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Does anyone around Brampton/Vaughan have access to a star diagnostic machine? My smart 450 cdi is experiencing problems and I can't locate the problem. It will not start after changing the intercooler fan. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Thanks!

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When you say does not start, not cranking or cranking but not starting?  There are a couple of common items to check.

 

Nigel

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It's cranking but no start. It seems to slightly fire off 1 cylinder during start. After I changed the fan it ran for about 5 seconds then developed a misfire. I shut the car off and now it won't start. I'm thinking maybe the harness above the intercooler got damaged after I moved it around but it doesn't look damaged. I checked fuel pressure sensor and had about 1.5v on start and drops to 1.3 ish after cranking. The makes me believe it's getting fuel but maybe injectors aren't firing? 

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Recheck all the connections, for corrosion and or bent pins, pushed in pins, and then check engine ground strap. Check the ECU plug for same, but be careful not to touch the pins unless you are well grounded etc as they will short out....best to do a visual and if you find anything take the ECU out and place on static free mat if you need to work on the pins for any reason. Ask me how I learned this.....mine shorted from all I can figure was static....fried my ECU....!!!
If it ran before you touched it....it should run again afterwards. You just need to figure out what you touched that you didn't put back correctly.....Hmmmmm....??? Again sounds familiar!

 

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Can you hear the lift pump run for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on?  If not read the following thread for an explanation of that common problem.  Have someone turn the key while you watch to see if the alternator is turning.  That is another common issue, the drag of a seized alternator on the belt will slow the cranking speed just enough to not start.

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/25663-sam-woes-and-how-to-cure-them/#comment-299934

 

Nigel

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Yesterday I removed both plugs off the ECU and didn't see any corrosion present. I even did a continuity check on the injector plugs and ECU plug without any problems. When I did the fan swap I didn't unplug anything, I only removed the intake hose between the egr and intake manifold for clearance. I also loosened and checked the engine ground and the other ground present above the intercooler, all had clean mating surfaces. 

 

I can confirm the lift pump is working by the sound and with my power probe. The pump was replaced just over a year ago too. The SAM unit is sending power to the pump also. I have checked the alternator visually and seen that it spins freely.

 

I appreciate all the help so far, thank you. 

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It may be cranking (turning over), but sometimes a low battery charge may be the simple culprit.  Try charging it overnight and try it again.

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If you have no method reading the fault codes or real time data then it is worth buying a bluetooth dongle from ebay and using Torque. It is no Star system but is getting to be pretty reliable even with Smarts.

 

Shouldn't cost more than a tenner.

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I have tried charging the battery also.The battery did get low on power after the second day of trying to diagnose the problem. Lately I have been jumping power from my other vehicle while I try and figure out what's wrong. Both the smart and my other vehicle have AGM batteries with plenty of juice it seems.

 

I do have a decent code reader that gives me OEM trouble codes and regular OBD2 codes. Nothing pops up while cranking the car tho.. Only if I unplug a sensor or something then I will get a code. I know with STAR you can test individual sensors and such but I cannot do any of those with mine.

 

I got it to run off starting fluid once, it ran for about 6 seconds (shaking and hesitating a bit) then once the alternator kicked in the rpms slowly dropped because the extra load and it shutdown again. I don't think I should keep using the starting fluid tho, whenever the engine sucks in the fluid it develops a loud knock trying to fire. Without any fluid it sounds fine.. 

 

Small car but big headaches lol

Edited by Element

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Just for shits and giggles how about taking a peek inside your high pressure fuel pump for and blown by seals?   It is easy to rebuild and the kits aren't that bad to buy. The valves at the top of the heads are like domino's , they have a spiral spring holding a small disc in place, that spring sometimes gets trapped underneath the hat hold down bracket and allows pressure past it....just a thought....and besides when was the pump overhauled last anyway? Also look at the head surface under this valve for signs of blow by....it'll be very faint like a smeer.

 

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