Xen0

I have the same issue on my 06 Cabrio when I don't lube the wastegate arm at the poppet valve every few months. The valve tends to either not close all the way, or stick slightly on opening. Then it'll set a non-CEL overboost code on acceleration (usually ~2700rpm). I usually remove the rear to gain better access and I use a 15mm wrench that fits on the bracket to the valve. Open and close the valve with the wrench and lube with good penetrating oil. If it does happen, you can turn the car off for around 30 seconds (until you hear the relay click from the SAM under the dash), start up and drive with full power again until next time it sticks. A 3000rpm limp would be EGR most likely, follow any of the methods here to rid yourself of that curse. I used a blocking plate and an emulator myself, your smart will thank you for it!

Thought I should update my original thread. I ordered a replacement PTC heater from a junkyard in Quebec, replaced the heater and it works perfectly. I also had ordered an openport + xentry kit from Aliexpress and was able to dedicate an older i5 laptop to be my Xentry scantool. Xentry is an ESSENTIAL tool in my opinion, EV or not. I was able to access every system and clear every code. Car is working perfectly now with no remaining malfunctions.

Funny enough, AC compressor works great when it's connected. Found a chaffed harness on the right side of engine compartment, rubs against an HV wire mount. Found a few wires that had some of the insulation scuffed off, but the blue/white is completely broken. That happened to run to the AC compressor. Soldered and cleared the codes with Autel MaxiAP200 and AC is working! Too bad it's the wrong season for AC. Which brings me to the last piece of the puzzle, PTC heater is still not working. Tried the solder trick shown on evilution and no dice. Keep getting U145641 Implausible data from PTC heater code, although I can read live data from the heater so it's communicating on the CAN bus. Other odd thing is live data shows no HV voltage supply, and also 0% heat requested. Anyone have a spare heater to sell?

Anyone parting out an electric drive and has a working heater they'd like to part with? Thanks!

Delphi doesn't read EV systems it seems. I imagine the best bet is a Star system, been wanting an excuse to buy one. Which version is most compatible? C4? C5?

I bought a 14 Smart Electric Drive today that Mercedes has diagnosed with a shorted AC compressor. The car shows the EV System Workshop message, and there's no heat, power steering and of course AC. It does drive and charge ok. Anyone else have a problem like this before? I'm going to connect my Delphi DS150 and see if I can read codes, but I thought I'd check here to see if anyone has had a similar issue.

Looking for at least 2 rear steel wheels for a 2006 Cabrio. I have a set for 451, but the rear wheel offset is different. Would consider a set of alloys for 450 as well and I'll use my current alloys for my winter tires. I'm in Nova Scotia.

I did get my hands on this. I think it's the same OLS file that you have above, but it's been converted complete with the latest version of WinOLS to XDF. So it may be more complete, although unfortunately it's all in German. I don't have experience in either app, but learning as I go. Have a look and see if it's useful. Smart CDI 0281010161 351431.7z

I have found both engine and transmission here, but they are not free. It seems that there's many places now selling things that used to be shared on various message boards. Now, if they did create them from scratch then a cost is fine with me. Anyway, they want 50 euros for engine, and 60 for transmission. If I don't find anything else, I may send them a message and see if I can negotiate a bundle for a discount.

