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@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:15 PM) I found these: http://www.rs-parts....r-smart450.html
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:15 PM) Question: With the lowered springs (Eibach, 25mm), can I still put a set of 16" on my limousine?
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:14 PM) I'll see what I can do...
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 08:56 AM) Check with Fast Eddy to see if he'll rent you the correct tool for cheap.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) (like copper or aluminium)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) I'll try with something hard, but not as hard as steel
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:42 PM) tolsen has posted about it before. Personally I thought a couple hours of tinkering was time better spent elsewhere, and the $50 for the tool well spent
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) you need a hardwood, soft won't do
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) no worries, got the idea
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:40 PM) the hole being the exact size of the rod, not the disc. Sorry about the syntax
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:39 PM) A wooden clamp would work well. Drill a hole in a wooden disc the exact size of the strut rod's diameter, then cut the disc in half and add flats
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:13 PM) leather is too soft, as is rubber. I was thinking about either copper wire wound around the strut or tinfoil. and a vise Grip
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:11 PM) An old leather belt might work better, but I had no luck with it
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:10 PM) (I was thinking about a vise grip and tinfoil. you know, tinfoil is aluminum, and can potentailly protect the shock, and a vbise grip is FAR more useful than the clamp, but this is me trying to Mcgiver a solution, as usual...)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) ah, ok, then
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) The strut spins freely, you need the special clamping tool to provide flats for a big open ended wrench (with this tool 47 mm)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Can't I use LOTS of wd40, a t47 bit and a breaker bar?
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:01 PM) The strut clamp is a necessity. Worth every cent I paid -- making something similar myself would have taken me more time than I'd like to spend in order to save the few bucks.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:00 PM) c'mon! I'll use twine. And optimism.
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 01:59 PM) I honestly didn't need them on the broken spring, and while handy for the lowering springs, not necessary.
@  dmoonen : (27 August 2015 - 08:06 AM) Spring compresssors are still needed. .Tolson why must you take the hard way to everything
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 03:59 PM) nah, the springs are broken, and I can use the ye old zip-tie trick. But since I'm going to put eibachs (-25mm) I won't worry.]
@  tolsen : (26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM) Clamp type spring compressors should not be used since the damage both protective coating and spring.
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) The spring compressors you can borrow at Canadian tire
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) I have the Mercedes strut clamp you can borrow just pay shipping and if you break it you buy it. Pm me
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 08:51 AM) thanks, guys! And... does anyone in Vancouver area have the clamp so I can "rent"?
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:43 PM) To and from SK*. I'm just waiting on some bits to finish the Golf build
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:41 PM) Still driving it, drove it to and from and average 4.7l/100l loaded to the brim.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 06:19 PM) Dillen how much did you end up getting for the wagon?
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:13 PM) And if replacing the plastic bellows (dust boots) on the struts, cut a good 1.5" off the bottoms of them or they'll just compress around the stops and get in the way of the clamp tool
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:11 PM) also, take a new knife blade and cut about an inch off the bump stops unless you love bottoming out on small bumps.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) wont need it for the Eibachs
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) If the springs are broken at the top as suspected, the spring compressor might not be necessary.
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:49 PM) And a normal spring compressor
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Strut clamp tool*
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Lots of penetrating oil on the top nut and see if you can borrow a strut tool of you don't have the proper air tools
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:08 PM) Now, let's see if I can replace them without getting myself killed...
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:07 PM) Got the Eibach springs!
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 12:29 PM) Lol
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) ok, maybe MikeT
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) Who doesn't? Hehehe
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 07:46 AM) sounds like you have a decent to do list. .
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 08:00 PM) Perhaps even throw a set of powerflex purple bushings, and a set of 16" "space" wheels, but not now...)
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) ( I WILL replace the entire control arm, with all 4 ball joints, drop links, all the upper bearings and a nice set of B8s. But not now. Maybe by December, when I get money for that...
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:57 PM) Nah, the steering damper is fine (I was worried about that too), and actually, the bearing is not bad, its just the pad that is glazed.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) also check your steering damper. If the damage is already extensive, good chance the damper has bled out like mine had
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) but honestly if you are removing the control arms, you may as well replace the other parts. Use the Evilution or FQ guides, and add in tolsen's tips about reversing the BJ bolts, and using SS bolts and nuts if possible.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:04 PM) The right bearing might turn out to be a seized caliper or delaminated pad...
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 09:20 PM) I lifted the car today, and upon inspection, I saw that the ball joints and the drop links are fine. The bushings are probably busted (they are noisy and rough), and the right bearing is heavy and noisy. I couldn't see if the springs are broken or not, but both top collars are loose. (I'll trust CANMAN on that one). But I was getting ready to replace ALL ball joints, drop links, control arms, shocks...
@  Francesco : (22 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) So who was it that told you all that stuff was kaput? I seem to remember being puzzled about how extensive your list was

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REAR brake indicator noise


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 04:01 AM

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if the rear brake indicator noise is different from the front brake indicator noise?

