stickman007

MikeT has a Canada1 Edition - Alcantara dash

Just buy the balljoint/tie-rod and reuse the end. Wear in front end components are generally directly related to the type of roads and driving conditions. Poor alignment can also cause unnecessary stress and movements as well. A common neglected issue is sagging or broken front springs - leads to poor alignment angles, and tire wear.

So we put a deposit down for a 2024 Fiat 500e Red Edition (pretty much base model). Hope to pick it up tomorrow, but there’s a freaking snow storm…so probably have to reschedule with the dealership for sometime over the wkend. The 500e has a rated range of 240km. I plan to use it as a daily (<90km round trip). Should be fairly safe even in the winter. My work place is also going be installing a level 3 charger in the near future. I currently have a 5.5kw solar system and will be installing a 2kw wind turbine as soon as the snow is gone. So fingers crossed I can drive for free! Red Pxl will be driven by Alex to work and back whenever the roads are clear. We’re doing to cut down on driving our gas guzzlers (GLK250 and Focus RS), though in AB standard they’re “economic”.

Outer tie rod and ball joint are the same.

We plan to keep all our cars. We will keep the GLK250 for roadtrips and Home Depot runs. The RS will be driven only in the winter. The C1 I’ll probably put it in storage if I can find something more fuel efficient/reliable for daily errands. I can’t bring myself to sell the C1…(even if I wanted to, no one in Truck land AB will appreciate it).

Drove RedPxl to work for the 2nd day now. Great fuel economy! But it’s definitely a huge adjustment in driving style from 350hp awd to 60hp (probably less than that!). Gas is getting expensive…thinking of getting either a Fiat 500e or a Prius plug in…what do u guys think?

Pulled out of storage and RedPxl fired right up! Starting the new year off at 170,636km. Installed a new dash cam since the old one stopped working. I have a rebuilt cylinder head on the bench. Didn’t have the motivation to install it.

Interesting…I’ve gotten no more than 5.5L

Do not use aftermarket crank position sensors! I repeat, do not use aftermarket crank position sensors!!!! I just did one where the customer provided the sensor…works when the car is cold….dies when it warms up. Also take the time to check the wiring, a small nick in the wire can lead to intermittent issues. Good luck! Glad you got your engine running!

If the laptop won’t boot up, the HD has died. If it won’t connect via SDConnect, then the C4 MUX might be bricked, or it’s a configuration issue. Depending on the model of the computer, you can buy the HD that has the proper STAR software pre-installed from AliExpress. The seller may or may not walk you through getting it running. Make sure you buy a setup that’s compatible with C4 specifically. Good Luck. Iz

Check to see if the tube on the front RHS of the intake manifold has popped off or damaged. It’s for the MAP sensor. If it doesn’t see boost, it will limit power severely. There will be no CEL or codes when this happens. It can also leak some of the oil build up from inside the intake to the front of the engine. Iz

As for the STAR machine, I can help guide u to setup your own, but it’s basically a clone setup from China, not exactly reputable. I primarily use my Autel Mk906 Pro. It is able to code smart car keys though I’ve been running into issues lately - not sure if the aliexpress fobs are bad, I can only code OEM fobs. I previously have been able to, but lately have not had any success with aliexpress ones.

If the nozzles were OEM replacement, then no, not likely to affect the boost curve. With limp mode, boost is restricted and you will not get an accurate reading. Is the P1188 FC active? Or inactive? If it’s active, then it would be pretty conclusive that it is the root cause of the limp mode. I will be working on another smart this weekend. I can unplug my pump solenoid, will let u know if I get limp mode. i have seen where the wastegate was seized and as soon as the throttle is pressed, it goes straight to limp mode. Check to see if your wastegate is moving - if it is, then it is a start. Make sure the small tube/hose around the TIK is not ripped. If it is, then it acts like the wastegate is seized and you’ll go into limp mode the 1st time you hit the throttle. If you are able to rev past 3k, but lacks power severely, then check the small tube on the RHS front of the intake manifold, sometimes that tube pops off or rips and the MAP sensor doesn’t see boost and limits the power severely (basically no turbo). You won’t get a CEL with that. Also, just for kicks, monitor your rpm to make sure that it is limiting you to 3k. I worked on a smart car where the tach was reading wrong and the owner thought it was limp mode.

I think I have a few emulators laying around if I can find them - I’m not exactly organized! if you’ve changed to a high flow nozzle, potentially you’re altering the boost curve - more exhaust flow that your wastegate can’t dump in time. Use your scanner to monitor boost - you will need to max out load before you can get a good reading. Find a small hill that you can take a good run. 3rd/4th gear at 3.5k rpm under high load will give u a reliable reading. If you can hold 18psi for about 3-4sec, you’ll set the overboost limp mode (you may not get CEL).

Izzy is overrated! lol… The P1188 FC is a circuit code. This indicates that either the wiring to the high pressure pump solenoid is shorted/open, or the internals of the solenoid is shorted/open. If you unplug the solenoid, pay close attention to the wiring where it goes into the connector, common spot to have damages. I don’t think u can buy the solenoid on its own. Common telltale of a faulty solenoid or sensor is it leaks. Again, when u unplug the connector, is there fuel inside? It should be bone dry. When t/s common rail faults, it’s not enough to just monitor the rail pressure as it will vary depending on many factors. On your scanner, compare the fuel rail pressure request (from ECM) to the measured rail pressure (from sensor) on a graph with the engine running, and the pressure should follow the general trend even when reving the engine. its not common for our engines to get the P1188 FC, but I don’t think that it will cause a limp mode. I have not verify this, but overboost and EGR can cause limp modes without a code (short term). Good luck. Hope this information finds you well.