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Restrictor Plug


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#1 tolsen

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 12:53 AM

The restrictor plug addresses a design flaw with the cooling system. See my thread on Winter Thermostat from post 26 for further details. The plug fits all Smart ForTwos with OM660 Mercedes engines. Does not fit Smarts with Mitsubishi engine. The plug will also fit the OM160 petrol engine but probably no significant gain as the thermostat fitted on this engine already has a restrictor built in.

Price CAD 26 incl p&p (small packet airmail - not tracked).
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Below photo shows the restrictor plug on the left.
Plug shown is an earlier version with smaller bore size. The plug fits in the V shaped branch piece (shown on right) in the radiator bypass line from thermostat housing to coolant pump.

Posted Image
Kindly note that the V shaped branch piece on the right is not included. The restrictor plug fits in the upper branch of above V shaped branch piece. There is one of these V shaped branch pieces already in your Smart so please note that you don't need to buy one of them.

Posted Image
Above photo shows the restrictor plug (current version is near white in colour as normally turned out of white nylon bar) fitted into upper branch of V shaped branch piece.

Posted Image
Kindly be advised that the EGR cooler which is fitted to Canadian specification Smart cars, is not shown in above diagram.

The plug creates a small back pressure, thereby slightly increasing pressure in thermostat housing. The small pressure increase is sufficient to make the check valve* fitted in the thermostat disc seal positively so loosing less valuable heat when engine is cold and warming up. Flow through heater matrix is increased as well so higher heat output and warmer cabin. The check valve in the thermostat will wear over time mainly due to vibration causing increased leakage through check valve. The restrictor plug will increase service life of thermostat since the higher pressure differential will keep check valve hard up against its seat causing less wear due to vibration.

* The check valve is simply a piece of brass fitted loosely in a hole drilled in thermostat disc.
Posted Image
The main reason why check valve does not seal is due to the orientation of the thermostat on the engine - thermostat is sitting on its side and not horizontally which is more common in engines. The brass check valve therefore sits at an angle and does not seal against its seat unless there is a small differential pressure accross the thermostat. Smart could have corrected this design flaw by fitting a check valve made out of a plastic material having neutral bouyancy in the coolant.

Important Notice.
The restrictor plug relies on a fully functional thermostat. I recommend you test your thermostat before fitting this device or one you have made yourself.
Posted Image
The branch where water trickles out goes to radiator. The branch that is sealed by my thumb goes to heater matrix. The branch to the right, which is partly hidden, is radiator bypass. This branch goes to cooling pump.
The thermostat shown is brand new and leaks a wee bit, which is normal and main reason why the engine takes a long time to come up to operating temperature. Try sucking or blowing hard on it. It should seal. Suck from the barb that connects to radiator hose. Blow from other side while keeping other required openings sealed. Replace the thermostat if yours does not seal when sucking or blowing hard.

You need to slightly drop engine and subframe to gain sufficient access to fit the plug.

There is info about development of the plug on the Canadian Club Smart Car forum. Post no 49 is worth while reading.

There is information about the special "Clic" hose clamps on OnSmart forum.
I recommend you reuse the existing high quality Clic hose clamps but you will then need a special "Clic" compatible fitting tool. Alternatively use good quality stainless steel Jubilee clamps.

Hose clamp diameters:
V-piece at water pump 33 mm.
Thermostat outlet to radiator 33 mm.
Thermostat outlet to heater matrix 22.5 mm.
Thermostat outlet to V-piece 27 mm.


Now is the time to fit the plug if you wish to enjoy a cosy Smart when temperature gets lower.

There are three items of important maintenance you can easily carry out same time once you have partly lowered engine and subframe to get access for installation of restrictor plug:

1) Starter motor. The spade type connector to solenoid is open to the elements so prone to bad contact and failure to start. I recommend you clean the connector and apply some protective non conductive grease such as white grease, battery pole grease or Vaseline.

2) Hand brake equaliser mechanism. The mechanism will rust and seize up resulting in hard hand brake lever. Keeping the mechanism wetted in grease is good preventative maintenance. You can also open out the complete mechanism and overhaul it, see thread on OnSmart forum for details: http://forum.onsmart...;p=26279#p26279

3) Support cradle for intercooler. The version up to late 2006 eats and cuts into lower part of intercooler resulting in leakage and costly repairs. See post on OnSmart for details: http://forum.onsmart...php?f=13&t=3070

Note regarding Gates thermostat: Gates TH40390G1 thermostat is very poorly made and both its disc and check valve do not seal. The restrictor plug will therefore not improve the performance of the Gates thermostat.

Edited by tolsen, 11 February 2014 - 01:39 PM.


#2 Francesco

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Posted 19 February 2010 - 05:54 AM

Fantastic work, TK!

