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      [IMPORTANT] Club smart Car Website Migration - July 2024   07/07/2024

      Hello everyone, we will be looking to migrate the Club smart Car website to a new web host and update the software so that it is on the latest version and has security features such as HTTPS:// which is now the industry standard. A lot of web browsers are marking the website as Not Secure due to this.   In the coming days, you may notice this website go offline in its current form. You will be redirected to a new website URL which will be in use to direct you to the new version of the website. We are hoping to obtain the ownership of clubsmartcar.ca and clubsmartcar.com so you can continue using these links in the near future.   The new forum will look slightly different aesthetically, but will contain all the forum posts from the many years this community has existed! This was the most important to the group looking to keep the community going. Your usernames and passwords will also remain the same.   Unfortunately, the Wiki portions (including the VIN database) will not be able to be migrated in its current form, but the list is preserved and we will look to have the information available again in time. The chatbox will also be removed.   This step is important for the continuity of this community. We are very grateful to those who have graciously run the website in the past, however, currently we have no guarantees of the website continuing on, so we are taking these steps while we can, to keep Club smart Car going into the future.   If you have any questions, please comment in this thread. Otherwise, please stay tuned for the new website URL!   Thank you, -Awesys
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MikeT

Serpentine belt tensioner

11 posts in this topic

Contacted my M-B dealer for a quote on some work for the car and they indicated that my hyper noisy serpentine belt tensioner is no longer available for the 450 cdi. That's rather surprising, as parts were reputed to be available for M-B and smart for a.....LONG time....

 

Anyway, does anyone have experience with a decent aftermarket tensioner, and if so, what is the brand and where did you get it?

 

TIA

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10 years is sort of normal, agreed by most manufacturers. It is 17 years since your car stopped production and the diesel 450 was a rare beast.

 

I would have thought the 451 would fit. Do you have a picture of it? I have a spare 451 engine in my shed I shall go and take a picture later if you don#t find proof.

 

 

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There are tons of various brands available online, so getting one will not be a problem; however I'm just surprised that Mercedes apparently has no stock. It used to be said that you could get 40 year old Mercedes parts no problem. Maybe that was the old days.

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3 hours ago, MikeT said:

It used to be said that you could get 40 year old Mercedes parts no problem. Maybe that was the old days.


And if the part was out of stock they would air freight it next day from Germany.

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IMHO, MB wants nothing to do with us any longer and have priced their parts accordingly....and why would they if you think about it......we are a dying breed......plus the number of Smarts still running on the road is reducing by the bucketful year after year...?

 IF we want to keep our cars for a very long time then it's up to us to buy the parts that are wear items and make sure that when we do need them we don't have to scrap our cars because we can either afford the parts or can't find them...

 

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I’ve always tried to stick with the brand Febi. Their quality is fairly consistent.

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Idler pulley arrived from my German friend today. Supplier is OEM and maybe the part number on the box will help others when they need one.

smart 450 idler pulley.jpeg

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The next big question will be.....how much tension does one put on their belt?  How do you gauge the tension? Do you measure the distance of flexation? OR is it a capable twist amount once tight?
Too much tension applied to your system will simply prematurely destroy your bearings.

What are the recommendations....?

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The bearings are shrieking now so it may well be too tight.....mind you, 179K km....

 

I'll use common sense and have the dealer tension it using the tool at the upcoming suspension change.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

As a rule of thumb the middle of the longest run should be able to be pushed sideways about half an inch. I usually do it by rotating it in the middle of the longest run. If you can rotate it about 1/4 of a turn then it is good enough.

 

It is way better slack than tight. If ti is slack it will wear out the belt and squeal, if it is tight it will bugger up your bearings.

 

Edited by Mjolinor
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4 hours ago, Mjolinor said:

As a rule of thumb the middle of the longest run should be able to be pushed sideways about half an inch. I usually do it by rotating it in the middle of the longest run. If you can rotate it about 1/4 of a turn then it is good enough.

 

It is way better slack than tight. If ti is slack it will wear out the belt and squeal, if it is tight it will bugger up your bearings.

 

This is the method I generally use, twist the belt to see if it's at "E" flat like a guitar string and loosen it to a slight twist as suggested above. IF I can twist the belt to a sideways position I'm good to go. 
V belts are a bit different imho, you simply push the belt in the longest stretch and get just more than the width of the belt in deflexion....seems to work for me. 
I also agree anything that pings when you flick it is way too tight and will eat your bearings in hurry.

But to each their own....it's an easy task once you are happy with what you are hunting for. Tension wise.

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