stickman007

I never understood how people are doing that until I got mine remapped...its still noisier under 2k though for me

I've never ever seen a post where you're complaining about something! Either you're a very lucky man, or just have a great attitude in life :)To be honest, I think I was in a hurry to get my ECU...compared to the frustrations I had to deal with UPS/DHL, its not that bad in comparison...I was upset at the wedding invitations and bills though. Uncle Glenn was saying that CP has been really good to him too. I'm thinking its a WL thing...Izzy

I tell my students everything! As a teacher, there's no such thing as a private life :(There is no such thing as equality in this world either, its an abstract concept, (exists only as an ideal)...the thing that frustrates me, is that most people don't understand that.Well, mods done, ECU back in...car is alive!Izzy

Have not wired up switch yet...still running it with the cigarette outlet. Warms up fast, but yes, will have to see how it holds up

Mod list:1) Delete EGR coolant hose => since I removed my EGR housing, deleting the hose cleared up a lot of space and less rubbing/chaffing around the intake hose area2) Trimmed Intercooler Scoop => PITA, but done3) Patched up chaffed wires in the passenger side harness => reinforced and added protection on wear spots4) ECU remapped by Uncle Glenn => Wow is all I can say (yes, I'm kicking myself for not doing this earlier! Yes I've been told)5) Installed Tolsen's restrictor plug => can't give an accurate opinion yet6) Plugged the TIK hole, and vent Crank case fumes directly on the ground with a long hose => no oil drips yetBad news, I somehow cracked the coolant temp sensor while trying to bleed it the system...Its not showing me the flashing temperature gauge (if unplugged), but I only got 2 blob after driving for a while. Not sure if broke it internally causing it to read faulty, (-4C outside, heavy snow)...BUT from a purely comfort standpoint, I think I got heat in the car way faster, (placebo effect?)...I will order a new sensor tomorrow...Note on the remap:The car seems a bit noisier under acceleration, but that might be because I haven't driven it in 2 weeks, (not used to it, or paranoia?). I've never seen this much power gain with just a remap on gassers! I got chills when I felt the turbo kicked in! With the heavy snow outside, its harder to tell exactly how much power gain with the butt-o-meter, but definitely some serious upgrade than before. The shift is way faster.2 weeks of working outside in the snow...when the car fired up, my frozen fingers and toes melted...simile on my face :)Izzy

Thanks for joining the rant!!So I ended up cheating :(I know I'm not suppose to pull strings, but I bumped into a parent (yes I'm a teacher...eh eh eh) that works there (by luck)...she went to the back and pull my package out! The lady at the front desk wasn't impressed cause she said that there's nothing she could do when I asked the first time.Izzy

I'm so upset at the post office in Williams Lake!I sent my ECU out to uncle Glenn in Ontario and it them 4 freaking days to get it down to Richmond, BC! It took 12 days to send a small package domestically!Tolsen sent me the restrictor plug from the other side of the world and I got it in a little more than a week! (I sent it to a commercial address though...)Uncle Glenn did the remap, and sent it out the door the next day via Express post...the package is now in WL since Sunday, they dropped off the pickup slip in my mailbox this morning, but they won't give me the package till tomorrow after 1:30pm!!! Why?!!?!Recently I got bills in the mail that came AFTER the bill was due! I got my buddy's wedding invitation finally in the mail last week, when the wedding was in Oct long wkend!!! (Luckily they called me to confirm...and I did go to the wedding). But how is this kind of service acceptable?? WL isn't that small...Izzy

Hi Andreas,I use to be a VW guy...if you ever intend to work on your car, get yourself a Bentley service manual!! vwvortex.com has a wealth of resources...(people aren't as nice as CsC though).

I have a friend that works for Shaw Media and is always looking for a good story...when I get bored, definitely would be fun to try!!

I have an OEM one that I'd never use...pm me if you're interested.