Just a note to others: the V-shaped diverter is available at Canadian MB dealerships on back-order from France or Germany for $20.50. However, it isn't necessary to perform the mod, though I did order one in case my ten thumbs screw something up (as usually happens). Once I get my plug in, if anyone needs the V-piece for whatever reason, I'll send it for $20.50 including FedEx (to anywhere in Canada that FedEx delivers without a surcharge).
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#3 Mike T

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 08:32 AM

Yes, brilliant! I might be interested in one for my green car!
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#4 strawboss

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 11:25 AM

I've ordered mine. B)

2005 450 cdi passion blue w/power sunroof ,Softtouch transmission, ignition free power window conversion. Custom seat covers;"Poorman's push button start";Kofangar-Lasse's "450&1/2" font panel mod , euro front turn signal conversion w/led side blinkers,spin on oil filter adapter, SGII, Roadster wheel package W/ Moon wheel covers, AGM battery, after market TPMS, self installed clock & tach package, JVC stereo head unit,Full EGR delete w/emulator,120V space heater w/timer,TK Olsen's coolant restrictor plug, Willgoose's GT SS Exhaust,S-mann SS valance; Windshield wiper blade washer jets, Led angel eyes , under seat drawer; Self installed Webasto coolant heater.

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#5 Francesco

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 12:31 PM

Me too! :excited:
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#6 zrwon

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 01:44 PM

The restrictor plug addresses a design flaw with the coolant system. See my thread on Winter Thermostat from post 26 for further details. The plug fits all Smart ForTwos with Mercedes engines. Does not fit Smarts with Mitsubishi engine.

Price CAD 20 incl p&p to contributors to above thead.
CAD 30 incl of p&p to other club members.

Please contact me by email.

Below photo shows the restrictor plug on the left.
Plug shown is an earlier version with smaller bore size. The plug fits in the V shaped branch piece (shown on right) in the radiator bypass line from thermostat housing to coolant pump. The plug creates a small back pressure thereby slightly increasing pressure in thermostat housing. The small pressure increase is sufficient to make thermostat seal positively so loosing less valuable heat when engine is cold and warming up. Flow through heater matrix is increased as well so higher heat output and warmer cabin.
Posted Image
Please note that the V shaped branch piece on the right is not included.

Do you have to remove it in the summer or would you say leave it year around?
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#7 Francesco

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 01:56 PM

It will improve the cooling system's function both winter and summer.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#8 bilgladstone

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 02:58 PM

I will get one for sure. If there are smarties in the Lower Mainland (BC) getting one too, I am looking to get together for an installation workshop since I cannot tackle it by myself, though I can certainly assist. Okanagan VQA wine on offer!Bil :sun:

Edited by bilgladstone, 20 February 2010 - 03:00 PM.

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#9 smartzuuk

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 01:35 AM

I should get two of these.
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#10 bilgladstone

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 01:42 AM

I should get two of these.

Yeah... Let's do a group install one they get here, man! I asked Eddy and he has declined to do this work, so it's a D-I-Y.

Btw, I do not begrudge Eddy declining - he is very particular about what he supplies and installs, and this is not a field-proven mod over enough seasons to be 100% certain of the results.

Bil :senile:
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#11 Francesco

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 12:41 PM

Mine arrived today! It is very well turned. Nice work, TK!Unfortunately, because I've never "dropped" the engine and have a few other items to take care of while the car is in the air, I'd like to dedicate a whole day for this.... meaning unless I find someone to work for me this weekend, it will have to wait for next Tuesday or Wednesday to go in.
Francesco

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#12 tolsen

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 01:02 PM

Mine arrived today! It is very well turned. Nice work, TK! Unfortunately, because I've never "dropped" the engine and have a few other items to take care of while the car is in the air, I'd like to dedicate a whole day for this.... meaning unless I find someone to work for me this weekend, it will have to wait for next Tuesday or Wednesday to go in.

It was posted on 19th so took 7 days to arrive. I am still planning to make a proper installation procedure on pdf but this has been delayed due to recent heavy snow falls. There has been chaos on the roads in Aberdeenshire for about 3 days. Nobody, except me use snow tires here. They say they can't justify the expense something I've never understood. The councils are running short on salt. Last year they had to resort to table salt. Dont drop engine and subframe too low on port side. Ensure the ABS cables and brake hose do not get over strethed. Same applies to the airduct inside the wing. I suggest you remove port tail light and check the ducting when you lower.

#13 strawboss

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 02:51 PM

It was posted on 19th so took 7 days to arrive. I am still planning to make a proper installation procedure on pdf but this has been delayed due to recent heavy snow falls. There has been chaos on the roads in Aberdeenshire for about 3 days. Nobody, except me use snow tires here. They say they can't justify the expense something I've never understood. The councils are running short on salt. Last year they had to resort to table salt. Dont drop engine and subframe too low on port side. Ensure the ABS cables and brake hose do not get over strethed. Same applies to the airduct inside the wing. I suggest you remove port tail light and check the ducting when you lower.

