stickman007

Here's the WIS install info on the Canadian airbag shut off that I found...I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to make something like this? I have a little electrical box (plastic) that can be mod to look stock Retrofit_airbag_shutoff_switch.pdf

Curious, are the drawings to scale?

Great to report that my IAT is clean!!! The mod worked, (so far)! The weather has been pretty cold (-11C in the morning) this past wk so I imagine that the oil vapours would condense easier. The real test on its effectiveness would be in warmer weather?I checked my bottle this afternoon and got to see that it had about <1cm of slug at the bottom, its been 2 wks since this mod.

This is a feeler, not sure if this is the right forum to post in.I'm definitely in love with these smart fortwo cdi, but due to my currently location, (Williams Lake), my carbio is not exactly a good choice. I want to see if anybody would like to trade their coupe for my cabrio. I feel really guilty leaving my soft top dirty, but even if I wash it daily, it'll still be covered in dust from the mill 2km down the street, and mud from dirt roads.I'm open to buying one with a dead engine so that I can just swap engine, and keep the cabrio as a part car.This is what I currently have for my cabrio if anybody is interested.2005 Pulse cdi- 110,000km (under)- paddle shift, tach, clock- roadster rims (winter) & pulse rims (summer)- remapped at 108,000km (Uncle Glenn)- EGR housing deleted, EGR emulator, heat exchanger hoses bypassed- DIY oil catch can- Evilution ESP disable switch- single DIN dvd deck (folds up)- driver side heated seat- vertical wiper mod- TK's restrictor mod- intercooler scoop mod- K&N filter- Custom hitch 1 1/4" (used for my bike rack)I have complete details/records of the car since day 1 of ownership.It doesn't need anything fixed except for a small crack on the exhaust manifold and small crack on the vinyl window (currently covered with clear gorilla tape)Not really interested in getting out of the smart car scene, just want a coupeIzzy

Yeah, its fun to see things wedge into a smart :)One of the first thing I did for my 450 was to weld a hitch to replace the crash beam, and use a cheap hitch mounted rack. Total cost was under $200. A typical yakima setup costed over $600!

Any pics? I have a medium frame Specialized CF Stumpjumper (mountain bike) and I can't seem to fit it inside no matter how I twist it. Would love to see how you guys do it out of curiosity

I was hoping that was the case...unfortunately, mine actually broke in 2 pieces. I think the previous owner pushed too hard when he changed the bulb?? Some super glue will fix it up...might use some left over JB weld to reinforce

MikeT: Very jealous, its -1C and muggy here at the WL, and everything is wet and muddy :(Utoplacdi: Good luck!! Bring a charger along so you can plug it in at a truck shop?? Just like an EV LOL!!I pulled my front off today hoping to change out a burnt headlight bulb only to find that my driver side headlight assembly is broken on the inside! (the top adjuster is snapped off internally). I just finished removing the assembly and will be repairing it somehow tonite once I can warm up the housing to remove the plastic lens. While I felt pretty unaccomplished...I decided to do the vertical wiper mod while the front is off, worked like a charm!

While bleeding my coolant system, I had my coolant temperature sensor unplugged and that caused my temperature gauge on the dash to flash. Leaning with MikeT, I'm guessing it goes the same for fuel whenever the circuit is broken completely, the gauge will flash. Have them check for wiring/connector problems.

HAHAHA...why isn't the technique discussed in hyper-milling forums!??

That was my thought too, its open now...will check on the IAT sensor in a week or so to see if there's any change, (its completely clean now)

Thanks for the feedback!I put the cap on the top because its easier to check how much oil is inside. I felt that it was easy enough to just suck it out with the pela pump when I do my oil change. I connected it back to the intake because when the engine cools, the air that gets sucked back in is filtered, (that and keeping my tailgate clean). Time will tell how effective this setup will be. I can also cut the bottle open and extend the suction tube and add steel wool or something like that to filter. Originally I wanted to braze/solder, but the local industrial supply store is out of the right type of braze rods and solder...JB weld it was.Izzy

I'm sick and tired of finding oil in my intercooler, and hopefully this will help. I've tried draining the oil directly onto the ground, but its leaving stains on the back of my tailgate.I tried to make something similar to what tolsen had, but can't find any materials close enough. I'm hoping that the crank case fumes will at least spin as it enters into the bottle (the lower fitting), and leave back towards the intake (the upper fitting)...MSR fuel bottle $20JB Weld $10Cooper fittings $1 x 2 Izzy

Yes you'll still need the blocking plate if you remove the mixing housing. I just made mine using a piece of aluminum flat-bar, (~2mm thick) so far so good, no leaks.

