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@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) (like copper or aluminium)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) I'll try with something hard, but not as hard as steel
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:42 PM) tolsen has posted about it before. Personally I thought a couple hours of tinkering was time better spent elsewhere, and the $50 for the tool well spent
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) you need a hardwood, soft won't do
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) no worries, got the idea
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:40 PM) the hole being the exact size of the rod, not the disc. Sorry about the syntax
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:39 PM) A wooden clamp would work well. Drill a hole in a wooden disc the exact size of the strut rod's diameter, then cut the disc in half and add flats
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:13 PM) leather is too soft, as is rubber. I was thinking about either copper wire wound around the strut or tinfoil. and a vise Grip
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:11 PM) An old leather belt might work better, but I had no luck with it
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:10 PM) (I was thinking about a vise grip and tinfoil. you know, tinfoil is aluminum, and can potentailly protect the shock, and a vbise grip is FAR more useful than the clamp, but this is me trying to Mcgiver a solution, as usual...)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) ah, ok, then
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) The strut spins freely, you need the special clamping tool to provide flats for a big open ended wrench (with this tool 47 mm)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Can't I use LOTS of wd40, a t47 bit and a breaker bar?
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:01 PM) The strut clamp is a necessity. Worth every cent I paid -- making something similar myself would have taken me more time than I'd like to spend in order to save the few bucks.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:00 PM) c'mon! I'll use twine. And optimism.
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 01:59 PM) I honestly didn't need them on the broken spring, and while handy for the lowering springs, not necessary.
@  dmoonen : (27 August 2015 - 08:06 AM) Spring compresssors are still needed. .Tolson why must you take the hard way to everything
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 03:59 PM) nah, the springs are broken, and I can use the ye old zip-tie trick. But since I'm going to put eibachs (-25mm) I won't worry.]
@  tolsen : (26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM) Clamp type spring compressors should not be used since the damage both protective coating and spring.
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) The spring compressors you can borrow at Canadian tire
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) I have the Mercedes strut clamp you can borrow just pay shipping and if you break it you buy it. Pm me
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 08:51 AM) thanks, guys! And... does anyone in Vancouver area have the clamp so I can "rent"?
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:43 PM) To and from SK*. I'm just waiting on some bits to finish the Golf build
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:41 PM) Still driving it, drove it to and from and average 4.7l/100l loaded to the brim.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 06:19 PM) Dillen how much did you end up getting for the wagon?
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:13 PM) And if replacing the plastic bellows (dust boots) on the struts, cut a good 1.5" off the bottoms of them or they'll just compress around the stops and get in the way of the clamp tool
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:11 PM) also, take a new knife blade and cut about an inch off the bump stops unless you love bottoming out on small bumps.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) wont need it for the Eibachs
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) If the springs are broken at the top as suspected, the spring compressor might not be necessary.
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:49 PM) And a normal spring compressor
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Strut clamp tool*
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Lots of penetrating oil on the top nut and see if you can borrow a strut tool of you don't have the proper air tools
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:08 PM) Now, let's see if I can replace them without getting myself killed...
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:07 PM) Got the Eibach springs!
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 12:29 PM) Lol
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) ok, maybe MikeT
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) Who doesn't? Hehehe
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 07:46 AM) sounds like you have a decent to do list. .
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 08:00 PM) Perhaps even throw a set of powerflex purple bushings, and a set of 16" "space" wheels, but not now...)
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) ( I WILL replace the entire control arm, with all 4 ball joints, drop links, all the upper bearings and a nice set of B8s. But not now. Maybe by December, when I get money for that...
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:57 PM) Nah, the steering damper is fine (I was worried about that too), and actually, the bearing is not bad, its just the pad that is glazed.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) also check your steering damper. If the damage is already extensive, good chance the damper has bled out like mine had
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) but honestly if you are removing the control arms, you may as well replace the other parts. Use the Evilution or FQ guides, and add in tolsen's tips about reversing the BJ bolts, and using SS bolts and nuts if possible.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:04 PM) The right bearing might turn out to be a seized caliper or delaminated pad...
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 09:20 PM) I lifted the car today, and upon inspection, I saw that the ball joints and the drop links are fine. The bushings are probably busted (they are noisy and rough), and the right bearing is heavy and noisy. I couldn't see if the springs are broken or not, but both top collars are loose. (I'll trust CANMAN on that one). But I was getting ready to replace ALL ball joints, drop links, control arms, shocks...
@  Francesco : (22 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) So who was it that told you all that stuff was kaput? I seem to remember being puzzled about how extensive your list was
@  CANMAN : (22 August 2015 - 06:52 PM) Because both springs are broken at the top.
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) Oh, and the right bearing is kaput.
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) I finally lifted my smart. And to my surprise, both front springs, shocks, drop links and ball joints seem to be in good condition! What are NOT good are the top collars. Neither springs are sitting on them. How come?
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Hi, smart owners