I was thinking of pricing the long bolts that MB would use or buying some long machine screws of my own as long as they're the proper grade/strength,I'm guessing the entire assembly shouldn't be more much more than 2 hundred pounds or so?

2005 450 cdi passion blue w/power sunroof ,Softtouch transmission, ignition free power window conversion. Custom seat covers;"Poorman's push button start";Kofangar-Lasse's "450&1/2" font panel mod , euro front turn signal conversion w/led side blinkers,spin on oil filter adapter, SGII, Roadster wheel package W/ Moon wheel covers, AGM battery, after market TPMS, self installed clock & tach package, JVC stereo head unit,Full EGR delete w/emulator,120V space heater w/timer,TK Olsen's coolant restrictor plug, Willgoose's GT SS Exhaust,S-mann SS valance; Windshield wiper blade washer jets, Led angel eyes , under seat drawer; Self installed Webasto coolant heater.

100_0569-1.jpg

An Airedale standing beside a chauffeur & Rolls Royce.....may give the impression that he's there by choice.
95 Tacoma 4wd (with "just a few" mods), 2011 8x8 Argo, 60 year old 7.5 hp 800 lb antique Lister stationary Diesel


#14 tolsen

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 11:47 PM

I was thinking of pricing the long bolts that MB would use or buying some long machine screws of my own as long as they're the proper grade/strength,I'm guessing the entire assembly shouldn't be more much more than 2 hundred pounds or so?

The original Smart lowering pins (part number 450 589 00 62 00) do not cost that much, about GBP 30 in the UK.
Posted Image
Bolt lengths not including washers are 26 cm and 30 cm. Thread size is M12 x 1.5. Grade 8.8.
Home made bolts made out of mild steel or low grade 4.6 will do the job. The bolts do not need be this long to get access for fitting the restrictor plug. I used the shorter bolts and packed them 9 cm with wooden washers. You can lower engine and subframe without these lowering pins. Place the long subframe bolts in the forward holes and use wooden bars, sticks or studs as supports in way of rear holes.

Edited by tolsen, 26 February 2010 - 12:08 AM.


#15 strawboss

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 07:32 AM

That is handy information thanks. :)

2005 450 cdi passion blue w/power sunroof ,Softtouch transmission, ignition free power window conversion. Custom seat covers;"Poorman's push button start";Kofangar-Lasse's "450&1/2" font panel mod , euro front turn signal conversion w/led side blinkers,spin on oil filter adapter, SGII, Roadster wheel package W/ Moon wheel covers, AGM battery, after market TPMS, self installed clock & tach package, JVC stereo head unit,Full EGR delete w/emulator,120V space heater w/timer,TK Olsen's coolant restrictor plug, Willgoose's GT SS Exhaust,S-mann SS valance; Windshield wiper blade washer jets, Led angel eyes , under seat drawer; Self installed Webasto coolant heater.

100_0569-1.jpg

An Airedale standing beside a chauffeur & Rolls Royce.....may give the impression that he's there by choice.
95 Tacoma 4wd (with "just a few" mods), 2011 8x8 Argo, 60 year old 7.5 hp 800 lb antique Lister stationary Diesel


