flekker

3 bars in display

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Looking for a diagram for the Canadian model 2006 diesel.  I am looking for the running and head light wireing.

Initially I had no running lights on the left of the car (front and back). I changed the little box where the battery is and no difference.  Cant remember the pins from the sam unit but when there was power coming out to the light circuit but nothing at the head light.  I not having a proper diagram to use I decided to disconnect the supply wire to the low beam and connect other wire that was there (i assume the wiring for head light in other parts of the world).  I then had running and low beam on the left hand side but still nothing on the LH in the rear.

1 month later and all I have working is the high beams on both sides and only running and low beam on LH side.  trying to find out where the connection (plugs in the harness)from sam unit to the rail light and head light.

I also have the 3 bars showing up one or twice every day for about the past 3 months. To and from work about a 220 km round trip.

90% of the time it happens when the car is decelerating or if I let off the gas.  Happens at any speed. The 3 bars show up and it seems to shift into neutral. If I press the gas the RPM goes up.  I have to pull over, shut the car off, turn the key on if 3 bars go away it will start.  If the 3 bars are till there I have to keep cycling the key from on to off until the bars disappear. (if I have to cycle the key when the key is turned on I can hear the shift motor selecting gears every time is turn the key from on to off until the 3 bars disappear.) I checked the wire harness at the shift motor and along he precooler and all is fine.

Any suggestions is welcome.  At this point all I can come up with is to pull the drive train and rip the harness apart or if anyone has a good harness I will swap it.

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Take your SAM apart and check the row of pins well known to get sold solder joints(cracks around the actual pins) that need to be de-soldered then re-soldered...easy job if you have a newer soldering iron that is a high heat unit. Use de-soldering braided wire to suck the old solder off pins and simple clean with some flux/acid and re-solder.  The burnt pins will be the centre ones controling the headlights and while you are in there check the rest in that row, fuel pump is at one end or close to it.   

As for the 3 bars, what is your boost levels like? do they go over 16.4 if they do the car will go into limp mode and act like you are describing. Mine does it almost every time after allowing it to sit idle for any length of time especially after a good rain soaking. I simply remove rear bumper and rework waste gate and lube it.....good until the next time.  IF that isn't it, try readjusting your actuator and check for the dreaded hole in the shift fork arm where the actuator pushes against it. IF not that recheck your gear selection wiring. Check for continuity between wire and through plug as in is the wire cut at the crimpings...?  Yes I have found one of mine like that. IF you take your gear selection motor off don't take it apart....or it will need to be retaught and I expect it will also if you take it off transmission...?  Have you removed the white connection at the front of the battery well or at least c hecked it for corrosion?  Also the silver box above battery area that transport canada installed which controls the headlights and all lights I believe....again for corrosion. One of mine was covered inside with the white death, tooth brush and vinegar and a hair drier and some clear nail polish fixed it.   Hope this helps.

 

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Finally  got to working on the smart again.  I hacked the wire to fix the light since I did not find any in the SAM and didn't want to spend all day chasing it. I hooked the original wireing that was disconnected  at the head light and ran 2 new wire to the rear for the left and right running lights.  Light problem fixed for now.  We will see for how long.

I disconnected the rod from the waste gate to check it out like Willys suggested and found it to be not notchy in the movement, it would even stick if I apply load in a certain direction to move the valve by hand. So far it looks like we are on the right path, but as always it's never that easy.  I have discovered that I also have a cracked exhaust manifold.  I have decided to just rip the complete assembly off the motor I blow up this summer and install it.   Mercedes wants $7.50 for a stud and $2.50 per nut. I don't want to spend $70 plus taxes on studs and nuts.

Can anyone tell what the thread size if of the studs.  I will buy stainless  threaded rod and nuts instead.

Any tips would be help full.  By the looks of it, it should not be a pain full job one we adopt the the mentality of heat it to get it off or melt it if need lol.

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You can weld the manifold if you want. It must be heated cherry red then stick weld it as it's glowing hot.....I have done many this way in the past and it works....but better to either buy new or find a good old unit to use.  As for the waste gate, at each end of the stroke is where mine was sticky so to speak, and plenty of movement and penetrating fluid solved it, took long enough but it did become much free-er...
I have seen people simply use bolts to attach the header....I'll go and find a stud and measure it today.....fingers crossed.  Stainless would be my choice.....and plenty of never seize.

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M8 1.25  35mm length from edge of nut to end of stud.....or 1 1/4" bolt length if you are after a bolt that will go  from where one of my seized studs is at to the end of the stud. So this length would be good if using a lock washer under head of new bolt. I see a very slight sign of bottoming out maybe on this stud. Total length of stud is 1 3/4" or 45mm   M8 1.25 thread.

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Well I got the turbo assembly off the scrap engine and managed to save all the nuts and studs, came out pretty easy.

 Ant say the same for the one in the car,

snapped 3 studs (insert colour full language)

and I’m out of oxygen ( a bit more colour full language). Have to wait till tomorrow to extract the studs.

I have a crap ton of oil coming from the EGR.

it’s soaking wet.  I thought it was coming from

the turbo, but the turbo is pretty dry compared to the EGR. Not sure what’s happening there. For some reason my pics are too big to upload.

