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@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) (like copper or aluminium)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) I'll try with something hard, but not as hard as steel
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:42 PM) tolsen has posted about it before. Personally I thought a couple hours of tinkering was time better spent elsewhere, and the $50 for the tool well spent
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) you need a hardwood, soft won't do
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) no worries, got the idea
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:40 PM) the hole being the exact size of the rod, not the disc. Sorry about the syntax
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:39 PM) A wooden clamp would work well. Drill a hole in a wooden disc the exact size of the strut rod's diameter, then cut the disc in half and add flats
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:13 PM) leather is too soft, as is rubber. I was thinking about either copper wire wound around the strut or tinfoil. and a vise Grip
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:11 PM) An old leather belt might work better, but I had no luck with it
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:10 PM) (I was thinking about a vise grip and tinfoil. you know, tinfoil is aluminum, and can potentailly protect the shock, and a vbise grip is FAR more useful than the clamp, but this is me trying to Mcgiver a solution, as usual...)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) ah, ok, then
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) The strut spins freely, you need the special clamping tool to provide flats for a big open ended wrench (with this tool 47 mm)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Can't I use LOTS of wd40, a t47 bit and a breaker bar?
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:01 PM) The strut clamp is a necessity. Worth every cent I paid -- making something similar myself would have taken me more time than I'd like to spend in order to save the few bucks.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:00 PM) c'mon! I'll use twine. And optimism.
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 01:59 PM) I honestly didn't need them on the broken spring, and while handy for the lowering springs, not necessary.
@  dmoonen : (27 August 2015 - 08:06 AM) Spring compresssors are still needed. .Tolson why must you take the hard way to everything
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 03:59 PM) nah, the springs are broken, and I can use the ye old zip-tie trick. But since I'm going to put eibachs (-25mm) I won't worry.]
@  tolsen : (26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM) Clamp type spring compressors should not be used since the damage both protective coating and spring.
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) The spring compressors you can borrow at Canadian tire
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) I have the Mercedes strut clamp you can borrow just pay shipping and if you break it you buy it. Pm me
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 08:51 AM) thanks, guys! And... does anyone in Vancouver area have the clamp so I can "rent"?
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:43 PM) To and from SK*. I'm just waiting on some bits to finish the Golf build
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:41 PM) Still driving it, drove it to and from and average 4.7l/100l loaded to the brim.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 06:19 PM) Dillen how much did you end up getting for the wagon?
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:13 PM) And if replacing the plastic bellows (dust boots) on the struts, cut a good 1.5" off the bottoms of them or they'll just compress around the stops and get in the way of the clamp tool
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:11 PM) also, take a new knife blade and cut about an inch off the bump stops unless you love bottoming out on small bumps.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) wont need it for the Eibachs
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) If the springs are broken at the top as suspected, the spring compressor might not be necessary.
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:49 PM) And a normal spring compressor
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Strut clamp tool*
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Lots of penetrating oil on the top nut and see if you can borrow a strut tool of you don't have the proper air tools
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:08 PM) Now, let's see if I can replace them without getting myself killed...
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:07 PM) Got the Eibach springs!
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 12:29 PM) Lol
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) ok, maybe MikeT
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) Who doesn't? Hehehe
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 07:46 AM) sounds like you have a decent to do list. .
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 08:00 PM) Perhaps even throw a set of powerflex purple bushings, and a set of 16" "space" wheels, but not now...)
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) ( I WILL replace the entire control arm, with all 4 ball joints, drop links, all the upper bearings and a nice set of B8s. But not now. Maybe by December, when I get money for that...
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 07:57 PM) Nah, the steering damper is fine (I was worried about that too), and actually, the bearing is not bad, its just the pad that is glazed.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) also check your steering damper. If the damage is already extensive, good chance the damper has bled out like mine had
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) but honestly if you are removing the control arms, you may as well replace the other parts. Use the Evilution or FQ guides, and add in tolsen's tips about reversing the BJ bolts, and using SS bolts and nuts if possible.
@  Francesco : (23 August 2015 - 02:04 PM) The right bearing might turn out to be a seized caliper or delaminated pad...
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 09:20 PM) I lifted the car today, and upon inspection, I saw that the ball joints and the drop links are fine. The bushings are probably busted (they are noisy and rough), and the right bearing is heavy and noisy. I couldn't see if the springs are broken or not, but both top collars are loose. (I'll trust CANMAN on that one). But I was getting ready to replace ALL ball joints, drop links, control arms, shocks...
@  Francesco : (22 August 2015 - 07:58 PM) So who was it that told you all that stuff was kaput? I seem to remember being puzzled about how extensive your list was
@  CANMAN : (22 August 2015 - 06:52 PM) Because both springs are broken at the top.
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) Oh, and the right bearing is kaput.
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) I finally lifted my smart. And to my surprise, both front springs, shocks, drop links and ball joints seem to be in good condition! What are NOT good are the top collars. Neither springs are sitting on them. How come?
@  Surturiel : (22 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Hi, smart owners

