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Transport Canada investigating Smart Fortwo door latch
Alex
post Dec 15 2011 - 06:52 PM
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I have regularly lubed mine, no problems that TC wants to hear about yet, but I have noticed some stickiness in the action. A removal and thorough cleaning may be on my future task list.
160K on the car.
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AaronVee
post Dec 16 2011 - 05:15 AM
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How do I properly lube my doors mightymousetech ?

I don't want my doors to fail. Yikes


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lebikerboy
post Dec 16 2011 - 06:22 AM
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http://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides/fortw...handle-fix.html


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Alex
post Jan 18 2012 - 08:08 AM
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My drivers side won't close! Yay! Able to free it up, I guess a removal and clean is in my near future. Reported.

This post has been edited by Alex: Jan 18 2012 - 08:14 AM
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KKSMART05
post Feb 20 2012 - 02:50 PM
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I just added my door latch (passenger side) problem experienced on my '05.


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bigdavediode
post Feb 22 2012 - 07:57 AM
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QUOTE (ianjay @ Dec 8 2011 - 02:35 PM) *
Wow, maybe this time something will get done about this problem? I don't think anyone had a door fly open while moving,


I had a door fly open while moving, more than a few times. (At minus 10 or 20, too!) I couldn't latch the door properly because it was frozen open but I thought I could hold it closed and drive to work. It didn't end well -- not only did I freeze, but g-forces are a bitch. I managed to do it, somehow, though. No other way to get to work.
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ogopogo
post Mar 1 2012 - 12:12 PM
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Reported my 2006 diesel today. Passenger door would not latch last week. I will lube but this should not happen.
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thejohnny
post Mar 1 2012 - 04:01 PM
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not sure if what i have to say qualifies for failure of door latch.being just purchasing smart car 05 pulse , noticed drivers door would not shut every-time and had to slam to get it closed i just lubed all hinges and latches all around hence seems to of fixed symptoms


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CANMAN
post Mar 1 2012 - 06:42 PM
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Lubing the latches may only be a temporary fix especially if some moisture got in there and freezes.
Complete removal, cleaning, and internal lubrication seems to be the way to go.
Or complain to Transport Canada and hope they make Mercedes replace latches for free.
Canman


--------------------
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2006 smarty
post Mar 13 2012 - 10:42 AM
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just e-mailed my sticky door handle on the drivers side

2006 smart fortwo coupe, pure with a/c, ~ 49,000 km

This post has been edited by 2006 smarty: Mar 13 2012 - 10:43 AM
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Kent&Alex
post Apr 13 2012 - 09:57 AM
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Latch failed on ours last fall preventing the car from locking. Got it repaired at Overseas Motors at a cost to $400. Reported.
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swl
post Apr 24 2012 - 04:37 PM
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missed this post until now. Added my failure to the list. The more complaints the more likely something can be done.
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imsmartin
post May 17 2012 - 10:07 AM
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I just reported the 2 latch problems I tracked in my repair spreadsheet:

Nov 22 2007: Locked IN the car in London, ON. FOB and drivers door would not open the door in every combination of FOB lock/unlock and door handle I could think of. Latch replaced by MB on Nov 29 2007. (I left the mall I was at and returned to my hotel. Back at the hotel the door magically (to me) opened. I had called MB - from within the car - pretty angry that day at 450pm explaining 'I am LOCKED in my car').

Nov 12, 2010: Driver's door would not close intermittently. Difficult to open and close. Latch again defective. MB paid for the part. I paid for the labour as they were not extending labour as good will: Labour plus one cable I had to pay for 37.50 was a grand total of 301.60.

Summary: Multiple problems with latches both doors. Passenger side was sticking at one point. I can't locate it in my records but I know the passenger door latch was lubed...if not replaced.

Unless the latch mechanism has been redesigned I expect future problems with the latches.

Probably will never give up my Smart (its in semi-retirement). Still get great gas mileage (3.9L/100 recently) and many stories to tell.


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scwmcan
post May 17 2012 - 11:58 AM
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Just added mine, the doors refused to close properly for the second time, I did lube the mechanism and they seem to be working again, but want count on the lasting forever, need to take them out agin to really get them cleaned and lubed.