#16 Francesco

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 04:30 PM

Mid-installation progress report, hopefully with tips for those [neophyte backyard mechanics like me] who will do this soon :) :I decided I could not wait to do this, as this afternoon saw the fairest weather in several weeks -- +4°C and sunny! AT first I had planned to use TK's engine-lowering technique but I wouldn't be ready before the sun went down so I dove in. This is the biggest thing I've done to my smart, and although many of you are very good at these things, I'm better with theory than practice. I warned my neighbour that if he sees me at his door later, in tears, he should know why. Heheh.Because I have to be up at 3:00 am for work, I am now pressed for time before I must head to bed. So to dive in, I put both ends of the car up on jack stands. I quickly gathered some tools and started the compressor. Off came the rear panels, I then began to discover problems that perhaps won't plague those on the west coast of Canada, or perhaps in the UK: we are bombarded with road salt from October through April, and after almost three winters, the various bolts are seized solid. The amount of greasy crap hiding under the arches is also shocking. First hurdle: In order to lower the car, you need to remove the right side arch liner; I was going to do the belts at the same time while this is all out. Well, I had a devil of a time getting the liner out! I came back inside to check Kane's directions, which are dead simple. Nonetheless, it took me an inordinate amount of time to wrench the stupid thing out. I drained the coolant, which is messy, but easy. I know I didn't get it all out, as I only ended up with about 2 L in the catch pan and maybe another pint or so on the floor.Seeing the clock move, I decided to use the Evilution cheat for lowering the engine. The horizontal bolts on the X-member at E-18 and the nut on the back of the bushing is 18 mm. Use a box wrench (ring spanner) on the nut as there's no room for anything else. The vertical bolts are E-16, as are the bolts on the engine mount. Take up some weight with a jack under the bell housing then remove the bolts on the right engine mount. Slacken those on the left a few turns, then gradually lower the jack while keeping an eye on things. I could now clearly see the "V-diverter" which led to....Problem 2: there really is very little room to work down there using Evilution's cheat. The engine drops about three or four inches, so small hands and bendy tools would be handy. The problem is exacerbated if you have air conditioning, as my car does. Use a long-bladed #1 or #2 flat screwdriver and pop the hose clamp nearest you. Reach in and "unwrap" it all the way around to remove it. Then the only way I could figure out to get the hose off the diverter was to reach in and use my fingertips to peel it back as best I could. I checked the inner bore of the diverter for rough edges; if you find it sharp, try to de-burr it with an emery cloth so as not to damage the plug's o-ring. Put a new hose clamp on and back it away from the end of the hose -- I believe I used a 40 mm SS clamp. The hose goes back on easily. Position the clamp and orient the screw so that you can get a straight shot at it with a nut-driver. I don't have a bendy nut-driver, so I used a regular one and wedged my hands in and around it to tighten. It looks sufficiently snug.Now I'm taking a break, but all that's left is filling the coolant and bleeding the system, then putting the car back together and tools away. Report number 2 coming in a bit. I checked my belts and they look new and are perfectly tensioned. I'll keep the spares under my seat where they've been for the last 20,000 Km! I wish I had more time to clean up under the panels, but that will have to wait for another day. Maybe tire-change day.
Francesco

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#17 bilgladstone

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 04:46 PM

Way to go, Francesco! :clapping: You are a brave fellow to start a job like this when you have be ready to go to work at 3am!

We'll be interested to hear how the restrictor works for you tomorrow. And I will be interested to learn how easy or difficult you find it to refill and burp the coolant system.

Uh... I don't suppose you had time for pictures, eh? :whistle:

Later then.
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#18 tolsen

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 05:03 PM

Timbuktu for me if it does not work. Lowering the engine with subframe is a whole lot easier so I will post a detailed procedure or link to a pdf file to show how that is done. Should have done that much earlier, the only problem is the heavy snow in the shire at this time. Have a read of my wintry post with snowy pictures on the Smartz forum: Smart meets Unimog the Snow Monster. I confirm I had 3 blobs thoughout this trip while running fan on full blast.

#19 Francesco

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 07:01 PM

I agree, the Full Monty drop would have made the actual task easier. What I gained in speed to drop just the right side of the engine three inches, I lost in struggling with the tight confines. Bil, I'm not sure of *any* of what I was doing! I thought I might have to use the ring spanner on a nut inside the subframe for the vertical bolts of the crossmember, so I decided to remove the crash bar. Guess what: the six bolts holding the crash bar to the frame were seized. Of course, impatient me, I doused them all with WD40, and didn't wait long enough. Result? stripped the torx head on one of them (the right valance-dangler). Great. I tightened the rest back up, and after putting the car back together, my rear panel rattled around like crazy. After my test drive, I put a 3/8 washer in the vise and filed it into a horseshoe. Then I hammered it into the gap. Seems to work. ;) Next time I go for service, though, I'll have to tell them, and pay some labour to get it out. Ugh.As far as bleeding the system, same deal: I think I did it OK. I didn't remove the nose and the car was level when I drained the system, so all I did was put the drain plug in hand-tight, leave the temp sensor out, and drop just the rear wheels to the floor. I put a funnel into the expansion tank, and added 50/50 until I heard trickling under the engine. Next I slackened the drain plug, and it flowed freely. Tightened the plug, added more antifreeze, then put the sensor back in. Started the engine and fast-idled for five minutes (to 36°C), then topped up to the bottom of the tab -- I *think* that's the right level, as I can't see any "MAX" or "MIN" marks. Closed it up, lowered the front end, went for a quick run around the block, maybe five minutes at low speeds. ScanGauge showed 62°C in that short time (+1° ambient)! Checked the level one last time, and I'm now headed for a shower and bed.I'll check the warm air outlets on my commute in the morning to see if I have an airlock (the jug of coolant will be in the boot), and will take care of it later on if I have to.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#20 Speedie

