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cserson

New Problem; Quits randomly when driving - have to sit to restart

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Hey everyone,

 

I had solved my last problem, or so it seemed. Not sure if this can be related (see older post from me). 
 

My husband had found an exposed ground, fixed it and I had been driving the car up until last Tuesday with zero issues. 
 

I commute 74.6km (one way) to work Mon-Fri. Last week, drove the car to work, signed in and then went to park. After leaving the office to park, the car just randomly died. No warning at all, car just quit but the dash lights and radio continued to work. I also should mention that the gear box did not show anything other than what gear I was in. I restarted it and went to the parking lot. Assumed this was a one off. 
 

Fast forward to the end of the day - driving home, immediately the car was acting strange. Chugging, as if I were actually driving with a clutch and was terrible at it (rabbit hops) or I compared it to when my previous car (not smart) had a bad coil and it chugged and lounged forward strangely. Then about 10km away from work, it died. I didn’t even realize it until I was losing power going up a hill. I coasted to a safe spot, and pulled over. No warning lights again, temp was fine, gears lowered as my speed lowered, lights and radio still worked. Waited a few minutes, car started and I was off again. 
 

I drove another 20km approximately, and it happened again. Waited again, and drove maybe another 15km. It died again. But this time, would not start again. Trailered it home, and the next day it started. I haven’t driven it since because of the distance I travel for work, and to rent the trailer is $70CAN. 
 

I checked the plug that was originally giving me issues (plugged into the SAM unit), the brown one that has the fuel pump and low beam lights on it, and it wasn’t burnt like last time. Maybe a bit dirty, but no signs of being hot or corrosion. 
 

What else could there be that I am

unaware of? I really need to get this car going again! My Dodge Journey is killing my bank account at the pumps!!! 
 

Thanks in advance :) 

Edited by cserson

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You need to have the codes read by a star computer.

I'm betting it will be the crank sensor.(not a fun job to change)

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I agree with Glenn's thoughts but also have you taken your SAM out and opened it up to check that plugs connections on the SAM and then the row of pins where everything originates from. That is where the cold solder joints will be located at that cause all sorts of issues. You will probably need to use magnifiers to see the cracks  and then some are very obvious. The hard to see cracks are so fine , they will be a slight ring around the pin half way into the solder around the pin.  IF there is any line or cracks the pin needs to be de-soldered using braided solder wire or a solder sucker.  The braided wire is the easiest to use by far imho. You need also a modern soldering iron that heats up fast and at a much higher heat or is adjustable heat wise. The idea is to set it at a high temp and heat the pin up with the braided wire laying on top of pin but under soldering iron. The braided wire simply attracts all the solder from the pin and you lift both iron and wire up and it's clean! Then when re-soldering it I add a bit of acid paste to area to be re-soldered and re-solder the connection. Done deal. I find most SAMs need at least 3 pins done, both low beam pins and the low pressure fuel pump pin. There can be many pins that have cracks around then when you look for the cracks on that row.  But I would be definately doing this before changing the crank position sensor as that is a terrible job. It's in such a hard place to get at.  Just my bent nickle's worth.

Also think about getting a AAA recovery plan for your car...it follows the driver not the car so will work on any car you own or use, even other people's vehicles if you are left stranded. We used to use Canadian Tire's version of it then switched to AAA...slightly better plan...not such exactly the difference now.  But one tow will easily cover the cost of the plan especially if you travel longer distances from home like you do.  Slightly more than the trailer rental but not by much if I recall correctly!

Keep us up to date with your findings.    Oh another thing to check is all the grounding pins you can find around the car, near the battery, in the engine bay and near the SAM, check between the eyelets not a casual peek as the corrosion will be between the eyelets. Maybe also the silver box, which transport canada installed for us, open it up, it gets fuzzy inside and also in the connections.

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

It’s acting like something is getting hot  and making it stall, but again there are no warning lights. After letting it sit for a few hours it will start again, could that still be related to the crank sensor?

Edited by cserson

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Have you taken your SAM out yet?  It's a far easier job than playing with the crank sensor...just saying....and it's a known issue to peek at in any case.

 

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my experience with crank sensors on all cars is that they either work or they dont...ive never had one cause rough running...just random full stops..

 

 

i suspect fuel pump or fuel system 

 

 

check codes for clues 

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Well, the running rough hasn’t happened again since my post. But now it won’t start at all. Husband took it to drop our daughter off at daycare, it stalled pulling in. Then he got a km and a half away and it died. And we left it there and tried once at noon and again after 4pm when he was done work. Sat all day and would not start. Would roll over, but not fire. Like it did with the low beam plug that we changed. We had a spare, so changed it again, and still nothing. Husband has the sam unit out now looking at it. He does want to look at the fuel filter though. Will update again. 

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Don't worry too much about the areas between the copper tracks unless really bad, yes they are getting there, but from what I can see still very operational.  Take the circuit board out of the body carefully making sure not to snap too many clips off. Unfold it and go after the N11-3 connector row of pins, it's the same row as the headlight s and fuel pump etc....and carefully examine all of the solder joints looking for a very very faint line around the pin in the solder.  IF you can see any line at all, it needs to be re-soldered and use braided copper de-soldering wire as it is the easiest! You also need to use a high heat soldering gun or iron so you do not heat up the circuit board while you are removing the old solder around each pin. There are many posts showing these pins and what to look for I'm sure on this site somewhere. IF you are capable of doing the relay mod for both low beam pins and also the fuel pump it'll help you greatly to do it now so you don't need to keep unfolding the board. Also check the plug and the connections for it for any over heating signs. Re-solder them also if you can or at least take pics so we can see what you are working with.  There is also a grounding pin to the left rear of the SAM unit on the firewall which can get bad connections due to the water running from windshield like so many of them do.
Hope this helps

 

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