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@  KurtMan : (30 September 2014 - 12:49 PM) It was in fact the PY21 bulb that was burnt, the Canadian Tire associate insisted his computer system was correct and gave me 7528 bulbs. So I will return the bulbs and educate him when I return ��
@  stickman007 : (29 September 2014 - 02:29 PM) I bought a set of triple square from Mac Tools...the only one I ever use was 8mm for the CV
@  Francesco : (29 September 2014 - 09:16 AM) Yeah, ok. Buddy brought over his wife's 2000 Beetle TDI for a detail and I wanted to adjust the doors, but the strikers and hinges both had triple square bolts.
@  dmoonen : (29 September 2014 - 09:01 AM) Had to buy a couple sets for working on my vw's, basicly bbs rims, axels and a outher parts require them including the injector pump on the ALH's. I don't think there's a single one on the smarts that I recall mostly torx, etorx and standard sockets.
@  dmoonen : (29 September 2014 - 08:59 AM) VW need them but smarts no so much
@  Francesco : (29 September 2014 - 08:41 AM) I never noticed, does the 450 use any triple-square bolts? Does the 451? The set will be handy for when I work on Dubs, but was wondering about smarts, too.
@  Francesco : (28 September 2014 - 09:38 PM) The turn signal bulb? Or the bulb that would normally go in the empty BA15s socket below the top brake lamp? The TS is PY21W or P21W, while the one in the empty socket is R5W (207), a 5 Watt bulb. Note than on Canadian 450s that socket isn't connected to any power or earth.
@  KurtMan : (28 September 2014 - 06:00 PM) Thanks guys, I forgot to say it's a 450.
@  FlossyTheSmart : (28 September 2014 - 05:37 PM) WHich is a yellow bulb, despite being behind a red lens
@  FlossyTheSmart : (28 September 2014 - 05:36 PM) Oh, missed the lower break light correction. I think that is a PY21W
@  FlossyTheSmart : (28 September 2014 - 05:32 PM) I want to say P21W - I was just changing bulbs on my cabrio yesterday and it's actually on the plastic casing what bulbs are meant to go there - that's what I remember. I'm sure Evilution will have it there somewhere too.
@  marchanna : (28 September 2014 - 03:07 PM) I'm not sure if 450's are the same
@  marchanna : (28 September 2014 - 03:07 PM) On 451 models it's a 7528
@  marchanna : (28 September 2014 - 03:03 PM) What year?
@  KurtMan : (28 September 2014 - 02:52 PM) *I should specify lower break light.
@  KurtMan : (28 September 2014 - 02:48 PM) Does anyone know what the bulb type is in the lower part of a cabrio tail light?
@  amr530711 : (27 September 2014 - 02:16 PM) it's got a hard short on the black cable running from the positive post to the rear of the car - does that connect to the starter or to the alternator? This car seems to eat alternators, and the blackout happened at roughly the same time as the alternator would kick in, just a couple of seconds after moving forward.
@  stickman007 : (27 September 2014 - 01:52 PM) Check your connection at the battery terminals? I think somebody here in the forum had the battery cable melted once...
@  amr530711 : (27 September 2014 - 11:55 AM) hey everyone! I'm having a hard time with the new search, I'm looking for information about a total electrical failure. I started the car, drove about 50 feet, it bucked, the instrument cluster went out, back on, then completely off. and now I have no electrics at all. no four way flashers, can't roll up the window, car won't lock, absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key. Not sure what words to use in the search. any help would be appreciated
@  Francesco : (27 September 2014 - 07:10 AM) And a whole set of triple square bits off Amazon for $25. SnapOn rep said they're special order, and each bit is close to $30!!!

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REAR brake indicator noise


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 04:01 AM

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if the rear brake indicator noise is different from the front brake indicator noise?