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Overkll
post Jun 1 2012 - 02:23 PM
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Mine has been added. The latch was replaced under warranty 2 years ago. Stuck open again today.

My car has been serviced 100% at the stealership, but lubing the mechanism doesn't appear to be part of the so-called service. I'm sure they'd happily replace it for $400. Removed it and it works still, so clean and lube and take care of it myself now!


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gman2000
post Aug 3 2012 - 08:43 PM
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My driver side door is stuck. I never lubed it, I was having pretty much all of the problems in the previous posts and now the inner door cable is snapped.
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sbungay
post Aug 7 2012 - 10:37 AM
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Well I just finished repairing one of these. Now I don't know the names of all of the parts so I'm gonna use what I know, but here is what I learned about this problem.

On closing the door the latch hits the striker and rotates upwards. The lower jaw of the latch acts like a pawl wheel on which a pawl above it rides. There are two spots where the pawl can lock the pawl wheel into position, if you close the door slowly you can feel this as two separate "clicks", it is what allows the door to be partially closed and still (sort-of) latched. The pawl in this mechanism is unusual in that it slides up and down between two steel plates. It appears that dirt and corrosion build up in and around the slide and the pawl begins to stick.
The door locks are a part of A and B service, perhaps because it is up out of the way the slide for the pawl is being missed, i.e. lube is sprayed DOWN into the latch but not UP around the slide. Leading to eventual failure of normal operation.

All of the above was gleaned by manually operating the door latch mechanism while peering into it's innards. I'd love to see an exploded diagram of this unit, or get my hands on a sample that could be torn down and examined. The dealer wants $256.00 for this assembly of stamped steel components, I'd peg it's actual cost at about $10.00 to $15.00 (which is probably high for a mass produced part), with a reasonable retail of probably $39 - $49.

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Francesco
post Aug 7 2012 - 10:42 AM
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Is there a dry lube that can be used on the latch mechanism itself -- especially the exposed parts -- that will inhibit the accumulation of dirt and particulates? Lubricating with white grease or HHS2000 is just inviting the inevitable.


--------------------
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles||coming up Blindy|Bilstein|torque damper|Morimoto||wishlist Monoblock A|more leather||
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bilgladstone
post Aug 7 2012 - 12:06 PM
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Locksmith's graphite. Comes in a small squeeze tube "puffer".

Bil sun.gif


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Alex
post Aug 7 2012 - 01:59 PM
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Corrosion is also a big factor, which graphite does not protect against. In drier dusty areas I absolutely believe that graphite works very well indeed for locks, latches and similar mechanisms. In wet areas, especially where road salt is used a good lubricant such as the Wurth product, Super-Lube or similar synthetic oil based is better. I don't like white spray grease, doesn't penetrate enough and remains too sticky and sludgy.
I know conventional wisdom has it that only graphite should ever be used in locks, but I don't believe that to be true in wet corrosive conditions.
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lakeside
post Aug 26 2012 - 12:21 PM
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Well, my passenger door lock just failed. The driver's side lock failed two years, same problem, the door won't latch shut. I took the lock off, 15 minutes work, five of which is just figuring out how the parts come apart, and now I'm going to lubricate the h.. out of the latch. Can't hurt and maybe avoid $260 (ouch) for a new assembly. angry.gif

I did fill in an on-line Transport Canada complaint form though. They shouldn't fail like they do.

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lakeside
post Aug 26 2012 - 01:54 PM
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Well I took the door apart and removed the lock. I turned the lock upside down and zapped it with WD40. I turned the lock upside down so the fluid wouldn"t drain into the solenoid.

It turns out there's a spring loaded brass "button" that should be spring loaded in the down position. It was stuck in the up position which wouldn't allow the pawl to latch. Took me 45 minutes to remove, clean and re-install the lock.

It's an easy job with the hardest past getting the plastic door panel off and back on. It does take some slapping on the panel with your hand to unsnap and then re-snap the panel. Takes a bit of technique but not really all that hard.

