stickman007

If the laptop won’t boot up, the HD has died. If it won’t connect via SDConnect, then the C4 MUX might be bricked, or it’s a configuration issue. Depending on the model of the computer, you can buy the HD that has the proper STAR software pre-installed from AliExpress. The seller may or may not walk you through getting it running. Make sure you buy a setup that’s compatible with C4 specifically. Good Luck. Iz

Check to see if the tube on the front RHS of the intake manifold has popped off or damaged. It’s for the MAP sensor. If it doesn’t see boost, it will limit power severely. There will be no CEL or codes when this happens. It can also leak some of the oil build up from inside the intake to the front of the engine. Iz

As for the STAR machine, I can help guide u to setup your own, but it’s basically a clone setup from China, not exactly reputable. I primarily use my Autel Mk906 Pro. It is able to code smart car keys though I’ve been running into issues lately - not sure if the aliexpress fobs are bad, I can only code OEM fobs. I previously have been able to, but lately have not had any success with aliexpress ones.

If the nozzles were OEM replacement, then no, not likely to affect the boost curve. With limp mode, boost is restricted and you will not get an accurate reading. Is the P1188 FC active? Or inactive? If it’s active, then it would be pretty conclusive that it is the root cause of the limp mode. I will be working on another smart this weekend. I can unplug my pump solenoid, will let u know if I get limp mode. i have seen where the wastegate was seized and as soon as the throttle is pressed, it goes straight to limp mode. Check to see if your wastegate is moving - if it is, then it is a start. Make sure the small tube/hose around the TIK is not ripped. If it is, then it acts like the wastegate is seized and you’ll go into limp mode the 1st time you hit the throttle. If you are able to rev past 3k, but lacks power severely, then check the small tube on the RHS front of the intake manifold, sometimes that tube pops off or rips and the MAP sensor doesn’t see boost and limits the power severely (basically no turbo). You won’t get a CEL with that. Also, just for kicks, monitor your rpm to make sure that it is limiting you to 3k. I worked on a smart car where the tach was reading wrong and the owner thought it was limp mode.

I think I have a few emulators laying around if I can find them - I’m not exactly organized! if you’ve changed to a high flow nozzle, potentially you’re altering the boost curve - more exhaust flow that your wastegate can’t dump in time. Use your scanner to monitor boost - you will need to max out load before you can get a good reading. Find a small hill that you can take a good run. 3rd/4th gear at 3.5k rpm under high load will give u a reliable reading. If you can hold 18psi for about 3-4sec, you’ll set the overboost limp mode (you may not get CEL).

Izzy is overrated! lol… The P1188 FC is a circuit code. This indicates that either the wiring to the high pressure pump solenoid is shorted/open, or the internals of the solenoid is shorted/open. If you unplug the solenoid, pay close attention to the wiring where it goes into the connector, common spot to have damages. I don’t think u can buy the solenoid on its own. Common telltale of a faulty solenoid or sensor is it leaks. Again, when u unplug the connector, is there fuel inside? It should be bone dry. When t/s common rail faults, it’s not enough to just monitor the rail pressure as it will vary depending on many factors. On your scanner, compare the fuel rail pressure request (from ECM) to the measured rail pressure (from sensor) on a graph with the engine running, and the pressure should follow the general trend even when reving the engine. its not common for our engines to get the P1188 FC, but I don’t think that it will cause a limp mode. I have not verify this, but overboost and EGR can cause limp modes without a code (short term). Good luck. Hope this information finds you well.

Damn, I only started in April 2012!

🤦‍♂️

No CEL only means that the ECM did not logged a code. This could potentially be that the ECM shut off and that’s why it did not log any codes. If the ECM drops out, the CAN will have issues. Perform a load test to all your power/grounds to the ECM. If you have a scanner that’s capable of connecting to your ABS, airbag, SAM, or cluster module, you might get fault codes that will point to the culprit to the CAN issue - which module is dropping out.

I have a few decent used ones, but shipping will be crazy expensive as they’re bulky and heavy.

Had a friend's smart that's leaking oil at the front crank seal. I did not have any "proper" seal driver - didn't even have a socket big enough to do the job. It was also a tight spot with the rear spring in the way. So, I 3D printed a seal driver. Cracked the driver as I was low on time and 3D printed with only 30% infill. But it worked beautifully. With the seal driver on, I can now also brake clean the area without any contamination fall in. I will need to make some adjustments to the measurements. If anybody is interested in the file, sent me a pm.

Too bad we lost the wiki section, I had a page with diagrams and explanation on how to do this mod….and alternatives to the headlights as well.

After a few months of silence, I’ve been receiving requests to make some more plug and play EGR emulators. Please let me know if you would like one as I’ll be making another small batch of them. I’ll be putting in my PCB order in a day or two. If you’re buying 1, it’s $125 including shipping in Canada. If you’re buying more than one, pm me and I’ll give you a deal. Izzy

Our little get together for dinner at The Varsity.

