06cdi

SAM problems--do I understand this correctly?

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Hello fellow Smart car owners--we just bought an "as is" 06 cdi Pure, no A/ C for our 19 yr old son to tinker with.  

The "as is" part is that the SAM has been removed by the previous owner's mechanic--the PO decided he had already sunk too much money on it with replacing both the starter and alternater after it just wouldn't start. 

We got it cheap enough for what it is.  My question is --if I understand this correctly from what I've read here ( so helpful!)  is ---if we replace the SAM, ECU, entire speedo cluster unit and keys with replacements from a used car it shoould basically be plug and play ?   Provided there is no problem with the replacement SAM.   And is there anykind of reprogramming needed after a replacement?

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Welcome to the site.....why not look at the original SAM for issues first then fix them?  How much would buying all those bits cost you? I managed to find them cheap where I live before they found out how expensive they are worth.  Hopefully you get a good deal.  Do you have the original SAM? 
The next suggestion is, buy a CAA gold membership that gives you 200 free towing, 3 or them. It requires a few days or weeks to activate I think, I've had mine for years, sorry can't remember.  Then once you think you have it all zipped up, get it towed down to London to Glenn's shop. He has the STAR system if you require it to reprogram those parts. I have done mine a few times, first the SMA, then a while later the SPEEDO unit. I also have a STAR but I expect you are closer to Glenn. I also do not have room in my shop to work on it either. sorry.  Glenn is a great guy and knows his stuff.  Taking it to him if you have issues that you can't solve is a good idea....imho.  Plus he has many many spare parts if you need them.

Again, if you have the SAM, open it up and look at it for cold solder joints, You'll need some sort of magnifying lense to see it perfectly. Then use solder sucker and resolder pins, it is easy so to speak if you have a good soldering iron. Which are cheap off Amazon, I just replaced my old one. $56 I think it was.  60 WATTs. adjustable.  Good price and far better than a single heat temp old style.

 

Hope this helps...again welcome

Glenn's handle here is Smart142

 

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Thanks for your quick reply Willys!

We do have the original SAM and it has already been modded with bypass wires--the whole thing was cut out of the car when we got it, there was also a spare unaltered SAM from another source included. 

When we bought the car we didn't know there was this problem with SAMs generally within these cars--our problem-but still figure for what we got the car for some repairs still come up to less than an equivalent running car with the benefit our son tinkering and better understanding cars.  From the research alone we're learning a ton lol.

 

The car itself is uncertified so CAA will not tow it--we needed to have it towed to our house and called CAA to find out their policy on uncertified vehicles, we paid a company to tow it home.

 

We did some online research and had the original SAM ( SAM #1) open for a look--red wires were soldered in within the circuit rather than along that pin line as we'd seen on the Aging Wheels Youtube channel where " I fixed my Smart Car for FREE!!!!!!!!" fixed his. 

Apparently the PO's mechanic said the original SAM was busted and tried to swap out to the second.   We tried the same--first bought a new battery, plugged in SAM #2.  Everything comes on except the passenger side headlight, we haven't checked if it's the bulb or not, I have to get my hand in there this weekend.  The fuel pump makes primming sounds and the starter turns over but does not fire up so know  SAM #2 has some life.  Both SAMs appear to have damaged, discoloured pins which seems typical for these cars.   Nothing really happens when SAM #1 is plugged in--the bypassed wires (all red) are cut and we don't know where they go.

I really have no idea what to do about this---

-Is SAM #1 fixable?  I don't know. 

-Can #2 be installed and made to work?  I don't think so unless it's fixed with a STAR?

-Install a SAM, ECU, speedo and keys from wrecker and consider the car as basically operational then start diagnosing from a clean slate?   We have found a source for these parts--can't say if it's expensive or not but less expensive than going to a dealer!

 

Thanks for mentionning Glen--will def keep him in mind :)

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I might be wrong but I think if the car cranks and you can hear the fuel pump you have a good sam. While cranking have someone look at the alternator to make sure it is not seized. If it is you might not get the car to crank fast enough to start.  Quite common if the car has sat for a while, put a socket or wrench on the nut and work it back and forth.  Next I would spray a little WD40 (I don’t like either) in the intake while cranking and see if it will run.  Remember diesels don’t have a throttle plate so use a short spray of WD40.

 

i wouldn’t worry about the headlight until you get the car running.  It is probably a burnt pin on the sam connector and if you have been reading much here you may have already seen the fix for that.