I've heard the strange noise that the front brake indicator makes. The noise my little smart is making now is completely different from that. It's a very high pitched, metal rubbing sound. Like a very large broken cd player. I have to get my AC repaired soon anyway (33 degrees out today???) and I planned to get summer tires put on as soon as I can find something inexpensive enough to fit into my budget. So it's not a stretch to have them poke around at the brakes some, if that's the problem. I'm also considering that perhaps it's my front right shock, could it make that kind of noise if it was loose? I have had that wheel, mount, bearing, and rim replaced due to pothole last year. It's also been suggested that perhaps it's the interaction of my soft winter tires with the rim, or hubcap. I'm not finding that driving it is any different (other than the bizarre looks I'm getting from people as I squeal past them). It makes the noise less when I'm braking and turning than when I'm driving which was why I thought perhaps it was my rear brakes. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
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#2 Mike T

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:21 AM

There is no rear brake "warning noise", so it could be the rear shoes are down to the rivets or metal (assuming they don't have brass rivets!) or the noise is being caused by something else. Our car's rear brakes squeal sometimes when it's wet outside.

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#3 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:15 AM

Ah, I imagine that must be it then. I changed the front brake pads awhile back, but the rears haven't been changed yet. I'm fairly easy on brakes but they ought to be due by now. I bet that costs a fortune. :thumbsdown_still: Mine squeal all the time when they're wet too, this is definitely a different noise.
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#4 CANMAN

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:21 AM

The longer you put off having the brakes fixed the more expensive it will be. (cause more damage)You should have done the rear brakes when you did the front ones.CANMAN
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#5 bilgladstone

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:51 AM

I totally disagree. The front brakes do the lion's share of the work and the rears don't normally need replacing at anything like the frequency of the fronts.

Although... if a mechanic undertook to repair the front brakes and didn't bother looking at the back ones to see how much they were worn too, and if it turns out that they were so badly worn that they needed doing, then yes, they should have been done and the mechanic should be hit with a stick.

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#6 MightyMouseTech

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:00 AM

The longer you put off having the brakes fixed the more expensive it will be. (cause more damage) You should have done the rear brakes when you did the front ones. CANMAN

Um, unlikely. Rear drum brakes should last nearly the life of the vehicle if kept in proper adjustment.
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#7 Alex

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:16 AM

True, but they should be serviced a few times, cleaned out and checked, adjusters lubed, parking brake cables lubed.A tiny pebble can get into the drums and make your sound as well as wear a groove into the drum. If a parking brake seizes the shoes will drag and wear. If an adjuster seizes the brakes won't adjust and will wear unevenly.

#8 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:04 AM

the mechanic should be hit with a stick.

Ok, let's lay off the mechanic, it was me. :) I have no idea how to check my rear brakes, let alone change them. I only managed to do the fronts with some generous help. I'm not sure I could do it again on my own. I had my last official MB (before the warranty runs out) wrench check previous to the brakes, they advised changing the fronts, and possibly the rotors, and changing the backs, on the invoice they wrote that the fronts had 20% left in them, and the rears had 70%. I changed the fronts when they started making noise, which was probably a month after that, and I think that was in October. I could definitely believe it was a pebble making that noise, in fact, I initially thought there was a pebble stuck between my rim and my hubcap. I've also had my parking brake seize on me twice, though I never really noticed apart from the startling inability to park facing upwards on a hill. I assumed that the parking brake just had a lifespan like my air conditioner and that I'd have to get it fixed every once in awhile. Could the parking brake be making that noise?
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#9 scwmcan

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 05:56 AM

if you had 70 % left last fall it is unlikely to be the rear brakes. not sure what it is since I can't hear it, but pretty sure it isn't your rear brake shoes.
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#10 Mike T

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:26 AM

Feel the brake drums after a ride, are they hot?

