marinersk

Replacement Bolts?

14 posts in this topic

Okay, I wrestled with this little piggie far longer than I'd care to admit, and I've deformed the ever-loving daylights out of one of the E14 Torx bolts that holds up the X-Frame.  
Others show signs of wear due to poor socket fit during disassembly.
Are these bolts fairly standard, or do I need to find a specialty provider?

 

 

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You can replace the Torx bolts with Allen heads if you wish, as long as the thread and length match the original but you should be able to buy Torx bolts at most nut and bolt supply stores.

A Google search should be able to point you in the right direction for a supplier in your area.  Just search local Torx bolt suppliers.

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Torx headed bolts are no good if you live in a rust belt. For that reason I have replaced most Torx headed bolts for hex headed stainless steel bolts.

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Perfect, thanks!  I hadn't gotten around to searching, so the vindication is welcome.

 

However, I do live in the rust belt again (OMG do I ever).  I will likely go with hex headed stainless and note that in my owner's log.

 

Thanks!

 

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So, going full hypothetical here, if every bolt in the Smart were replaced with hex stainless, it wouldn't increase the weight enough to matter to the fuel mileage, I should think.  Especially not after plopping my 15-stone behind into the driver's seat....

 

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24 minutes ago, marinersk said:

So, going full hypothetical here, if every bolt in the Smart were replaced with hex stainless, it wouldn't increase the weight enough to matter to the fuel mileage, I should think.  Especially not after plopping my 15-stone behind into the driver's seat....

 

Ha Ha ha ha ha...........15 times 14 is....close to my weight ......damn.....No won't effect fuel economy imho...lol

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26 minutes ago, marinersk said:

So, going full hypothetical here, if every bolt in the Smart were replaced with hex stainless, it wouldn't increase the weight enough to matter to the fuel mileage, I should think.  Especially not after plopping my 15-stone behind into the driver's seat....

 

Stainless steel nuts and bolts have a lower tensile strength than HSS nuts and bolts so don't use them in strength critical areas.

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Nothing wrong with regular high strength bolts if you paint then apply marine grease to them after installation imho...again to each their own and yes I also live in the gov't salt ruin your vehicle zone......

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3 hours ago, Big453 said:

 

Stainless steel nuts and bolts have a lower tensile strength than HSS nuts and bolts so don't use them in strength critical areas.

I have fitted A2-70 stainless steel bolts and nuts nearly everywhere on my Smart Cabrio. 

 

The most critical application in my case is the stainless steel bolts holding X frame to rear subframe (M10) and to deDion tube (M12). 

lnitially I kept checking these bolts regularly even removed them, checked bolts for deformation, elongation and checked for cracks with dye penetrant testing. After now ten years in service these critical bolts are still as good as new. 

 

I have also fitted stainless steel bolts on front steering knuckle as seen in below photo. 

DSC03962.jpg

 

 

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Just wonder if anyone likes my soup plate splash guard. This one has a stainless steel core. 

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DSC03960.jpg

Starboard and left splash guard soup plates with original splash guard in centre and spare plates below. 

Zoom in and you may see stainless steel centre rings. 

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Simply buy brand new disks from dealership and paint well, I'll bet they never rust out again....well worth the many dollars spent....lol. Again to each their own....lol

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I have run through three sets of original splash guards. They are made from powder coated pressed mild steel. Powder coating flakes off after only two years and steel disintegrates after four years. Have high hopes for longevity of my plastic soup plates. 

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I had wondered about the starkly contrasting pink component, but figured it was somehow normal and didn't ask.

 

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