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Aha! Pin 9, a bad address line. Pin 9 is the most significant bit of the 3 bit address line which means that the chip was looking at only the sequence of inputs, 0, 1, 2 and 3 and not 4, 5, 6 and 7. The turn signals are looked at in sequence on inputs 5 and 6 and weren't being recognized.
Congratulations. Nice work!
You mentioned that you had replaced connectors N11-8 and 9. Amazing!
On my car I had a corroded and broken pin on one of these connectors which meant that I had no horn.
I was able to push an unused pin out of the connector and replace the corroded one.
Thanks for reporting back. It's gratifying that the issues that I had with my car were to be of some help.
For what it is worth, I cleaned all the dirt and debris under the rubber molding at the bottom of my windshield and applied a thin GE silicone windshield sealant. Even if the windshield isn't leaking, there is a possibility that condensation accumulates on the wiring harness and wicks down into the SAM.
I also placed a sponge between bundles of the wiring harness above the SAM and sprayed the connector pins with a cleaning and lubricating agent such as DeoxIT.
Four years later, parked outside, exposed every day to a Canadian environment and no problems.
Hey smartdriver...sorry for my late answer. I checked the connectors above and also changed the second 74HC151 multiplex chip. After that, I checked all connections again and noticed that one pin of the first multiplexer chip was not soldered correctly. (see picture, red arrow)
I cleanded the whole circuit board with alcohol and put the SAM back in the car.
Everything is working now left indicator, right indicator, engine, ....
The water-damage was caused by a leaky glass windshield (Frontwindow)....which I have to change the next few days.
Thank you so much for your help
Just put down $2K deposit on 2017 Smart ED coupe.
$3K in options
Black panels with "electric green" tridion $200
LED lighting $700
Pano roof $390
touch screen $1600
arm rest $125
Car is currently in Halifax awaiting certification.
Estimated delivery is end of September.
The Smart loyalty discount was quote as $500 (it used to be $1000).
Dealer first offer is a discount of $2K on top of loyalty (I consider this a "starting place" for negotiation).
Ontario rebate is $13K
Trade in quote for 2013 Smart ED with 25000 km is $8500.
Looking at ~$12K on the road for trade - up.
If it's worth $8500 for trade in 4 years from now, that's $3500 to drive 4 more years.
Not as good a deal as I intend to finally negotiate, but it's a stake in the ground for now.
Figured I had better put down my deposit for one of the first coupe's off the boat to reserve my place in line.
This car was the highest optioned of the list of cars for this dealer.
Not as highly optioned as I would have personally spec'd, but the color is what I wanted.
For reference, I've gone in to three dealers and priced out new cars:
2017 Nissan Leaf would only be $2000 more than the Smart over a 4 year period, as Nissan has significant discounts, and Ontario rebate is $14K (5 seat cars get the full rebate).
2017 Chevy Volt would be $4000 more than the Smart over a 4 year period, with dealer willing to budge only $1000 on MSRP.
Decision is made easier because we prefer the looks and go-cart driving characteristics of the Smart vs Leaf, and don't want to use gas and dislike Chevy corporate politics (anti-Tesla).
My plan B is a used BMW i3. There's one on auto trader for $23K, which is probably $6K to drive over 4 years (after trade in and factoring in $3K of out of warranty repair/maintenance), reasonably attractive, but I prefer an in-warranty car for peace of mind. I like the looks of the i3, and the performance is way above the Smart. It's an option. I've got a few months...