For two diesel

[Galaxy 0]

I just put a new EGR into my 2006 diesel fortwo and it won’t start anymore. It cranks and cranks but it won’t start. I tested the injector with noid lights but the injector don’t seem to be firing. Is there any grounds wires that would be responsible for the injector beside the egr that I could have disturbed?? Any help would be appreciated. I’m going to be looking for a wiring diagram for it tomorrow and see what I can find 

[Willys 741]

There are two main grounds on the engine besides the braided large wire that runs from the engine block to the body, one is when looking at the engine bay from the rear of the car is at the 11 O'Clock location just under the lip of the bodywork in front of the engine cover It has many grounding eyelets which need to be checked separately for corrosion. There is another that is attached to the righthand side of the head on the side cover next to the oil dip stick. 
I would also check the connection for that EGR and make sure that the pins haven't been pushed back when you re-installed it. Did you install a brand new EGR or a secondhand unit? You could plug in your old one and attach a ground wire to the body of it to see if it will allow car to start? 
Hope this helps...

[Galaxy 0]

Egr was completely replaced. I figured if I got a second one I can just take the old one clean it and let it sit until the one in it gets clogged again then switch it out

 

i took a quick look at the wires before going to work but could not visible see anything also I don’t think having the old one plugged in will change anything since I once drove it around town for 15 minutes without it plugged in(only reason I knew was because of the lack of power)

[Willys 741]

The reason it didn't have any power was it was in limp mode I imagine...? I did the block off procedure but the plug was damaged and my emulator wouldn't stay plugged in so I temporarily mounted the old clean EGR with zip ties to the wiring harness and added a ground wire to the body of the EGR and it stopped throwing a code which put it in limp mode. The computer simply wants to see the EGR working, it doesn't care if it's attached to the engine, it just needs to be able to cycle the piston in the EGR if and when it wants to.
Try it...it may solve your issue? Leave one on the engine and see if you have room anywhere to zip tie the second cleaned one and plug it in don't forget a ground cable to any ground or engine bolt..

[Galaxy 0]

I put the old egr plug in to see if it would change anything nothing has changed the noid lights light up while cranking. I check to make sure fuels going to the injectors(they are) it seems to be cranking really slow so I’m going to try warming up the engine by alternative methods and hopefully if I can get it started it can work it’s way out

 

but is there anything that would cause the engine to crank slowly. I made sure there is nothing in front of behind the turbo too

[Mjolinor 85]

Engine earth lead.

[Willys 741]

9 hours ago, Galaxy said:

I put the old egr plug in to see if it would change anything nothing has changed the noid lights light up while cranking. I check to make sure fuels going to the injectors(they are) it seems to be cranking really slow so I’m going to try warming up the engine by alternative methods and hopefully if I can get it started it can work it’s way out

 

but is there anything that would cause the engine to crank slowly. I made sure there is nothing in front of behind the turbo too

Charge your battery using a battery charger if you have one, it will be difficult to start if it's not spinning quickly. Again check all grounds....can't say it enough.....these cars are notorious for bad grounds and or corroded ground points.

[Galaxy 0]

Every time I have tired starting it it has had a battery charger on it with it in jump start mode. I started cleaning up ground wires( all of them look good)but I could not find the one with a few eyelets???

 

also when I tested the injector the light(noid lights) I plugged into them would flash very very little compared to what you would expect. First and second injector would be the ones to light up very little but the 3(right side) would not light up at all. 
 

 

Tomorrow I’m going to look for more grounds and follow the wires leading from the injector to see if somethings been eating them(unlikely because I see no signs of mice) or if somethings been rubbing into them

[Henry 40]

If the car has been sitting for awhile it could be that your alternator has seized.  

Just a thought.

Alan

[Galaxy 0]

it was sitting for 3 days before it started acting up and the only reason it was sitting for those few days was because I could not work on it for long each day. It’s almost been sitting for a week as of the moment because of this problem of not starting 

[Mjolinor 85]

If you suspect grounds then just put a big jump lead between engine and chassis (the end of the de-dion tube)

[Willys 741]

10 hours ago, Galaxy said:

. I started cleaning up ground wires( all of them look good)but I could not find the one with a few eyelets???

When you open the engine cover look at the 11 o-clock location just under the lip of the bodywork. There will be a grounding pin there with many eyelets attached to it, typical location for problems.  Have you checked the main large grounding strap which is at the 7 o-clock or 6 o-clock location running from engine to bodywork....it is that braided usually corroded useless ground wire that disintergrates when you wiggle it. You could also remove the two large connections for the ECU which is on the side of the airbox to look at the condition of the pins, I had one that had 4 corroded pins on it. BEWARE about touching the ECU side of these connections as the ECU holds a charge in it's capacitors and will fry itself if you accidentally short it, ask me how i know!  Check for the green corrosion....in all plugs etc in the engine compartment.....a long task but it will rule that out hopefully.

 

[Galaxy 0]

So far I have check all of the grounds I can see. They are almost starting to corroded but that’s only on the eyelets. All of the wires are still copper coloured 

[Galaxy 0]

What causes the injector to fire? Would it be the crank position sensors? It’s just really odd to me that I never touched any wires while changing the egr and the injector aren’t firing anymore. I’m just going to pull the egr out again and see if I can see anything 

 

 

also with the ecu do you need to get it programmed to your car or is it interchange able?? I do have a parts smart car which I can take out to put in incase it happens

Edited November 2 by Galaxy

[Willys 741]

Any of the 3 computers must be re-taught to speak with the other two or it will never run. That takes a STAR machine. You can take all 3 out as a package and install them all at the same time and it will run as long as they ran in the vehicle you took them from.

[Willys 741]

14 hours ago, Galaxy said:

So far I have check all of the grounds I can see. They are almost starting to corroded but that’s only on the eyelets. All of the wires are still copper coloured 

Check between the eyelets and not just a visual of the whole bunch as unit. I found more corrosion between the eyelets in some cases which whether or not that was the issue but after cleaning and smearing with a bit of dilectric grease things improved.....

[Galaxy 0]

I got busy today it’s work and other things but I’m back on trying to find out what’s wrong with the fortwo. I’m changing the battery and have new eyelet connectors 

 

while changing the battery I noticed a while connectors that sits beside the battery. It looks to have a little bit of corrosion(I’m going to try cleaning it up) but does anyone know what it’s responsible for?

[Willys 741]

18 hours ago, Galaxy said:

I got busy today it’s work and other things but I’m back on trying to find out what’s wrong with the fortwo. I’m changing the battery and have new eyelet connectors 

 

while changing the battery I noticed a while connectors that sits beside the battery. It looks to have a little bit of corrosion(I’m going to try cleaning it up) but does anyone know what it’s responsible for?

Is it a rectangular connector going nowhere, correct..?  Don't worry about it...just make sure it's not so corroded it could be shorting itself out...??  There is also a white connection in the battery well that corrodes that must be maintained so to speak.   Also, look for a silver cigarette sized alluminium box and check it's connections. You can also open this box up and check for corrosion, it usually has plenty of white fuzz inside it. Clean it using vinegar and a toothbrush, then recoat the entire board using clear nail polish while your wife doesn't see you steal it...lol   
You usually won't need to change the eyelets just wire brush them like new and also the ground post then apply marine grease to the pin and eyelets so it won't happen again.

[Galaxy 0]

So I change the eyelet connector, the white plug next to the battery which was corroded( I tried cleaning it but i didn’t trust it so I cut the plug and used heat shrink bud connector and just made it work……… it still continues not to run. So I said duck it and put a battery charger on with 12v 200 amps and it started right away