Photo

won't go into gear


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15 replies to this topic

#1 promoz

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 05:47 PM

I just got a 2004 (yesterday) I parked it about 2 hours ago. I was going to drive it some more just now, and it won't go into gear. Instead of "R" it says "O" WHAT'S UP WITH THAT??? Please Help.Thanks!Joey (In Tulsa, Ok)

#2 bilgladstone

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 06:00 PM

I just got a 2004 (yesterday) I parked it about 2 hours ago. I was going to drive it some more just now, and it won't go into gear. Instead of "R" it says "O" WHAT'S UP WITH THAT??? Please Help

Hi Joey,

The O means the transmission is not properly in a gear. Switch off, then put your foot on the brake, switch to 1st position select N and start the car. With your foot on the brake, select 1 or R. Off you go!

Easy to forget at first that you must have foot on the brake.

HTH

Bil :sun:
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#3 promoz

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 06:14 PM

THANKS BILL!I AM NOW ROLLIN'! WELL... AFTER I SHUT MY MAC NOTEBOOK. I TRADED MY 1975 AUSTIN MINI DELIVERY WAGON FOR THIS 2004 SMART AND HOLY COW, I DONT' THINK THEIR COULD BE ANY MORE "COOL" STUFF THAT THESE CARS COULD HAVE.THANK YOU!JOEY

Edited by promoz, 23 August 2008 - 06:54 PM.


#4 yolanda

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 06:37 PM

Oh I can't tell you how often this one has tripped us up! The worst is when I slip into my old habit of putting her in neutral at stop lights, then forget to hit the brake before going back into gear. there's me panicky fiddling with the gears and brakes while the impatient troglodytes behind me start leaning on their horns. For the record, around here they honk you if you're less than a second late going at the light.
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2006 diesel passion smart car. Purchased Jan 25, 2008 Dealer Demo
Blue with silver. Interior grey with black leather seats and wheel.
Panoramic roof, heated leather seats and side mirrors, mp3 aux on stereo, cup holder, power windows and mirrors, tach and clock pods, candy dish fashioned to look like an ashtray, passion alloy rims, air conditioning, "dancing" foot-well lights, spare 12v "always on" accessory plug, custom fabric privacy cover.
Vanity plates "Iris 42," stereo bluetooth plug-in for mp3 player.
LiteGlow undercar LED color changing, music responsive, remote controlled novelty lighting kit, self installed.
Currently tarped with a damaged front left and damaged panels from a fender bender that totalled her. Parts car standing by for spring.

#5 promoz

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 07:03 PM

WELL... I'VE ONLY HAD MY SMART FOR 1 DAY AND ALREADY PULLED OVER BY THE POLICE. THE FUNNY THING IS... I WAS PARKED. HE HAD TO CHECK IT OUT FOR HIS WIFE.

#6 bilgladstone

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 07:41 PM

Haha! get used to it, Tulsa. And welcome to the wonderful world of smart!B :sun:
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#7 SmartieParts

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 08:44 PM

I was born in OK! Interestingly enough, now I live in the Okanagan, often abreviated OK (never thought about that till just now).A 2004... neat. Curious what kind of a price point those are going for in the states now that the 2008's are available. At one point, the '03 to '06 imports were going for $30 to $40k. - Steven
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#8 Fred J

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 08:50 AM

Yolanda - When you are stopped or moving slowly in Neutral, you don't need to put the brake on to engage First gear . . . . just tap the shifter to "+". That way you don't annoy the car following by coming to a stop again and saves looking like a novice driver.

#9 yolanda

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 10:28 AM

Yolanda - When you are stopped or moving slowly in Neutral, you don't need to put the brake on to engage First gear . . . . just tap the shifter to "+". That way you don't annoy the car following by coming to a stop again and saves looking like a novice driver.

