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@  Mike T : (24 March 2015 - 06:21 PM) If they and you are sure of the diagnosis, it's a good idea to go ahead.
@  Chicklet : (24 March 2015 - 11:21 AM) Love my little car but lately has a big appetite on expensive parts! Haha
@  Chicklet : (24 March 2015 - 11:20 AM) This question is about the oil pump chain problem from a couple of days ago. Heard that the sound(a chain sort of rattle when you let off the accelerator) could also be from the clutch plate. Does this sound like something that is a possibility. MB in Nanaimo wants about $2200.00 to change the oil pump change. Just trying to get a little more feed back on others who have had some same issues.
@  Bessy : (24 March 2015 - 11:16 AM) Hey!
@  Chicklet : (24 March 2015 - 11:15 AM) Hi
@  dmoonen : (22 March 2015 - 05:52 PM) Mhm the turbo does sounds off. . like its saying help me.
@  Mike T : (22 March 2015 - 12:18 PM) Yeah it is whistling too much due to the bent fin.
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 12:13 PM) Just a lot of whistle for me.
@  kdubya : (22 March 2015 - 12:11 PM) hmmmm, sounds like mine.....maybe I should check. :( I did hear a buzzing I think. Is that what you meant?
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 12:01 PM) Listen :)
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 12:00 PM) Nothing related with the starting problem. It just make more sound than usual.
@  kdubya : (22 March 2015 - 11:50 AM) If its been like that for a while and works great what makes you think something is wrong with it now?
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 11:48 AM) I know, it is like that since 4-5 years, but it still work great.
@  Mike T : (22 March 2015 - 11:41 AM) Yup that turbo has eaten something, very nasty!
@  kdubya : (22 March 2015 - 11:29 AM) somethings def wrong. That's how the turbo looks in my parts car that had an oil pump failure. And it looks like one of your fins are bent
@  David_18 : (22 March 2015 - 10:34 AM) I think something wrong with my turbo... https://lh4.googleus...0322_133347.jpg
@  Francesco : (22 March 2015 - 08:35 AM) gawd I hate that stuff. She gets it done every year. And her 12 yr old car w/60k has more signs of rust than our 13 yr old Accord w/160k that's never been rust treated.
@  Francesco : (22 March 2015 - 08:33 AM) "Rust proofing" places do worse. Mom's Corolla was overheating last summer. Popped the hood, there was a half inch of black (commercial) rust-proof spray on both sides of her rad.
@  dmoonen : (21 March 2015 - 03:14 PM) Which is still a pain . . and alllllllot of time
@  Francesco : (21 March 2015 - 01:33 PM) You need a cooling fin comb
@  dmoonen : (21 March 2015 - 01:24 PM) Yeah it flattens the fins causing over heating conditions. . . Not ideal
@  Mike T : (21 March 2015 - 09:57 AM) never use high pressure washers on a radiator or intercooler!
@  Msdumo : (21 March 2015 - 09:50 AM) msdumo, a newbie trying out shout
@  Clancy : (21 March 2015 - 08:29 AM) When I got my smart everything was clean & shiny behind the grill at 9000 Km. Now at 12000 Km it is dirty & grimey from the road. Is it OK to take off the front grill & spray shampoo & rinse there at the coin-op?
@  RoadHound : (21 March 2015 - 06:01 AM) http://www.amazon.co...Z3rL&ref=plSrch
@  RoadHound : (21 March 2015 - 05:59 AM) Found this on amazon and I don't know where to put it. http://www.amazon.co...a9LL&ref=plSrch
@  Chicklet : (20 March 2015 - 03:25 PM) Thanks, that good information. Will check it out.
@  Mike T : (20 March 2015 - 12:01 PM) OK with that further information I suspect the oil pump drive chain. Take the oil filter out, cut it open and look for metal flakes inside.
@  Chicklet : (20 March 2015 - 11:49 AM) Thanks Mike T for responding. It almost sounds more grinding/clicking like a chain having too much play. Never gearing up just when slowing or gearing down. Could there be filing in the transmission or low on fluid do this. Would a transmission flush be the first coarse of action. Thanks for your thoughts.
@  Mike T : (19 March 2015 - 07:46 PM) I am thinking of an exhaust leak.
@  Chicklet : (19 March 2015 - 03:34 PM) Sorry posted before I could say what the problem is. When my car shifts down it sounds like jake brakes on a large truck going sown hill( maybe not that loud thought) This occurs when I let off the gas. Doesn't sound good. I do not have problems shifting or anything just noisy when it shifts down. Could transmission fluid be low?
@  Chicklet : (19 March 2015 - 03:29 PM) Its been awhile since I have been here, but I having an issue not sure where i should start without incurring undo exspensive.
@  Chicklet : (19 March 2015 - 03:28 PM) Hi,

Replacing head/tail light bulbs.


