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flekker

Only start on quick start

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Possibly take valve cover off and tap the tops of each valve to see if it moves....IF they are stuck search out the best penetrating fluid on the market or try the old school recepies..?  Transmission oil was one...?   You are getting very close to where I was 3 years ago with my engine......slowly digging deeper until it was all apart...lol

Smart142 used to have a couple of rebuilt engines, maybe he still has one left?

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Engine was definitely toast. No compression.

Swapped it out for another and she starts right up.  I have a glow plug sercuit A code I have to figure out. At least now I can drive the dam thing and save at the gas pump.
Gonna order some parts from the place Willys suggested and rebuild one of the other motors I have.

Thanks for all the input and help

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14 hours ago, flekker said:

At least now I can drive the dam thing and save at the gas pump

 

lol..aint that the truth

 

i kind of regret selling my 450 back when diesel went up to $1.25

 

with the smart i used to just go for drives to relieve boredom but now i find myself actually scheduling outings in order to get many things done at once because fuel is so expensive..(my current daily is an 08 saturn vue AWD)

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In Vancouver I use to fill up for about $25.00 when the low fuel warning started flashing now $40.00 + @$2.49.9 liter some days. 70% of the people I see driving these cars are senior's in Vancouver so far basically retired people with a very limited income. To bad the 450 was discontinued it would be a really good option for retiring people to just go to the store and do daily stuff.

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7 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

 

lol..aint that the truth

 

i kind of regret selling my 450 back when diesel went up to $1.25

 

with the smart i used to just go for drives to relieve boredom but now i find myself actually scheduling outings in order to get many things done at once because fuel is so expensive..(my current daily is an 08 saturn vue AWD)

My daily driver is a 5.7 tundra 250 km daily 

still haven’t found the hole in my wallet lol

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I am toying with the idea of propane injection.

Not because I have a need for speed but for some of left turns at T section.

it’s a down hill to my right and can see far enough to my make my left turn on 80 km country rd where people go flying.

I just want to get up to speed fast enough from a stop sign. Some times I make a right and then a U Turn or make the left and pull right over to the shoulder. She just needs that little boost from a still stand to get up to speed fast enough 

Any suggestions ?

Edited by flekker

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Yeh, just get used to it.....took me a while but it works...lol
I simply think of it as a 5 ton U-Haul truck....lol.....wait for that opening...it'll come.....then think how much everyone else is spending while you wait.....lol

 

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Took her out for a couple test drive today and all was fine I took I got the gas station.

Thats when in noticed the brake light switch turns the ignition on when I apply the brakes.

Of course I’m sitting there trying to turn the car off with my foot on the brakes and it’s still running.

After doing some quick troubleshooting I found that when the key is on or off and I apply the brakes the ignition is powered up. The starter is not affected by it.

is did solder the common joints in the Sam unit and cleaned it well.

Does any one know about the fuses that plugs into the side of the Sam.

Do they have to be in a particular spot.

If I recall when checked all those pin on the side of the Sam they all had power when ignition was turned on so I didn’t bother to put the fuses back in the excavator same spot for ease of removal 

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Some of those sockets are switched. It has happed to others after reinstalling the sam. Somewhere on the site is a picture Mike T posted of those connections on the side of the sam when he did his relay mod.  I’m away with only a cell phone and poor wifi otherwise I’d try and find it for you. 

Nigel

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Nigel is correct, these fuses are keyed supposedly and only fit in their keyed spots......when you purchase new fuse holders to add more accessories to the vehicle you need to observe this or they do not fit.
The front 4 or 5 slots are keyed one way and the back slots are keyed the opposite.  One being live when key is on and the other live when off.  
Mike T made a good post showing this exactly. Search it out, it's not too hard to find it.  I stand corrected...I found MikeT's post but didn't find the SAM picture of which plugs or fuses are switched or un switched....augh....I'll search for the picture and post it if I can find it. BUT....just check with volt meter and see, simple.  Sorry....
Oh also you can't add too much load to the bank of fuses as they are all controlled by one relay or main fuse inside the SAM, and this is documented somewhere also....just another thing to consider.   That is why I add a separate fuse panel running from battery with it's own relay switched by ign.   Just to keep added power using devices away from sensitive electronics of the car.   It works for me.

 

Borrowed from Internet and Evilution....

 

https://www.evilution.co.uk/mod/700cc-450-fuse-layout.htm

 

 

Edited by Willys

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Thanks for the info guys.

I went back to one of pics I took before disconnecting the Sam.

out of 5 plugs one of them was not in the correct spot.

The purple connector, relocate it and all works as it should now.

Just for information purposes, does the brake pedal have to be depressed in order start the car.  Currently I don’t have to depress it and remember if that’s the way it always was 

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I don't need to press the brake peddle either but do if i want to change gear to get it into "N" to be able to start car. I usually never leave mine in gear when i stop the car....but sometimes it's helpful.

 

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Does anyone have an old convertible top

i am looking for a slider piece for one of the bars on the driver side 

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12 hours ago, flekker said:

Does anyone have an old convertible top

i am looking for a slider piece for one of the bars on the driver side 

 

There's a Cabrio being parted on Kijiji Red Deer AB. See if the guy will ship.

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So I had to swap out the couch actuator due to a malfunction. All Food now.

Decided to to put the summer slip rims on at the same time. Other than they look better than the steel rims, they suck.

The smartie feels like it labouring, engine is working harder and it takes longer to get up to speed.

Gonna put the steels back on.

Has anyone else experienced this 

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I put steels on my 451 five years ago. More MPG, better ride quality and better handling from the steels.

 

I have a dilemma right now. I have two set of alloys with good tyres and my steels need tyres. I keep meaning to put a set of alloys on but I know that after a week I will go and buy new tyres for the steels and stick the alloys at the back of the garage.

 

 

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11 hours ago, flekker said:

So I had to swap out the couch actuator due to a malfunction. All Food now.

Decided to to put the summer slip rims on at the same time. Other than they look better than the steel rims, they suck.

The smartie feels like it labouring, engine is working harder and it takes longer to get up to speed.

Gonna put the steels back on.

Has anyone else experienced this 

Ever think it has gone into limp mode?  Has your fuel mileage down up as in using far more fuel per hundred driven?  Low boost numbers?   Just a thought?

 

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Not far more fuel. Burning about 1/2 litre more per 100 km with my driving habits. It’s definitely not going into limp mode.

I burn about 3.4 L per 100 km driving 250km daily like a rented mule when the steels were on. With the alloys I’m getting 4 L per 100km and she is a little less peppy.

Gonna definitely swap back to the steels.

 

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9 hours ago, flekker said:

Not far more fuel. Burning about 1/2 litre more per 100 km with my driving habits. It’s definitely not going into limp mode.

I burn about 3.4 L per 100 km driving 250km daily like a rented mule when the steels were on. With the alloys I’m getting 4 L per 100km and she is a little less peppy.

Gonna definitely swap back to the steels.

 

Strange...? I don't know why steels would give better MPGs than alloys...as long as the tire sizing was the same?  I worried that going from skinnies to fat would ruin my fuel economy but it really didn't change anything....I simply watch my average/actual km per 100 and also my boost levels on my scan guage , oh and also the RPMs. I find I get the best fuel economy around the 1965 RPMs when on the flat. And yes I average the same as you daily, 3.5/100

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I can definitely feel a weight difference.

The alloys are heavier.

I gonna weigh them this weekend and compare to the steels.

 

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i suspect the steels are fairly light...i base that on how easy they get damage from potholes

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