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@  turbomar : (22 November 2014 - 06:33 PM) Thanks for the tip lads! Going to Princess tomorrow
@  marchanna : (22 November 2014 - 05:57 PM) Princess Auto is the best! I live less than a Km from there.
@  Bessy : (22 November 2014 - 05:53 PM) Turbomar, Princess Auto has the socket for about $3. I've done 20 or so pairs of reluctors and haven't broken a socket yet.
@  dmoonen : (22 November 2014 - 09:48 AM) Yes it is Turbomar.
@  turbomar : (22 November 2014 - 07:38 AM) Is the socket size for the drive axle bolt to hub on the 450, 12 point 21mm?
@  dmoonen : (21 November 2014 - 03:41 PM) I think glow plug gets triggered by the coolant sensor
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 12:11 PM) I couldn't tell you for sure.
@  kdubya : (21 November 2014 - 11:39 AM) i played around a bunch, entered everything i could. i didn't see it anywhere. Is it something we know the Star can do?
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:52 AM) There are a whole lot of read outs in there, so you may have to dig around a bit, but that's where I would think they'd be.
@  kdubya : (21 November 2014 - 09:45 AM) k ill check. i want to make sure they are working. just a read out of temp
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:21 AM) probably under the "Engine" section
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:20 AM) Read out is likely under Systems>N3/9 (EDG control unit) > Actual Value Indicator, somewhere.
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:18 AM) As in, configurable, or just a read out?
@  kdubya : (21 November 2014 - 08:58 AM) Anyone know where to find cylinder temp (glow plug function) on the Star??
@  FlossyTheSmart : (19 November 2014 - 11:38 AM) classic
@  Mike T : (19 November 2014 - 11:38 AM) Hodor
@  evotell : (19 November 2014 - 11:35 AM) Saying your own name, I don't get it?
@  dmoonen : (19 November 2014 - 10:52 AM) Saying your own name evotell :P
@  evotell : (19 November 2014 - 10:49 AM) evotell
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 06:29 PM) Well, we repaired the wires and its driving fine now... I guess I'll have to wait for another slushy day to be sure. Thanks for all the help guys!
@  Mike T : (18 November 2014 - 05:24 PM) This happened to our dearly departed green car too and the solution was that simple.
@  SkydiverChris : (18 November 2014 - 03:32 PM) Glad to hear that you may have found the cause Kurt! Keep us posted! It's almost never that simple.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 12:00 PM) cost me close to $300 to tow from the Canadian border post at Hemingford to my driveway (80 km), and my car was up on blocks for two weeks while I tracked down and resolved the issues.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 11:58 AM) jurist? During
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 11:58 AM) Yep, mine started acting up jurist a January thaw on a long steady drive through the country, then the car refused to move on a slushy day on a long steady drive on the same roads a week later. The slushy brine is both conductive and tenacious.
@  FlossyTheSmart : (18 November 2014 - 11:40 AM) That's probably it.
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 11:21 AM) So my friend with soldering skills is going to help me after work... I'm confident this will solve the problem. First slushy day we have so it must have splashed up there and shorted out.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 10:25 AM) knock on wood, no recurrence after two winters and three summers.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 10:25 AM) then wraped all in Tesa cloth harness tape ($20 a roll at MB, about the same off ebay)
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 10:24 AM) Yeah, mine was the same. I repaired the wires and coated the whole thing in Liquid Electrical Tape ($9 at CT)
@  stickman007 : (18 November 2014 - 10:20 AM) There's probably corrosion inside the sheath due to moisture getting in
@  FlossyTheSmart : (18 November 2014 - 07:29 AM) with the wires chafed, they're probably only intermittantly making good contact. Wrapping in electrical tape probably won't be able to keep the connection good.
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 07:26 AM) What if I wrap the chafed wires in electrical tape and try driving around?
@  FlossyTheSmart : (18 November 2014 - 07:21 AM) hopefully it's as simple as that!
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 07:11 AM) I immediately found 2 chafed wires at the connection to the clutch actuator!
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:49 AM) Majority of the problems are in the engine harness area right at the IC scoop. Removing the IC would give you more wiggle room and less curse words
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:47 AM) SAM to rear ecu travels under the carpet and right into the firewall behind the seats.
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:46 AM) Harness to two sections: 1:Rear ECU TO engine sensors and components. 2: Sam:Rear ECU.
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:44 AM) No you dont need to kurt, mainly around the intercooler scoop area and back youll be
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 04:27 AM) Do I have to remove any of the under panels to get to the harness?
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 04:33 PM) Well maybe if I need a star machine I'll send you a message Max!
@  FlossyTheSmart : (17 November 2014 - 04:20 PM) I think just me, Chris, and Troy have star machines in the Ottawa area.
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 04:03 PM) Any help would be appreciated!
@  SkydiverChris : (17 November 2014 - 03:58 PM) NOt sure if anyone out your way has a Star, but there are a couple people around Ottawa that do. If you're stuck, they may be able to help
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 03:56 PM) Thanks I appreciate it!
@  SkydiverChris : (17 November 2014 - 03:55 PM) Sorry man, if you're still stuck on the weekend, I might be convinced to make a trip out that way (unless someone else gets there before I do), but there's a tonne of stuff to try, and the Star may or may not give you something to go on.
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 03:49 PM) Ya I feel ya... I guess I'll check the fork and harness tomorrow and go from there. Wish me luck!
@  SkydiverChris : (17 November 2014 - 03:46 PM) Ewww...that's one hell of a trip. haha
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 03:42 PM) Innes/Tenth line exactly
@  SkydiverChris : (17 November 2014 - 03:42 PM) If it was summer, I skydive in Gatineau and am out that way almost every weekend. Unfortunately, we don't jump in winter much.