I regularly go past 16psi. It’s closer to 18psi for 5s before the overboost limp mode kicks in. It doesn’t alway have a CEL. As Willy’s pointed out, basically the 2 main thing that will cause limp mode is EGR and overboost. Pulling the FC will tell you which is the culprit. P0405 will be a EGR circuit code - potentially shorted coil as voltage is low. An active code will not allow you to delete.

For a few days it was very slow with the error page opening often. It seems to be good lately without any issues.

Pic of YEGSmartie's cylinder - currently working on Valves from a previous OM660 cylinder head job with hard start symptom

I've come across a few higher mileage OM660 engines now. Similar symptoms, white smoky starts and long cranks with lots of misfires. I believe that most likely the issue is that your intake valves are burnt or completely worn. Rather than planning a full engine rebuild, (difficult to source parts for the bottom end), I would aim to pull the head and inspect your cylinder head. Replace your valve seals, intake valves, lifters (both exhaust/intake), rockers, and head bolts. Parts should run you about $800ish all together from the dealership and way less if you do aftermarket. I'm currently working on an engine with 220k and the cross hatch still looks great with no scoring on the cylinder walls. I'll post some pics with sunken intake vales. Check with Willys (Jonathan), I think he's our most recent guy to fully rebuild one of these engines if you want more tips. The few that I've replaced intake valves ran way nicer afterwards. Also pay attention to broken lifters and rockers - also a common issue if not the root cause to worn valves. Izzy

In all my experiences with Chinese turbos, they all spool significantly slower than the OEM turbo. The max psi is dependent on your rpm and load. In my experiences, tightening the nut will allow the wastegate to stay shut longer allowing you to build boost faster, but then you run the risk of overboost. I'm not sure of the exact numbers, but overboost will set if you go over 18psi for 5secs. Once overboost is set, you will lose power and cannot rev past 3k - you can cycle the ignition to reset. Overboost doesn't always get a CEL. Adjusting the wastegate on these Chinese turbos will not solve your slow spooling issue....the turbo lag will become more pronounce and you will constantly set overboost limp mode. On a flat road, it will allow you to be quicker, but then as soon as you hit a steep hill, or downshift to pass on the highway, you will go into limp mode when you need power the most. My 2 cent.

Working on @YEGSmartie’s car. It has over 200k. cylinder #3 hydraulic lifter snapped apart i I don’t have any pics yet, but all higher mileage om660 seems to have burnt or worn intake valves. The seats are fine, but valves are sharp. The exhausts appear to be in perfect shape.

I’ve also had the privilege of running down to 0 before filling up, not by choice…very nerve racking. I made about 2km after hitting 0L before I reached a gas station. If the fuel in the tank has been sitting for awhile, the float may not read correctly (there was a thread here a while ago. Some call for fuel treatment to help). In most highway driving, you should get around 400km before the countdown. Izzy

I will be doing a full rebuild (whatever parts I can find) for a friend this fall. According to MB, I can’t even find piston rings now. Will have to hit up @Willys on where to source OEM or aftermarket engine internals. The 2 that I rebuild the heads for, the engine ran perfect. There was no significant wear to the intake seats nor the exhaust seats and valves. The intake valve edges on the other hand was sharp. I put new rockers, lifters and seals in both rebuilds. When the engine fires up, there was zero smoke! The one engine even had slight scoring on cylinder 3, but it seems the head made all the differences. Like Willys, I will post pics and make a thread when I do my next rebuild.

Haven't posted in this thread for awhile! Current mileage 167156km, still behind @MikeT In preparation for my BC trip, major maintenances were required as I've been slacking for the last little while: - New springs and struts all around with OEM springs and Bilstein struts. - Found that my rear bump stops were destroyed similar to Mike's - Added spacers to rear bearing mounts to decrease the negative camber to around -1 degree from the factory -2 degree - Put in a used turbo (just under 100k): the Chinese turbo that I had on there is finally having issues, 1) over boosting (waste gate diaphragm is leaking), 2) my turbo lag is increasing significantly, 3) the gasket between the body of the turbo and the muffler elbow is leaking pretty bad. - New tires - New fuel filter - New glow plugs - Flushed coolant - New Air filter - Oil service (faithfully Rotella T6 0W40) and MANN oil filter. The canister adapter I had on there just leaks like a bastard, so I removed it and went back to OEM - Hope to get a new windshield if I can get it in before Thursday! This winter, the cylinder head will be coming off for a cylinder head rebuild. I've been noticing rougher cold idle and smoke. A few other higher mileage Smarts that I've worked on seem to have the common issue of burnt intake valves. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with higher intake temps with the ECM tune.

@MikeT no problem, but if you ever come out to AB, let me know. If I know ahead of time, we can meet up in the mountains.

@MikeT my wife still to this day talk about that British Pub you took us to last time we were on the island! Too bad we don’t have time on this trip to take the ferry over. Maybe next year! @Henry no smart car require to hang out and grab food! I guess when we get closer to the date we can plan something. I have Mike’s number, but I don’t have yours Alan. If you still interested in meeting up, please pm me your number so that I can just txt you guys. Izzy