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@  Mike T : (29 August 2015 - 07:33 AM) I've no idea! Sorry, I rarely went there anyway. I think they had "issues". Driving to Banff today in the rain in prep for a 290 km bike ride from Jasper to Banff. Cheers
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 11:24 PM) Ah. Just found Martin's tweet from January, but its link is dead so I have no details of why the club was dissolved
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:49 PM) Hey Mike, what happened to CsQ? I haven't logged in in over a year, but it seems the lights aren't on...?
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:39 PM) keep you eyes on the classifieds here, SCoA and CsQ, as well as Kijiji. Deals on rims pop up from time to time.
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:36 PM) and yes, you'll find even with a one inch drop there is plenty of arch gap. I'm -1.25 in the front and -1.4 out back and it could go lower (but would drive balls). I hate the useless stanced look.
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:34 PM) Figure a good $1400 or more to your door.
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 10:33 PM) Ouch. The shipping will be more than the (discounted) 19% VAT, and then you'll likely get a collect bill from Canada Post for GST/PST and duties.
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:15 PM) I found these: http://www.rs-parts....r-smart450.html
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:15 PM) Question: With the lowered springs (Eibach, 25mm), can I still put a set of 16" on my limousine?
@  Surturiel : (28 August 2015 - 05:14 PM) I'll see what I can do...
@  Francesco : (28 August 2015 - 08:56 AM) Check with Fast Eddy to see if he'll rent you the correct tool for cheap.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) (like copper or aluminium)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:43 PM) I'll try with something hard, but not as hard as steel
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:42 PM) tolsen has posted about it before. Personally I thought a couple hours of tinkering was time better spent elsewhere, and the $50 for the tool well spent
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) you need a hardwood, soft won't do
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:41 PM) no worries, got the idea
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:40 PM) the hole being the exact size of the rod, not the disc. Sorry about the syntax
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:39 PM) A wooden clamp would work well. Drill a hole in a wooden disc the exact size of the strut rod's diameter, then cut the disc in half and add flats
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:13 PM) leather is too soft, as is rubber. I was thinking about either copper wire wound around the strut or tinfoil. and a vise Grip
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:11 PM) An old leather belt might work better, but I had no luck with it
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:10 PM) (I was thinking about a vise grip and tinfoil. you know, tinfoil is aluminum, and can potentailly protect the shock, and a vbise grip is FAR more useful than the clamp, but this is me trying to Mcgiver a solution, as usual...)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:07 PM) ah, ok, then
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:06 PM) The strut spins freely, you need the special clamping tool to provide flats for a big open ended wrench (with this tool 47 mm)
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:03 PM) Can't I use LOTS of wd40, a t47 bit and a breaker bar?
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 02:01 PM) The strut clamp is a necessity. Worth every cent I paid -- making something similar myself would have taken me more time than I'd like to spend in order to save the few bucks.
@  Surturiel : (27 August 2015 - 02:00 PM) c'mon! I'll use twine. And optimism.
@  Francesco : (27 August 2015 - 01:59 PM) I honestly didn't need them on the broken spring, and while handy for the lowering springs, not necessary.
@  dmoonen : (27 August 2015 - 08:06 AM) Spring compresssors are still needed. .Tolson why must you take the hard way to everything
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 03:59 PM) nah, the springs are broken, and I can use the ye old zip-tie trick. But since I'm going to put eibachs (-25mm) I won't worry.]
@  tolsen : (26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM) Clamp type spring compressors should not be used since the damage both protective coating and spring.
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) The spring compressors you can borrow at Canadian tire
@  dmoonen : (26 August 2015 - 11:27 AM) I have the Mercedes strut clamp you can borrow just pay shipping and if you break it you buy it. Pm me
@  Surturiel : (26 August 2015 - 08:51 AM) thanks, guys! And... does anyone in Vancouver area have the clamp so I can "rent"?
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:43 PM) To and from SK*. I'm just waiting on some bits to finish the Golf build
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 06:41 PM) Still driving it, drove it to and from and average 4.7l/100l loaded to the brim.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 06:19 PM) Dillen how much did you end up getting for the wagon?
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:13 PM) And if replacing the plastic bellows (dust boots) on the struts, cut a good 1.5" off the bottoms of them or they'll just compress around the stops and get in the way of the clamp tool
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:11 PM) also, take a new knife blade and cut about an inch off the bump stops unless you love bottoming out on small bumps.
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) wont need it for the Eibachs
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 05:09 PM) If the springs are broken at the top as suspected, the spring compressor might not be necessary.
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:49 PM) And a normal spring compressor
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Strut clamp tool*
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 04:46 PM) Lots of penetrating oil on the top nut and see if you can borrow a strut tool of you don't have the proper air tools
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:08 PM) Now, let's see if I can replace them without getting myself killed...
@  Surturiel : (25 August 2015 - 01:07 PM) Got the Eibach springs!
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 12:29 PM) Lol
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) ok, maybe MikeT
@  Francesco : (25 August 2015 - 10:18 AM) Who doesn't? Hehehe
@  dmoonen : (25 August 2015 - 07:46 AM) sounds like you have a decent to do list. .
@  Surturiel : (23 August 2015 - 08:00 PM) Perhaps even throw a set of powerflex purple bushings, and a set of 16" "space" wheels, but not now...)