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REAR brake indicator noise


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 04:01 AM

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if the rear brake indicator noise is different from the front brake indicator noise?

I've heard the strange noise that the front brake indicator makes. The noise my little smart is making now is completely different from that. It's a very high pitched, metal rubbing sound. Like a very large broken cd player. I have to get my AC repaired soon anyway (33 degrees out today???) and I planned to get summer tires put on as soon as I can find something inexpensive enough to fit into my budget. So it's not a stretch to have them poke around at the brakes some, if that's the problem. I'm also considering that perhaps it's my front right shock, could it make that kind of noise if it was loose? I have had that wheel, mount, bearing, and rim replaced due to pothole last year. It's also been suggested that perhaps it's the interaction of my soft winter tires with the rim, or hubcap. I'm not finding that driving it is any different (other than the bizarre looks I'm getting from people as I squeal past them). It makes the noise less when I'm braking and turning than when I'm driving which was why I thought perhaps it was my rear brakes. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Amber
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#2 Mike T

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:21 AM

There is no rear brake "warning noise", so it could be the rear shoes are down to the rivets or metal (assuming they don't have brass rivets!) or the noise is being caused by something else. Our car's rear brakes squeal sometimes when it's wet outside.

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#3 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:15 AM

Ah, I imagine that must be it then. I changed the front brake pads awhile back, but the rears haven't been changed yet. I'm fairly easy on brakes but they ought to be due by now. I bet that costs a fortune. :thumbsdown_still: Mine squeal all the time when they're wet too, this is definitely a different noise.
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#4 CANMAN

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:21 AM

The longer you put off having the brakes fixed the more expensive it will be. (cause more damage)You should have done the rear brakes when you did the front ones.CANMAN
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#5 bilgladstone

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:51 AM

I totally disagree. The front brakes do the lion's share of the work and the rears don't normally need replacing at anything like the frequency of the fronts.

Although... if a mechanic undertook to repair the front brakes and didn't bother looking at the back ones to see how much they were worn too, and if it turns out that they were so badly worn that they needed doing, then yes, they should have been done and the mechanic should be hit with a stick.

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#6 MightyMouseTech

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:00 AM

The longer you put off having the brakes fixed the more expensive it will be. (cause more damage) You should have done the rear brakes when you did the front ones. CANMAN

Um, unlikely. Rear drum brakes should last nearly the life of the vehicle if kept in proper adjustment.
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#7 Alex

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:16 AM

True, but they should be serviced a few times, cleaned out and checked, adjusters lubed, parking brake cables lubed.A tiny pebble can get into the drums and make your sound as well as wear a groove into the drum. If a parking brake seizes the shoes will drag and wear. If an adjuster seizes the brakes won't adjust and will wear unevenly.

#8 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:04 AM

the mechanic should be hit with a stick.

Ok, let's lay off the mechanic, it was me. :) I have no idea how to check my rear brakes, let alone change them. I only managed to do the fronts with some generous help. I'm not sure I could do it again on my own. I had my last official MB (before the warranty runs out) wrench check previous to the brakes, they advised changing the fronts, and possibly the rotors, and changing the backs, on the invoice they wrote that the fronts had 20% left in them, and the rears had 70%. I changed the fronts when they started making noise, which was probably a month after that, and I think that was in October. I could definitely believe it was a pebble making that noise, in fact, I initially thought there was a pebble stuck between my rim and my hubcap. I've also had my parking brake seize on me twice, though I never really noticed apart from the startling inability to park facing upwards on a hill. I assumed that the parking brake just had a lifespan like my air conditioner and that I'd have to get it fixed every once in awhile. Could the parking brake be making that noise?
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#9 scwmcan

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 05:56 AM

if you had 70 % left last fall it is unlikely to be the rear brakes. not sure what it is since I can't hear it, but pretty sure it isn't your rear brake shoes.
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#10 Mike T

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:26 AM

Feel the brake drums after a ride, are they hot?

