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Paul

Another day, another issue

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Decided to do an oil change today. Easy as usual, right? No, it wont start now, just cranks, and coughs and sputters, then just it will just crank. Also, now the fuel/water light is on for the first time ever. The fuel level had just gone to 5 litres from 1 blob before I started the oil change and put the back end up on ramps. I put it back on the ground, and added a few litres of fuel. No difference. If I cycle the ignition a few times it will sometimes fire for a second or two before it just cranks again. Seriously, every time I do maintenance on this thing it does something else to spite me. ARRGH!

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Too much noise around to hear the pump, and no to the mod. Literally I have never had this issue until I went to start it after an oil change

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Oh yeah, at $236 plus tax for an original fuel filter kit, are the $39 ebay filters ok?

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$29 at Canadian Tire.  GF1916  you need to move the water sensor over to the new filter.  Sometimes the white connector in the battery bay will cause the water in fuel light to glow.

 

Nigel

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Enough oil to show about 2/3 above the low mark after a few times cranking. Its ok

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6 hours ago, Paul said:

Oh yeah, at $236 plus tax for an original fuel filter kit, are the $39 ebay filters ok?

 

check carquest or parts source

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Hmmmm.....you following my footsteps buddy....?

Sounds like my good car's issues at the moment.  Have you done the usual tractor testing for air in the fuel lines etc etc, cracking for trapped air?  No get to listening for fuel pump to hear it getting power, now check high pressure pump. I bet you'll be into a rebuild. It's easy so to speak....BUT...it does have a few small bits and pieces to watch for so I have learned. Replace all seals,"O"-rings, lean it an inch from it's life and then repeat. Next watch when you dismantle it when dealing with the small domino sized valving under each head. Don't mix up the heads, in the domino shaped valves you'll see a capped disc and a spring. It may be stuck, non moving. My good car's pump had 2 out of the 3 like this. When I went to spread the caped fingers a bit they snapped! Easily, BEWARE! Yes you can buy replacements cheaply,  all three will cost you $40 roughly, I'm waiting for mine now, taking a month to get them. IF you need these let me know and I'll send the link. Also I had to go to the dealership for the two larger "O"-rings around the pump's body where they seal it to the engine. If I recall correctly on another pump I rebuilt for the beater. Also from experience do not use anything but clean diesel fuel to lubricate the parts when reassembling the pump. I tried to use vaseline thinking it would be washed away when the pump got fuel....nope it simply wouldn't pressurize....so another cleaning and bingo it worked perfectly. Another issue is there is a very thin ring under this domino valve set up that only fits one way, don't miss this step or loose said ring. It's included in new seal kit.
Hope this helps.  I bought my fuel filter from Canadian Tire or NAPA/UAP   cheaper than a dealership and works perfectly. As said above, you must swap the sensor etc from old to new filter.  Do the relay and check your SAM for damaged solder joints on the same row of pins as the headlights.....and plug connections.  Check pump ground also.

 

Here's the link for the domino valve ...cheap for what it is...imho.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/201861790542

 

 

Again hope this helps.

 

Edited by Willys

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12 hours ago, Paul said:

Enough oil to show about 2/3 above the low mark after a few times cranking. Its ok

so its is ok now?  i wonder if you have a small leak in a fuel line?  raising the rear of the car while doing the oil change might have drained all your fuel back into the tank   (explaining the reserve to 1 blob) on your fuel guage and also explaining the excessive cranking to get it to start.

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Still no go today. The gauge read 5 litres before and after I put it up on the ramps, and it took a few runs to back it up onto them, although it was running fine after i got it up there. I just cracked a union on the fuel rail, and got no fuel. If I cycle the ignition a few times, it fires up after a couple seconds of cranking then dies. Then it wont fire until I let it sit, and cycle again. Of course its garbage day, and theres a sewer sucker truck out on the street, so I cant even hear if the fuel pump is working. I have put a couple gallons in the tank to no avail.

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easiest thing first.   are you out of fuel?  your gauge might be off by a bit.

if you have fuel in the tank and are getting no fuel at the 14m line from the high pressure pump to the rail then it has to be the pump in the tank is not working or your fuel filter is plugged.

 

the fuel system in these cars is self priming,  so even if you have air in a line,  it should still clear itself out after a few cycles of the key.

sorry,  i just noticed that you had put a couple of gallons of fuel in,  so it has to be the low pressure pump or the filter.

Edited by Sydney

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yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards.Great, now that the temp is dropping, and its on a gravel driveway. Not looking forward to this. It seems every time I do something to the car, something else screws up. getting a little peeved with it

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41 minutes ago, Paul said:

yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards.Great, now that the temp is dropping, and its on a gravel driveway. Not looking forward to this. It seems every time I do something to the car, something else screws up. getting a little peeved with it

don't give up on it.  yes they can be a pain in the ass to keep on the road.

i had 7 of them,  down to 6 now.  i love tinkering with them.   getting hard to find parts now though.

 

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30 minutes ago, Sydney said:

don't give up on it.  yes they can be a pain in the ass to keep on the road.

i had 7 of them,  down to 6 now.  i love tinkering with them.   getting hard to find parts now though.

 

If I had a proper place to work on it, I wouldn't mind so much. I still like it when its not being a PITA

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3 hours ago, Paul said:

If I had a proper place to work on it, I wouldn't mind so much. I still like it when its not being a PITA

Maintenance buddy ....you know...that 4 letter word...lol.

 

 

 

Nuff said...lol.

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2 hours ago, Willys said:

Maintenance buddy ....you know...that 4 letter word...lol.

 

 

 

Nuff said...lol.

How long have you been maintenancing your good car now haha

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Just now, Paul said:

How long have you been maintenancing your good car now haha

I did say it was a four letter word didn't I......lol.    2 years I think....to be honest but I have also been maintaining my beater at the same time.....but that one gets beater quality maintenance, not a restoration type swearing at...lol.

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check the sam plug ...the brown one i think its called n-11 but could be mistaken...

 

fuel pump circuit is pin 8 or 10 i cant remember that either but if it burned out it will be really obvious

 

 

or if you can get to the filter theres a port there on the top you can open and when you turn the key youll know right away if the low pressure in-tank pump is pumping

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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I got a filter yesterday at crappy tire, and will start by tackling that, but I will check for output

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IF you haven't checked your SAM yet do so, just to see if the pins aren't cooked...just saying...if they are then deal with the relay issue mod and see..?

 

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Fuse 16 is good. Without removing the SAM it doesnt look like its ever seen water up in there. Doesn't seem like the low pressure pump is working, although I really cant ever remember hearing it cycle anyhow

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if you are 100% certain you have the correct wire from the SAM to the fuel pump.  just check it with a test light or jump 12v to it from the battery.

the pump is very easy to hear.  it should run for about 3 seconds then stop.

just make sure you have the correct wire.   (if you are going to be doing the relay mod,  you will have to cut the wire anyway)

 

red/black wire.   brown plug pin 10      (search evilution site under pinouts for SAM diagram)

 

Edited by Sydney
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