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flekker

Only start on quick start

46 posts in this topic

Did an engine swap on the smart due to broken glow plugs in the block.

New starter and alternator installed. She rolls over like it wants to start but no go.  Decided to give it a shot it booster juice and it came to life.

if I let It sit for more than 30 min the only way it would start is with the booster juice.

one started it runs flawless.

Can it be the hight pressure pump that is causing it.

if I turn it off it will start right back up again.

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Cold engine compression compare to a warm engine compression may be making all the difference...?

 

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Sounds like your glow plugs are not working. It's a bad idea to use ether if you do you should disable your glow plugs first. When ether detonates it can cause major destruction to your engine broken pistons and rings ect.

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Measure your cranking revs, your starter may be lazy.

 

Do not use any of the easystart offerings or you could end up with an engine that never starts again.

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I don’t like using ether. I just wanted to make sure that the engine would actually run.

Starter is brand new and she cranks and rolls over fine. It’s not glow plugs they all checked out fine and the temp is 29 C outside

I was thinking compression as well cold versus hot but I am not sold yet on that,

When cranking I used a noid light and it’s is intermittent. And eventually nothing at all.

I even checked power to the injectors while it’s plugged in and it is intermittent as well.

 

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Can anyone confirm the 2 red wires going to the injector 

The wires to the flat side (passenger side) all go to a 1 common pin in the computer at the air box 

The wire other wire splits into 2 wires and goes to the computer 

Can anyone confirm  it either one of these 2 wires has - or + all the time when the key is in the on position

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This make not make sense but seems to me that something is getting de energized after about 15-20 min of sitting 

I’m starting to think I have a bad computer 

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14 minutes ago, flekker said:

This make not make sense but seems to me that something is getting de energized after about 15-20 min of sitting 

I’m starting to think I have a bad computer 

SAM or ECU...?
Have you pinned out the ECU and wiring harness yet? Just to say for sure no shorts or breaks in the engine wiring harness and the fact each wire does go to the correct ECU pin..?
It took me a few hours doing mine. I don't now how to check the ECU for issues, which I also worry about. Time related issues as in cold solder connections sound like what you are speaking of and it'll be a nightmare checking over the entire ECU searching for them if you do not know what section of the circuit board controls the parts you need checking.....as in injectors etc?  Again another thought for my starting problems.
Keep us up to date on what you find and how you are diagnosing the issues, far better to openly talk about it as we all then learn and also can maybe help each other with a non-documented issue and it's solution.
I can offer up my diagrams of what wire goes where for the engine harness and ECU pins. My knowledge stops at the pins unfortunately.  I have taken mine and many ECU's apart checking for corrosion etc but have never found obvious damages as in cold solder joints as best I can remember.

Thanks....

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Wiri diagrams would be a awesome.

I meant the ECU 

already opened the Sam and soldered about 8 broken solder joints 

So far I know the engine and all related components are fine because it runs nice when started 

At this point I’m looking for a complete replacement set

ecu, Sam, instrument cluster and ignition switch 

it would be the quickest way to trouble shooting it it’s the harness or the components 

plus I don’t mind having a spare set

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I had the same issue 2 years ago and then it just started working

Can anyone confirm with ignition on what the readings at the 2 injector wires are at the injector plug 

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Not sure what you mean by bump starting 

But if you are talking about like popping the couch in gear while pushing then no.

can’t see how that would solve my injector issue unless you are thinking about something else.

It rolls over very healthy on the starter.

mall it takes is a quick shot of ether and it will run.

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Using the starter reduces the power that is available for the electronics. If it starts easily with a bump start then I would be looking for dodgy earths or voltage drops where they should not be.

 

 

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I’ll give it a shot tomorrow 

Any chance you can share some diagrams with me Willys

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1 hour ago, flekker said:

I’ll give it a shot tomorrow 

Any chance you can share some diagrams with me Willys

I'll look for them tomorrow and send pics of them to your PM...OK..?

If I remember correctly it was Wild who gave them to me....again I think he had them in a file etc....sorry not computer savy so to speak....lol
But will send you pics of what i do have printed out.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

So I swapped the cpu, Sam and ignition key and same thing 

gonna try and get a buddy over to bump start it 

I have noticed if I unplug any of the injectors while it’s running it dies.

When I try to start it again it cranks I’ve but doesn’t even try to start.

if wait a while or disconnected the msg battery terminal an reconnect right away it cranks and you can hear it trying( or it’s starts if it hasn’t been longer than 10 to 15 min )

 

Edited by flekker

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id say 250 or more...but its just a guess

 

 

more important is how even they are 

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Not even at all 

110 on cyl 1 and 2 

220 on cyl 3

This was a used engine that I bought a while ago.

I gonna pull the valve cover today and check for stuck valve, ( since it been sitting for a while)maybe I get lucky but I’m sceptical 

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Can anyone point me in the direction of where to get a rebuild kit for the smart 

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could be stuck valves or a dirty seat...or stuck rings

 

or bad head gasket between 1 and 2

 

 

lttle bit of seafoam or atf might help if you get some in the cylinders then let it sit 

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i just noticed you said it starts on quick start....did you drive it?....mine ran like crap after sitting for years but one good drive and it all came back to life 

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These are the guys I bought every part to rebuild my entire engine and car from....yes before COVID. Their shipping rates were great and their shipping times were good also. They had everything from what I remember.  They are extremely busy and have been ripped off by American owners cancelling orders just in enough time as to make them loose their products and get zero money for them. So, they are very hesitant to sell to North Americans, unless you pay upfront and they get to know you so to speak. I ordered a few parts at first then they allowed paypal etc.....as normal.  They also like to use emails and texting over speaking on the phone as they are so busy.......not something i like but it worked well.

Check them out and see....I have nothing but good things to say about them.

 

https://www.smart-ersatzteile.com/

 

Again, I have totally rebuild my good car using these guys and their parts. Every wear item has been replaced with new. A complete rebuild.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Gonna try some aft tonight 

Any suggestions on the valves incase they are stuck 

anything I can spray on them 

I already have the glow plugs and injectors out 

Edited by flekker

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