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet, FlyingTiger map 380023_5.png
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A and Winter packages 542252_5.png
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#11 Squeeakers

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:31 AM

I'll check when I get home tonight.
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#12 frankie5string

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 08:35 AM

Really ? Change the rear brakes with the front? That's the silliest thing I've ever heard. The front brakes do nearly all the slowing work. Rear breaks are mainly there to hold the vehicle once stopped. You can burn up rear drum brakes really easily if you fiddle with them so they're doing more work.That said, I know of one wise-a$$ who thought he'd "tweak" the rear drum brakes to increase their usage... His car would jerk to a stop every time he used the brakes because the drums were grabbing and latching. Not to mention he eventually delaminated the rear brake pads and required replacement... at 30000k... ;-)
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#13 Squeeakers

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 04:58 AM

Hey Mike T, thanks for suggesting that. It was really very informative. I checked my rear brakes after driving home and they both were fine. However, I managed to convince someone to hang out my passenger window while I drive around at speed to see if I could get any more information, and I discovered that it is NOT the rear wheels that the noise is coming from, but in fact it's the front right one. I checked it out when we stopped and the front right wheel was extremely hot, while the front left was cool.Any thoughts on that? The rotor's edge is quite crusty, could it be crud stuck in there somewhere? Caliper stuck? Something else entirely?
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#14 scwmcan

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 05:31 AM

Hey Mike T, thanks for suggesting that. It was really very informative. I checked my rear brakes after driving home and they both were fine. However, I managed to convince someone to hang out my passenger window while I drive around at speed to see if I could get any more information, and I discovered that it is NOT the rear wheels that the noise is coming from, but in fact it's the front right one. I checked it out when we stopped and the front right wheel was extremely hot, while the front left was cool. Any thoughts on that? The rotor's edge is quite crusty, could it be crud stuck in there somewhere? Caliper stuck? Something else entirely?

my thought would be the caliper not sliding properly, and may have worn your pads out again, or it could be some thing stuck between the rotor and the sheild (reported here failrly commonly) either way the only way to be sure is take the front wheel off and inspect the brakes, also make sure to try and move the wheel (checking for bearing wear etc). good luck
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#15 Squeeakers

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 06:55 AM

my thought would be the caliper not sliding properly, and may have worn your pads out again, or it could be some thing stuck between the rotor and the sheild (reported here failrly commonly) either way the only way to be sure is take the front wheel off and inspect the brakes, also make sure to try and move the wheel (checking for bearing wear etc). good luck

Thanks scwmcan, we'll check all that. God I hope it's not the bearings, they've already been replaced once, as well as the mount and rim, and some other part that cost a fortune that I can't remember the name of.
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#16 scwmcan

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 07:38 AM

Thanks scwmcan, we'll check all that. God I hope it's not the bearings, they've already been replaced once, as well as the mount and rim, and some other part that cost a fortune that I can't remember the name of.

well hopefully it isn't the bearing then, if it has been replaced already it is less likely at least. Sticking caliper or debris is the most likely, hopefully nothing to serious.
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#17 Squeeakers

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 05:50 PM

Ok, we got the wheel off to take a look at it. It had a lot of rusty gunk on the rotor edge, plus gunk under the brake pad. We got most of that off, and it's changed the way it sounds, but it looks a lot like I need to replace the rotor. I think it's warped slightly. I've figured out how to get them off, but I could use some help with finding new ones. I assume there's a specific size and/or type of rotor I need? Are there any great places to get them at a good price? Also, it looks like on the evilution site that the caliper bolts will need a torx socket, is that right?
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#18 lebikerboy

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 08:51 PM

Well, sort of... http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html
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#19 Speedie

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:45 PM

Rotors from the dealer are not that bad - about $80 bucks or so trade price - the tolerance for wear is not much so turning the rotor if it is worn at all is not a good idea. Fast Eddy can set you up with EBC pads. Here is a link to how to change the pads and rotors - Them's the Brakes Cheers, Cameron
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#20 scwmcan

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Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:01 AM

Parts source actually has them (from their premium line if that means anything) for $40.75 each brake pads $45 for a set haven't tried them so not sure or place of orgin or quality though. I noticed NAPA has some as well (not sure on pricing on those though). It seems that parts are now (finally) becoming available from third parties, of course the quality may differ from OEM (as with any other make as well). I have found that there are now oil filters available easily too (though sometimes they are more than the dealer will charge so make sure you check prices from the dealer before you buy).

Edited by scwmcan, 23 June 2011 - 08:04 AM.

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#21 Squeeakers

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 01:58 PM

It turns out the squealing noise was none of the above! It's still at MB right now for an epic 3 day fix, the squealing, the A/C and changin the tires. Turns out the squealing was a piece of plastic cover stuck in a something. Apparently not all that expensive of a part. I'll update once I get the paperwork back.
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