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#11 Squeeakers

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:31 AM

I'll check when I get home tonight.
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#12 frankie5string

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 08:35 AM

Really ? Change the rear brakes with the front? That's the silliest thing I've ever heard. The front brakes do nearly all the slowing work. Rear breaks are mainly there to hold the vehicle once stopped. You can burn up rear drum brakes really easily if you fiddle with them so they're doing more work.That said, I know of one wise-a$$ who thought he'd "tweak" the rear drum brakes to increase their usage... His car would jerk to a stop every time he used the brakes because the drums were grabbing and latching. Not to mention he eventually delaminated the rear brake pads and required replacement... at 30000k... ;-)
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#13 Squeeakers

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 04:58 AM

Hey Mike T, thanks for suggesting that. It was really very informative. I checked my rear brakes after driving home and they both were fine. However, I managed to convince someone to hang out my passenger window while I drive around at speed to see if I could get any more information, and I discovered that it is NOT the rear wheels that the noise is coming from, but in fact it's the front right one. I checked it out when we stopped and the front right wheel was extremely hot, while the front left was cool.Any thoughts on that? The rotor's edge is quite crusty, could it be crud stuck in there somewhere? Caliper stuck? Something else entirely?
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#14 scwmcan

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 05:31 AM

Hey Mike T, thanks for suggesting that. It was really very informative. I checked my rear brakes after driving home and they both were fine. However, I managed to convince someone to hang out my passenger window while I drive around at speed to see if I could get any more information, and I discovered that it is NOT the rear wheels that the noise is coming from, but in fact it's the front right one. I checked it out when we stopped and the front right wheel was extremely hot, while the front left was cool. Any thoughts on that? The rotor's edge is quite crusty, could it be crud stuck in there somewhere? Caliper stuck? Something else entirely?

my thought would be the caliper not sliding properly, and may have worn your pads out again, or it could be some thing stuck between the rotor and the sheild (reported here failrly commonly) either way the only way to be sure is take the front wheel off and inspect the brakes, also make sure to try and move the wheel (checking for bearing wear etc). good luck
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#15 Squeeakers

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 06:55 AM

my thought would be the caliper not sliding properly, and may have worn your pads out again, or it could be some thing stuck between the rotor and the sheild (reported here failrly commonly) either way the only way to be sure is take the front wheel off and inspect the brakes, also make sure to try and move the wheel (checking for bearing wear etc). good luck

Thanks scwmcan, we'll check all that. God I hope it's not the bearings, they've already been replaced once, as well as the mount and rim, and some other part that cost a fortune that I can't remember the name of.
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#16 scwmcan

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 07:38 AM

Thanks scwmcan, we'll check all that. God I hope it's not the bearings, they've already been replaced once, as well as the mount and rim, and some other part that cost a fortune that I can't remember the name of.

well hopefully it isn't the bearing then, if it has been replaced already it is less likely at least. Sticking caliper or debris is the most likely, hopefully nothing to serious.
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#17 Squeeakers

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 05:50 PM

Ok, we got the wheel off to take a look at it. It had a lot of rusty gunk on the rotor edge, plus gunk under the brake pad. We got most of that off, and it's changed the way it sounds, but it looks a lot like I need to replace the rotor. I think it's warped slightly. I've figured out how to get them off, but I could use some help with finding new ones. I assume there's a specific size and/or type of rotor I need? Are there any great places to get them at a good price? Also, it looks like on the evilution site that the caliper bolts will need a torx socket, is that right?
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#18 lebikerboy

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 08:51 PM

Well, sort of... http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html

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#19 Speedie

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:45 PM

Rotors from the dealer are not that bad - about $80 bucks or so trade price - the tolerance for wear is not much so turning the rotor if it is worn at all is not a good idea. Fast Eddy can set you up with EBC pads. Here is a link to how to change the pads and rotors - Them's the Brakes Cheers, Cameron
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#20 scwmcan

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Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:01 AM

Parts source actually has them (from their premium line if that means anything) for $40.75 each brake pads $45 for a set haven't tried them so not sure or place of orgin or quality though. I noticed NAPA has some as well (not sure on pricing on those though). It seems that parts are now (finally) becoming available from third parties, of course the quality may differ from OEM (as with any other make as well). I have found that there are now oil filters available easily too (though sometimes they are more than the dealer will charge so make sure you check prices from the dealer before you buy).

Edited by scwmcan, 23 June 2011 - 08:04 AM.

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#21 Squeeakers

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 01:58 PM

It turns out the squealing noise was none of the above! It's still at MB right now for an epic 3 day fix, the squealing, the A/C and changin the tires. Turns out the squealing was a piece of plastic cover stuck in a something. Apparently not all that expensive of a part. I'll update once I get the paperwork back.
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