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 09:52 PM

If you strip a torx - the fix is simple - get a dremel with a small cutoff disk- cut a slot in the head to fit a blade type screwdriver - get an impact driver(type you whack with a hammer) with the right sized bit - the advantage to this is it firmly beds the bit in so you don't get cam out and stripe the head.Works wonders on frozen fasteners - and if you use it on torx head you will rarely strip them out as the bit will drive to the bottom for maximum bite. Also make sure for torx tools that you buy a good set - the cheap ones seem to be really bad for chewing the heck out of the head. If there is no plastic near the frozen bolt - get a propane torch - concentrate the heat on the head then give it a shot of penetrating oil - makes getting them out in one piece a whole lot easier. WD40 is okay but there are better penetrating oils on the market.Some one should come up with an engine drop kit - thing that fits on the jack like a transmission fixture and some guide studs. I know on the old air cooled VW's it was often easier to drop the engine out than fight your way in to the bit that needed fixing. Cheers,Cameron
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#21 Francesco

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 12:28 AM

Are any of the "good" penetrating oils available to mere mortals? The only ones I see locally are WD and Liquid Wrench. I know Neighbour has good stuff. Sounds like something to take care of before next warranty service.When I got the other five bolts out, I noted that along with the corrosion there was plenty of blue Loc-Tite. I believe the last time the crash bar was off was when they changed my fuel pump in July 2007. Do they really use Loc-Tite on the crash bar bolts? Why?
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#22 tolsen

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 01:54 AM

The best penetration oil is diesel fuel. WD 40 is too thin, evaporates quickly and is gone before it has made any effect. Apply copper slip on any bolt that is exposed to the elements and prone to corrosion. This is particularly important with the two small Torx bolts that hold rear valance to the two drop down brackets.

#23 Speedie

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 09:06 AM

Real penetrating oil has a bunch more stuff in it than diesel or WD 40 (mind you in Europe with all the enviro restrictions - you probably can only get water as a penetrating oil) including sometimes carbolic acid (still have tools that smell of it afer a can spilled in my car tool box). Do a google on the product name plus MSDS to find out what is in them.Go to NAPA or another auto store and ask - there are several brands - in the US PB Blaster seems to be a good one - not sure if they have it up here. Just don't get it on any plastic or rubber (i.e. seals). Think Wurth and a few others make professional products as well. They use Locktite to keep the fasteners from vibrating out - Diesel tend to shake rattle and roll even properly torqued fasteners out (See discussion on glow plugs and the nifty tool that vibrates as the torque is applied). A shot of heat loosens Locktite too as it is a cyanoacrylate which is quite heat sensitive (just don't breath the fumes).You can use any sort of Anti-sieze - the copper stuff is good - regular stuff is good - marine type is better (doesn't wash out). For the fasteners with Locktite - if you never-sieze them - make sure you check them once in a while - Locktite will act as a sealer too to prevent corrosion - just make sure you give them a love tap with the impact driver (hand held one you hit with a hammer) to break them free first.Cheers,Cameron
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#24 Francesco

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 11:02 AM

My usual commute this morning (I won't detail what that entails, though I've done it here before). Same driving and weather conditions as yesterday (before the mod): bare and wet, 0 C, stiff head wind. I leave early enough that I don't have to deal with any traffic, and most of the lights are on timers, which I have memorized. I tried to drive the same as yesterday -- I always hit the same cruising speeds. Note that I do not rev very high on my short commute, and amble along at ~65 Km/h. Yesterday, I had the block heater plugged in inside the garage (ambient 9°C), and the coolant temperature started out at 22°. It still took 2.2 Km to light the first blob (40°), and it topped out at 56°. Heat from the vent was not very noticeable until about 45°C. Today I didn't have it plugged in. Leaving the garage (ambient 9°C), the coolant was up to 12° before the ScanGauge even lit up. 40° came at 1.5 Km, 60° at 4.2 Km, and it topped out at 74°C. I was somewhat surprised that it did not get up to 80. The heat output from the vent was noticeable about 30° and was hot verging on very hot by 60. I may have an airlock, but without the thermostat opening, I'm not sure; the coolant level is still at "MAX".Tomorrow I will take the car out on the highway for a test.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#25 tolsen

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 12:15 PM

Hi SameGuy.I think your test result looks pretty good especially since speed appears to be no more than 65 Km/h.How long is your commute?Level road or undulating?Also what speed is heater fan at? (I run mine at intermediate untill I get 3 blobs)Do you run with electric heater on or off?I've found engine heats up faster with electric heater on as it puts more load on engine (steels approx 2 Hp). Coolant system will self bleed to some degree but perhaps you should bleed once more just to be sure. Please give me those details I asked for above and I'll do some tests on mine so we can compare.Cheers,TK

#26 Francesco

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 12:24 PM

How long is your commute? 15 Km, of which the first ~3 Km is stop signs and red lights, then a ~5 Km steady cruise, either highway or parallel service road (I go 65 on the service road) followed by 7 Km of surface streets.

Level road or undulating? Mostly level, with a very gradual climb and descent over the 5 Km segment, maybe 60 feet change.

