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Transport Canada investigating Smart Fortwo door latch
Alex
post Dec 15 2011 - 06:52 PM
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I have regularly lubed mine, no problems that TC wants to hear about yet, but I have noticed some stickiness in the action. A removal and thorough cleaning may be on my future task list.
160K on the car.
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AaronVee
post Dec 16 2011 - 05:15 AM
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How do I properly lube my doors mightymousetech ?

I don't want my doors to fail. Yikes


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Think "N" Smart !

1987 - VW FOX Coupe 1.6L N/A Diesel Swapped - 125,300 KM - Swapping In A 5 Speed
2000 - Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins ECSB - 384,695 - Blown Transmission - Sold
2005 - 450 CDI Cabrio Pulse : Black Tridion - 123,360 KM - VIN 5J222255 - Sold - Miss It
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lebikerboy
post Dec 16 2011 - 06:22 AM
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http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides/fortw...handle-fix.html


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[color="#8B0000"]2006 Lite White Pure burning United Petroleum B20, X-Gauge and tach, Corelines with Vredestein Quatrac 3 175/195, LED side markers, stubby antenna, embroidered luggage cover, Purolator Pure One filter, M20 spin-on adapter, Motul X-cess 5W-40 , Mann cabin filter, blind spot mirrors, aluminum frame end caps, old style cup holder, K&N E-9257 air filter, Michalak air sucker, chicken head fuel cover badge, 135 dB "Freeway Blaster" horn, EBC redstuff pads/USR rotors, Optima Red Top 34/78 battery, Flying Tiger cdi remap, custom seat covers, 451 Brabus "Euro" softtouch shift knob, Michalak mirror/door covers, custom 450 cdi badges, custom license frames, aluminum pedal covers, 17mm wheel bolts with covers, rear view mirror adapter, LED 3rd brake light, "GT Sport" stainless exhaust, RS stainless valance, Eibach Pro springs, Vortex Generators, Bosch Aerotwin wipers.
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Alex
post Jan 18 2012 - 08:08 AM
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My drivers side won't close! Yay! Able to free it up, I guess a removal and clean is in my near future. Reported.

This post has been edited by Alex: Jan 18 2012 - 08:14 AM
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KKSMART05
post Feb 20 2012 - 02:50 PM
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I just added my door latch (passenger side) problem experienced on my '05.


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2005 SMART Passion 170,000 km 1982 Custom 900cc Honda East Coast Quebec Ontario
1976 650cc Kawasaki Canada and US 1962 Ford Falcon A very good time
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bigdavediode
post Feb 22 2012 - 07:57 AM
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QUOTE (ianjay @ Dec 8 2011 - 02:35 PM) *
Wow, maybe this time something will get done about this problem? I don't think anyone had a door fly open while moving,


I had a door fly open while moving, more than a few times. (At minus 10 or 20, too!) I couldn't latch the door properly because it was frozen open but I thought I could hold it closed and drive to work. It didn't end well -- not only did I freeze, but g-forces are a bitch. I managed to do it, somehow, though. No other way to get to work.
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ogopogo
post Mar 1 2012 - 12:12 PM
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Reported my 2006 diesel today. Passenger door would not latch last week. I will lube but this should not happen.
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thejohnny
post Mar 1 2012 - 04:01 PM
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not sure if what i have to say qualifies for failure of door latch.being just purchasing smart car 05 pulse , noticed drivers door would not shut every-time and had to slam to get it closed i just lubed all hinges and latches all around hence seems to of fixed symptoms


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CANMAN
post Mar 1 2012 - 06:42 PM
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Lubing the latches may only be a temporary fix especially if some moisture got in there and freezes.
Complete removal, cleaning, and internal lubrication seems to be the way to go.
Or complain to Transport Canada and hope they make Mercedes replace latches for free.
Canman


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2005 steam green cabriolet, cruise control, armrest, side marker lights,
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2006 smarty
post Mar 13 2012 - 10:42 AM
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just e-mailed my sticky door handle on the drivers side

2006 smart fortwo coupe, pure with a/c, ~ 49,000 km

This post has been edited by 2006 smarty: Mar 13 2012 - 10:43 AM
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Kent&Alex
post Apr 13 2012 - 09:57 AM
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Latch failed on ours last fall preventing the car from locking. Got it repaired at Overseas Motors at a cost to $400. Reported.
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swl
post Apr 24 2012 - 04:37 PM
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missed this post until now. Added my failure to the list. The more complaints the more likely something can be done.
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imsmartin
post May 17 2012 - 10:07 AM
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I just reported the 2 latch problems I tracked in my repair spreadsheet:

Nov 22 2007: Locked IN the car in London, ON. FOB and drivers door would not open the door in every combination of FOB lock/unlock and door handle I could think of. Latch replaced by MB on Nov 29 2007. (I left the mall I was at and returned to my hotel. Back at the hotel the door magically (to me) opened. I had called MB - from within the car - pretty angry that day at 450pm explaining 'I am LOCKED in my car').

Nov 12, 2010: Driver's door would not close intermittently. Difficult to open and close. Latch again defective. MB paid for the part. I paid for the labour as they were not extending labour as good will: Labour plus one cable I had to pay for 37.50 was a grand total of 301.60.

Summary: Multiple problems with latches both doors. Passenger side was sticking at one point. I can't locate it in my records but I know the passenger door latch was lubed...if not replaced.

Unless the latch mechanism has been redesigned I expect future problems with the latches.

