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@  Mike T : (24 March 2015 - 06:21 PM) If they and you are sure of the diagnosis, it's a good idea to go ahead.
@  Chicklet : (24 March 2015 - 11:21 AM) Love my little car but lately has a big appetite on expensive parts! Haha
@  Chicklet : (24 March 2015 - 11:20 AM) This question is about the oil pump chain problem from a couple of days ago. Heard that the sound(a chain sort of rattle when you let off the accelerator) could also be from the clutch plate. Does this sound like something that is a possibility. MB in Nanaimo wants about $2200.00 to change the oil pump change. Just trying to get a little more feed back on others who have had some same issues.
@  Bessy : (24 March 2015 - 11:16 AM) Hey!
@  Chicklet : (24 March 2015 - 11:15 AM) Hi
@  dmoonen : (22 March 2015 - 05:52 PM) Mhm the turbo does sounds off. . like its saying help me.
@  Mike T : (22 March 2015 - 12:18 PM) Yeah it is whistling too much due to the bent fin.
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 12:13 PM) Just a lot of whistle for me.
@  kdubya : (22 March 2015 - 12:11 PM) hmmmm, sounds like mine.....maybe I should check. :( I did hear a buzzing I think. Is that what you meant?
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 12:01 PM) Listen :)
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 12:00 PM) Nothing related with the starting problem. It just make more sound than usual.
@  kdubya : (22 March 2015 - 11:50 AM) If its been like that for a while and works great what makes you think something is wrong with it now?
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 11:48 AM) I know, it is like that since 4-5 years, but it still work great.
@  Mike T : (22 March 2015 - 11:41 AM) Yup that turbo has eaten something, very nasty!
@  kdubya : (22 March 2015 - 11:29 AM) somethings def wrong. That's how the turbo looks in my parts car that had an oil pump failure. And it looks like one of your fins are bent
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 10:34 AM) I think something wrong with my turbo... https://lh4.googleus...0322_133347.jpg
@  Francesco : (22 March 2015 - 08:35 AM) gawd I hate that stuff. She gets it done every year. And her 12 yr old car w/60k has more signs of rust than our 13 yr old Accord w/160k that's never been rust treated.
@  Francesco : (22 March 2015 - 08:33 AM) "Rust proofing" places do worse. Mom's Corolla was overheating last summer. Popped the hood, there was a half inch of black (commercial) rust-proof spray on both sides of her rad.
@  dmoonen : (21 March 2015 - 03:14 PM) Which is still a pain . . and alllllllot of time
@  Francesco : (21 March 2015 - 01:33 PM) You need a cooling fin comb
@  dmoonen : (21 March 2015 - 01:24 PM) Yeah it flattens the fins causing over heating conditions. . . Not ideal
@  Mike T : (21 March 2015 - 09:57 AM) never use high pressure washers on a radiator or intercooler!
@  Msdumo : (21 March 2015 - 09:50 AM) msdumo, a newbie trying out shout
@  Clancy : (21 March 2015 - 08:29 AM) When I got my smart everything was clean & shiny behind the grill at 9000 Km. Now at 12000 Km it is dirty & grimey from the road. Is it OK to take off the front grill & spray shampoo & rinse there at the coin-op?
@  RoadHound : (21 March 2015 - 06:01 AM) http://www.amazon.co...Z3rL&ref=plSrch
@  RoadHound : (21 March 2015 - 05:59 AM) Found this on amazon and I don't know where to put it. http://www.amazon.co...a9LL&ref=plSrch
@  Chicklet : (20 March 2015 - 03:25 PM) Thanks, that good information. Will check it out.
@  Mike T : (20 March 2015 - 12:01 PM) OK with that further information I suspect the oil pump drive chain. Take the oil filter out, cut it open and look for metal flakes inside.
@  Chicklet : (20 March 2015 - 11:49 AM) Thanks Mike T for responding. It almost sounds more grinding/clicking like a chain having too much play. Never gearing up just when slowing or gearing down. Could there be filing in the transmission or low on fluid do this. Would a transmission flush be the first coarse of action. Thanks for your thoughts.
@  Mike T : (19 March 2015 - 07:46 PM) I am thinking of an exhaust leak.
@  Chicklet : (19 March 2015 - 03:34 PM) Sorry posted before I could say what the problem is. When my car shifts down it sounds like jake brakes on a large truck going sown hill( maybe not that loud thought) This occurs when I let off the gas. Doesn't sound good. I do not have problems shifting or anything just noisy when it shifts down. Could transmission fluid be low?
@  Chicklet : (19 March 2015 - 03:29 PM) Its been awhile since I have been here, but I having an issue not sure where i should start without incurring undo exspensive.
@  Chicklet : (19 March 2015 - 03:28 PM) Hi,

