Dead battery and rusty hatch keyhole

[autovel 5]

New year and new troubles. Initially the car did not respond to the remote (no nine flashes or whatsoever) and proceeded to change the key fob battery with a fresh new one.

 

At that time the dash clock was still perfectly on time so I did not suspect the battery would be dead but that seems to be the case now as the clock seem to be dead as well.

 

To make things even more interesting the rear hatch keyhole seems to be stuck giving no other way to get into the car to fix the problem.

 

I only have one single key and I wonder if the problem may be with the key itself

[LooseLugNuts 557]

sounds like a job for a coat hanger 

 

or try penetrating oil and careful key wiggling in the lock 

[LooseLugNuts 557]

if youre handy i suppose you could try to lift the car enough (use jack stands) and get underneath to find some way of accessing the battery cable that goes to the starter...dont use it for boosting...use it to try and send a charge into the battery 

[tolsen 630]

I lube my lock cylinders regularly with a graphite containing penetrant oil. Also important to exercise your lock cylinders as otherwise they will seize up regardless how much penetrant oil you spay into their inner workings. 

 

Easiest way to connect battery charger or jump lead to your locked Smart is by dropping its underbelly protection and screw a wood screw into positive cable from battery to starter. Hole through cable outer sheath must be sealed before taking car back into service. 

Cable leaves battery well on rear inboard side. Will be obvious when you poke your head under your Smart. 

 

 

 

 

[tolsen 630]

Another way to charge battery in a locked Smart 450 diesel is by connecting to the thickest wire in forward glow plug controller plug. For access remove right rear road wheel and inner wheel arch lining. 

[autovel 5]

Well I nearly emptied half a can of PB Blast in the lock, till I saw some of stuff dripping from bottom of rear panel....I bet the car will smell for years to come

 

How can one access the cable to charge the battery? Is it on the rear passenger side?

[Leadwing 565]

Not too sure how mechanically  inclined you are so I'll keep it simple.

 

I have never tried this, but just thinking "old school".   Have you tried a coat hanger between the window and the door seal to pull back on the handle from inside the passenger side door??  If this is successful, once the door is open, pull back the carpeting and remove the foam.  Battery is right there.

[autovel 5]

That was exactly what I was planning to do, just saw a video on youtube showing how to do it.  Do I need to remove the outer seal? Not sure there is enough space to force the coat hanger through without forcing the glass 

[Willys 747]

Just now, autovel said:

That was exactly what I was planning to do, just saw a video on youtube showing how to do it.  Do I need to remove the outer seal? Not sure there is enough space to force the coat hanger through without forcing the glass 

Hmmmmm.......?
I would carefully test it gently and see......if you force that door or glass too much it'll either leak and whistle for the life of the car or worse, break the glass.......priced up glass  yet?

Freezing cold temps isn't a good time to force shatterable materials like glass....imho.

Go easy and test it.....OR, pay a professional to do it for you hoping they have insurance so if they damage it they will repair it.
The rear hatch is $450 for a used piece at a junker......when I found that out I now treat my rear glass as if it's going to break at any moment! 

Just a thought, why can't you pop off the outer plastic and find a way in from there?   Just thinking out loud, don't know if it's possible...? And once again done in warm location and maybe with hot water running on it to stop any shattering from happening?  People say it's done easily if you get it right?   I don't know...is it possible....? Anyone?

[tolsen 630]

Evilution has a guide explaining how to get inside a 450 without key. 

[autovel 5]

Just made a tool with a coat hanger hook (plastic one) and two windows blinds tilt rods taped together. I used as wedges some kitchen tools and managed to squeeze easily the stupid thing between the rubber seal and the glass.

 

Hook got on the door handle and pulled as hard as I could, the hook broke in half and door didn't open.  The weirdly shaped handle was moving but I guess not enough.

 

Was pulling from the rear of glass just next to the other door handle but nothing...will make a stiffer hook and try again.

 

What should I do with the battery? Recharge it or jump start the car or just bin it?

[LooseLugNuts 557]

charge it and test it

 

if it fails sell it for scrap...batteries were fetching about $10 each last time i brought a load in

[Leadwing 565]

59 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

if it fails sell it for scrap...batteries were fetching about $10 each last time i brought a load in

 

Some stores (like Cdn. Tire) will give you a discount of $10 to $20 if you turn in your old battery when buying a new one.

[LooseLugNuts 557]

i only buy from costco...best warranty around

 

they never ask for the old one

[tolsen 630]

I only use scrap batteries collected for free from local garages.  If one fails or turns out no good I just go back and get another one.

[autovel 5]

5 hours ago, tolsen said:

I only use scrap batteries collected for free from local garages.  If one fails or turns out no good I just go back and get another one.

Recycling at its finest: reusing!

 

Managed to get the doors open, realised that when the car is locked the door handles oppose much resistance, especially when you are trying to push the handle with a katana sword replica and a spoon handle taped on its point in freezing cold.

 

Also noticed that the passenger side upholstery was slightly moist (which explains the fogging problem so common with this car) with clear signs of rust, but can't pinpoint any source of a leak. Battery dead for good, will get a 12V charger and plug it in.

 

 

[Willys 747]

IMHO, while you are at this location as it's shown, I'd be going after every ground point and remove, file or brush clean then coat in dilectric grease to prevent more rusting on grounding pins.....they may look great but after removing you will see corrosion between layers.  That amount of rusting isn't that bad.....simply brush off and either paint or wipe some grease all over it until you can paint .....you will also find a white connector near or in batter box that gets damaged by water, check it and grease it , but not too much as even dilectric can carry a very small amount of current which in this vehicle could upset things. Just in front and above batter you'll find the silver computer box that transport canada decided was a good idea which also gets water issues....check it and open it up for corrosion issues. Carefully clean out white corrosion and a light smeer of dilectric will slow that issue down also. Then  simply relocate it to a higher location and best place is hang off cross member for dash.....you may need to reroute wiring harness a bit to get it there but that location gets no water to it.
Grounding points all over the car will benefit from a good cleaning, it's a big deal for this car and it's performance and reliability. Check engine bay also for small pins and then a larger cable running from engine to bodywork or frame, in bad cars that can disintegrate and break.

 

In my winter beater I spray rust check red onto the floor boards under my carpet to help slow the rusting down.....it's far worse than what you are showing....smells ok and helps......better than stinky carpeting as the carpet is usually wet underneath.

 

 

[Leadwing 565]

18 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

i only buy from costco...best warranty around

 

they never ask for the old one

 

Cdn. Tire may ask if you have the old one, but it isn't needed to buy a new one.  They simply give you a credit of $xx dollars if you don't want the old one.  They recycle the core.  They simply remove the old one and replace it with the new one and it is your choice to either leave it or take it with you.  If you leave it. you get the dollar credit that they offer.

If you opt to change it yourself (buy a new one and replace it at home), you have 30 days in which to bring in the old one for the cash credit refund.   Totally the buyer's choice.