Also what speed is heater fan at? (I run mine at intermediate untill I get 3 blobs) Intermediate.

Do you run with electric heater on or off? Off. I'll try it with the electric booster tomorrow.

Edited by SameGuy, 27 February 2010 - 12:24 PM.

Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#27 tolsen

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 05:02 PM

I will try to simoulate your commute in the morning. My gut feeling is that I will get same result as you. The restrictor plug does not generate heat. All it does is increase pressure differential over the thermostat to make it seal positively thereby less or no loss of valuable heat to radiator. The bonus is increased flow through heater matrix hence higher heat output.I did some simplified heat balance calculalations on the engine a few days ago. I only considered specific heat capacities of major parts and fluids. No allowance was made for heat loss by convection to air from engine surface:At half load, 0 C ambient temp, heater fan off, engine will get up to 80 C in 5 minutes. With heater fan on full blast engine will get to 80 C in 10 minutes. The warm up time will be halfed at full load. My calcs assume there is no leakage of warm coolant to radiator.Same calcs done at 1/3 load and engine does not reach operating temperature. Engine does not produce sufficient heat at lower speeds so impossible getting up to operating temperature.

Edited by tolsen, 28 February 2010 - 12:14 AM.


#28 Dang

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 01:08 AM

Going back to high school mechanics, so may well have this wrong, but.......I thought all thermostats allowed "some" coolant to flow through the rad, even when closed? If I recall, it's to prevent coolant shock. You start your car at -40c, so the coolant of course is at -40c. The engine starts to heat up. Once it's gets to the point where the thermostat opens, let's say 30c, you now have -40c coolant hitting your +30c engine. That's super hard on the metal, especially for aluminium. It's like pouring ice water over an overheated engine, which the old manuals warned you not to do as well as it could crack things.The idea of the letting some of the coolant flow through the rad was to slowly bring the temperature up on the coolant in the rad while still restricting most of the flow so the engine heats up faster. This help prevents the shock when the thermostat opens.Am I missing something?Thanks! Dang

Edited by Dang, 28 February 2010 - 01:10 AM.

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#29 tolsen

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 01:43 AM

I have not experienced any coolant shock or sudden and rapid drop in engine temperature when thermostat opens.
The thermostat opens slowly - it does not work like a switch. There is still some minor flow of water through thermostat with restrictor plug fitted. See post 49 on Winter thermostat for 0.8 Cdi Engine.
What happens when thermostat starts to open is this: Hot coolant from thermostat flows to radiator. Cold coolant flows out of radiator but mixes with hot coolant returned from heater matrix thereby increasing temperature of coolant before entering V piece at coolant pump. At this point the coolant temperature is increased further because it is mixed with hot coolant from radiator bypass pipe.
Summary: Ice cold coolant from radiator is mixed twice with hot coolant before entering engine.
Having a system diagram in front of you will make it a lot easier to understand the workings of the cooling system.

Edited by tolsen, 28 February 2010 - 01:49 AM.


#30 tolsen

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 05:42 AM

My usual commute this morning (I won't detail what that entails, though I've done it here before). Same driving and weather conditions as yesterday (before the mod): bare and wet, 0 C, stiff head wind. I leave early enough that I don't have to deal with any traffic, and most of the lights are on timers, which I have memorized. I tried to drive the same as yesterday -- I always hit the same cruising speeds. Note that I do not rev very high on my short commute, and amble along at ~65 Km/h. Yesterday, I had the block heater plugged in inside the garage (ambient 9C), and the coolant temperature started out at 22. It still took 2.2 Km to light the first blob (40), and it topped out at 56. Heat from the vent was not very noticeable until about 45C. Today I didn't have it plugged in. Leaving the garage (ambient 9C), the coolant was up to 12 before the ScanGauge even lit up. 40 came at 1.5 Km, 60 at 4.2 Km, and it topped out at 74C. I was somewhat surprised that it did not get up to 80. The heat output from the vent was noticeable about 30 and was hot verging on very hot by 60. I may have an airlock, but without the thermostat opening, I'm not sure; the coolant level is still at "MAX". Tomorrow I will take the car out on the highway for a test.

I did a test run under similar conditions to your 15 km commute: Ambient temperature and coolant temperature at start 4 Centigrade. Heater fan on intermediate speed. Electric heater switched on. Drove 3 km in urban area at 45 km/h max speed, then proceded along a level A road at 65 km/h in cruise mode until 3rd blob appeared. 40 C after 2.8 km. 60 C after 7.2 km. 80 C after 17.5 km. The engine won't produce sufficient heat when going this slow, hence reason why engine does not get any quicker up to operating temperature. How did you get on when testing on the motorway?

Edited by tolsen, 28 February 2010 - 05:44 AM.