I've heard the strange noise that the front brake indicator makes. The noise my little smart is making now is completely different from that. It's a very high pitched, metal rubbing sound. Like a very large broken cd player. I have to get my AC repaired soon anyway (33 degrees out today???) and I planned to get summer tires put on as soon as I can find something inexpensive enough to fit into my budget. So it's not a stretch to have them poke around at the brakes some, if that's the problem. I'm also considering that perhaps it's my front right shock, could it make that kind of noise if it was loose? I have had that wheel, mount, bearing, and rim replaced due to pothole last year. It's also been suggested that perhaps it's the interaction of my soft winter tires with the rim, or hubcap. I'm not finding that driving it is any different (other than the bizarre looks I'm getting from people as I squeal past them). It makes the noise less when I'm braking and turning than when I'm driving which was why I thought perhaps it was my rear brakes. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
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#2 Mike T

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 06:21 AM

There is no rear brake "warning noise", so it could be the rear shoes are down to the rivets or metal (assuming they don't have brass rivets!) or the noise is being caused by something else. Our car's rear brakes squeal sometimes when it's wet outside.

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#3 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:15 AM

Ah, I imagine that must be it then. I changed the front brake pads awhile back, but the rears haven't been changed yet. I'm fairly easy on brakes but they ought to be due by now. I bet that costs a fortune. :thumbsdown_still: Mine squeal all the time when they're wet too, this is definitely a different noise.
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#4 CANMAN

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:21 AM

The longer you put off having the brakes fixed the more expensive it will be. (cause more damage)You should have done the rear brakes when you did the front ones.CANMAN
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#5 bilgladstone

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 08:51 AM

I totally disagree. The front brakes do the lion's share of the work and the rears don't normally need replacing at anything like the frequency of the fronts.

Although... if a mechanic undertook to repair the front brakes and didn't bother looking at the back ones to see how much they were worn too, and if it turns out that they were so badly worn that they needed doing, then yes, they should have been done and the mechanic should be hit with a stick.

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#6 MightyMouseTech

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:00 AM

The longer you put off having the brakes fixed the more expensive it will be. (cause more damage) You should have done the rear brakes when you did the front ones. CANMAN

Um, unlikely. Rear drum brakes should last nearly the life of the vehicle if kept in proper adjustment.
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#7 Alex

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:16 AM

True, but they should be serviced a few times, cleaned out and checked, adjusters lubed, parking brake cables lubed.A tiny pebble can get into the drums and make your sound as well as wear a groove into the drum. If a parking brake seizes the shoes will drag and wear. If an adjuster seizes the brakes won't adjust and will wear unevenly.

#8 Squeeakers

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:04 AM

the mechanic should be hit with a stick.

Ok, let's lay off the mechanic, it was me. :) I have no idea how to check my rear brakes, let alone change them. I only managed to do the fronts with some generous help. I'm not sure I could do it again on my own. I had my last official MB (before the warranty runs out) wrench check previous to the brakes, they advised changing the fronts, and possibly the rotors, and changing the backs, on the invoice they wrote that the fronts had 20% left in them, and the rears had 70%. I changed the fronts when they started making noise, which was probably a month after that, and I think that was in October. I could definitely believe it was a pebble making that noise, in fact, I initially thought there was a pebble stuck between my rim and my hubcap. I've also had my parking brake seize on me twice, though I never really noticed apart from the startling inability to park facing upwards on a hill. I assumed that the parking brake just had a lifespan like my air conditioner and that I'd have to get it fixed every once in awhile. Could the parking brake be making that noise?
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#9 scwmcan

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 05:56 AM

if you had 70 % left last fall it is unlikely to be the rear brakes. not sure what it is since I can't hear it, but pretty sure it isn't your rear brake shoes.
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#10 Mike T

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:26 AM

Feel the brake drums after a ride, are they hot?

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet 450 B-remap 380023_5.png
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A pkg, Winter pkg. 542252_5.png
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#11 Squeeakers

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:31 AM

I'll check when I get home tonight.
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#12 frankie5string

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 08:35 AM

Really ? Change the rear brakes with the front? That's the silliest thing I've ever heard. The front brakes do nearly all the slowing work. Rear breaks are mainly there to hold the vehicle once stopped. You can burn up rear drum brakes really easily if you fiddle with them so they're doing more work.That said, I know of one wise-a$$ who thought he'd "tweak" the rear drum brakes to increase their usage... His car would jerk to a stop every time he used the brakes because the drums were grabbing and latching. Not to mention he eventually delaminated the rear brake pads and required replacement... at 30000k... ;-)
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#13 Squeeakers

