stickman007

If your codes are active, deal with the P0947 TCM low voltage first - could cause all the other codes. Good Luck, Iz

I'm not that familiar with the 451, but if I remembered correctly, some of the them has issues with the clutch plate binding to transmission input shaft. When the ECM sees rpm on the input shaft when the clutch is supposed to be engaged, it will prevent starting and sometimes have very rough/weird shifts. Good Luck, Iz

If you buy a used SAM, then you’ll have to use special tools to “clone” it. Otherwise you’ll have odometer mismatch and possibly programming issues. if you buy new from the dealership, then it’s just expensive.

Misfiring codes for our diesel 450 in my experience is almost always related to intake valves. Sometimes the lifter is seizing or broken (wouldn't be intermittent if broken), other times is worn or burnt intake valves causing compression lost. Good luck! Iz

Best of luck!

I’ve seen this before on a smart that I had worked on. Ended up being the SAM - the guy had corrosion due to a water leak at the windshield. Good Luck

We're meeting on Sat in St. Albert Triple-O at 5pm.

The clutch actuator position may trip the P0805, but it’s unclear at this point. You should be able to push the actuator rod all the way back in before installation. Make sure the clutch fork pivot point where the rod goes in is not worn or punched through. You will not be able to push the fork with your fingers - it’s basically the spring tension that keeps the clutch engaged. If you’ve already changed the clutch actuator, then you’ll need to check your wires/harnesses. You'll also need a scanner that can do clutch/drag point calibration similar to the STAR. I have an Autel Mk906 pro that can do that. I’m sure there are plenty of other scanners out there that can do it as well.

Old topic, also discovered that if the cluster stays on, it will code the FOB (lock/unlock) but the immobilizer will stay locked. This usually happens when someone messes with the fuse clips on the side of the SAM - no plugged back in correctly.

Old topic, but I finally came across a Car2Go! STAR basically says there are ways to code keys. 1) Reinitialize SAM setup, or 2) get the Car2Go password. The Car2Go SAM software is different than the normal one. Not sure if the hardware is different. Another challenge with this one that I’m working on is that the owner was only given the spare and not master key. Will report back once I have it figured out. Iz

If you are getting circuit codes, then the basic thing to do is the check your wiring. They may appear okay on the outside, but internally wires can be broken due to vibrations. Disconnect your ECM and test each circuit going to the actuator. Load test your power and ground circuits to start. Evilution.co.uk will have some sort of wiring schematics to help. Good luck, Izzy

Some pics of the intake valves? Normally the wear is on the valve and not the seat. Maybe rebuildable. I don’t usually see issues with the short block.

Most likely worn intake valves.

I have one, but I imagine that shipping something that size will cost an arm and leg. Let me know if you’re not able to source one locally.

@ZCMK123 The OEM connector is readily available. Plug and Play. I know guys that are running the Amazon 7” fan and those draw about 80w. This quad fan setup only does around 67.2w max - should have no problem. I have a scangauge2. If you want one, @Avenge95 has one for sale I think. @MikeT Today’s ambient was 32-35C. Going at 110kph, I had steady 103C coolant and IAT 50C. It peaked 108C coolant and IAT at 59C (highest recorded yet) going up hill with A/c in max. @MikeT maybe I’ll finally catch up to your mileage? I’m at 178k. Thought about selling it to get an Abarth 500, but the thing with Smart cars is most people won’t appreciate the Brabus C1. I won’t sell to someone that’ll trash it (which is basically everyone in AB). Only time will tell if the server fans will hold up to road abuse and moisture. I might also add a controller so that at idle the fans wont be at full power to help with the noise.

Updates. Lately the outside ambient temp has been well over 25-30C - a good time to test my designs. The 5" fan bracket that was printed with PETG warped, but did not caused any issues. Have been able to maintain IAT around 50-60C. Highest peak was at 80C. I've printed a new one with PA6-GF (should be able to withstand close to 200C). The quad fan bracket was printed with PA6-GF with 8038 12v 16.8w server cooling fans. Took a trip to Jasper (roundtrip 750km) yesterday. The IAT never went above 54C with average around 35-40C. Might be placebo effect, but I definitely felt the engine having more grunt. I did not have to downshift when setting cruise when going up hill on hwy16. The biggest downside to the quad fan setup is - it's freaking loud. When driving, you can barely hear it, but in the parking lot, it sounds like a jet engine taking off. This one was taken in the morning - ambient was only 15C

If you search h diy obd2 gauge, you’ll find many different setup. Real time mpg is a calculated value, it’ll depend on your coding. If you’re not already familiar with arduino/esp/raspberry pi, then just buy the scangauge2.

She came out to my place. We ended up destroying the exterior door handle to extract. I had a few spare parts and was able to install. All working now. Door panel cannot be remove if the door cannot be opened. The culprit ended up being a seized door handle cable. The cable was seized 1/2 way so the door mechanism wouldn’t release fully causing interior to not work.

Once the signal has been confirmed at the SAM - via a scanner. The next point to check is the Canadian eBox. Most of the exterior lighting goes through the eBox unlike our European counterparts.

Haven't contributed to the site in a while, but here it goes. I've been dragging my heels in replacing my failed intercooler fan - mostly due to cost. The intercooler fan use to around $180 from the dealership, now the last I had checked, it was over $400!! It may seem like a none essential component, but I've realized that on a hot day, it is definitely essential! My IAT reads close to 120C when going uphills on a 25C day. I don't know if its the root cause of intake manifold blowing up (its made of plastic and I've seen a few cases now), but I can definitely see it happening if high intake temps with 17psi of boost sustaining for a long period of time on a hot day. Here's the solution: Mounted an Amazon 5" radiator fan on to a 3D printed bracket. Printed with PETG filament, should be okay around 60C-70C temporary. The pics were from a prototype test fit. I haven't taken pics of the one I installed on to my car. Tested yesterday at 25C ambient temp. On a continuous hillclimb going 104km/hr, the IAT never reached past 69C. I will probably make another with a 6" fan if this one holds up. 7" fan appears to be too big. If there's enough interests in these fan brackets, I'll print them with polycarbonate or polypropylene once I have a solid design.

The easiest way to narrow down the issue is to use an obd2 scanner to monitor the brake signal before digging into wires. There should be 2 brake signal - one is a N/C and the other is N/O (one of the ABS/TC and the other for the eBox).

I have a custom 3D printed bracket that mounts the scangauge2 above the mirror as well. The Scangauge is probably the most simple/compact setup to track mileage/fuel economy and double as a digital gauge. You could make your own with bits and pieces using an arduino if you’re nerdy enough. There are a lot of DIY digital obd2 gauges online instructions, but if it’s only for keeping track of fuel economy, highly recommend just getting a scangauge.

I think LooseLugNut is right. You can confirm by taking the battery cable off the alternator stud and see if there's an eyelet with broken wire there. The only other single wires on that section of the harness is: a/c compressor, a/c pressure switch x2, and starter S....if I remembered correctly.

Sorry for the late post, its been a busy spring for most of us. Here are some pics that were sent to me for our 5th AB Smart Car Rally. Too bad some of our long timers couldn't make it this year, but we still ended up having a great time. We followed last year's itinerary.

MikeT has a Canada1 Edition - Alcantara dash