If your door won"t latch try, cleaning the mechanism. It can't make it worse and could save you a trip to the dealer and maybe a $400 repair bill.
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bilgladstone
post Aug 26 2012 - 02:48 PM
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Note that WD40 is not a proper lubricant. It was invented as a water displacing (WD) agent. Better to use an actual penetrating- or creep-lubricant. I applied Wurth HHS2000 several years ago and never a problem since.



FWIW,
Bil sun.gif


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David_18
post Aug 26 2012 - 03:33 PM
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Chain lube is good??


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bilgladstone
post Aug 26 2012 - 04:25 PM
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Some people have used that with success.


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dieselkiki
post Aug 26 2012 - 08:18 PM
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QUOTE (bilgladstone @ Aug 26 2012 - 02:48 PM) *
Note that WD40 is not a proper lubricant. It was invented as a water displacing (WD) agent. Better to use an actual penetrating- or creep-lubricant. I applied Wurth HHS2000 several years ago and never a problem since.



FWIW,
Bil sun.gif


HHS2000?? It's not a little bit too sticky and adhedive?? I used HHS until my back glass latch refused to operate as it should. The mechanism was completely sticky and the road dust as stuck inside.

Since this mishap, I use a less sticky lubricant to lube the door latchs and strikers. The one I use is PL-100 from prolab. Better the WD-40 but less sticky than HHS 2000-5000. I use it from 2 years on every maintenance and no more problems occure with the doors. wink.gif

http://www.prolab-technologies.com/produits-218-1-pl-100.php


--------------------
- smart fortwo 2006 (C7) pulse black/black run on 50% straight vegetable oil
- smart fortwo 2005 (convert into smart 100% electric powered).
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bilgladstone
post Aug 26 2012 - 09:11 PM
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This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.


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I have not found the HHS to be too sticky - not enough to cause any problems after 2-3 years anyway. But I tend to believe that the door handles and latches suffer differently depending on your local climate.

That PL-100 looks like a good alternative!

Bil sun.gif


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dieselkiki
post Aug 27 2012 - 07:36 AM
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Hmm... that's true. It's could be different. happy.gif


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- smart fortwo 2006 (C7) pulse black/black run on 50% straight vegetable oil
- smart fortwo 2005 (convert into smart 100% electric powered).
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Mike T
post Aug 27 2012 - 09:38 AM
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HHS 2000 is crazy sticky!


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bilgladstone
post Aug 27 2012 - 03:31 PM
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This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.


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HHS 2000 is VERY creepy - migrates along cables etc. Maybe Okanagan 35C summer weather thins it out dunno.gif


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swl
post Sep 15 2012 - 07:59 AM
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Received a phone call from researcher from Transport Canada. 10 minute questionaire. He said he had a bunch of people submit it wink.gif

The wheels may be rolling.
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Duck
post Oct 24 2012 - 04:55 PM
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Sigh, again sad.gif

Attached File  Failure.jpg ( 85.02K ) Number of downloads: 49


The passenger's side failed a while back while we were in Pittsburgh on a trip - drove home with my other half's shoelaces holding the door shut. Now the driver's latch has bit the dust - no amount of jiggling or slamming will get it to stay. I guess I'll have to pull it apart, too.

-Iain


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2010 Toyota Gen3 Prius Normandy (N7) - Hybrid Synergy Drive active!
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Duck
post Oct 25 2012 - 04:30 PM
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Somewhat hilariously, now the passenger's side latch has failed again. I went out to try and fix the driver's side one, and when I opened the passenger's side door, it refused to shut.

So now my car is sitting here with both doors refusing to shut. Do not have time for this...

-Iain


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SoulSurgeon
post Dec 18 2012 - 09:40 PM
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On very cold days, the driver side door latch has frozen up and once open will not re-engage the lock. We have to jimmy a rope and tie it shut. Seems to happen overnight..once the car warmed up, it went away.

We now park the Smart in our garage with Block Heater....so, we haven't had this problem in over a year.
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scwmcan
post Dec 19 2012 - 06:21 PM
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I guess you may not have noticed, but the latest news from about 1.5 weeks ago is that transport Canada has issued a recall for the 2005 and 2006 smarts for the door latches to be replaced, we are just waiting on parts and recall letters, and then they are all supposed to be replaced at no charge.


