PowerShellMan

Verifying process on Lowering Engine

9 posts in this topic

Starter on the Blue one has decided to "Give me the Finger" and it's replace or "Get lucky on the cables"

 

From what I see online about lowering the engine, it just seems....well too easy.  

 

IS the process from what I read

 

Remove the Plastic backend

Remove the four E bolts with the engine not jacked up

Thread in the "Special lowering bolts"

Jack up the Engine and it just starts dropping onto those bolts

 

Is it REALLY that simple? 

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Basically YES....But I would use jack stands under the body and also to keep the sub frame level as you lift it, that is IF you choose like me to not use lengthened bolts. The attachment or mounting bolts and their holes are large and easy to guide the two back together IF you make 100% sure the sub frame can't roll around etc etc. Jack stands simply to stop this from happening, not to lift it. You then simply lift the body using scissor jacks then set on another set of jack stands to do the work. Your only limits are the electrical cables and heater and A/C hoses, and you will easily see this as you lift.  Common sense and there shouldn't be any issues. 
The starter is a nasty job as it's not easy to get at the main two bolts as they are underneath and inside the inter cooler shroud or scoop.  BUT once you have the engine dropped it becomes so much easier to at least see what it is you are going after.  You could do as I did with the wreck and use a large hammer and a long pry bar to break the inter-cooler shroud away and remove it in one piece also...lol. But not recommended if you don't have a new one to replace it with...lol.  It certainly made taking out the starter even easier...lol.  You will also need to remove other parts to allow starter enough room to easily be lifted out. OR, it is possible if you figure out the puzzle and hold your tongue in the correctly twisted up position wiggle it out without removing the water pump housing, thermostat and alt.   BUT while you are this deep, isn't it beneficial to maybe replace these not that so expensive parts if you can afford while you have things so dismantled?  That is my theory and tactic when working on ignorant items. Fix it all when it's apart not keep going back in fixing things as they fall apart.  Mentality. Yes more expensive up front, but far more mentally satisfying to get all the crap jobs done at one time. Knowing they shouldn't cause you any grief for the next forseeable future. Fingers crossed.  Oh, from the front you can see just where the shroud rubs the tubes of the inter cooler to see if that too will be an issue. Fix that also while in this state imho. Either by a home made repair (JB-Weld) or new inter-cooler...

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

i didnt have bolts so i raised the car on stands and then used an atv type jack to carefully lower the subframe

 

 

 

if you dont hear the solenoid clicking it might just be a bad connection on the starter spade ....which is barely accessible but it can be fiddled with if you have a lot of patience

 

 

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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i didnt have bolts so i raised the car on stands and then used an atv type jack to carefully lower the subframe

I did it the opposite way, unhooked the sub frame, placed a jack stand under front engine mount to keep it horizontal so to speak then used two sissor jacks , one each side and lifted body off sub frame. So simple. Then lowered the body onto two jack stands up out of the way. Lift the entire vehicle then lower the engine....this was for some reason so much easier...?

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I didnt have room to move the car body from where it sat...but i had lots of room to roll the subframe out backwards

 

 

4 hours ago, PowerShellMan said:

Remove the Plastic backend

Remove the four E bolts with the engine not jacked up

Thread in the "Special lowering bolts"

Jack up the Engine and it just starts dropping onto those bolts

 

Is it REALLY that simple?

i took mine right out after lowering it...i dont recall how much slack the brake lines and abs wires had but it will be very obvious if you need to disconnect them....the abs wires will unplug right near the fuel filter

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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5 hours ago, PowerShellMan said:

Starter on the Blue one has decided to "Give me the Finger" and it's replace or "Get lucky on the cables"

 

From what I see online about lowering the engine, it just seems....well too easy.  

 

IS the process from what I read

 

Remove the Plastic backend

Remove the four E bolts with the engine not jacked up

Thread in the "Special lowering bolts"

Jack up the Engine and it just starts dropping onto those bolts

 

Is it REALLY that simple? 

 

Also remove the rear belly pan. Then on the drivers side there is a black holder that supports the brake and the anti lock lines. A 10mm plastic nut holds it on.

Loosen and then the brake lines are given more slack in the lowering process.

I also remove the air inlet cover on the drivers side.

 

When raising the engine make sure the E brake insert goes into the plastic tube.

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Some including myself find it advantageous to remove left wheel arch liner. You then have access to unbolt inlet duct from outboard side of air box. Also cut both nylon tie wraps that hold wiring looms to inboard side of air box. Make sure hand brake lever is in lowest position when lowering engine. Drop very gently and keep checking cables and hoses making sure none become tight and suffer damage.

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I've got a great mechanic and may get a quote on having him do it.  He does service on the Smarts.   

 

I did follow the tips and did the "tap tap tap" with a little plastic rod on the starter and got it to go.   So "something" is starting to go.

 

The White one will be certified this week.   Thanks for all the great tips.   most if it wasn't bad but as my friend (Certified Ontario Mechanic) said.... "It fought us every inch ... ;) "

 

The only bummer was RockAuto shipped up a Brake Drum that looks perfect for the Smart but it has a 4 bolt pattern instead of a 3 bolt pattern.

 

Did any of the Smarts have a 4 bolt pattern?

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1 hour ago, PowerShellMan said:

Did any of the Smarts have a 4 bolt pattern?

 

only in the last few years...like 2017 or 2018 and up

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