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Brake Calipers - E18 Or Penta Socket ?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 RDL

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 12:56 PM

There were two main threads on changing Brake Pads which caused me anxiety. The E18 socket approach appeared to be nonsense because the E18 is based on 6 sided Torx while the problem bolt was 5 sided. The pentagonal socket is not easy to find. Penta_Bolt_annotated.jpg MightyMouseTech saved my day with his clear instruction which I support with a few pictures. Tilting the caliper rather than removing it. Brake_Caliper_annotated.jpg In short MightyMouseTech warns DO NOT REMOVE THE 5 SIDED BOLT. The picture above demonstrates that the Brake Pads are changed by tilting the calipers rather than removing them. Only the top bolt has to be removed. NOTE: the bolt, with blue thread lock, was placed in the caliper only to complete the picture.
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#2 Francesco

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 04:15 PM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...
Francesco

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#3 Mike T

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:59 PM

I removed mine on one side only, to change the calliper support. Interestingly, the replacement support does not use a pentagonal bolt.But yah, why remove it for a mere pad change?

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#4 Bessy

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:10 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

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#5 RDL

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:22 AM

I wish I had noticed the Evilution tutorial. http://www.evilution...ndex.php?id=279 It was my impression that several threads advocated the removal of the 5 sided bolt, to replace the pads, which is the reason for starting a new thread.
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#6 Francesco

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:04 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

No, for that you remove both E18s on the caliper bracket. The the slider is just 13 and 17 mm wrenches and some muscle. FWIW I found it necessary to use a U-joint and breaker bar with a short pipe extension to get enough torque to break the E18s free. http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html ETA: I just noticed in my post above I misremembered. The slider doesn't use the E18, just a 13 mm bolt.
Francesco

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#7 Alex

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:22 AM

Ideally I think that pentabolt should be removed after long service to lube it. Perhaps with a rotor change, which is usually every second pad change. "Lubed for life" may apply in a warm dry salt-free climate, but not for our cars!

#8 tolsen

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 12:13 PM

I replaced those penta bolts with standard hex bolts years ago. You should all do same at the earliest opportunity.

By the way, it looks like you may have a problem.
Posted Image
Has the rubber gaiter sheared off in way of the narrowest section?

This can easily happen when you do not remove both bolts but swing calliper on lower bolt instead.

Edited by tolsen, 15 October 2012 - 12:16 PM.


#9 diesel4me

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 10:48 AM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...

[size=3]Have you found a source for a penta bolt socket & if so, what size is it? I like to clean & lubricate the caliper sliders because of the road salt that's used where I live rusts everything terribly.

Edited by diesel4me, 27 November 2012 - 11:25 AM.





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