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@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) (like copper or aluminium)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) I'll try with something hard, but not as hard as steel
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:42 PM) tolsen has posted about it before. Personally I thought a couple hours of tinkering was time better spent elsewhere, and the $50 for the tool well spent
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) you need a hardwood, soft won't do
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) no worries, got the idea
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:40 PM) the hole being the exact size of the rod, not the disc. Sorry about the syntax
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:39 PM) A wooden clamp would work well. Drill a hole in a wooden disc the exact size of the strut rod's diameter, then cut the disc in half and add flats
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:13 PM) leather is too soft, as is rubber. I was thinking about either copper wire wound around the strut or tinfoil. and a vise Grip
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:11 PM) An old leather belt might work better, but I had no luck with it
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:10 PM) (I was thinking about a vise grip and tinfoil. you know, tinfoil is aluminum, and can potentailly protect the shock, and a vbise grip is FAR more useful than the clamp, but this is me trying to Mcgiver a solution, as usual...)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) ah, ok, then
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) The strut spins freely, you need the special clamping tool to provide flats for a big open ended wrench (with this tool 47 mm)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Can't I use LOTS of wd40, a t47 bit and a breaker bar?
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:01 PM) The strut clamp is a necessity. Worth every cent I paid -- making something similar myself would have taken me more time than I'd like to spend in order to save the few bucks.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:00 PM) c'mon! I'll use twine. And optimism.
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 01:59 PM) I honestly didn't need them on the broken spring, and while handy for the lowering springs, not necessary.
@  dmoonen : (27 August 2015 - 08:06 AM) Spring compresssors are still needed. .Tolson why must you take the hard way to everything
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 03:59 PM) nah, the springs are broken, and I can use the ye old zip-tie trick. But since I'm going to put eibachs (-25mm) I won't worry.]
@  tolsen : (26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM) Clamp type spring compressors should not be used since the damage both protective coating and spring.
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) The spring compressors you can borrow at Canadian tire
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) I have the Mercedes strut clamp you can borrow just pay shipping and if you break it you buy it. Pm me
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 08:51 AM) thanks, guys! And... does anyone in Vancouver area have the clamp so I can "rent"?
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:43 PM) To and from SK*. I'm just waiting on some bits to finish the Golf build
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:41 PM) Still driving it, drove it to and from and average 4.7l/100l loaded to the brim.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 06:19 PM) Dillen how much did you end up getting for the wagon?
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:13 PM) And if replacing the plastic bellows (dust boots) on the struts, cut a good 1.5" off the bottoms of them or they'll just compress around the stops and get in the way of the clamp tool
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:11 PM) also, take a new knife blade and cut about an inch off the bump stops unless you love bottoming out on small bumps.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) wont need it for the Eibachs
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) If the springs are broken at the top as suspected, the spring compressor might not be necessary.
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:49 PM) And a normal spring compressor
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Strut clamp tool*
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Lots of penetrating oil on the top nut and see if you can borrow a strut tool of you don't have the proper air tools
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:08 PM) Now, let's see if I can replace them without getting myself killed...
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:07 PM) Got the Eibach springs!
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 12:29 PM) Lol
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) ok, maybe MikeT
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) Who doesn't? Hehehe
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 07:46 AM) sounds like you have a decent to do list. .
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 08:00 PM) Perhaps even throw a set of powerflex purple bushings, and a set of 16" "space" wheels, but not now...)
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) ( I WILL replace the entire control arm, with all 4 ball joints, drop links, all the upper bearings and a nice set of B8s. But not now. Maybe by December, when I get money for that...
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:57 PM) Nah, the steering damper is fine (I was worried about that too), and actually, the bearing is not bad, its just the pad that is glazed.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) also check your steering damper. If the damage is already extensive, good chance the damper has bled out like mine had
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) but honestly if you are removing the control arms, you may as well replace the other parts. Use the Evilution or FQ guides, and add in tolsen's tips about reversing the BJ bolts, and using SS bolts and nuts if possible.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:04 PM) The right bearing might turn out to be a seized caliper or delaminated pad...
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 09:20 PM) I lifted the car today, and upon inspection, I saw that the ball joints and the drop links are fine. The bushings are probably busted (they are noisy and rough), and the right bearing is heavy and noisy. I couldn't see if the springs are broken or not, but both top collars are loose. (I'll trust CANMAN on that one). But I was getting ready to replace ALL ball joints, drop links, control arms, shocks...
@  Francesco : (22 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) So who was it that told you all that stuff was kaput? I seem to remember being puzzled about how extensive your list was
@  CANMAN : (22 August 2015 - 06:52 PM) Because both springs are broken at the top.
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) Oh, and the right bearing is kaput.
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) I finally lifted my smart. And to my surprise, both front springs, shocks, drop links and ball joints seem to be in good condition! What are NOT good are the top collars. Neither springs are sitting on them. How come?
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Hi, smart owners

Photo

How to turn off the service "wrench"?


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4 replies to this topic

#1 Kent&Alex

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 07:59 AM

My wife took the smart into the local mechanic for the B service, and the guy tried to turn off the "need service wrench" thing using the code reader and couldn't. He said it might be a combination of actions that turns it off (like hitting the breaks four times while starting, whatever). First, how do you turn it off.Now my second issue, when he tried to turn off the wrench, and after I tried a few combination after we left, the car's odometer increased 1000km!! We went in at 69,568 and left at 70,573! Ever hear of that happening?Update: found out how to turn off the service wrench doing a google search...its not particularly easy to accomplish. Still don't know why it reset the mileage an extra thousand km.

Edited by Kent&Alex, 11 September 2010 - 09:03 AM.


#2 Francesco

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 09:19 AM

Now my second issue, when he tried to turn off the wrench, and after I tried a few combination after we left, the car's odometer increased 1000km!! We went in at 69,568 and left at 70,573! Ever hear of that happening?

Posted Image
Francesco

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#3 Mike T

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    We pre-ordered our first smart in July 2002!

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 09:44 AM

Thanks to your numb-nuts indie mechanic, you just lost 1000 km of warranty....The procedure is well described in this forum and the OBDII port is not used for that. Just the button on the instrument pod and the starter key.

Edited by Mike T, 11 September 2010 - 09:45 AM.

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet, FlyingTiger map 380023_5.png
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A and Winter packages 542252_5.png
2008 Mercedes-Benz B 200 5 speed, other goodies 206221_5.png
1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection, in restoration (2016) 201066_5.png


#4 Mike T

Mike T

    We pre-ordered our first smart in July 2002!

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Posted 11 September 2010 - 09:51 AM

Resetting the 450 service indicator.

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet, FlyingTiger map 380023_5.png
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A and Winter packages 542252_5.png
2008 Mercedes-Benz B 200 5 speed, other goodies 206221_5.png
1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection, in restoration (2016) 201066_5.png


#5 Kent&Alex

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  • Location:Kingsville Ontario

Posted 12 September 2010 - 12:44 PM

Posted Image

Yeah, that's what I suggested to my wife. She doesn't think so, they recorded the mileage when she brought it in, and they only had three hours to play with the car.

Thanks to your numb-nuts indie mechanic, you just lost 1000 km of warranty....

The procedure is well described in this forum and the OBDII port is not used for that. Just the button on the instrument pod and the starter key.

We're way beyond the warranty. You'd think the odometer would be a protected area you can't mess with, funny how we managed it.

Edited by Kent&Alex, 12 September 2010 - 12:46 PM.





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