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Has anyone recently sourced a good quality after-market rear wheel bearing/hub assembly for the 450? Care to share the details, or link? I've got a laundry list of items to tend with on a cdi, and this is one that affects the drivability today.

I would try that myself, but keep the trips short.

Is your intercooler fan working? Do you have an intercooler scoop?

I blasted up a 1775 metre pass at 120 km/h in 5th gear near redline in my fully laden remapped car when it was 38 degrees outside (at the bottom of the climb) and the engine temp peaked at 112 degrees but no more. Just as it should in extremis. That was several years ago and so far, so good at 183,000 km.

"People will never forget how you made them feel." Maya Angelou

might be too late....still got this?

2010 451 Smart Heated seats not working. When I press the heated seat button on, it only stays lit for about 5 seconds. I have replaced the relay and checked the wiring and still will not stay on?

Brand new Smart car oil pan "with drain plug" includes (1) oil filter. I have pictures but cannot figure out how to post them ! $125.00 canadian. Frank @ 514-668-9318 or email frankieblue45@gmail.com

Hello! Long time lurker, got a lot of valuable info from this forum. Just want to share some symptoms and a fix in case this happens to someone else. Recently I was on a roadtrip with the smartie and I heard a knocking noise coming from the engine about 100km after a fill up, and took a video of the noise (First video attached). It sounded like the engine was clattering, so I checked the oil level but that was fine, so I continued driving as it still drove normally, up until 170km from the fill up. https://youtu.be/xhifrlBTflc?si=kpUByGFauVYXNTbH At that point, the smartie shits the bed going up a hill on the highway. 0 power and the engine gives a cartoonish "put put" and dies as I pull off on the shoulder. Trying to restart the engine, it does fire up, but runs even worse than before. Undrivable in that state (second video attached). I got it towed an hour away to a friend's house in New Brunswick, and hitched a ride back to Toronto to grab some parts. Codes read, no codes. Ended up finding a hydraulic lifter that had completely shattered, causing the follower to slip out from under the cam and hammer against the side of the head and valve spring. That explains the "chuffing" noise heard as the exhaust valve was unable to open. https://ibb.co/kcMcrMD Eventually got the hydraulic lifter piece out with a motorcycle inner bearing puller that has a slide hammer. https://ibb.co/9TwpdqT https://ibb.co/PDQd4Gr Also noticed a valve spring keeper was laying in a pocket on the head, looks like the follower was hammering on the side of the valve and ejected one keeper. Ended up having to make a custom tool to compress the valve spring in order to get the keeper back in. https://ibb.co/QD5R3NF https://ibb.co/124s3cM https://ibb.co/6yPbwsR On another note, I rebuilt the High Pressure Fuel pump since the camshaft had to be taken out. After rebuilding, the car would drive normally unless under high load (highway/ big hills), in those situations, the car would stall and would not restart (just crank) unless you waited 2-3 minutes. I also got a P1187 (Fuel Rail Pressure too low). Thanks to "bmwmilos" post of the exact situation, I ended up rebuilding the high pressure fuel pump a second time and polished the head surfaces like he did, cured the problem. Now that it's back together, it runs like it should! Was just wondering what you guys on the forum thought could be the cause of the lifters failing? I had been running the smartie 6 hours a day non stop this trip, but was very mindful of temperature and coolant/fluid levels. It did reach 100c at times, but the front radiator fans would come on and that temperature wasn't sustained. I was using synthetic 5w40, though not diesel, or 229.5 spec., which I believe could have been the source of the problem, but let me know what you guys think! I'm now using 5W40 diesel spec . Synthetic oil

Thank you Glenn.

"The older I get, the earlier it gets late." John Cleese

Evilution has a list of the bulbs.

@stickman007 just left Chilliwack 25 minutes ago, and will be back in Edmonton tonight! He probably has a couple of ideas! Get your multimeter handy. He had my Prius headlamp issue sorted out in 15 minutes yesterday; I had retrograded to halogen headlamps with brand new housings from a tired HID system in my Gen II. The final connection of the new H4 harness from a newly installed relay behind the headlamp had been hooked up incorrectly, and he was actually able to resolve it with no cutting/splicing/resoldering/heat shrinking! Anyway, his IQ on electrical stuff is probably about 180. (Failing that, it's whatever mine is times Pi, lol.)

Izzy (stickman007) is in Edmonton but electrical is his thing. He does have a full time job but will service smart cars after hours at home. Izzy is away on vacation for another week or so but message him after that and have a conversation at least. Nigel

Recurrence. I kind of expected it would, but see what you can make of it. After it got washed we got the dash lights on and when the ignition is on - the horn which - will not turn off. I went through and did a leak check and there is a leak (was) on the passenger side. It came down by the fender on the in and the outside. But there seems to be nothing wiring related that got wet. I inspected the SAM - all dry. I pulled the lighting module and disassembled it to check for water and it was completely dry, the felts as well. We will see if the leak is fixed tomorrow, if it is we will let it dry out and see what happens. Does anyone know a very good s mart mechanic in the Calgary - Red Deer area?

"Optimist: day dreamer more elegantly spelled." Mark Twain

Since it looks like I am going down the EGR road, research has led me to installing an egr blocking plate and/or removing the solenoid and turning the cartridge 180 degrees. My question is, which one do I do? No CEL on the dash but at times the car goes into limp mode (is it just a matter of time?) If I go blanking plate, would I still remove the EGR valve and give it a clean? And since I am there, do the 180 thing and not bother with the blanking plate. Is one easier than the other or is it the case of 'since I am already up to my elbows may as well..."

would poor fuel mileage be associated with this situation?

A list of what bulb goes where? I want/need to replace them all. I hit a bump or train tracks and I loose left rear turn signal. Or right front turn signal. Or left rear brake light. Hit another bump, or next day, and problem gone. I need to clean all bulb sockets, so I might as well replace all the bulbs (many original from 2005). I can't just pull them all and make a list, as I need to drive to store to get bulbs. I've tried to search the sight with no success. Truthfully I'm old and not good with computers. Any help appreciated. Direction to site posting, if one already exists. Or maybe the quantity of each different bulb.

"When you lose, don't lose the lesson." Dalai Lama

Sounds like there’s more to learn about Smarts! 30 mm spacers? What needs to happen for the tires to rub the wheel wells? On your next trip to Nakusp keep an eye out for a red ‘05 Cabri around Crescent Valley. That’s me!

I ran out and the dashboard lit up like a christmas tree. Once refuelled it took a few attempts of disconnecting the battery to reset the car. I also had the dashboard light up while on my way to Nakusp a few days ago but that was due to a leak in the line coming out of the high pressure pump into the rail. Now I just found another issue. It seems that my left front suspension has shifted forward by a few cms to where it rubs when turning. Checked and seems that nothing is loose. It was only noticed in town, previous hiway drive didn't have this rubbing. It handled the winding turns no problem with the 30 mm spacers on.

Glenn (smart142) is a pretty good source for parts. He even has the local Mercedes dealer calling him for parts no longer available to them. Nigel

Thanks for the offer Smart142, I may take you up on it. I mentioned washers because I have seen individuals use copper crush washers inside the flare. New to me, figured I would ask and see what the consensus is. Would it be beneficial to try and clean up the flared ends at all and try again? Sand them down perhaps?

Ya, bleeding an old Mercedes or Toyota diesel was tricky too!