Thanks guys! I was aware that it will probably come back due to the welding process... I was going to remove the assembly, prep it, and bolt it down before the welding to prevent warping. WL may have lousy mechanics, but we have welders with super powers. I didn't think the muffler cement will not hold either, but it was in my toolbox from my wrenching days, so I thought I'll give it a try, (it comes with a metal mesh that can be use to reinforce rated to 2000C). Can't loose the car for another week right now, so I will try it during my up coming long wkend.Izzy

Part of the problem is that I have no garage. I get minor leaks when the weather switches back and forth from warm to cold. I think freezing and thawing cycle actually cause my top not to seal nicely. But I've never had any leaks from the summer rain.It does leak on my passenger door by the mirror when I hose it down washing the carIzzy

Thanks for the tips Dom, I do plan on doing the work myself...I don't trust anybody to touch my car like most of the mechanics on this forum. I checked with the stealership in Kamloops and they wanted $1562.40 for the assembly and another $10.62 for the gasket...not including studs! I think Eddy in Vancouver sells the assembly for $1300ish + tax. I've found some exhaust repair putty...I figure I would just grind into the crack and apply them in-situ? If it doesn't work, then I'll remove and weld, (temporary or not). What do you think?Izzy

The place that gave you those quotes sound fishy...sway bar replacement in a 2005 car? HP pump replacement this soon?, (ran without fuel filter? pump cavitation?). What's next? muffler bearings or headlight fluids?

Put your names on a proper list then. You would likely have to be prepared to pay in advance of production. I'm not sure who would be ready to quarterback this (maybe Leipa?), but a list of people prepared to commit to purchase would be an incentive for several of us who might consider it.1. blitz2. stickman0073.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.

I'm thinking about leaving it for now...I think the only thing that it kills is my fuel mileage. I know a couple of amazing welders here at the puddle, maybe they can help me out. My welding skills sucks...On the evilution page, one guy drilled/cut to relief stress points...maybe I'll try that. But at the risk of loosing a car for a while if I fail...maybe I should just save up and pick up one from Eddy. No parts dealer anywhere near the puddle...the forgotten freezing north.Izzy

Hi guys,I've noticed a small crack on my exhaust manifold while working on my car this past week. I'm aware that the gassers are plagued with crack manifold problems...anybody else experienced this with the cdi? Is welding the manifold a reasonable repair? I really don't want to spend $1500 for a new assembly. Ideas anyone?Izzy

I'm up for one too...maybe 2

Intercooler back in without any problems...with the X-support removed, the turbo outlet hose went in very easily. Everything torqued and wiring zip tied. Just waiting on Canada Post for my ECU to fire up the car

The weather was actually really nice to me yesterday. I wasn't cold or wet, I didn't even have to use gloves. The pic above was before the sun was out, so it looked more miserable than it really was. I wish you luck as you tackle your adventures :)I thought about trimming the housing while it was still in the car, but got greedy and wanted to pull the wiring harness out too. Mine is back in the car now...next time if I have to remove the scoop, I'm dropping the subframe on the lowering bolts rather than trying to squeeze/twist it in with the evilution lowering method.Izzy

Thanks Glenn!Word of advice to anybody reading this thread: "Never remove the intercooler scoop or plastic housing if possible!" I thought it was a pain to get it out, it was far worst getting it back in! It doesn't help with the engine lowered, the lower scoop will lock against the firewall and you won't be able to manoeuvre the top or bottom piece back in place. When the engine is up, you can see it, but your hands will not be able to get to where it needs to be. It is possible that I just suck, but it was once of the most frustrating things I've done. I use to think working on a Subaru STI engine/tranny is a pain...its child's play compared to the Smart :(Next on the list, intercooler goes back in...Izzy

I also removed the EGR coolant hoses...I cut the one that goes to the heater matrix short and plug it into the thermostat housing... I hope that'll speed up heating time too due to lesser amount of coolant and increase in flow?

I took some pictures while was checking out my harness...and people wonder why we have electrical issues Izzy

What about modifying hockey pucks? I know the VDub guys do it all the time.Izzy

Now that my intercooler scoop is out and the engine is lowered, I unplugged all the connectors on the actuator side and checked the wirings like Tolsen suggested. I even removed some of the hard plastic tubes, (that caused the wire chaffing), and rewrapped them with loom, shrink tubed the ends... MB really didn't do that good of a job with the wirings/harness...so far, quite a few places have chaffing from those hard "protector" tubes...Izzy