Replacing head/tail light bulbs.


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_lord_galathon_*

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:08 AM

Hello, total newb here. My first question:Every time my mom burns a lamp on her 2005 Smart ForTwo Pure Cabrio (which is quite often, every other month or so) the local MB dealer charges her over 60$ to change it.1-shouldn't the light bulbs be under warranty? They were on my 2003 Tiburon and my Wife's 2005 Elantra.2-60$ to replace a 5$ bulb? :dunno: 3-can I do it myself or is a special tool required?Thanks in advance and thanks for welcoming me on your forum.

#2 mhawel

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:47 AM

Even the dealer nearest me, that i don't like, will take you while you wait, and charges only a few bucks more than the bulb costs in Canadian tire. I think the bill was $26 for one. The first time i went to ask for just a bulb it was after my warranty was up, 80 500 km or so, and they didn't even charge me at all...I do beleive it's up to the dealer wheather or not they will do the bulbs under warranty, and it's probably up to them what they charge as well... I'm sure the dealer near me has someone who can manage to get their arm in there, to avoid taking the whole front end off. The $60 for one bulb kinda makes sense in that it's one half hour labour, and the cost of the bulb (1 hr = $95 around here). To do both at the same time should save you money, cause the labour wouldn't go up any...Mike
My Smart: 2005 Passion Cabrio, Silver/Silver, UPSolute 60HP/105ft.lbs remap, K&N, Wiper Washer mod, Clock and Tach, upgraded J/L Audio & Focal sound system, turn signals moved to headlights, LED sidemarkers with blink function - 101000 km (credit goes to Duck for the Avatar Photo)
4.5 L/100km

My 1990 Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooler - 427 000 km
12 L/100km

My 1993 Volvo 960 I6 - 351 000km
10.5 L/100km

#3 bilgladstone

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    This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 09:02 AM

Your mom is getting ripped off.There was a recent smart announcement that headlight bulbs are to be replaced free under warranty during the 20,000km adjustment period. In fact, it may have been longer than that - I don't recall exactly.If the car is past that... mileage... she is still being ripped off. A new bulb can cost around $17 and it takes 10 minutes to replace it yourself once you get the knack. So quickly, that most dealers will sell you a bulb and install it for free while you wait.Additionally, if the bulbs are burning out every couple of months, it is a strong indication that the stealership mechanics are not installing them correctly - most likely touching the glass on the bulbs whilst putting them in.Search the how-tos in here for illustrated instructions and do it for her, cuz!Bil :sun:
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#4 Mike T

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    We pre-ordered our first smart in July 2002!

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:36 AM

It's a DIY even for those with moderately large forearms (who are not averse to a little flesh compression). I have burnt out "only" two bulbs in 70,000 km and 30 months.

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#5 Duck

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 12:59 PM

I have gone through at least 10 now in 115 000 km of (admitedly hard) driving. This photo might help you with the tricky clip at the back of the bulb:

Posted Image

I'm so good/used to replacing bulbs I just do them in the Canadian Tire parking lot in < 2 minutes... but it's sad I have got that good at it!!

-Iain
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#6 Guest_lord_galathon_*

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 07:32 AM

Thanks for the prompt answers; So I take it that they're available at Canadian Tire. Are they in the directory they usually keep near the bulbs or are they a specific type?Also the photo you show mr.Duck is taken from outside the car or inside? Basically, being a car with no hood, how does one access the rear of the lamp???Thanks.

#7 ARTZ

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 08:20 AM

To Change the headlights. To change the taillights. These are from Evilution's website from the UK. He has a great number of How-To's on his website. He also posts quite a bit on these fourms.
ARTZ 2006 with Euro Panels and a X-Gauge

#8 I M SMRT

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 06:38 PM

The low beam bulbs are H7The high beam bulbs are H1They are standard bulbs. I suggest buying the cheaper ones from CT or even the dealer.....before considering getting "good" bulbs. At least until you decide whether the burn outs are flukes from improper installations or if there is something else burning the bulbs so quickly. Make sure you dont touch the bulbs with bare hands...the oil from your skin will shorten the life.
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#9 ARTZ

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 11:19 AM

18 months, 40,000km and only one dead low beam light. I replaced both lights with the GE Night Hawks and they work great.
ARTZ 2006 with Euro Panels and a X-Gauge




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