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@  kdubya : (26 November 2014 - 11:38 PM) *posted a topic in the forum with pic attached*
@  kdubya : (26 November 2014 - 11:14 PM) Bought a galletto 1260 to remap, however the only options it gives for smarts are .6, 1.5 cdi, and a .9cdi?? Neither will read my car, anyone experience this?
@  Francesco : (26 November 2014 - 09:53 PM) Thanks! Told my wife a few weeks ago that's the only thing on my Xmas wish list this year! Sister calls me the Bad Driver Magnet
@  dmoonen : (26 November 2014 - 06:53 PM) Bought a couple dash cams, ps they're on sale at staples for $44. idiot drivers pushed me to the edge
@  turbomar : (22 November 2014 - 06:33 PM) Thanks for the tip lads! Going to Princess tomorrow
@  marchanna : (22 November 2014 - 05:57 PM) Princess Auto is the best! I live less than a Km from there.
@  Bessy : (22 November 2014 - 05:53 PM) Turbomar, Princess Auto has the socket for about $3. I've done 20 or so pairs of reluctors and haven't broken a socket yet.
@  dmoonen : (22 November 2014 - 09:48 AM) Yes it is Turbomar.
@  turbomar : (22 November 2014 - 07:38 AM) Is the socket size for the drive axle bolt to hub on the 450, 12 point 21mm?
@  dmoonen : (21 November 2014 - 03:41 PM) I think glow plug gets triggered by the coolant sensor
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 12:11 PM) I couldn't tell you for sure.
@  kdubya : (21 November 2014 - 11:39 AM) i played around a bunch, entered everything i could. i didn't see it anywhere. Is it something we know the Star can do?
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:52 AM) There are a whole lot of read outs in there, so you may have to dig around a bit, but that's where I would think they'd be.
@  kdubya : (21 November 2014 - 09:45 AM) k ill check. i want to make sure they are working. just a read out of temp
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:21 AM) probably under the "Engine" section
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:20 AM) Read out is likely under Systems>N3/9 (EDG control unit) > Actual Value Indicator, somewhere.
@  FlossyTheSmart : (21 November 2014 - 09:18 AM) As in, configurable, or just a read out?
@  kdubya : (21 November 2014 - 08:58 AM) Anyone know where to find cylinder temp (glow plug function) on the Star??
@  FlossyTheSmart : (19 November 2014 - 11:38 AM) classic
@  Mike T : (19 November 2014 - 11:38 AM) Hodor
@  evotell : (19 November 2014 - 11:35 AM) Saying your own name, I don't get it?
@  dmoonen : (19 November 2014 - 10:52 AM) Saying your own name evotell :P
@  evotell : (19 November 2014 - 10:49 AM) evotell
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 06:29 PM) Well, we repaired the wires and its driving fine now... I guess I'll have to wait for another slushy day to be sure. Thanks for all the help guys!
@  Mike T : (18 November 2014 - 05:24 PM) This happened to our dearly departed green car too and the solution was that simple.
@  SkydiverChris : (18 November 2014 - 03:32 PM) Glad to hear that you may have found the cause Kurt! Keep us posted! It's almost never that simple.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 12:00 PM) cost me close to $300 to tow from the Canadian border post at Hemingford to my driveway (80 km), and my car was up on blocks for two weeks while I tracked down and resolved the issues.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 11:58 AM) jurist? During
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 11:58 AM) Yep, mine started acting up jurist a January thaw on a long steady drive through the country, then the car refused to move on a slushy day on a long steady drive on the same roads a week later. The slushy brine is both conductive and tenacious.
@  FlossyTheSmart : (18 November 2014 - 11:40 AM) That's probably it.
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 11:21 AM) So my friend with soldering skills is going to help me after work... I'm confident this will solve the problem. First slushy day we have so it must have splashed up there and shorted out.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 10:25 AM) knock on wood, no recurrence after two winters and three summers.
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 10:25 AM) then wraped all in Tesa cloth harness tape ($20 a roll at MB, about the same off ebay)
@  Francesco : (18 November 2014 - 10:24 AM) Yeah, mine was the same. I repaired the wires and coated the whole thing in Liquid Electrical Tape ($9 at CT)
@  stickman007 : (18 November 2014 - 10:20 AM) There's probably corrosion inside the sheath due to moisture getting in
@  FlossyTheSmart : (18 November 2014 - 07:29 AM) with the wires chafed, they're probably only intermittantly making good contact. Wrapping in electrical tape probably won't be able to keep the connection good.
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 07:26 AM) What if I wrap the chafed wires in electrical tape and try driving around?
@  FlossyTheSmart : (18 November 2014 - 07:21 AM) hopefully it's as simple as that!
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 07:11 AM) I immediately found 2 chafed wires at the connection to the clutch actuator!
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:49 AM) Majority of the problems are in the engine harness area right at the IC scoop. Removing the IC would give you more wiggle room and less curse words
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:47 AM) SAM to rear ecu travels under the carpet and right into the firewall behind the seats.
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:46 AM) Harness to two sections: 1:Rear ECU TO engine sensors and components. 2: Sam:Rear ECU.
@  dmoonen : (18 November 2014 - 05:44 AM) No you dont need to kurt, mainly around the intercooler scoop area and back youll be
@  KurtMan : (18 November 2014 - 04:27 AM) Do I have to remove any of the under panels to get to the harness?
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 04:33 PM) Well maybe if I need a star machine I'll send you a message Max!
@  FlossyTheSmart : (17 November 2014 - 04:20 PM) I think just me, Chris, and Troy have star machines in the Ottawa area.
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 04:03 PM) Any help would be appreciated!
@  SkydiverChris : (17 November 2014 - 03:58 PM) NOt sure if anyone out your way has a Star, but there are a couple people around Ottawa that do. If you're stuck, they may be able to help
@  KurtMan : (17 November 2014 - 03:56 PM) Thanks I appreciate it!
@  SkydiverChris : (17 November 2014 - 03:55 PM) Sorry man, if you're still stuck on the weekend, I might be convinced to make a trip out that way (unless someone else gets there before I do), but there's a tonne of stuff to try, and the Star may or may not give you something to go on.