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_lord_galathon_*

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:08 AM

Hello, total newb here. My first question:Every time my mom burns a lamp on her 2005 Smart ForTwo Pure Cabrio (which is quite often, every other month or so) the local MB dealer charges her over 60$ to change it.1-shouldn't the light bulbs be under warranty? They were on my 2003 Tiburon and my Wife's 2005 Elantra.2-60$ to replace a 5$ bulb? :dunno: 3-can I do it myself or is a special tool required?Thanks in advance and thanks for welcoming me on your forum.

#2 mhawel

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:47 AM

Even the dealer nearest me, that i don't like, will take you while you wait, and charges only a few bucks more than the bulb costs in Canadian tire. I think the bill was $26 for one. The first time i went to ask for just a bulb it was after my warranty was up, 80 500 km or so, and they didn't even charge me at all...I do beleive it's up to the dealer wheather or not they will do the bulbs under warranty, and it's probably up to them what they charge as well... I'm sure the dealer near me has someone who can manage to get their arm in there, to avoid taking the whole front end off. The $60 for one bulb kinda makes sense in that it's one half hour labour, and the cost of the bulb (1 hr = $95 around here). To do both at the same time should save you money, cause the labour wouldn't go up any...Mike
My Smart: 2005 Passion Cabrio, Silver/Silver, UPSolute 60HP/105ft.lbs remap, K&N, Wiper Washer mod, Clock and Tach, upgraded J/L Audio & Focal sound system, turn signals moved to headlights, LED sidemarkers with blink function - 101000 km (credit goes to Duck for the Avatar Photo)
4.5 L/100km

My 1990 Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooler - 427 000 km
12 L/100km

My 1993 Volvo 960 I6 - 351 000km
10.5 L/100km

#3 bilgladstone

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    This is my smart. There are many like it, but this one is mine.

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 09:02 AM

Your mom is getting ripped off.There was a recent smart announcement that headlight bulbs are to be replaced free under warranty during the 20,000km adjustment period. In fact, it may have been longer than that - I don't recall exactly.If the car is past that... mileage... she is still being ripped off. A new bulb can cost around $17 and it takes 10 minutes to replace it yourself once you get the knack. So quickly, that most dealers will sell you a bulb and install it for free while you wait.Additionally, if the bulbs are burning out every couple of months, it is a strong indication that the stealership mechanics are not installing them correctly - most likely touching the glass on the bulbs whilst putting them in.Search the how-tos in here for illustrated instructions and do it for her, cuz!Bil :sun:
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#4 Mike T

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:36 AM

It's a DIY even for those with moderately large forearms (who are not averse to a little flesh compression). I have burnt out "only" two bulbs in 70,000 km and 30 months.

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#5 Duck

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 12:59 PM

I have gone through at least 10 now in 115 000 km of (admitedly hard) driving. This photo might help you with the tricky clip at the back of the bulb:

Posted Image

I'm so good/used to replacing bulbs I just do them in the Canadian Tire parking lot in < 2 minutes... but it's sad I have got that good at it!!

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#6 Guest_lord_galathon_*

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 07:32 AM

Thanks for the prompt answers; So I take it that they're available at Canadian Tire. Are they in the directory they usually keep near the bulbs or are they a specific type?Also the photo you show mr.Duck is taken from outside the car or inside? Basically, being a car with no hood, how does one access the rear of the lamp???Thanks.

#7 ARTZ

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 08:20 AM

To Change the headlights. To change the taillights. These are from Evilution's website from the UK. He has a great number of How-To's on his website. He also posts quite a bit on these fourms.
ARTZ 2006 with Euro Panels and a X-Gauge

#8 I M SMRT

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 06:38 PM

The low beam bulbs are H7The high beam bulbs are H1They are standard bulbs. I suggest buying the cheaper ones from CT or even the dealer.....before considering getting "good" bulbs. At least until you decide whether the burn outs are flukes from improper installations or if there is something else burning the bulbs so quickly. Make sure you dont touch the bulbs with bare hands...the oil from your skin will shorten the life.
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#9 ARTZ

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 11:19 AM

18 months, 40,000km and only one dead low beam light. I replaced both lights with the GE Night Hawks and they work great.
ARTZ 2006 with Euro Panels and a X-Gauge




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