It's a 2006 so neutral is actually a slide sideways and to get it in gear again you have to slide it to the left. I have this habit (quickly vanishing) of putting my automatic into neutral, because my last couple of beaters had trouble idling in gear. They'd run rough and sometimes even stall, and the creep meant sitting on the brake. So I learned to put the car into neutral (a slide to the right in the case of my rabbit) then into gear, and on those cars you didn't need to hold the brake when going into gear. In the smart 450, however, the car puts itself into neutral when sitting on a light, and until you apply the accelerator pedal, stays in gear, but clutch let out (neutral) without needing to brake on a level surface. However, if you do move the lever to the neutral position (to the right) you will have to put your foot on the brake before moving it into reverse (back one) or gear (to the left). then it's a tap forward or backward to move through the sequential gears. As I understand it, the 451's gear system is distinctly different, more more similar to conventional north american automatic gear shifts.
Iris:
2006 diesel passion smart car. Purchased Jan 25, 2008 Dealer Demo
Blue with silver. Interior grey with black leather seats and wheel.
Panoramic roof, heated leather seats and side mirrors, mp3 aux on stereo, cup holder, power windows and mirrors, tach and clock pods, candy dish fashioned to look like an ashtray, passion alloy rims, air conditioning, "dancing" foot-well lights, spare 12v "always on" accessory plug, custom fabric privacy cover.
Vanity plates "Iris 42," stereo bluetooth plug-in for mp3 player.
LiteGlow undercar LED color changing, music responsive, remote controlled novelty lighting kit, self installed.
Currently tarped with a damaged front left and damaged panels from a fender bender that totalled her. Parts car standing by for spring.

#10 Mike T

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 12:17 PM

To clarify: the 450 does not go into neutral unless you shift it into neutral. At a light it stays in gear with the clutch disengaged.

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet, FlyingTiger map 380023_5.png
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#11 Fred J

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 01:58 PM

To clarify - My interpretation was that the driver had manually put the car into "N" at the stop light i.e. moved the shifter to the right. When the light changed to green she then put the shifter to the left without having the foot brake on, assuming the transmission would be in "1st". Then the "panicky fiddling" (her terms, not mine) with the transmission shifter and the brake pedal began. At that point a simple tapping of the shifter to "+" would engage the transmission without any "panicky fiddling". No brake pedal required. Mike is correct that when the car downshifts to 1st at a stop, the transmission is in gear and the clutch is engaged and running on the throw out bearing rather than being in actual neutral. Same as holding the clutch pedal down in a conventional clutch set-up.

Edited by Fred J, 24 August 2008 - 02:00 PM.


#12 Mike T

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 07:59 PM

Right, I think that covers all the bases!

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet, FlyingTiger map 380023_5.png
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A and Winter packages 542252_5.png
2008 Mercedes-Benz B 200 5 speed, other goodies 206221_5.png
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#13 Francesco

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Posted 25 August 2008 - 05:08 AM

Well, just to throw my 2¢ into this: I've never had a clutch fail on any of my manual cars, and my habit was to sit at lights in first with my foot on the clutch. We're talking cars with over 100,000 Kms on them (one had 320,000). That said, I don't understand the need to pop the fortwo into N at a light, unless you are in a 451 and detest the "creep," or know how long a light is and wish to turn off the engine. Even so, I'm with Fred J on this: if you're at a light in Neutral, just move the lever back to the right. Your foot was on the brake anyway, wasn't it? The only reason it would be "jiggly-fiddly" would be if you're doing things you shouldn't be doing.
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#14 promoz

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 06:57 PM

I was born in OK! Interestingly enough, now I live in the Okanagan, often abreviated OK (never thought about that till just now). A 2004... neat. Curious what kind of a price point those are going for in the states now that the 2008's are available. At one point, the '03 to '06 imports were going for $30 to $40k. - Steven

THIS ONE WAS GOING FOR 21K (6 SPEED TURBO)

#15 Speedie

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 09:38 PM

Promoz - sounds like you didn't get an owner's manual - here is one for the european gas model - much the same - hope it helps - Fortwo owners manual Save it to a file - so I don't get clobbered for bandwidth usage if you access it a couple hundred times. Cheers, Cameron
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#16 promoz

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 09:56 PM

Promoz - sounds like you didn't get an owner's manual - here is one for the european gas model - much the same - hope it helps - Fortwo owners manual Save it to a file - so I don't get clobbered for bandwidth usage if you access it a couple hundred times. Cheers, Cameron

No. I have one. I only had my smart for less than a day when I posted this. I was like a little kid at Christmas with a new toy, and I wasn't using my brain. I also own a VW Jetta and you have to do the same for it. I just don't drive it to often. I like drive my 70's muscle(s)... and my smart, OF COURSE! But Thanks for the link. I know the guy I got this one from has another "Euro", so I will send this info to him. (just in case). Thanks! JOEY - TULSA, OK.




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