flekker

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About flekker

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    ontario
  1. Got the smart running today. Pulled the carpet out of the car to gain access to the wire harness. Ended up cutting the wire for the air bag because I could not find a plug. Removed all ground connections, cleaned and put back together. Found some grounds damaged in the engine bay. Also replaced the main engine ground. Removed the sam. Checked wire from sam to CPU. Everything checked out fine (evilution and fq 101 wire pin outs used) FYI all the wire location did not match. plugged everything back in and she started. Not sure what fixed it but I’ll keep my fingers crossed. Thank for the help everyone.
  2. So I checked the sam unit it getting power when the ignition is turned on and I have 12 in position 2 and 3. How ever is plugged a light into the injector socket (injector unplugged). First flash of the light is somewhat bright after that it flashes once every revolution but very dim. If I release the key and try a second time it cranks but no light at the injector (is this normal??). I have to double check and see if I losing my neg or positive feed. Hard to measure the volts but i would say maybe 6 volts or less and the first flash is probably around 10 volts. (just guessing here, but Im almost sure it's not getting 12 volts). Trying to figure out what direction to go here, since the signal for the injector are coming from the computer.
  3. EGR still connected, both installs have their own EGR First install was a clean EGR Second install I didn’t even check to see if it was blocked or not.
  4. I agree it has to be the wiring from the computer to the car. So far I found bad ground but no luck starting. Stickman gave a great suggestion on wires coming from ignition possibly braking the connection making the computer think the key was shut off and maybe thats why I also have no codes showing. Gonna check that this evening. I was too frustrated yesterday and had to take the time to figure out how to get the shifter knob off ( I figured my one idea of putting a chain around it, attach the other end to the tow hitch of my truck and flooring it was probably not a very good idea lol)
  5. The second engine I installed did not reuse anything from the original or the first replacement engine I thought had compression issues. I lucked out and found a complete package deal.( engine and tranny complete with all sensors, actuators harness etc) the only parts that were reused was the alternator, starter and ac compressor. I installed the engine, plugged the one harness in to the computer and the other to the glow plug module. After couple hours of running it quit while driving and now no start. The first replacement engine did almost the same thing.
  6. Does anyone have a wire diagram for a 2005 Smart Fortwo diesel they would like to share
  7. No check engine, display shows N. No error code.
  8. So I got another engine and transmission complete, All I had to do was plug the one harness into the computer (at the air box) and plug in the square plug to the slow plug computer (RH side of the engine on the frame). It ran fine for a couple hours. Ran really nice with quiet a frew start and stops. Other than an egr code . Absolutely no hiccups. Then I go to the store, shut the car off, started the car after about 10 min. It hesitates slightly drives for about 8 meters then dies. Does not want to start, sounds like it wants to. It’s doing the same thing as the last engine iI put in. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn it on. So now I’m thinking it has to be on the car side. Since I have no check engine light could it be the computer.
  9. Just swapped the high pressure pump and no change. It cranks like it wants to but no go. Not even with quick start, it just alarmist wants to but go. All 3 injector are a getting a pulse signal as well. What would be considered low compression on these engines. I’ll have to pick up diesel compression tester tomorrow. Other than that I’m at a lost. Any help would be appreciated
  10. For now I’ll install the pump from the old engine and see what happens before I rebuild this one.
  11. I have noticed that if I crack the line at any injector, when the key is turned to the on position and the low pressure pump is running fuel starts squirting out.( not cranking the engine ) Is that normal ?? Should it not only squirt fuel only when the high pressure pump is engaged ( engine cranking )
  12. Thanks for the suggestions Willys. No, the high pressure pump was not rebuilt and the low pressure pump works fine. At least I think so, I used it to drain the tank. Coolant issue was incorrect info on my part no issues there. I was looking at the oil pressure light. Sensor was bad and was replaced. The white plug in battery box is corroded and green, will have to fix that. (Car started fine with old engine). No I did not check spray pattern on injectors ( don’t have the equipment for this), but I swapped the injects from the running engine into it. I did have a corrode terminal on the brown connector at the sam unit and rectified it this was when the old engine was still installed and it started fine. The only difference is the engine. Old engine started fine so for now I’m ruling out anything that did not get replaced. I left all the sensors on the diner engine and installed it as a package. Parts that I’ve swapped from the old running engine into the car so far are, all 3 injectors and fuel rail pressure sensor. I have also tested the crank sensor resistance and it’s good.
  13. Could not get it to start came close couple of times but no go
  14. 900 ohms for the cranks sensor, all good there. LLN I’ll take it for a rip and see what gives. Is there anyone in the Lindsey area (150km) that has a proper scanner for smart cars
  15. I am still having a starting problem. it cranks like is wants to go, but no luck. if I keep at it it will eventually start. If it sits for more than an hour hard starting again. Outside temp is 10c. it will go with some quick start but not right away, maybe after about 10 min of trying. Hope someone can point me in the correct direction