stickman007

Damn, I only started in April 2012!

🤦‍♂️

No CEL only means that the ECM did not logged a code. This could potentially be that the ECM shut off and that’s why it did not log any codes. If the ECM drops out, the CAN will have issues. Perform a load test to all your power/grounds to the ECM. If you have a scanner that’s capable of connecting to your ABS, airbag, SAM, or cluster module, you might get fault codes that will point to the culprit to the CAN issue - which module is dropping out.

I have a few decent used ones, but shipping will be crazy expensive as they’re bulky and heavy.

Had a friend's smart that's leaking oil at the front crank seal. I did not have any "proper" seal driver - didn't even have a socket big enough to do the job. It was also a tight spot with the rear spring in the way. So, I 3D printed a seal driver. Cracked the driver as I was low on time and 3D printed with only 30% infill. But it worked beautifully. With the seal driver on, I can now also brake clean the area without any contamination fall in. I will need to make some adjustments to the measurements. If anybody is interested in the file, sent me a pm.

Too bad we lost the wiki section, I had a page with diagrams and explanation on how to do this mod….and alternatives to the headlights as well.

After a few months of silence, I’ve been receiving requests to make some more plug and play EGR emulators. Please let me know if you would like one as I’ll be making another small batch of them. I’ll be putting in my PCB order in a day or two. If you’re buying 1, it’s $125 including shipping in Canada. If you’re buying more than one, pm me and I’ll give you a deal. Izzy

Our little get together for dinner at The Varsity.

I regularly go past 16psi. It’s closer to 18psi for 5s before the overboost limp mode kicks in. It doesn’t alway have a CEL. As Willy’s pointed out, basically the 2 main thing that will cause limp mode is EGR and overboost. Pulling the FC will tell you which is the culprit. P0405 will be a EGR circuit code - potentially shorted coil as voltage is low. An active code will not allow you to delete.

For a few days it was very slow with the error page opening often. It seems to be good lately without any issues.

Pic of YEGSmartie's cylinder - currently working on Valves from a previous OM660 cylinder head job with hard start symptom

I've come across a few higher mileage OM660 engines now. Similar symptoms, white smoky starts and long cranks with lots of misfires. I believe that most likely the issue is that your intake valves are burnt or completely worn. Rather than planning a full engine rebuild, (difficult to source parts for the bottom end), I would aim to pull the head and inspect your cylinder head. Replace your valve seals, intake valves, lifters (both exhaust/intake), rockers, and head bolts. Parts should run you about $800ish all together from the dealership and way less if you do aftermarket. I'm currently working on an engine with 220k and the cross hatch still looks great with no scoring on the cylinder walls. I'll post some pics with sunken intake vales. Check with Willys (Jonathan), I think he's our most recent guy to fully rebuild one of these engines if you want more tips. The few that I've replaced intake valves ran way nicer afterwards. Also pay attention to broken lifters and rockers - also a common issue if not the root cause to worn valves. Izzy

In all my experiences with Chinese turbos, they all spool significantly slower than the OEM turbo. The max psi is dependent on your rpm and load. In my experiences, tightening the nut will allow the wastegate to stay shut longer allowing you to build boost faster, but then you run the risk of overboost. I'm not sure of the exact numbers, but overboost will set if you go over 18psi for 5secs. Once overboost is set, you will lose power and cannot rev past 3k - you can cycle the ignition to reset. Overboost doesn't always get a CEL. Adjusting the wastegate on these Chinese turbos will not solve your slow spooling issue....the turbo lag will become more pronounce and you will constantly set overboost limp mode. On a flat road, it will allow you to be quicker, but then as soon as you hit a steep hill, or downshift to pass on the highway, you will go into limp mode when you need power the most. My 2 cent.

Working on @YEGSmartie’s car. It has over 200k. cylinder #3 hydraulic lifter snapped apart i I don’t have any pics yet, but all higher mileage om660 seems to have burnt or worn intake valves. The seats are fine, but valves are sharp. The exhausts appear to be in perfect shape.

I’ve also had the privilege of running down to 0 before filling up, not by choice…very nerve racking. I made about 2km after hitting 0L before I reached a gas station. If the fuel in the tank has been sitting for awhile, the float may not read correctly (there was a thread here a while ago. Some call for fuel treatment to help). In most highway driving, you should get around 400km before the countdown. Izzy