Photo

Brake Calipers - E18 Or Penta Socket ?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 RDL

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 12:56 PM

There were two main threads on changing Brake Pads which caused me anxiety. The E18 socket approach appeared to be nonsense because the E18 is based on 6 sided Torx while the problem bolt was 5 sided. The pentagonal socket is not easy to find. Penta_Bolt_annotated.jpg MightyMouseTech saved my day with his clear instruction which I support with a few pictures. Tilting the caliper rather than removing it. Brake_Caliper_annotated.jpg In short MightyMouseTech warns DO NOT REMOVE THE 5 SIDED BOLT. The picture above demonstrates that the Brake Pads are changed by tilting the calipers rather than removing them. Only the top bolt has to be removed. NOTE: the bolt, with blue thread lock, was placed in the caliper only to complete the picture.
2006 Smart Passion cdi - Electric heating burns a lot of Diesel

#2 Francesco

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 04:15 PM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#3 Mike T

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:59 PM

I removed mine on one side only, to change the calliper support. Interestingly, the replacement support does not use a pentagonal bolt.But yah, why remove it for a mere pad change?

2006 smart BRABUS Canada 1 cabriolet, FlyingTiger map 380023_5.png
2013 Ford Fiesta SE 5 speed, 203A and Winter packages 542252_5.png
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#4 Bessy

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:10 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

2006 Smart ForTwo Pulse , Twister BlueGrey Interior, Star Blue Metallic Panels, Black Cell, Black Windows, and Alloys(in Summer). Named Bessy, lives in Burlington, ON
Best Tank So Far: 3.7L/100km
127,000 KM

Mods Done: ScanGaugeII, Side Markers Now also Turn Signals and L.E.D., L.E.D.s in Axle Tubes as Extra Brake Lights, EGR Emulator/EGR Removed, Vertical Wipers, Air Inlet Delipped, 120V Marine Inlet for Blockheater, Ignition Free Windows, AUX-IN for iPod/MP3, Remap by Smart142, Aftermarket Heated Seats, K&N DropIn, Eibach Pro Springs, Winter wheels are 4 wide rims with 4 skinny tires(looking to buy a pair of 20mm spacers for rears).

All work done by owner (Level 3 Automotive Apprentice) who is looking to work on other smarts(except Re-Maps see Smart142 for that!)
Specialize in Reluctor Rings done while you wait, sometimes done in as little as an hour!
Brakes, TieRods, Ball Joints, Control Arms, Thermostats, Springs & Stuts/Shocks, Wheel Bearings Etc!


#5 RDL

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:22 AM

I wish I had noticed the Evilution tutorial. http://www.evilution...ndex.php?id=279 It was my impression that several threads advocated the removal of the 5 sided bolt, to replace the pads, which is the reason for starting a new thread.
2006 Smart Passion cdi - Electric heating burns a lot of Diesel

#6 Francesco

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:04 AM

What about changing the rotors? Isn't that needed?

No, for that you remove both E18s on the caliper bracket. The the slider is just 13 and 17 mm wrenches and some muscle. FWIW I found it necessary to use a U-joint and breaker bar with a short pipe extension to get enough torque to break the E18s free. http://www.fq101.co....s-and-pads.html ETA: I just noticed in my post above I misremembered. The slider doesn't use the E18, just a 13 mm bolt.
Francesco

2006 fortwo cdi pulse cabrio phat red/silver|heated leather|PLUS|sound|rack||mods OE cruise|Cabriotec heated glass rear window|custom red silicone cdi TIK|all-LED EU lamps front & rear|OE mud-flaps|colour-coded|garage opener|wiper nozzle|SGII|remap|spin-on oil filter|K&N air filter|RS grille|Painted smart Mods de Dion caps|Hella Micro DE fogs|MDC sucker|R1 Concepts brakes|TK's restrictor mod|LED angel eyes|stainless EGR delete|RS paddles|HEL braided brake lines|Bilstein B14 PSS coil-overs|PowerFlex bushings|Michalak 16" wheels||coming up Blindy|torque damper|Morimoto||

#7 Alex

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 06:22 AM

Ideally I think that pentabolt should be removed after long service to lube it. Perhaps with a rotor change, which is usually every second pad change. "Lubed for life" may apply in a warm dry salt-free climate, but not for our cars!

#8 tolsen

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 12:13 PM

I replaced those penta bolts with standard hex bolts years ago. You should all do same at the earliest opportunity.

By the way, it looks like you may have a problem.
Posted Image
Has the rubber gaiter sheared off in way of the narrowest section?

This can easily happen when you do not remove both bolts but swing calliper on lower bolt instead.

Edited by tolsen, 15 October 2012 - 12:16 PM.


#9 diesel4me

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 10:48 AM

I thought that's SOP... every online guide (evilution, fq101) and every how-to here at CsC says to just remove the E18 and tilt the slider up out of the way...

[size=3]Have you found a source for a penta bolt socket & if so, what size is it? I like to clean & lubricate the caliper sliders because of the road salt that's used where I live rusts everything terribly.

Edited by diesel4me, 27 November 2012 - 11:25 AM.





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