 

As for CAA next time bolt on a set of valid plates from another car and as long as the smart doesn’t look derelict nobody will ask to see the ownership.

 

Let us know how you make out

Nigel

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This topic took an excellent tangeant over to this other thread:

...bringing back to here :)

 

Thanks for all the help!

Update--We bought the 4 pieces.  They are coming from out west and guess we'll see them in a week or so.  We'll let you know how it goes.

As per fixing the original SAM, it appears in pretty bad shape (see pic)  --- you can see we took the soldered wires off and also discovered the circuit board is missing bits from the fold on the short side of the board.

We're going to intall the parts, see how it runs and look it over more, get it certified and licence---I know, I know, probably won't be that simple  lol.   To start it may need a new plug for that pin set on the SAM.  We're hoping that once these parts are in hopefully working, it will level the playing field, see how it runs then go from there.  Will definitely keep posting here--we're certainly far from done!

This brings up a new question--to certify and license-- if the new parts are programmed to it's original vin, I'm guessing we'll have to have someone with a Star reprogram them to our vin?

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Yes and no, no-one will know what pieces make up the car, ask me how i know...lol...  What will happen is that the car will take on the milage from the highest milage vehicle. Yes the units can be reprogramed to your vin with the STAR   but if it runs without having to, and everything else is good, why bother...unless I'm forgetting something big.....wouldn't be the first time.

Those solder joints look like they weren't hot enough from the looks of them. Do not worry about that missing piece it's dead board between runs.

 

There's other locations on the board that also get bad joints I learned last week.....like i said get yourself a pair of those magnifying glasses the ones with 2 lenses and then a single round lense over one eye. My eyes aren't what they used to be and this makes them almost perfect again...lol.

 

You can easily figure out what wire goes where by simple placing connector in location and see what pin lines up where. IF you wanted to redo the wiring you found, it is a work around some have had to do.  It works ...

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The question begs to ask Willys----how do you know?     

I haven't had a car to be certified before- I thought maybe someone, mechanic or license bureau would check and the gig would be up.

 

 

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You are only certifying the vin # and the cars actual safety mechanism....but they may check for codes, that I'm not sure about. How fast did you want or think this car will be on the road?  The other thing I haven't done is replace all the components and run a car thinking it will work, some have. I have a STAR and reprogramed each component as needed along with the key fobs.  
IMHO...the garage will check the VIN # from the label on the dash. Not go into the computer looking for it. Why would they?  Unless the car has any warning lights on in the dash to tell them to check something.  Brakes , lights, windshield for cracks, seat belts, wipers, horn, and damaged brake lines seems to be the best source for them to get work from what I have found now a days....if they see any build up of rust near any joint or at the end of the brake lines where it meets the calipers or anti-lock system my mechanic will fail it, he's failed two of my cars and made me replace the lines. Tires and rims for damage and wear, leaking shocks, maybe broken coil springs?, excessive muffler noise as in a split lower seam on the muffler(it's something I can weld up for you over buying a very expensive new muffler),they I don't think check for emissions but black or blue smoke may fail, I'm not sure..? What else is there?   again why would they go after the computer system if it's working as it should and not throwing up warning lights.  
IF you are completely stuck, and I'm not dead yet...lol....I may be convinced to make the drive???....IF you need your muffler repaired that I need in my garage obviously.  New mufflers are from what I heard stupid numbers and the repair job isn't pretty but will get you many years from what I can tell from my own muffler's condition so far.  Again all your choice of course. I do not have any already welded up here to swap as exchanges, they were all sold last fall. It takes me maybe an hour to do an easy one, maybe twice that for a really bad one. I have only seen one I couldn't weld so far.
Hope this helps ....pm me for more personal information.

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the safety inspection has nothing to do with parts you used...if it works it works...

 

the only problem you might have is the odo reading when renewing stickers or registering...if its lower than a previous recording it will red flag..... i dont know if a mega jump up matters but it will look weird 

 

ive had some MTO employees make a big fuss and refuse to register ....and i had one lady at another office tell me she doesnt care because she's "not the mileage police"

 

 

i think you should contact Glen and get the car there with its parts ..ive never met him but he seems to know these cars inside and out and has the right equipment to program what needs programming

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that sam doesnt look destroyed yet....someone with the soldering gift might be able to save it

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The mileage numbers always goes up not down, to stop the old school turning back to sell for more trick of yesteryear....you can't stop that, it's preprogramed in.As soo as you run it to reprogram the unit it does it, not that it's a big deal. Really who cares as long as it's not a very special model and year, serial # rare, early......or you only had 10,000kms and it jumped to 200,000.....the car's not worth enough $$$$ to worry about it...imho.  
Yes I have been asked why the jump and I explained it, no-one cared. Even my ins. company didn't once they knew why.  They said it's commonplace now.

