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Paul

Another day, another issue

40 posts in this topic

4 hours ago, Paul said:

Fuse 16 is good. Without removing the SAM it doesnt look like its ever seen water up in there. Doesn't seem like the low pressure pump is working, although I really cant ever remember hearing it cycle anyhow

Just because it's not seen water won't be the reason it is damaged, it's a heat up issue not water damage I'm afraid.   Take your SAM out and open her up, then unfold it and you'll see that nasty row of 10 or so pins under the last fold if I remember correctly.....get the strong magnifiers out and you'll see the cracked solder joints or worse burnt up connections and tracks.  Getting the SAM out and unfolded isn't that big of a job once you get it unclipped that is from under the dash. REMEMBER to disconnect your battery as you'll be playing with a large red live wire. SAM's aint cheap.....just saying is all.

 

Enjoy....

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7 minutes ago, Paul said:

That will be tomorrows fun I guess

IF your SAM is totally fried I have one for a reasonable price....IF you need one.   I think, pretty sure I'll check when you say you need it.

I can also teach it in for you with my STAR.  But it would have to be badly cooked on those pins imho to be forced to buy another.

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Ok, some success today. Took out the sam, and almost all of the solder connections on the gang of 10 were bad. Resoldered them and put it back together. Still no start. Checked for voltage on the red/black wire and there was nothing. Jumpered that wire to power, and the car starts! The number 10 terminal on the brown connector is bad so it isnt conducting power. I'll see about a new connector at MB tomorrow. I also noticed that someone has put in a relay for I think a headlight circuit. One terminal on it looks cooked too so I'll have to investigate that as well. Thanks for the help guys, hopefully Ive got it now. Rain has started again, so I'm done for today. Stupid engineers!

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1 hour ago, Paul said:

Ok, some success today. Took out the sam, and almost all of the solder connections on the gang of 10 were bad. Resoldered them and put it back together. Still no start. Checked for voltage on the red/black wire and there was nothing. Jumpered that wire to power, and the car starts! The number 10 terminal on the brown connector is bad so it isnt conducting power. I'll see about a new connector at MB tomorrow. I also noticed that someone has put in a relay for I think a headlight circuit. One terminal on it looks cooked too so I'll have to investigate that as well. Thanks for the help guys, hopefully Ive got it now. Rain has started again, so I'm done for today. Stupid engineers!

From what I heard they don't sell that connector at the dealership and people can't seem to find it.....so they simply by pass the connector for the pins that are that bad and use another way to connect those pins. One guy even changed out the entire connector with something else with 10 pins in it.....it worked but looked like a load of work. Far cheaper than buying a new SAM though!   Don't forget to relay the pump when you do it.

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3 hours ago, Paul said:

Ok, some success today. Took out the sam, and almost all of the solder connections on the gang of 10 were bad. Resoldered them and put it back together. Still no start. Checked for voltage on the red/black wire and there was nothing. Jumpered that wire to power, and the car starts! The number 10 terminal on the brown connector is bad so it isnt conducting power. I'll see about a new connector at MB tomorrow. I also noticed that someone has put in a relay for I think a headlight circuit. One terminal on it looks cooked too so I'll have to investigate that as well. Thanks for the help guys, hopefully Ive got it now. Rain has started again, so I'm done for today. Stupid engineers!

you can bypass the Sam output for the fuel pump all together if you want.  just install a relay to power the pump and trigger the relay off one of the spare ignition outputs on the side of the SAM.

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I thought someone else said that you will get an error code if you just bypass the SAM fuel pump circuit under certain conditions

Edited by Paul

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Put the relay circuit in. Connected to a switched  fuse connector on the SAM for trigger, and to the large power terminal for power. Both are fused now. Seems to work fine. Thanks for the help

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when i did my cabrio the terminal and connector had melted but it was still giving out a signal so i used the original pin to power the control side of the relay...the car would never know the difference

 

i think i tapped for high amp fuel pump power right from the main sam input 

 

 

how did the headlight pins look?...they are the middle ones on that same connector

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Posted (edited) · Report post

nevermind that last question...i hadnt read it all above

 

 

for headlights if you have one good pin and one bad one you can use the one good one to power 2 relays (one for each headlight...the draw from 2 relays is very very low and will work just fine

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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12 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

nevermind that last question...i hadnt read it all above

 

 

for headlights if you have one good pin and one bad one you can use the one good one to power 2 relays (one for each headlight...the draw from 2 relays is very very low and will work just fine

I had a closer look at it, and whoever put the relay in previously has patched into one of the headlight circuits, and hooked two headlight output wires to the one relay. Way too much load, as it has partially melted the output terminal on the relay. I'll have to fix that too

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Posted (edited) · Report post

must be a small one they used or a bad connection ..most relays are ok with up to 30 amp

 

id still use one for each though....but the powering both relays from one headlight pin is no problem ...the control side draw is just milliamps 

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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