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cheapohubby
post Dec 22 2012 - 07:00 PM
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Hmmm; not sure if they're fixing the right thing here. It says they're replacing the latch; but in my experience, the problem wasn't the latch, but the cable and the door handle. Mine was stuck this afternoon. Pulled it apart, and the latch mechanism is operating smoothly. But under pressure, either the cable or the door handle are binding.

Has anybody got an idea what the modification to the latch was?
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bilgladstone
post Dec 22 2012 - 07:52 PM
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I'm with you on this, cheapo'. I had door handles replaced twice and both times it was sticking cables from that goofy hairpin twist design, not the latching mechanism at all.

But others with radical failures HAVE been the latchbox itself.

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Alex
post Dec 22 2012 - 08:36 PM
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Not sure about the cables being as likely as all that. The sticking member is what applies pull to the cable, and as such it needs to be strong enough to reliably return the cable under poor conditions for a reasonably acceptable lifespan. This it fails to do!
Agreed, the cable design is poor, but it is all part of the door secure latching mechanism as designed and built by Mercedes, and subject to a recall. If the cable is truly the only flaw, Transport Canada would be happy to accept that and modify the recall to allow Mercedes to replace only the at-fault cable assembly on the cars, and owners would get a car that reliably latches the door. Ones who have paid to have new latches installed may be peeved and should be able to get a refund, but I wouldn't hold my breath.
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cheapohubby
post Dec 23 2012 - 03:30 PM
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QUOTE (Alex @ Dec 22 2012 - 08:36 PM) *
Not sure about the cables being as likely as all that. The sticking member is what applies pull to the cable, and as such it needs to be strong enough to reliably return the cable under poor conditions for a reasonably acceptable lifespan. This it fails to do!

In my experience, as the door handle starts exhibiting this unreliability, it's also getting harder to open. Increasing the latch spring strength to the point that the cable retracts under the worst situation; you'll probably not be able to open the door.
Anyway; we'll see what happens with the recall. We've been fortunate, and the only time I had to resort to replacing a handle; it was still under warranty. Hopefully they'll be quick about getting the parts and notices sent out; Squish needs to go in for a couple of other things too.
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AHZELA
post Dec 23 2012 - 04:03 PM
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Whats the deal with the notification process? Will Mercedes handle sending out information to those who purchased the car, or will the government be involved sending to registered owners? How will second and third owners be notified I guess is my question.

Looking forward to this fix.



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Mike T
post Dec 23 2012 - 06:55 PM
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If Mercedes does not know that you own the car, you must tell them. Otherwise you will not be notified. Alternatively, you could call a dealer in the spring and ask for the recall to be done.


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robm
post Dec 24 2012 - 04:17 AM
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to be safe I am going to let them know that I own mine. maybe when I drop by the dealer to buy oil filters...


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ray4406
post Jan 24 2013 - 05:02 AM
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Member No.: 12,412



I emailed weber motors here in edmonton yesterday at 8:30 am and they called me back at 9:15 am and set up the appointment to change the door handles next week I will let everyone know how it goes after I get it done. I will get my radio code at the same time. being a newbie is there anything else I should ask them about while I am there? cool.gif


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2006 pulse cdi named pepe le pew 1996 dodge 2500 4x4 diesel 132560 km
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lakeside
post Jan 31 2013 - 10:14 AM
Post #64





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Joined: Feb 19th, 06
Member No.: 649



I'm not a happy camper. I scheduled a visit to my local dealer, not Star, to have the door locks changed on my '05 Passion. I had one lock changed (driver's side) three years ago ($600 thank you very much) and I took apart the other one (passenger's side) late last year 'cause it wasn't latching.

I get a call from the dealer late in the afternoon, after they'd had the car since 8:00 in the morning to ask me what I needed done. angry.gif After I somewhat patiently told them my appointment was to have the recall done they said they'd call back. Twenty minutes later I'm told my VIN wasn't part of the recall and I could pick my car up.

I did a bit of research and it appears there are 10,242 2005-2006 Smarts on the recall. An unofficial number of Smarts sold during those two years is 10, 239. What are the chances that mine is one of the three, yes THREE, not part of the recall???