#31 tolsen

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:46 AM

I suggest a standardized procedure to test the effectiveness of the restrictor plug:

A. Engine warm up.
Start from cold noting outside ambient temperature.
Run car to nearest open high way at slow speed with heater fan on full blast (ensures the engine stays cold).
Make sure 2nd blob is not indicating or park somewhere and let engine cool down until 2nd blob does no longer indicate before starting the test.
Switch heater fan to intermediate speed.
Heater lever to max and Cdi owners switch on electric heater.
Run along a level highway at constant speed of 50 mph (80.5 km/h) in 5th gear.
Note distance for 3rd blob to appear measured from appearance of 2nd blob.


B. Heater matrix air temperature.
Heater lever to max, electric heater switched off and fan to max speed.
Air to be drawn from outside - not recirculated.
Direct airflow to central grill.
Vehicle speed and gear same as specified in first test described in [A] above.
Measure air temperature out of central grill once engine is up to operating temperature with 3 blobs indicating and 5 minutes or more after switching fan to max speed.


Posted Image

It may be advisable to do above test a few times before and after fitting the plug.

Revised 1 March 2010. Reason: Initial procedure was unworkable. Added 5th gear.
Revised again 6 March 2010. Deleted time measurement. Added air temperature out of heater matrix.

Edited by tolsen, 06 March 2010 - 12:17 AM.


#32 Francesco

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 12:17 PM

The engine won't produce sufficient heat when going this slow, hence reason why engine does not get any quicker up to operating temperature.
How did you get on when testing on the motorway?

But it is impressive how the extra flow through the heater core gives a significant boost to the the cabin heater's output!

I did not have a chance for an extended romp on the motorway this afternoon (and icy roads at 3:45 am precluded any nonsense on the way to work), but I did blend into traffic at 110 Km/h for the 5 Km segment. With a tail-wind and frequent lifting due to traffic vagaries, the temperature quickly climbed to 77° before I had to slow for my exit. At the rate of climb I saw, it would have reached 80 just a few metres after my exit. Tomorrow I'll do a more thorough test.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#33 bilgladstone

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 02:50 PM

I am as motivated by the potential increase in fuel economy (greater engine efficiency) for us short-trippers as by the quicker cabin heat. Also interested in more efficient summer cooling as added bonus.
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#34 Francesco

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 11:11 AM

I'm pretty sure it does help the engine get up to operating temperature quicker, but I am certain it enables my engine to get to a higher temperature on my particular commute. Whereas I never saw more than 60° on my morning drive with air temperatures at freezing, the last two days it go into the mid-70s -- almost operating temperature and definitely more efficient than mid-50s.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#35 tolsen

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 11:49 AM

Please try the revised standardized test procedure described in post 31 so we can get some data. The initial procedure turned out to be unworkable. 1st blob indicated miles before I made it to an open road and I had to let engine cool for nearly 30 minutes before I could set off. Just measuring the time and distance from 2nd to 3rd blob to indicate should be sufficient to verify the effectiveness of the restrictor plug.
It would be nice to get data from Smarts without the plug as well.

I did a test run this afternoon. Result:

Ambient temperature +4C. Speed 80 km/h along level dry open road. Negligible wind. Heater fan on intermediate speed. Heater lever to max and electric heater on.
Time and distance for 3rd blob to appear (measured from appearance of 2nd blob): 3 min 36 sec. 4.8 km.

Edited by tolsen, 01 March 2010 - 11:52 AM.


#36 Francesco

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:02 PM

I will try the revised test procedure in about 30 minutes. Most roads nearby are either 50 Km/h limit (traffic flows at between 60 and 70), or the 100 Km/h limit motorway (with traffic at 100 to 125). I know of a long-ish stretch of 50-limit service road that is not monitored by the police and I can safely (if not legally) go 80.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#37 tolsen

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:15 PM

I will try the revised test procedure in about 30 minutes. Most roads nearby are either 50 Km/h limit (traffic flows at between 60 and 70), or the 100 Km/h limit motorway (with traffic at 100 to 125). I know of a long-ish stretch of 50-limit service road that is not monitored by the police and I can safely (if not legally) go 80.

I did not think of such problems and restrictions. Perhaps we could change the suggested constant speed to suit Canadian conditions and highway regulations?

#38 Francesco

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:53 PM

Well, they vary by region. I'm in the suburbs of a major metropolis, while others may have rural highways right outside their front doors (usually 80 or 90 Km/h limits). The closest such highway I have is about 15 Km away. :)
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#39 tolsen

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:05 PM

A second test run using standardized test procedure described in post 31:Ambient temperature -1C. Speed 80 km/h along level dry open road. Negligible wind. Heater fan on intermediate speed. Heater lever to max and electric heater on.Time and distance for 3rd blob to appear (measured from appearance of 2nd blob): 5 min 6 sec. 6.8 km. First test result was better but done at ambient temperature of +4C. Conditions otherwise the same but different road:Time and distance for 3rd blob to appear (measured from appearance of 2nd blob): 3 min 36 sec. 4.8 km.

