My 2016 ED has been throwing the odd ABS light but now it come on when I go over 100km/h. I bought the front sensor thinking I may have broken it when I was rebuilding the front end but no luck. I moved to the rear and saw the passenger ABS Tone Ring is broken.

Has anyone had any luck replacing these? I really don't want to buy an axle for a broken ring. My main issue is where to get them.

Can anyone help me out with sourcing them?

has anyone on the group done this?   any benefit besides gaining some room in the engine bay.

thanks.  

Until now...  Now I'm getting a small clicking sound on the steering column and a bit of loose. I've seen this in other cars and its sounding like the lower U-joint is going. I'm just starting to look into this and I'm wondering if I could do it myself.

Has anyone ever replaced this lower joint? I looked on the MB parts site and I only get the part as an assembly of the steering column.

Smart steering column part # 4514600001

Is there a way to just rebuild the U-Joint?

Cheers!

Does anyone happen to know the location of the Rough Road Sensor in a 451?  OBD claims that ours has an intermittent open circuit and I would like to check it out.

-d.

I sell cars at Automax in Sarnia and I've recently had a customer ask if we can install power mirrors on a base smart that didn't have them from factory. I'm wondering if this is possible as our parts car has power mirrors and the wiring harness needed to make it happen. Any help would be greatly appreciated  

Cheers,

Thanks for the help!

First picture is where I placed the heater pad, on the package it said for best results to place on the bottom of the oil pan, for obvious reasons. To protect the plug wires from heat damage and debris I warped them in Flex wire. You just have to clean and de-grease the oil pan, then scuff it up with the sand paper provided in the kit.

The second picture is just to show where I ran the cable and where I zip tied.

The last picture is just showing where I ran the plug in for easy access, when not in use i just tuck the plug into the adjacent hole.

The Heater pad used in this install is linked below.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/polar-pad-engine-heater-125w-0300004p.html#.VIcaIdLF9R4

Would like to give a huge thanks to Spider for the use of his hoist, made this install so much easier, but could be done with out one.

My Smart Fortwo is a 2010 (turbo) all stock and standard, (not including fog lights as the optional extra)

i am planning on updating the panels on my smart from the standard 2007-2012 panels and valences to the facelift (2013 onwards) panels and valences including the rear valence, front valence and lower ornamental grille as well as the front ornamental grille. I'm sure the panels will fit, but is there anything I should be wary of? Would I be able to do it? 

Thanks! 

Thomas 

The sun shade in our car has been cranky ever since we brought it home in October, but has been a relatively low priority item on my to-do list. Until yesterday, when the rear spool completely came free and fell on my head while driving. It looks as though the two rear-most mounting posts on the driver's side failed, and this likely allowed enough play for the spool to drop out.

Does anyone happen to know what type of plastic the mounting strips are made of? There are no discernible markings on the components other than part numbers. By feel and appearance of the break it reminds me of ABS, but I'm no expert. If possible I would prefer to use a solvent cement for a lasting repair, but will see how methacrylate holds up if it's an unknown.

Thanks for the two replies below - I should have clarified that this is not an OEM smart front spoiler. Rather its a Carlsson front spoiler which is primed flat black. I have attached a picture

I am working on getting my 2013 cabriolet ready for 4 down towing. I installed a Blue Ox baseplate and now getting the lights wired. I would prefer not to tie into the car wiring but see there is an extra socket in the tail light assembly. Does anyone know why it is there and if it can be used for tow lights coming from the RV?

Thanks in advance for the help

Pam

I pulled one down and used a volt meter to test the leads, but nothing seemed to give them power.

Headlights on/off, Dome light on/off in combination with the car running/not running.

I suspect they might be pre-wiring for the ambient light package, but I'm not sure.

If so, I might just be missing a fuse.

Checking my fuse box I have fuses in nearly every slot.

The only empty spots are R3,R4,R5, and R6

Model is 2013 City Flame with Surround, and heated seats.... and almost 100,000 Km .

Is anyone familiar with these connectors?

Installed new door speakers this weekend and it went pretty well.

I read a lot of recommendations for using the Polk DB651 as a direct drop in, but the Kickers fit right in with a basic adapter.

I didn't need to remove the existing speaker grill, but I did bend some plastic tabs out of the way.

The only issue was some confusion on the wiring.

The online diagrams stated the following:

Passenger Side:

- Grey/Black: Negative

- Grey/White: Positive

Driver Side:

- Green/Brown: Negative

- Green: Positive

BUT,

As you can see in the photo below.. that couldn't be the case.

I think, in my car, the Green wire is actually negative.

(Identical connectors plugged into identical speakers, so left wire should be negative on both)

So that's how I wired it (Green as negative).

It sounds great and these speakers were thin enough to clear the window easily.

Fit front of 451?