Probably will never give up my Smart (its in semi-retirement). Still get great gas mileage (3.9L/100 recently) and many stories to tell.


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scwmcan
post May 17 2012 - 11:58 AM
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Just added mine, the doors refused to close properly for the second time, I did lube the mechanism and they seem to be working again, but want count on the lasting forever, need to take them out agin to really get them cleaned and lubed.


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Scott Martini
2005 Fortwo Passion Cabriolet
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Overkll
post Jun 1 2012 - 02:23 PM
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Mine has been added. The latch was replaced under warranty 2 years ago. Stuck open again today.

My car has been serviced 100% at the stealership, but lubing the mechanism doesn't appear to be part of the so-called service. I'm sure they'd happily replace it for $400. Removed it and it works still, so clean and lube and take care of it myself now!


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2006 Pulse smart fortwo (June 19, 2007) - star blue metallic/black tridion/twister blue/delipped/door pods (modded for my home speaker DIY)/VIFA DX25TG/Mach5 MLI-65/Kenwood KSC-SW1/ECLIPSE CD8454/side turn signals/FIAMM horn/tinted windows/side windows self-tinted (need to use some spray tint soon)/Blindschleide exhaust...
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gman2000
post Aug 3 2012 - 08:43 PM
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My driver side door is stuck. I never lubed it, I was having pretty much all of the problems in the previous posts and now the inner door cable is snapped.
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sbungay
post Aug 7 2012 - 10:37 AM
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Well I just finished repairing one of these. Now I don't know the names of all of the parts so I'm gonna use what I know, but here is what I learned about this problem.

On closing the door the latch hits the striker and rotates upwards. The lower jaw of the latch acts like a pawl wheel on which a pawl above it rides. There are two spots where the pawl can lock the pawl wheel into position, if you close the door slowly you can feel this as two separate "clicks", it is what allows the door to be partially closed and still (sort-of) latched. The pawl in this mechanism is unusual in that it slides up and down between two steel plates. It appears that dirt and corrosion build up in and around the slide and the pawl begins to stick.
The door locks are a part of A and B service, perhaps because it is up out of the way the slide for the pawl is being missed, i.e. lube is sprayed DOWN into the latch but not UP around the slide. Leading to eventual failure of normal operation.

All of the above was gleaned by manually operating the door latch mechanism while peering into it's innards. I'd love to see an exploded diagram of this unit, or get my hands on a sample that could be torn down and examined. The dealer wants $256.00 for this assembly of stamped steel components, I'd peg it's actual cost at about $10.00 to $15.00 (which is probably high for a mass produced part), with a reasonable retail of probably $39 - $49.

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Francesco
post Aug 7 2012 - 10:42 AM
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Is there a dry lube that can be used on the latch mechanism itself -- especially the exposed parts -- that will inhibit the accumulation of dirt and particulates? Lubricating with white grease or HHS2000 is just inviting the inevitable.


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Francesco



2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|Wolo horn|No More Slammin'|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles||coming up Blindy|Forge TIK|Bilstein|torque damper|Morimoto||wishlist Monoblock A|more leather||
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bilgladstone
post Aug 7 2012 - 12:06 PM
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Locksmith's graphite. Comes in a small squeeze tube "puffer".

Bil sun.gif


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Alex
post Aug 7 2012 - 01:59 PM
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Corrosion is also a big factor, which graphite does not protect against. In drier dusty areas I absolutely believe that graphite works very well indeed for locks, latches and similar mechanisms. In wet areas, especially where road salt is used a good lubricant such as the Wurth product, Super-Lube or similar synthetic oil based is better. I don't like white spray grease, doesn't penetrate enough and remains too sticky and sludgy.
I know conventional wisdom has it that only graphite should ever be used in locks, but I don't believe that to be true in wet corrosive conditions.
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lakeside
post Aug 26 2012 - 12:21 PM
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Well, my passenger door lock just failed. The driver's side lock failed two years, same problem, the door won't latch shut. I took the lock off, 15 minutes work, five of which is just figuring out how the parts come apart, and now I'm going to lubricate the h.. out of the latch. Can't hurt and maybe avoid $260 (ouch) for a new assembly. angry.gif

I did fill in an on-line Transport Canada complaint form though. They shouldn't fail like they do.

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lakeside
post Aug 26 2012 - 01:54 PM
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Well I took the door apart and removed the lock. I turned the lock upside down and zapped it with WD40. I turned the lock upside down so the fluid wouldn"t drain into the solenoid.

It turns out there's a spring loaded brass "button" that should be spring loaded in the down position. It was stuck in the up position which wouldn't allow the pawl to latch. Took me 45 minutes to remove, clean and re-install the lock.

It's an easy job with the hardest past getting the plastic door panel off and back on. It does take some slapping on the panel with your hand to unsnap and then re-snap the panel. Takes a bit of technique but not really all that hard.

If your door won"t latch try, cleaning the mechanism. It can't make it worse and could save you a trip to the dealer and maybe a $400 repair bill.
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bilgladstone
post Aug 26 2012 - 02:48 PM
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This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.


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Note that WD40 is not a proper lubricant. It was invented as a water displacing (WD) agent. Better to use an actual penetrating- or creep-lubricant. I applied Wurth HHS2000 several years ago and never a problem since.



FWIW,
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David_18
post Aug 26 2012 - 03:33 PM
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Chain lube is good??


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bilgladstone
post Aug 26 2012 - 04:25 PM
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This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.


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Some people have used that with success.


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