#40 Pingu

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:13 PM

Tolsen - to ensure standardization, what gear are you using?
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#41 tolsen

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:24 PM

Tolsen - to ensure standardization, what gear are you using?

Auto. It will be in top gear (6) since I'm riding along a level road. I wonder why there is such an increase in warm up time with only 5 C lower ambient temperature. Engine is only cooled by heater matrix and the higher coolant flow (with restrictor plug fitted) makes it possible to drain more heat out of engine. I will repeat these tests whilst running heater fan on low speed.

#42 Pingu

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:33 PM

My smart only shifts to 6th in auto at nearly 100 km/hr. At 80, it would be well under 2000 rpm. What rpm do you have at 80 km/hr?
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#43 tolsen

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:39 PM

RPM at 80 km/h? Approx 1750 RPM I think. Please note that mine is a Cdi.

#44 Pingu

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:42 PM

Thanks. Yes, I realize this is CDI.
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#45 tolsen

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:53 PM

Thanks. Yes, I realize this is CDI.

I shall change the standardized test procedure again and go for 5th gear. Is there anything else I have not considered?

#46 Francesco

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 02:40 PM

Well, traffic wasn't ideal on the stretch I used, so I ended up going to a little-used connector road (with AWFUL asphalt). I had to let the engine cool. Unfortunately, I had to slow once to a crawl for about 20 seconds to pass a stalled car, so my results here are probably not accurate. 5°C air temperature and no wind. Fan at intermediate, heat on full with the booster. Cruise set at 80 (GPS), and 5th gear except for dropping all the way to 1st and back up during the break (temperature dropped from 76 to 74 over those 20 seconds/200 metres). Overall, it took a 3:07 to reach 79°C, but an agonizing 1:13 more to go from 79 to 80° and the third blob to light. Distance covered was 5.3 Km.I will try this on the motorway during the wee hours of the morning on my way to work from Wednesday on, when there are very few cars and plenty of room for them to avoid me while I go 80. Weather is forecast to be dry and right around the freezing point for the next several mornings.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#47 Francesco

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 02:49 PM

Note that this "standardised" test is good for providing a wide base of empirical comparisons, especially if people can perform it a couple of times before and after installing the plug. But truth be told, my objective real-world observations of the engine temperatures (and the subjective difference in the amount of heat being blown into the cabin) along my regular route to work prove to me that this is a successful and worthwhile modification.

Edited by SameGuy, 01 March 2010 - 02:51 PM.

Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#48 tolsen

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 11:02 AM

Hi there,

I've done another test. Have compliled all standard tests carried out so far in below table. Please advise any errors.
Posted Image
All of mine were done in auto. Need to get that sorted soon since I ought to comply with my own test procedure.
Pancake flat roads around Banchory are as scarce as hen's teeth.
Profile of the section of the road that goes slightly uphill is like this:
Posted Image
The last 250 m is level and not as steep as shown. That part of the road is cut into the terrain and not picked up by the path profile feature in my electronic map software. Max height difference is 35 m.
I think we don't need to measure the time. Time can be calculated based on distance driven and speed.

Edited by tolsen, 02 March 2010 - 11:07 AM.


#49 Francesco

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 11:07 AM

I'll leave for work a half hour early tomorrow morning -- so, 3:20 am! -- and run at least one if not two tests, depending on how long coll-down takes. Yesterday 75 to <55° (second blob to go out) took ten minutes. I can repeat this same run several times over the next few working days (I work at the weekend).
Francesco

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#50 Francesco

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  • Location:West Island of Montreal

Posted 02 March 2010 - 11:58 AM

I am pleasantly amazed at how well this works!I just ran out to the shops for a minute. It is +3 and sunny right now, so I opened the roof to the roll-bar, put the fan on medium and heat on max (boost). By the time I left the neighbourhood and hit the main street (1.6 Km) the ScanGauge was at 40° and there was noticeable heat coming from the dash. A further 2 Km in stop-and-go to the shop and the open-top cabin was cozy warm as the coolant temperature climbed to 70!

Edited by SameGuy, 02 March 2010 - 11:58 AM.

Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||




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@  autocrash : (01 September 2014 - 05:42 PM) high beams, all the time, no compromise!
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@  Francesco : (30 August 2014 - 01:06 PM) me too. diY
@  Francesco : (30 August 2014 - 01:06 PM) After work, maybe. Oh, dYi. Carry on! ;)
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@  FlossyTheSmart : (28 August 2014 - 10:59 AM) Excellent, although I see the category listing must show the original author, rather than the person who last edited it.