I haven't gone back to the dealer yet as I still need to calm down and get in touch with my inner self laugh.gif

Has anyone else been given a run around on the door lock recall?
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bilgladstone
post Jan 31 2013 - 10:34 AM
Post #65


This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.


Group: Regular Members
Posts: 12,116
Joined: Jun 12th, 05
From: Kelowna, BC
Member No.: 95



Odds your car is not part of the recall? Nil.
Odds that your smart centre is screwing you over? The opposite of nil.

Pick your car up and never go back there again. Be sure your VIN and current contact details are in the M-B system so that you will get the mailer when the recall rolls out. Send your contact details to cac.canada@mercedes-benz.ca

We're still waiting to hear from whoever will be the lucky first person to have this recall done.

Deep breathing in through the nose and out through the mouth: "In go the butterflies, out go the bees. In go the butterflies, out go the bees." smile.gif

Bil sun.gif


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Huronlad
post Jan 31 2013 - 10:43 AM
Post #66





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Joined: May 10th, 08
From: Seaforth, Ontario
Member No.: 5,864



How many other manufacturers fix recall items before parts are available and recall letters sent out???????


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"Kalliste" 2005 Bay Grey Pure, tach/clock pods, panoramic roof, a/c, soft touch, ignition free windows, vertical wipers, Euro turn signals, LED fog lights, LED turn signal side marker lights, Scanguage II, LED interior light, LED license plate lights, LED reverse lights, LED high brake light, UWC wheel covers, tinted windows, Wet Okole seat covers with carbon fibre heaters, under seat drawer, EBC brakes and rotors, Eibach and Boge suspension, Stebel air horn.


"Labeeba" 2011 metallic silver Pure, tach/clock pods, A/C, arm rest, Design 1 alloy wheels, fog lights, all panels colour matched, heated seats, storage bin, oem storage cover, Area451 cruise control, Ultra Gauge, Team Dynamic Smartie 16" x 7.5" wheels, Yokohama S-Drive 215/40R16 tires.
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bilgladstone
post Jan 31 2013 - 11:02 AM
Post #67


This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.


Group: Regular Members
Posts: 12,116
Joined: Jun 12th, 05
From: Kelowna, BC
Member No.: 95



It's upsetting not so much because the recall is not yet active and the dealership - obviously - didn't have the parts for the job yet, but that instead of telling lakeside those facts, they simply told (lied to) him that his car does not qualify for the recall.

Now - benefit of the doubt - maybe the dealer didn't know anything about the recall, or the status of the rollout, but that is no excuse to talk out his a55 like he did which, by the way, is epidemic at some dealerships.

Or maybe it was a low-down sneaky strategy to turn a car away from a future no-profit job that they didn't want to do anyway...

Is it any wonder that car sales persons (and service writers?) always poll as some of the most untrustworthy people in the country?

B sun.gif


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Francesco
post Jan 31 2013 - 11:41 AM
Post #68


CsC BoD Member


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Joined: May 9th, 07
From: West Island of Montreal
Member No.: 2,983



It's certainly not "no profit" to a dealership. Warranty and recall work is billed by the dealership to MB Canada, and MBC in turn pays the dealership. Work is work. Better, because there is no time wasted on diagnostics, recall work is a no-brainer, likely paid at flat rate.


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Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles||coming up Blindy|Bilstein|torque damper|Morimoto||wishlist Monoblock A|more leather||
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Mike T
post Jan 31 2013 - 01:15 PM
Post #69


Ordered our first smart in 2002!


Group: Directors
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Joined: May 24th, 05
From: Ladysmith, Vancouver Island, BC CDN
Member No.: 5



That is inexcusable, they lied to you. The three cars we don't have in the VIN inventory are likely the Transport Canada crash tested cars.


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2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet 450 B-remap
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A pkg, Winter pkg.
2008 Mercedes-Benz B 200
1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection
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TheBestJohn
post Jan 31 2013 - 03:11 PM
Post #70





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Posts: 52
Joined: Dec 1st, 11
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Member No.: 10,812



They told me that same crap about my Vin not being in the recall.... Said they'd check and get back to me... Still waiting
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