stickman007

Damn, I only started in April 2012!

🤦‍♂️

No CEL only means that the ECM did not logged a code. This could potentially be that the ECM shut off and that’s why it did not log any codes. If the ECM drops out, the CAN will have issues. Perform a load test to all your power/grounds to the ECM. If you have a scanner that’s capable of connecting to your ABS, airbag, SAM, or cluster module, you might get fault codes that will point to the culprit to the CAN issue - which module is dropping out.

I have a few decent used ones, but shipping will be crazy expensive as they’re bulky and heavy.

Had a friend's smart that's leaking oil at the front crank seal. I did not have any "proper" seal driver - didn't even have a socket big enough to do the job. It was also a tight spot with the rear spring in the way. So, I 3D printed a seal driver. Cracked the driver as I was low on time and 3D printed with only 30% infill. But it worked beautifully. With the seal driver on, I can now also brake clean the area without any contamination fall in. I will need to make some adjustments to the measurements. If anybody is interested in the file, sent me a pm.

Too bad we lost the wiki section, I had a page with diagrams and explanation on how to do this mod….and alternatives to the headlights as well.

After a few months of silence, I’ve been receiving requests to make some more plug and play EGR emulators. Please let me know if you would like one as I’ll be making another small batch of them. I’ll be putting in my PCB order in a day or two. If you’re buying 1, it’s $125 including shipping in Canada. If you’re buying more than one, pm me and I’ll give you a deal. Izzy

Our little get together for dinner at The Varsity.

I regularly go past 16psi. It’s closer to 18psi for 5s before the overboost limp mode kicks in. It doesn’t alway have a CEL. As Willy’s pointed out, basically the 2 main thing that will cause limp mode is EGR and overboost. Pulling the FC will tell you which is the culprit. P0405 will be a EGR circuit code - potentially shorted coil as voltage is low. An active code will not allow you to delete.

For a few days it was very slow with the error page opening often. It seems to be good lately without any issues.

Pic of YEGSmartie's cylinder - currently working on Valves from a previous OM660 cylinder head job with hard start symptom

I've come across a few higher mileage OM660 engines now. Similar symptoms, white smoky starts and long cranks with lots of misfires. I believe that most likely the issue is that your intake valves are burnt or completely worn. Rather than planning a full engine rebuild, (difficult to source parts for the bottom end), I would aim to pull the head and inspect your cylinder head. Replace your valve seals, intake valves, lifters (both exhaust/intake), rockers, and head bolts. Parts should run you about $800ish all together from the dealership and way less if you do aftermarket. I'm currently working on an engine with 220k and the cross hatch still looks great with no scoring on the cylinder walls. I'll post some pics with sunken intake vales. Check with Willys (Jonathan), I think he's our most recent guy to fully rebuild one of these engines if you want more tips. The few that I've replaced intake valves ran way nicer afterwards. Also pay attention to broken lifters and rockers - also a common issue if not the root cause to worn valves. Izzy

In all my experiences with Chinese turbos, they all spool significantly slower than the OEM turbo. The max psi is dependent on your rpm and load. In my experiences, tightening the nut will allow the wastegate to stay shut longer allowing you to build boost faster, but then you run the risk of overboost. I'm not sure of the exact numbers, but overboost will set if you go over 18psi for 5secs. Once overboost is set, you will lose power and cannot rev past 3k - you can cycle the ignition to reset. Overboost doesn't always get a CEL. Adjusting the wastegate on these Chinese turbos will not solve your slow spooling issue....the turbo lag will become more pronounce and you will constantly set overboost limp mode. On a flat road, it will allow you to be quicker, but then as soon as you hit a steep hill, or downshift to pass on the highway, you will go into limp mode when you need power the most. My 2 cent.

Working on @YEGSmartie’s car. It has over 200k. cylinder #3 hydraulic lifter snapped apart i I don’t have any pics yet, but all higher mileage om660 seems to have burnt or worn intake valves. The seats are fine, but valves are sharp. The exhausts appear to be in perfect shape.

