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@  Mike T : (29 August 2015 - 07:33 AM) I've no idea! Sorry, I rarely went there anyway. I think they had "issues". Driving to Banff today in the rain in prep for a 290 km bike ride from Jasper to Banff. Cheers
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 11:24 PM) Ah. Just found Martin's tweet from January, but its link is dead so I have no details of why the club was dissolved
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:49 PM) Hey Mike, what happened to CsQ? I haven't logged in in over a year, but it seems the lights aren't on...?
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:39 PM) keep you eyes on the classifieds here, SCoA and CsQ, as well as Kijiji. Deals on rims pop up from time to time.
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:36 PM) and yes, you'll find even with a one inch drop there is plenty of arch gap. I'm -1.25 in the front and -1.4 out back and it could go lower (but would drive balls). I hate the useless stanced look.
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:34 PM) Figure a good $1400 or more to your door.
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:33 PM) Ouch. The shipping will be more than the (discounted) 19% VAT, and then you'll likely get a collect bill from Canada Post for GST/PST and duties.
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:15 PM) I found these: http://www.rs-parts....r-smart450.html
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:15 PM) Question: With the lowered springs (Eibach, 25mm), can I still put a set of 16" on my limousine?
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:14 PM) I'll see what I can do...
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 08:56 AM) Check with Fast Eddy to see if he'll rent you the correct tool for cheap.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) (like copper or aluminium)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) I'll try with something hard, but not as hard as steel
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:42 PM) tolsen has posted about it before. Personally I thought a couple hours of tinkering was time better spent elsewhere, and the $50 for the tool well spent
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) you need a hardwood, soft won't do
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) no worries, got the idea
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:40 PM) the hole being the exact size of the rod, not the disc. Sorry about the syntax
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:39 PM) A wooden clamp would work well. Drill a hole in a wooden disc the exact size of the strut rod's diameter, then cut the disc in half and add flats
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:13 PM) leather is too soft, as is rubber. I was thinking about either copper wire wound around the strut or tinfoil. and a vise Grip
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:11 PM) An old leather belt might work better, but I had no luck with it
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:10 PM) (I was thinking about a vise grip and tinfoil. you know, tinfoil is aluminum, and can potentailly protect the shock, and a vbise grip is FAR more useful than the clamp, but this is me trying to Mcgiver a solution, as usual...)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) ah, ok, then
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) The strut spins freely, you need the special clamping tool to provide flats for a big open ended wrench (with this tool 47 mm)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Can't I use LOTS of wd40, a t47 bit and a breaker bar?
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:01 PM) The strut clamp is a necessity. Worth every cent I paid -- making something similar myself would have taken me more time than I'd like to spend in order to save the few bucks.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:00 PM) c'mon! I'll use twine. And optimism.
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 01:59 PM) I honestly didn't need them on the broken spring, and while handy for the lowering springs, not necessary.
@  dmoonen : (27 August 2015 - 08:06 AM) Spring compresssors are still needed. .Tolson why must you take the hard way to everything
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 03:59 PM) nah, the springs are broken, and I can use the ye old zip-tie trick. But since I'm going to put eibachs (-25mm) I won't worry.]
@  tolsen : (26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM) Clamp type spring compressors should not be used since the damage both protective coating and spring.
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) The spring compressors you can borrow at Canadian tire
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) I have the Mercedes strut clamp you can borrow just pay shipping and if you break it you buy it. Pm me
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 08:51 AM) thanks, guys! And... does anyone in Vancouver area have the clamp so I can "rent"?
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:43 PM) To and from SK*. I'm just waiting on some bits to finish the Golf build
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:41 PM) Still driving it, drove it to and from and average 4.7l/100l loaded to the brim.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 06:19 PM) Dillen how much did you end up getting for the wagon?
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:13 PM) And if replacing the plastic bellows (dust boots) on the struts, cut a good 1.5" off the bottoms of them or they'll just compress around the stops and get in the way of the clamp tool
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:11 PM) also, take a new knife blade and cut about an inch off the bump stops unless you love bottoming out on small bumps.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) wont need it for the Eibachs
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) If the springs are broken at the top as suspected, the spring compressor might not be necessary.
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:49 PM) And a normal spring compressor
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Strut clamp tool*
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Lots of penetrating oil on the top nut and see if you can borrow a strut tool of you don't have the proper air tools
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:08 PM) Now, let's see if I can replace them without getting myself killed...
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:07 PM) Got the Eibach springs!
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 12:29 PM) Lol
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) ok, maybe MikeT
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) Who doesn't? Hehehe
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 07:46 AM) sounds like you have a decent to do list. .
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 08:00 PM) Perhaps even throw a set of powerflex purple bushings, and a set of 16" "space" wheels, but not now...)



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5 replies to this topic


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Posted 01 September 2009 - 04:56 AM

Hi EveryoneI had a engine warning light come on yesterday.Scan gauge says...FRZD??I called Victoria Star Motors in Kitchener (only because I was in the area ) and the "tech" said that that didn't mean anything to him and I needed to bring the car into them and leave it overnight.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$I wasn't going to do that and be 2 hours from home...so checked the oil, water and drove home with no problems.Any thoughts on this code? I'm hoping just an O 2 sensor or???Thanks.James

#2 MightyMouseTech

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Posted 01 September 2009 - 04:59 AM

Something funky is going on because that is not a proper code.
Christopher "Mighty Mouse" C.

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Posted 01 September 2009 - 05:06 AM

I was afraid you were going to tell me that!The scan gauge would also stop reporting L/ 100 Km and speed but still show water and intake air temps.....if you shut it off for a while everything starts out as normal with no engine light showing up ?????James

#4 Huronlad

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Posted 01 September 2009 - 05:28 AM

I would guess it is some sort of bad connection. Remove the cable from the car and disconnect the other end from the SGII, check to make sure the connections are clean and reinstall.

"Kalliste" 2005 Bay Grey Pure, tach/clock pods, panoramic roof, a/c, soft touch, ignition free windows, vertical wipers, Euro turn signals, LED fog lights, LED turn signal side marker lights, Scanguage II, LED interior light, LED license plate lights, LED reverse lights, LED high brake light, UWC wheel covers, tinted windows, Wet Okole seat covers with carbon fibre heaters, under seat drawer, EBC brakes and rotors, Eibach and Boge suspension, Stebel air horn.

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#5 strawboss

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 06:58 PM

According to the SG manual FRZD stands for "freeze data" & will appear with "codes" below "# codes found"on the SG screen, check pages 7 & 8 of the manual for a description of PIDs which appear to give the trouble codes more definition.

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#6 2seatragtop

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 07:28 AM

Thank goodness for this forum.Just had the engine light come on on the way to work together with FRZD on the scanguage.The scanguage had been disconnected last week during my cruise control debacle.Perhaps it had not been properly reconnected.I disconnected it and engine light remained ON.Reconnected scanguage engine light ON.Cleared codes on scanguage Engine Light OFF.Drove to work with no recorrence of the light.Here's hoping it was just a bad connection.I'll keep watching!2seat
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