Photo

Brake Calipers - E18 Or Penta Socket ?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 RDL

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 12:56 PM

There were two main threads on changing Brake Pads which caused me anxiety. The E18 socket approach appeared to be nonsense because the E18 is based on 6 sided Torx while the problem bolt was 5 sided. The pentagonal socket is not easy to find. Penta_Bolt_annotated.jpg MightyMouseTech saved my day with his clear instruction which I support with a few pictures. Tilting the caliper rather than removing it. Brake_Caliper_annotated.jpg In short MightyMouseTech warns DO NOT REMOVE THE 5 SIDED BOLT. The picture above demonstrates that the Brake Pads are changed by tilting the calipers rather than removing them. Only the top bolt has to be removed. NOTE: the bolt, with blue thread lock, was placed in the caliper only to complete the picture.
2006 Smart Passion cdi - Electric heating burns a lot of Diesel

#2 Francesco

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 04:15 PM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...

Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||


#3 Mike T

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:59 PM

I removed mine on one side only, to change the calliper support. Interestingly, the replacement support does not use a pentagonal bolt.But yah, why remove it for a mere pad change?

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#4 Bessy

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:10 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

For Sale: 2006 Smart ForTwo Pulse , Twister BlueGrey Interior, Star Blue Metallic Panels, Plastic Roof, Black Cell, Black Windows, and Alloys(in Summer). Named Bessy, lives in Burlington, ON
Best Tank So Far: 3.7L/100km (Avg 4.1L/100km)
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Mods Done: ScanGaugeII, Side Markers Now also Turn Signals and L.E.D., L.E.D.s in Axle Tubes as Extra Brake Lights, EGR Emulator/EGR Removed, Vertical Wipers, Air Inlet Delipped, 120V Marine Inlet for Blockheater, AUX-IN for iPod/MP3, Remap by Smart142, K&N Drop In Air Filter, Cabin Filter, Eibach Pro Springs, Winter wheels are 4 wide rims with 4 skinny tires, Summers are 155 & 165 Continental Pro Contact.

Will sell fully serviced, New Front Pads, Fuel Filter, Safety & Etested, cleanest 2006 Pulse around!

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#5 RDL

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:22 AM

I wish I had noticed the Evilution tutorial. http://www.evilution...ndex.php?id=279 It was my impression that several threads advocated the removal of the 5 sided bolt, to replace the pads, which is the reason for starting a new thread.
2006 Smart Passion cdi - Electric heating burns a lot of Diesel

#6 Francesco

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:04 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

No, for that you remove both E18s on the caliper bracket. The the slider is just 13 and 17 mm wrenches and some muscle. FWIW I found it necessary to use a U-joint and breaker bar with a short pipe extension to get enough torque to break the E18s free. http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html ETA: I just noticed in my post above I misremembered. The slider doesn't use the E18, just a 13 mm bolt.

Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||


#7 Alex

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:22 AM

Ideally I think that pentabolt should be removed after long service to lube it. Perhaps with a rotor change, which is usually every second pad change. "Lubed for life" may apply in a warm dry salt-free climate, but not for our cars!

#8 tolsen

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 12:13 PM

I replaced those penta bolts with standard hex bolts years ago. You should all do same at the earliest opportunity.

By the way, it looks like you may have a problem.
Posted Image
Has the rubber gaiter sheared off in way of the narrowest section?

This can easily happen when you do not remove both bolts but swing calliper on lower bolt instead.

Edited by tolsen, 15 October 2012 - 12:16 PM.


#9 diesel4me

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 10:48 AM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...

[size=3]Have you found a source for a penta bolt socket & if so, what size is it? I like to clean & lubricate the caliper sliders because of the road salt that's used where I live rusts everything terribly.

Edited by diesel4me, 27 November 2012 - 11:25 AM.





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