 

I also agree with above about your SAM....I've seen worse.   The biggest issue would be replacing the plug that is IF where it pins in hasn't been destroyed.....even so a good job of redoing what you found will work easily.  Somewhere i have seen people use completely different connectors to replace that one connection. If I remember right it was a round fancy plug and socket, found off ebay or amazon somewhere.  simple really.  IF you wish to try it get a 60 watt adjustable soldering iron and a solder sucker or se-doldering wicking braided wire, both work great at removing the old solder so you have a good clean pin to work with again, use some sort of acid to clean it then apply new solder....done deal. I use clear nail polish to seal the new work just so it can't accidentally short out.....over kill maybe, but it also weather protects it again.

 

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Both the cluster and the ecu can be cloned if u have the original....SAM I’m not sure as there’s conflicting info out there.

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50 minutes ago, stickman007 said:

Both the cluster and the ecu can be cloned if u have the original....SAM I’m not sure as there’s conflicting info out there.

Cloned as in swapped out and re-programed to the rest....if so yes did mine and have done them at different times.  Took some time but it was done, with the STAR you set up.

 

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Thanks so much for your offers of help Willys!   You sound like you've got quite the tools and skills.

 

The fellah with the parts wrote and told us he's sending the stuff Monday, we'll see how long it taks to get here in this environment.  We'll keep all the original parts together in a box just in case we need them again for whatever reason--but as it stand we will trade out the bits from the wrecked car in place of the OE.

Until then it's been like cleaning up Christine--a cleaning, headlight polish--odds and end things. It's funny how it feels like a recliner on wheels.   

Pictured is the rat's nest of electrical work done on the wireing, by the PO's mechanic, plugged into SAM#2 (not OE SAM) --that's all got to be cleanned up, and check that plug.

 

I hope all the SAMs aren't getting confusing lol

SAM#1-- OE 

SAM#2-- came as a spare with the car

SAM#3-- Soon to arrive from a wreck to replace OE.

 

We're hopeful for it to start and excited to get it going--we're still a long way I'm sure.

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Hmmm....if he charges shop rates as a mechanic with wiring skills like that he should be reported or shot...lol

I was going to say look at that plug also....lol  IMHO you need to buy a new plug or totally bypass it. There is a how to somewhere on how to do this it's easy so to speak.  I would start with the original SAM first  and see what it looks like. IMHO, swapping out just a SAM without use of the STAR is rediculous as it won't work. IMHO.  right or wrong...lol.
I'd find that plug IF the pins on the same are good enough to use, scrap yards etc just cut the plug out and walk with it....as long as it isn't similar.  There are many Smarts you'll find after doing some calling around. We used to have 4 in my local scrap yard. It's cold and winter sorry not checking, if in the warm summer months I would gladly go and look. I'm also recovering from illness.

Also did you unclip the side fuses? they need to be in the correct location as some locations are live all the time and some ign operated.

The car is a comfortable little buggy imho, nice to drive and super economical, but at today's prices who cares..lol. WOW...!   The biggest issue with it is the lag time it takes to get quickly into moving traffic. You need to think of it as a 5 ton truck and wait for the right sized gap. Not a bad thing over all anyway...lol.  It's not like other far nippier little cars that can jump off the mark into the smallest of traffic spaces.  That is what took me the longest to get used to. But once happy  no big deal.   Good luck and ask away.

 

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if the brown connector ends are still good now would be a good time to go back and fix those wires properly with solder and heatshrink

 

it would be a good idea to go ahead with relay mod too for the headlights and fuel pump control circuits

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3 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

if the brown connector ends are still good now would be a good time to go back and fix those wires properly with solder and heatshrink

 

it would be a good idea to go ahead with relay mod too for the headlights and fuel pump control circuits

Look closely at the wires coming out of brown connector, they are melted slightly by the looks of the coating on the wire.

 

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@Willys clone as in copying the memory chip off the ECU and or cluster so that you don’t need STAR to reprogram...vin, mileage, and options will be copied over without any issues.

 

 

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