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 04:58 AM

Hey Mike T, thanks for suggesting that. It was really very informative. I checked my rear brakes after driving home and they both were fine. However, I managed to convince someone to hang out my passenger window while I drive around at speed to see if I could get any more information, and I discovered that it is NOT the rear wheels that the noise is coming from, but in fact it's the front right one. I checked it out when we stopped and the front right wheel was extremely hot, while the front left was cool.Any thoughts on that? The rotor's edge is quite crusty, could it be crud stuck in there somewhere? Caliper stuck? Something else entirely?
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#14 scwmcan

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 05:31 AM

Hey Mike T, thanks for suggesting that. It was really very informative. I checked my rear brakes after driving home and they both were fine. However, I managed to convince someone to hang out my passenger window while I drive around at speed to see if I could get any more information, and I discovered that it is NOT the rear wheels that the noise is coming from, but in fact it's the front right one. I checked it out when we stopped and the front right wheel was extremely hot, while the front left was cool. Any thoughts on that? The rotor's edge is quite crusty, could it be crud stuck in there somewhere? Caliper stuck? Something else entirely?

my thought would be the caliper not sliding properly, and may have worn your pads out again, or it could be some thing stuck between the rotor and the sheild (reported here failrly commonly) either way the only way to be sure is take the front wheel off and inspect the brakes, also make sure to try and move the wheel (checking for bearing wear etc). good luck
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#15 Squeeakers

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 06:55 AM

my thought would be the caliper not sliding properly, and may have worn your pads out again, or it could be some thing stuck between the rotor and the sheild (reported here failrly commonly) either way the only way to be sure is take the front wheel off and inspect the brakes, also make sure to try and move the wheel (checking for bearing wear etc). good luck

Thanks scwmcan, we'll check all that. God I hope it's not the bearings, they've already been replaced once, as well as the mount and rim, and some other part that cost a fortune that I can't remember the name of.
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#16 scwmcan

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 07:38 AM

Thanks scwmcan, we'll check all that. God I hope it's not the bearings, they've already been replaced once, as well as the mount and rim, and some other part that cost a fortune that I can't remember the name of.

well hopefully it isn't the bearing then, if it has been replaced already it is less likely at least. Sticking caliper or debris is the most likely, hopefully nothing to serious.
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#17 Squeeakers

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 05:50 PM

Ok, we got the wheel off to take a look at it. It had a lot of rusty gunk on the rotor edge, plus gunk under the brake pad. We got most of that off, and it's changed the way it sounds, but it looks a lot like I need to replace the rotor. I think it's warped slightly. I've figured out how to get them off, but I could use some help with finding new ones. I assume there's a specific size and/or type of rotor I need? Are there any great places to get them at a good price? Also, it looks like on the evilution site that the caliper bolts will need a torx socket, is that right?
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#18 lebikerboy

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 08:51 PM

Well, sort of... http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html
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#19 Speedie

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:45 PM

Rotors from the dealer are not that bad - about $80 bucks or so trade price - the tolerance for wear is not much so turning the rotor if it is worn at all is not a good idea. Fast Eddy can set you up with EBC pads. Here is a link to how to change the pads and rotors - Them's the Brakes Cheers, Cameron
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#20 scwmcan

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Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:01 AM

Parts source actually has them (from their premium line if that means anything) for $40.75 each brake pads $45 for a set haven't tried them so not sure or place of orgin or quality though. I noticed NAPA has some as well (not sure on pricing on those though). It seems that parts are now (finally) becoming available from third parties, of course the quality may differ from OEM (as with any other make as well). I have found that there are now oil filters available easily too (though sometimes they are more than the dealer will charge so make sure you check prices from the dealer before you buy).

Edited by scwmcan, 23 June 2011 - 08:04 AM.

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#21 Squeeakers

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 01:58 PM

It turns out the squealing noise was none of the above! It's still at MB right now for an epic 3 day fix, the squealing, the A/C and changin the tires. Turns out the squealing was a piece of plastic cover stuck in a something. Apparently not all that expensive of a part. I'll update once I get the paperwork back.
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