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It seems that this forum is the default go to forum for just about anything and everything, including topics best kept elsewhere, since we have a forum for most every topic.... But alas, place it here I guess - it's not likely to get kicked out... LOL!
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No need to guess, I have a low-ish mileage clutch arm right here. Now I can see the exact radius of curvature they used in both sockets, it isn't constant.
(Don't worry, eventually I'll stop posting shots of 3D scans and CAD files and start posting pics of actual machined parts, but since this is the start, this is what you see first!)
More to follow soon on this little fix. Could save all of you quite a bit of time and money fixing your smarties! By the way, if you are thinking of modifying your actuator, please wait!
Damn another SAM with messed up circuits! Everyone and I do mean EVERYONE who has not already preventatively done the external fuel pump and headlight relay modification should do so pronto.
Someone else can answer your question but I think there is a workaround someone developed.
I think I have a solution for this problem that can be done in-situ that will last the life of the vehicle.
As many of you know, I've been working quite a bit on transmission & clutch actuation related items on this car lately and I didn't want to invest the time in an external clutch actuator until I solved this ball socket wear problem.
I'll post pics of the new design shortly. I have a high precision CNC lathe here so I can whip these up like hotcakes.
- Quick question, and this is important to my design: Is Anyone's actuator anywhere near the limit of travel in the bolt slots AWAY from the bellhousing? Both of mine here are near the middle. Middle or closer is perfect, further and I need to know. I would think MB can hold close enough tolerances that everyone is in the same ball park. I assume as it needs to be adjusted over time it keeps getting closer to the bell housing right? Please let me know if you know!
GOT 'ER RUNNING!
So I checked the SAM again and on close inspection the #10 pin looked a little round and the clip was a bit toasty so it probably wasn't making proper contact or worst, arcing. I stripped off the casing on # 10 wire a couple of inches from the clip like Tolsen said. There is a clip where they attach the wires to the clip. Put the voltmeter on and BINGO no power with ignition on 1 or 2. I used a 20 amp fuse I had hanging around, a spade clip and some wire and slipped it in a switched slot on the SAM. Then cut the # 10 wire where they clip it together and wired it to the hot wire I just put in the switched slot. Now when I turned the ignition I had power to the wire and I could hear the pump. Turned 'er over a few times and it ran like a champ.
So it looks like "Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade" to the rescue again.
Thanks to Tolsen for the help and Cadillacman for the great animation explaining the fuel system.
I'll go to MB and get the proper fuse holder and clips and clean up my work but at least I know what it is and the car is running again.
So now I have SAM with a crappy connection to pin 10 so I bypassed it with a switched hot wire and it works as proof of concept.
Now I've been looking at the Fuel pump Relay upgrade and it presumes that the 10 pin is intact which mine is not.
Can I continue to run like this with power straight to the fuel pump or will I fry something because I think I'm basically bypassing the relay, no?
To answer the question about just swapping transmissions: The transmission the car has now is a manual transmission in every way. No need to change it, it has the right ratios, right clutch, everything. Just need to take the actuators off and put "adapters" on it to allow direct mechanical control, that is what I'm doing.
I'm going to finish the shifter and pedals tonight hopefully, but I'm stuck on the shifting actuator. I'm getting prices back on all the purchased parts, the external unit will automatically increase the whole price of the kit by at least $250.
I'm trying to keep the cost of such a kit down because I know Smart car owners, especially the cdi group, are very conservative with their pennies (nickels now I guess?)
Another question for all of you:
Which matters more to you? Lightest and best performing package at the expense of having to drop the transmission, split the cases and install the kit or,
Higher cost, bolt on solution at the expense of more inertial resistance while shifting but hopefully much less labor cost to install. To be honest I've never tried to drop just the transmission alone with the engine in the car, I assume you still have to drop the engine/transmission assembly to do this, just to get access to all the bolts around the bell housing? Any time I've worked on my smarts I just drop the subframe. I don't want to assume most owners are comfortable with doing this.
Once I finish the pedals and shifter I'll need to decide before cutting metal. I personally don't mind pulling the transmission and going that route, but I want to run with whatever most people would want to go with.