I believe they keep them for 90 days, (at least with JD). If they auditor doesn't come by to check, then the dealership can do whatever they want with them...most of the time - trash/metal recycling

Use a flat blade or fingers to make sure there's no slack on the timing chain with the oil cap off...can't really check the oil pump chain though (as far as I know)Izzy

Return trip from Williams Lake BC to Lacombe AB. Oil/Filter changed. Checked filter for metal flakes. Checked Timing Chain tension. Ready for trip to Vancouver tomorrow!Juan de Fuca area is by the West Coast Trail right? I did that this summer! 75km hike, lucky me! no rain for 9 days straight.When I was living in AB, did a lot of backpacking trips in the winter. Agree with Alex, the right gears and a fire is the determining factors to a good or bad camping trip!

Not sure if you checked this site out yet. Lots of good pictures of their installation. http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/rcts_iweb...stoFurnace.html Good luck!

Yeah, I got that a lot here at WL....everyone thinks that the only way to drive is with a lifted truck. I'm in Lacombe AB (1010km), this wkend and it costed me $50 driving 120km/h most of the way. I can never forget the priceless look on their face when I pull out to pass...I hurt a lot of feelings on the road

Hi guys,The routing of our coolant hoses actually flows like this:Thermostat => EGR heat exchanger => heater core => joins up with the radiator return hose => water pumpOnce the engine is lowered, you'll be able to see that from the thermostat assembly, a coolant hose curves around on the side of the engine (under/side of the injector pump) into the EGR heat exchanger. Another hose leaves the heat exchanger and routes on the left side of the intercooler then around the top (near the original area of the thermostat) and towards the heater core. What I did was simpily cut that heat exchanger hose shorter and it lines up with the thermostat. The inner diameter of the hose is a bit small compared to the outlet of the thermostat, but at the end of the day I got it in. Nothing to plug, but I blew out all the coolant that was left in the heat exchanger and cap both openings just to prevent crap from getting in. I will remove the heat exchanger and cap the exhaust openingat the turbo to the EGR when I remove the turbo assembly to fix my cracked manifold issue on march. Hope this info helps.Izzy

Thanks for the confidence Bil, but my description is probably no better, (far probably worst that you guys!)...I'm new this the world of Smart carsHere's my findings so far, very similar to the other reports found on this forum:TK's plug works fantastic! I get heat in the car when I drive to work!...I drive 4.5km to work and in -8C weather, I usually get 1 blob when I pull into the parking lot, now I have 2.Glenn's map is significantly more power than stock, I can now hold my speed going up hill...blab blab blab, you guys heard it all. I'm also noticing a slight clutch drag as Z1K has mentioned, I originally just attributed it to my clutch problems, (slips a lot more on take off now too). About the shifting speed, I was really annoyed the stock map when shifting from 3rd to 4th...a longer delay, (about 0.5-0.75s slower than the rest of the gear)...with Glenn's map, its almost completely gone! (has anybody else experience this?). I'm curious to try an even faster shifting map that Z1K has mentioned.I don't have a scan gauge, or auto to know the shift points. I feel the turbo kicking in harder, (~2k, depending on how heavy my foot is), it was barely noticeable in stock. I don't have a boost gauge to confirm. As for the increased noise, it pulses with the rpm, so my guess is due to my leaking exhaust manifold? I can't tell the difference between leaking exhaust or valve train noise when I'm driving...most noticeable around 2.2-3k - the road noise usually takes over after that. I'm heading down to Vancouver next wk, so I'll find out fuel economy soon. It was 4.2l/100km going to Vancouver last fall...we'll see what it is now. Will take the Coquihalla to test speed limiter?I'm definitely satisfied with Glenn's map. Bang for the buck, it's better than anything I can of, can't go wrong with at least trying it.Izzy

There's a couple different cross numbers...but I use CR1225This member has a few, I pm him, and he's going to send me a couple http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry296989

Hahaha...

I just recently sent my ECU to Uncle Glenn for a remap. From what I gathered, he simply plugged my ECU into another Smart that he had, flashed it that way. Based on that, I think the ECUs are not specific to the VIN or SAM. Don't know enough to confirm, but that's my guess.Izzy

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