06cdi

450 cdi-how to set cam and crank shaft timing

5 posts in this topic

Did you miss us?  Did you think we sold it?  (We very nearly did lol--we 're trying again with a bit of progress)

This new thread started here when it was thought just a n electrical problem:  

The SAM and such problem has apparently been rectified and the car turned over but did not start.  Best thing that has happened!     Adam droppped the engine, took off the valve cover and discovered 2 broken rocker arms and a spongy tappet ( bit with a nipply thing on the end directly under the rocker arm).  Have since replaced these parts.   May still need to take the head off and check for bent valves but not going there right now..... what we would like to know at this point is how do we determine the cam/crank timing if we don't know where anything is right now--this engine has been turning with and without chain and we're not sure when or how the rocker arms broke--- so it's turned no doubt with and without valves moving maybe----I know, I know, it's an interference engine so valves must be bent, busted, in that case but we need to get our heads around timing first.   

Thanks so much and hope everyone has had a good and healthy summer.   I wish we had more tomatoes.

20200905_140718.jpg

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Hmmmmm......I remember something like this, wondering what the head looked like.....then ended up rebuilding the entire engine....beware!
MW-SMART over in Germany is where I purchased all my new engine parts if you are wondering. They have everything needed to completely rebuild our engines.    Will cost you plenty of red round things....lol.

 

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all the info is here somewhere...i know i found everything i needed to know right here on clubsmartcar way back when i had to do all my timing chains and oil chain sprocket

 

maybe do some searched with timing chain or oil chain as the subject

 

some of the older threads will be a mess due to stupid photobucket removing free hosting ..some very good pictures will be blurred and watermarked 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

pull the cam out and check valve stems height...youll know right away if any are bent

 

dont worry about valve timing until the damage is fixed and by the sounds of it youll be taking off the head to change some valves..

 

my best advice for putting things together is to be diligent with the inch pound torque wrench,,,its super easy to strip out threads if you start tightening things by hand ...even if very experienced (dont ask how i know)

 

 

from a short search and memory it would appear that timing chain will be in proper time when crank key is up and centered (with cylinder bore)...and when the window in cam sprocket is down with the two flat lines horizontal (if you imagine centerline of piston travels as vertical...if you dont understand what i mean  go check willys rebuild picture thread in the wiki section..theres a good picture in there of the chain side after install

Edited by LooseLugNuts
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Go to my photo's of my CDI rebuild pics, it shows you the correct position to have the cam which is opposite of where I would have placed it until I read the German shop manual I bought to make sure I did it correctly. Normally the line Looselugnuts is refering to in above the centre line of the sprocket but this engine requires it to be below as the pic clearly shows.   Again this is going strictly from the Smart shop manual in German and then I used my phone to translate it but the picture showed it this way. Same as how they described it to be.  I would pull the head just to see if the valves require resurfacing if not grinding etc, This then starts the ball rolling as to cracked rockers and known issue, then deformed tops of the damn forgot the name of the springy things, it'll come to me....wait.....augh...LIFTERS......all mine at 160 K  were deformed so required changing for new after buying new rockers....not expensive at MW-Smart....IF you are in this deep imho, it only makes sense to do it all right and not ever have to back in again. It will be basically a brand new engine.  They sell rebuilt engines but I bet the shipping would be way way too much.  But if we were in the same country it'll be cheaper to buy that over all parts and machining and time imho.

I second the purchase and use of a good inch pound torque wrench and also turn the setting down a bit if using loc-tite.....I also have stripped out small aluminium threads.....on a bike not the smart  if I recall correctly.  I loc-tite everything whether you think it's right or not, it's just a choice. To each their own.

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