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modex007

Engine cuts off while accelarting hard

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Same smart cdi... diferent problems.

 

My smart 450 cdi 2003 (EU), It was starting hard in cold, leaking a litle, i rebuilded high pressure pump. Now car starts in all weather (last week it was -4F ) .

 

But when accelerating hard, engine cuts off. sometimes cuts off while driving, donwhifts for a hill and cuts off. then i stop. Turn off ignition. hear klick in the ZEE unit (it's ZEE not SAM). and engine starts again. 

engine works smooth. no shaking. nothing.

 

I checked copper wire, for ground. conectors, maybe i missed something. 

 

What could be the problem ? Angle sensor ? injectors? too much pressure and they cut off? relay ?
have no clue and don't have diagnostic tool, so now just guessing...

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I'll guess maybe the ZEE unit has issues similar to the SAM unit with cold solder pins? Worth checking? Fuel pump wiring connections, bad ground that is for pump? What about main grounding cable from engine to frame?  Just a guess as I haven't seen a ZEE...yet.

 

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As i know (searched) ZEE didn't had any issues like sam does. (I could be wrong).

 yes i checked all connectors, grounding cables. I guess it has to do something with fuel system. Because engine stall, aftee 30-40s it starts easy.

 

And it started after i made a rebuild to high pressure pump. Or it could also be a coinsidence 

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When you rebuilt your high pressure pump, what did the domino sized valves look like that sit in the heads of the pump? Look at the coil spring and how the little valve or puck shaped valve sits in it's captured cage so to speak, my springs were off to one side and didn't get the full pressure they should be getting when the coil spring was seated correctly. You can buy these valves on line, I do not remember where but they weren't that expensive for what they are. It helped my car or fuel pressure. Also check seals for leaking past them, I also lapped in the head surfaces with valve grinding compound and 1000 grit sand paper on a glass surface. I've done a few pumps this way and had zero issues afterwards.  I found the surfaces weren't always 100% flat. BUT, everything has seals so maybe it doesn't matter...? Some rebuild kits also do not supply the two larger "O" ring seals for the pump to block seal...?  I'd be going back in and making sure you didn't miss anything...just to rule it out.

 

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You are talking about these:   Bosch CP1 valve assembly F00R0P1367 Genuine Bosch - Diesel Injection Pumps

 

No, i removed high pressure pump three times, inspected. i did not polished anything. i was to afraid to polish. put all together into pre-punched place. in overal it do not look bad at all.

yesterday i removed rail pressure control valve and rail sensor, cleaned with some spray cleaners. (i have some doubts about plastic oring it was alitle dirty and "punched", (i know that there are seal kits for those valves, need to order) put all together. today i put some injector cleaner liquid into tank. will try to drive few days and then will test car on load again. Hope it helps. if no, then i will need to buy some cheap clone of ds150e diagnostic tool and do the right way :) 

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Yes those are the valves....two of mine had the little coil springs trapped beside the puck they are supposed to control and didn't have the same pressure because of that...also once i carefully removed that cage it never went back on again correctly, so I simply purchased new valves problem solved.

 

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I removed fuel pressure valve again, testes with connecting to 12v. Nothing happens. And its stays closed.  As far as my reaserch goes it should be open, and when 12v connected just then it should close. Ordered new one, will check. I think its a problem :)

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Still at the same possition. Changed rail pressure sensor, and regulator (bought from scrapyard), made a injector leak test. one injector was toasted and leaking badly. Replaced with used one also. Car starts like a champ. no vibrations. work good. but still remaining the problem when accelerating hard, engine cuts off. (as i understand fuel supply shuts down) after 30s relay of fuel pump clicks again. and car starts. if driving slowly everything is fine. I'm lost. left to change fuel filer. but it was changed year ago, i don't think it's the fuel filter.

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What about fuel relay...?  maybe that is the weak item in the list?   Can you bypass it, I haven't done this yet but have bypassed the SAM to protect it from getting too hot and installed the relay mod. Mine also is a 2005 CDI.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I doubt... i think it started after High pressure pump seal kit replacement. I will try third time, take apart smart and pump, polish all pieces this time, check those springs, and hope it will be ok this time. 

 

Pump not leaking, so maybe there are internal return issues

Edited by modex007

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When you rebuild the pump there are two seals in each hole correct IF I remember right, they are different....one is made of different material....or different thickness...????   Do you have another pump off a running car you could swap out for?  Just to see if it is the pump?  This is how I am trying to solve my issue, swapping out each piece of the system with a known good running part from my daily driver but so far no luck. I have changed everything from one car to the other one piece at a time. The last part is the electrical harness as a whole.  Do you have this capability? OR can you buy a second pump and see from a wrecker...?  

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Ok, here my fix.

 

Removed high pressure pump, every flat part polished with 1500 and 2500 grid. On a flat glass. And all is good for a week now. Can floor my diesel. No stalling. No diesel leak. 

Finally

 

So it was pump surfces problem.

 

And cold start problem was one bad injector 

 

:)

 

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Old school refinishing works every time...lol.
What was the issue with the injector, leaking or bad nozzles?

 

 

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It s

Was leaking so bad, that in 30s it filled almost 60ml syringe :) :) :)

 

Nozzles also cleaned with some carb cleaner. Pattern was all good :)

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