Photo

Brake Calipers - E18 Or Penta Socket ?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 RDL

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 12:56 PM

There were two main threads on changing Brake Pads which caused me anxiety. The E18 socket approach appeared to be nonsense because the E18 is based on 6 sided Torx while the problem bolt was 5 sided. The pentagonal socket is not easy to find. Penta_Bolt_annotated.jpg MightyMouseTech saved my day with his clear instruction which I support with a few pictures. Tilting the caliper rather than removing it. Brake_Caliper_annotated.jpg In short MightyMouseTech warns DO NOT REMOVE THE 5 SIDED BOLT. The picture above demonstrates that the Brake Pads are changed by tilting the calipers rather than removing them. Only the top bolt has to be removed. NOTE: the bolt, with blue thread lock, was placed in the caliper only to complete the picture.
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#2 Francesco

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 04:15 PM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...
Francesco

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#3 Mike T

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:59 PM

I removed mine on one side only, to change the calliper support. Interestingly, the replacement support does not use a pentagonal bolt.But yah, why remove it for a mere pad change?

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#4 Bessy

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:10 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

For Sale: 2006 Smart ForTwo Pulse , Twister BlueGrey Interior, Star Blue Metallic Panels, Plastic Roof, Black Cell, Black Windows, and Alloys(in Summer). Named Bessy, lives in Burlington, ON
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Mods Done: ScanGaugeII, Side Markers Now also Turn Signals and L.E.D., L.E.D.s in Axle Tubes as Extra Brake Lights, EGR Emulator/EGR Removed, Vertical Wipers, Air Inlet Delipped, 120V Marine Inlet for Blockheater, AUX-IN for iPod/MP3, Remap by Smart142, K&N Drop In Air Filter, Cabin Filter, Eibach Pro Springs, Winter wheels are 4 wide rims with 4 skinny tires, Summers are 155 & 165 Continental Pro Contact.

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#5 RDL

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:22 AM

I wish I had noticed the Evilution tutorial. http://www.evilution...ndex.php?id=279 It was my impression that several threads advocated the removal of the 5 sided bolt, to replace the pads, which is the reason for starting a new thread.
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#6 Francesco

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:04 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

No, for that you remove both E18s on the caliper bracket. The the slider is just 13 and 17 mm wrenches and some muscle. FWIW I found it necessary to use a U-joint and breaker bar with a short pipe extension to get enough torque to break the E18s free. http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html ETA: I just noticed in my post above I misremembered. The slider doesn't use the E18, just a 13 mm bolt.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver/heated leather/PLUS/sound <strong>mods</strong> OE cruise/Cabriotec heated glass rear window/custom red silicone cdi TIK/all-LED EU lamps front & rear/OE mud-flaps/colour-coded/garage opener/wiper nozzle/SGII/remap/spin-on oil filter/K&N air/RS grille/painted smart mods de dion caps/Hella Micro DE fogs/MDC sucker/R1 Concepts brakes/TK's restrictor/LED angel eyes/stainless EGR delete/RS paddles/HEL braided brake lines/Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs/PowerFlex bushings/Michalak 16" wheels <strong>coming up</strong> Blindy/custom brakes/torque damper/Morimoto

#7 Alex

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:22 AM

Ideally I think that pentabolt should be removed after long service to lube it. Perhaps with a rotor change, which is usually every second pad change. "Lubed for life" may apply in a warm dry salt-free climate, but not for our cars!

#8 tolsen

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 12:13 PM

I replaced those penta bolts with standard hex bolts years ago. You should all do same at the earliest opportunity.

By the way, it looks like you may have a problem.
Posted Image
Has the rubber gaiter sheared off in way of the narrowest section?

This can easily happen when you do not remove both bolts but swing calliper on lower bolt instead.

Edited by tolsen, 15 October 2012 - 12:16 PM.


#9 diesel4me

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 10:48 AM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...

[size=3]Have you found a source for a penta bolt socket & if so, what size is it? I like to clean & lubricate the caliper sliders because of the road salt that's used where I live rusts everything terribly.

Edited by diesel4me, 27 November 2012 - 11:25 AM.





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