's telling you this...?   Hmmmm.....?      lol

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Hmmmmmm.......my set of nozzles must be on the slow ship from china as they still haven't shown up yet......Hmmmmm.....????????

Edited by Willys

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4 hours ago, tyc said:

Did you offset the wear with calibrated washers?
If not ,this may be the reason why he sometimes smokes.
The contact copper washers ( injector - cylinder head ) are thermally softened. It is good to replace it but with the same caliber. There are 3 calibers for these washes!

Which calibrated washers are you talking about. Kindly advise.

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7 minutes ago, tolsen said:

Which calibrated washers are you talking about. Kindly advise.

I think he's meaning the copper soft sealing washers by the way I'm reading his post.....lol.....that is why I am shocked also....lol.
I know there are measured spacers inside that a fully operational shop should measure when rebuilding injectors, but we are back yard Smart fix er uppers....lol...we don't need to measure stinking spacers...lol.

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I have a bag full of copper fire washers.  Bag is marked 27D145.  Washer size is 15x7/7.7x1.5 mm.  Similar to the washers in the Smart and at least same thickness.  If they drop into the holes in cylinder head and hole through them allows nozzle to slip through, I would assume that is good enough.

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I bought all the dealership had in stock last time i went, I figure, how many time am I going to remove injectors any way.....they are the cheapest thing available at the dealership and the look I get from the guy's face is worth every penny they cost...lol.

The only issue I can even think of is that they must be of a certain thickness to not allow injector to drop too far inside bore as to allow contact with piston...?  Other than that a solid seal is all required....correct..?

 

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I think you are right there.  Most of the time when refitting injectors I have simply annealed the old copper seal and reused.  Always smart to soap test to confirm seal holds.

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The calibrated washes inside the injector. The compensation of distances is done with the calibrated washes / rounds.
Copper washers are on the outside of the injector, between the injector and the cylinder head. They have a specific shape and controlled fatigue - they are used to keep the distance between the tip of the injector and the piston, when changing the cylinder head / rectifying the cylinder head. This distance is critical for the correct burning of the fuel. The copper seals for sealing have a slightly curved shape and again the inner hole is spaced (for expansion?)

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 04.02.2020 at 7:26 PM, tolsen said:

I think you are right there.  Most of the time when refitting injectors I have simply annealed the old copper seal and reused.  Always smart to soap test to confirm seal holds.

If the same injector is mounted, it is sufficient to soften the original washers.
The softening of the copper is done inversely as in steel. That is, they burn in the fire (until red) and are thrown into a glass of water.

Edited by tyc

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OK, just to let you know guys and gals if we have any reading..lol....
I just received my new nozzles also. They are identical to the ones I bought earlier for much more. So, imho if you need nozzles or are having fueling issues I strongly recommend this link that is being discussed above to buy these nozzles from. Good price and the correct nozzles.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPV9J8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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So finally had time, removed my injector pump and rebuilt it. Pain in the neck to get the thing out; remove rear bumper and crash bar, intercooler fan, air intake hose to turbo, EGR assembly and its bracket before you have enough room to get the pump out. The pump need a fair amount of gentle persuasion to come out.

Disassembled the pump and ran all parts through my ultrasonic cleaner (60C water with a dash of Dawn) twice; first to get all the gross stuff off, then again through a clean bath to remove any remaining bits. Had watched a Youtube video showing how to do it. Part that was missing is that when you remove the driveshaft there is a little spring loaded valve thingy located in one of the low pressure fuel lines. If you look closely in the holes for the 2 fuel lines you will see one has a small circlip down the hole. If I had to do it again I would remove this before lifting the drive shaft out.

The rebuild is straight forward. Getting the pump back in place was not easy; you need to align the slotted key with its counterpart in the camshaft and press the whole show in perfectly straight so it does not jam. A few encouraging taps with a rubber mallet helped a lot. Per Tolsen I cycled the ignition to flush the pump with filtered diesel from the tank in order to remove any particles and reconnected the high pressure fuel line.

 

Next part was changing the nozzles. The injectors came out fine, unfortunately I managed to crack the nut holding the tip on a particularly stubborn injector. At first I thought I just rounded of the flats a bit and put the injectors back. The engine started no problems with no leaks except smoke coming from the first injector. After I took it out and subjected it to a closer inspection I could see the crack....

 

So, does anybody have a failed injector she/he is willing to part with for a reasonable fee? All I really need is the nut; my injector is fine and the tip is brand new....

20200311_212019.jpg

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7 hours ago, Smart42 said:

So finally had time, removed my injector pump and rebuilt it. Pain in the neck to get the thing out; remove rear bumper and crash bar, intercooler fan, air intake hose to turbo, EGR assembly and its bracket before you have enough room to get the pump out. The pump need a fair amount of gentle persuasion to come out.

Disassembled the pump and ran all parts through my ultrasonic cleaner (60C water with a dash of Dawn) twice; first to get all the gross stuff off, then again through a clean bath to remove any remaining bits. Had watched a Youtube video showing how to do it. Part that was missing is that when you remove the driveshaft there is a little spring loaded valve thingy located in one of the low pressure fuel lines. If you look closely in the holes for the 2 fuel lines you will see one has a small circlip down the hole. If I had to do it again I would remove this before lifting the drive shaft out.

The rebuild is straight forward. Getting the pump back in place was not easy; you need to align the slotted key with its counterpart in the camshaft and press the whole show in perfectly straight so it does not jam. A few encouraging taps with a rubber mallet helped a lot. Per Tolsen I cycled the ignition to flush the pump with filtered diesel from the tank in order to remove any particles and reconnected the high pressure fuel line.

 

Next part was changing the nozzles. The injectors came out fine, unfortunately I managed to crack the nut holding the tip on a particularly stubborn injector. At first I thought I just rounded of the flats a bit and put the injectors back. The engine started no problems with no leaks except smoke coming from the first injector. After I took it out and subjected it to a closer inspection I could see the crack....

 

So, does anybody have a failed injector she/he is willing to part with for a reasonable fee? All I really need is the nut; my injector is fine and the tip is brand new....

20200311_212019.jpg

 

Let me check I have a couple of old injectors and can let you have a cap....I just need to find them in my mountain of parts scattered all over my work area.....I'll hopefully find them today,  I'm sick with broncular phnemonia at the moment so I'm slow at the moment.  PM me and I'll let you know.

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

So Willys has come to the rescue and kindly offered to ship me a spare nut for which I am grateful. Great to have members helping each other out.

For those interested: I also found a detailed drawing plus part numbers for the individual injector parts. The nozzle nut is #  F00VC14012

 

Exploded view and part # for Bosch 45510023 fuel injector

 

Nut is available on AliExpress for $2.67 CAD a piece.

 

Nozzle retaining nut

Edited by Smart42

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TYC mentioned internal shims; in the diagram I posted above they are listed as part #  F 00Z C99 174 and  F 00Z C99 170 . How do you determine what shim size is appropriate?

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