I’ve also had the privilege of running down to 0 before filling up, not by choice…very nerve racking. I made about 2km after hitting 0L before I reached a gas station. If the fuel in the tank has been sitting for awhile, the float may not read correctly (there was a thread here a while ago. Some call for fuel treatment to help). In most highway driving, you should get around 400km before the countdown. Izzy

I will be doing a full rebuild (whatever parts I can find) for a friend this fall. According to MB, I can’t even find piston rings now. Will have to hit up @Willys on where to source OEM or aftermarket engine internals. The 2 that I rebuild the heads for, the engine ran perfect. There was no significant wear to the intake seats nor the exhaust seats and valves. The intake valve edges on the other hand was sharp. I put new rockers, lifters and seals in both rebuilds. When the engine fires up, there was zero smoke! The one engine even had slight scoring on cylinder 3, but it seems the head made all the differences. Like Willys, I will post pics and make a thread when I do my next rebuild.

Haven't posted in this thread for awhile! Current mileage 167156km, still behind @MikeT In preparation for my BC trip, major maintenances were required as I've been slacking for the last little while: - New springs and struts all around with OEM springs and Bilstein struts. - Found that my rear bump stops were destroyed similar to Mike's - Added spacers to rear bearing mounts to decrease the negative camber to around -1 degree from the factory -2 degree - Put in a used turbo (just under 100k): the Chinese turbo that I had on there is finally having issues, 1) over boosting (waste gate diaphragm is leaking), 2) my turbo lag is increasing significantly, 3) the gasket between the body of the turbo and the muffler elbow is leaking pretty bad. - New tires - New fuel filter - New glow plugs - Flushed coolant - New Air filter - Oil service (faithfully Rotella T6 0W40) and MANN oil filter. The canister adapter I had on there just leaks like a bastard, so I removed it and went back to OEM - Hope to get a new windshield if I can get it in before Thursday! This winter, the cylinder head will be coming off for a cylinder head rebuild. I've been noticing rougher cold idle and smoke. A few other higher mileage Smarts that I've worked on seem to have the common issue of burnt intake valves. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with higher intake temps with the ECM tune.

@MikeT no problem, but if you ever come out to AB, let me know. If I know ahead of time, we can meet up in the mountains.

@MikeT my wife still to this day talk about that British Pub you took us to last time we were on the island! Too bad we don’t have time on this trip to take the ferry over. Maybe next year! @Henry no smart car require to hang out and grab food! I guess when we get closer to the date we can plan something. I have Mike’s number, but I don’t have yours Alan. If you still interested in meeting up, please pm me your number so that I can just txt you guys. Izzy

Hey guys, I will be passing through the lower mainlands next weekend. Plans aren’t solid yet, but I should be mostly free on Saturday 31st. Brunch/Lunch/Supper? I hope to be driving RedPxl…still working on it in the garage, but it’s looking good. Any smarties wanting to meet up? @smartzuuk - you have no choice as I’m crashing with you! Lol @MikeT - will you have Snowball fixed up before then? @Henry - if you haven’t solved your lighting issue, I’ll be happy to take a look Izzy

I think most of the Passion trims have power mirrors. Awesome you finally got back into a Smart!!! “one of us…one of us…one of us….”

I think evilution also has a break down of the mechanism. Essentially it’s a big lock washer that has stripped out of the groove.

Don’t have any new ones, but if u want an used one, pm me.

@goatman1 I probably have some left over parts that u can have. Just pay for shipping and they’re yours. I know I have some plugs printed with ASA and some PCBs that requires pins and maybe a resistor to finish. How many do u need? I also have a few bypass pipes made too. $10 each. Izzy

@Henry Hey Alan, Did you figured out your issue? If not, I’ll be coming down to Vancouver the end of August. If you haven’t figured out by then, let me know, and I’ll come take a look. BTW, did u check those clip fuses on the side of the SAM? If they’re in the wrong position, they will backfeed and power up the SAM. Also, check your EBox for corrosion as it controls all your lighting. Izzy