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As for your pics, you need to use a re-sizing app.  or simply reduce the size of the pics taken in the camera itself....I do not take pictures to keep for anything important such as family type pics so quality doesn't matter to me...lol.
The EGR, take it off and either get rid of it or soak it in gasoline as that i found ate the black crud the best.  Then you have a three choices, either reinstall it as it was, modify it by turning the top 180 degrees i think it is or lastly get rid of it completely and get a stickman007 emulator and install it along with removing  the heater hoses and also weld up the heater pipe coming off the manifold. Also block off EGR opening with a block off plate and install a piece of muffler adapter pipe to replace EGR in the hosing. You get rid of about 4 feet of heater hosing, save a good chunk of space by removing EGR which allows better reach for other bolts etc.  
As for the oil check the inter cooler rad, front lower righthand corner if i recall correctly is where it starts from and moves in time all across the bottom of the fins. The inter cooler scoop housing rattles against the fin tubes and finally wears through them.  Now you have two choices here, either cut fins off tubes carefully and clean extremely well and use many many layers of JB-Weld to slowly build up enough epoxy to cover damages and reinstall. Yes it does work and work well but looks like crap, but who sees it?  Best way is to replace red with a good used one or a new one. Now you must trim 1/4" off the lower scoop housing so it never happens again.  The second spot to look for excessive oil or sludge build up is inside the valve cover. It has a baffle inside it which like the EGR gets all gummed up and needs cleaning out once it gets bad. It does come apart to make it easier but again gasoline is your friend to break down the sludge I found.   OR you can use the chemical of your choice, I tried a few and none worked like gasoline, nowhere near as good. After doing all this check all hoses etc for any leaks and rub through areas. 
I have two emulators and neither have let me down yet. Excellent workmanship and imho worth the coin asked.   Stickman007 is a member here.  Very nice and helpful guy!  

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Thanks for the info Willys.  

I decided to clean the EGR valve and put it back. I wanted to get the car back on the road ASAP.  Have you seen the gas prices lately and my truck is acting up.

I put the call back together with a a used turbo/header/waste gate assembly.  fired it up and all was well for about 1 minute.  Touched the gas a bit  and the engine died and refused to start.  Will crank over but that's it.

As a precautionary measure is stopped working on the car at that moment (11pm) to save it from me putting a rag in the tank and lighting it.  lol

With a fresh mind and spirits and began the trouble shooting the following day.  Long story short. I unplugged the engine driven fuel pump and checked for power at the plug and did not get any power. I then went ahead and tried to start with the pump disconnected and noting. Using a test light and while cranking the engine over I then back probed the black wire coming from the plug and nothing, then I back probed the white wire and nothing, but then she started.  This is with the fuel pump still disconnected. I plugged it back in and she has been running so far for the last 450km.  Still have the 3 bars showing up like before.

This weekend I am going to adjust the clutch actuator next.   I don't want to do to many things at once, makes if hard to figure out what was actually wrong.

Fingers crossed and I'll make sure there are no rags handy to put in the tank when the frustration kick in again. lol 

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Hmmm....I am at the wiring going to the fuel pump also at the moment.....trying to decide if the pump is getting power or not when cranking or running?  I found there are many wires going to the pump assembly. Far more than what a normal person would normally send to do the job. One wire is a signal to turn the pump on when cranking from the SAM so my paperwork says...right or wrong it's there...?  I cut the main power wire for the pump just to verify it is actually working if you send 12V to it and sure enough fuel comes flying out! So that crossed off question or not the pump is working. Next I need to try and figure out what all the other wires are for in this wiring strand as there are like 5 or 7 wires all going to the pump location. OK, 2 must go to the sender or maybe just one, I don't know yet. Then you have two ground wires, one going to the pump the other going nowhere that used to go to the old fuel filter from Europe. That one is now dead and gone, lol. So then you need one main power wire for the pump, got it. Then the paperwork says there is a signal power wire to tell pump something from SAM...?   Then there are a couple of others....why...?  I really do not want to drop the tank to find out.  Plus to top it all off, this wiring strand has zero protection except a loosely wrapped electrical tape to keep the wires together, no loom nothing. Another fix coming soon...!

 

I too have to walk away many time as not to get the heavy hammer out and call it a dead issue....lol.   But to me this is sort of entertainment restoring it but lately it's bad  B grade entertainment to say the least...lol....all my own doing I might add....so no blame on the car itself.  Plus if and when it finally does purrrr, then it will last for many many years to come.   And with the fuel prices as they are and climbing, we need these little cars to keep going as long as possible!

Can I ask if you have considered the Crank Position Sensor yet...?   It is a real pain in the ass to get to with sub frame in the car but , it may be your issue? Mine was stuck in the block when i disassembled my engine which made it way easier to remove but if it was an assembled engine I can imagine it being a real bugger to change as many have said before.  I only changed mine when I did just so I didn't have to do it after the fact.

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The pump that is driven off the camshaft is the high pressure pump and is mechanical.  The connector on it is used to shut off one third of the pump at low speed and it opens as more fuel is required.  I don’t remember if it is normally closed or open but it will start and run in either position.  Now if the electric pump in the tank (lift pump) is no supplying fuel to the high pressure pump the engine will not start.  The most common cause for this in the diesel smart is a burnt connection at the sam.  A lot of us have added relays for the electric pump and the low beam headlights to take the load off the tiny connectors at the sam.  Here is a good thread to read about the issue.   http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/25663-sam-woes-and-how-to-cure-them/#comment-299934 

 

Nigel

 

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Mine already has the fuel pump relay mod and the electric fuel pump was confirmed to be running, so it was not the issue for sure.

Thanks for the bit on the workings of the mechanical pump, that’s some handy information to have.

After I adjust the actuator I will entertain other possibilities if the problem persists 

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