My fuel economy has improved a bit, it's been right around 4L/100km for the last couple months, with mixed highway, town and rural road about 50-60km's per day. I do have wider 195/55R15 rears, but nothing like yours. I think the 2" lift would be useful on what we call roads here in Nova Scotia . From my experience, I'm certain a remap would improve yours! I find the stock map works well enough at city speeds. I've blocked my EGR exhaust feed, and vented my CCV to atmosphere (both helped a lot). However, with the stock map, I have to shift to 5th on hills on the highway, and still struggles to hold 100km/h. The best ones I've found so far are 365277.mod and 365184.mod in the cdi.zip pack of remaps that stjimmy uploaded in 2015. I've been using 365277 since mid-March until a few days ago. I think I saw someone else here describe it as spicy, and it certainly makes a big difference. Those same places on the highway, I can easily hold 110km/h in 6th, and actually accelerate up those hills. Much peppier around town, you can really feel when the boost starts around 2000-2200rpm. It also has the bonus of auto mode shifts quite a bit better, and doesn't wait until 3000rpm to shift. The bad: It's almost too peppy, which can make driving around town a bit jerky. It tends to idle a bit rougher then I like, and scangauge-like devices don't work with that remap. I loaded my stock map again on Saturday to test my new 'scangauge' like device so I can measure boost pressure, fuel economy and a GPS speedometer. I had forgotten how terrible the car was on the stock map, I couldn't take it. Monday, I loaded 365184.mod from that same map pack and it's almost perfect. Better and smoother acceleration without the sudden boost that 365277 has. I can still accelerate in 6th on the highway on the same hills, and the auto mode shifting is VERY good on that one, shifts almost exactly like I would. Just back to my boost gauge not working again. So, if you don't have a device connected to your OBD2 port, I would definitely recommend the 365184.mod! To load them, I have an old Acer 11" netbook with a 64GB SSD that I had Windows XP on. I only have my flash tools and remaps on it, and I don't connect it to the internet. Only takes a couple minutes to write a new remap. It's actually pretty easy after you've done it a few times.

Just following up here so others know. I ordered an MPPS v13.02 cable from Aliexpress and have used it 5 times now successfully. Now I'm trying to find an XDF file so I can use TunerPro to copy the remap and shift points from the 365184.mod to my stock image. Figure that way I can use my ScanGauge and have the better performance and shift characteristics.

It was from the FQ101 guide for engine removal: https://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides/fortwo-450/engine/178-engine-replacement When we raised the subframe I made sure the tab did go up in the plastic hole but didn't end up in right spot, a bit of fiddling with the carpet pulled forward and we were able to guide it in the proper spot by applying and releasing the handbrake without having to drop the subframe again.

Spent the weekend swapping the engine in a friends garage. Raised the car on ramps and jackstands, and used his motorcycle lift table to lower the drive unit, which worked very well for that purpose! We disconnected the brake lines at the subframe, and the abs connectors at the plastic holder. I saw a post from tolsen that mentioned to have the brake pedal wedged between 1/4-1/2 so it won't leak fluid, that worked perfectly! Spent far too long trying to remove the 3 coolant hoses since they seemed to set inside the plastic housing. Ended up heating a bit with a heat gun to eventually get them them off. Instructions I had found online said to remove the parking brake cables from the cup, but actually the whole bar assembly seemed to come out. The single power cable that connects to the starter and alternator was jammed under the starter, so we had to pull it through further and cut the fabric sheath off to get it back through (WHY didn't Smart put a disconnect under the belly pan? I might if I ever have to lower it again). Once free I removed the x-frame, airbox, egr, turbo, intercooler, starter, alternator and ac compressor (discovered broken wire from the green connector to the ac clutch, hoping to try charging that again and see if I have AC). Removed axles, then unbolted the motor mounts and moved the subframe away. Unbolted transmission and flywheel/clutch. Lined up with flywheel with stud on new engine and installed everything in reverse. From start to finish took 18 hours, which I think is rather good for an amateur that's only changed oil, brakes, resoldered SAM, fixed headlights, etc. Now that I know what I'm doing, I'm sure I could halve that time at least. All the things I was worried about, such as the exhaust manifold studs/nuts, turbo oil feed and return were no problem. I had been spraying them with Mr. Wrench for a few days before. Installed a blocking plate on the EGR exhaust feed while in there. Only broke two rusty bolts, one on the intercooler shroud, and the other on the block heater. I do wonder how you could ever remove that starter without removing the subframe, we had a hard enough time getting it in with the engine on the floor. Granted we should have done it before remounting the ac compressor. I did bleed the coolant with the subframe still lowered a bit. Removing the temp sensor seemed to work well and seemed to be fine at first, but after reassembly and a short drive to test, more air seemed to move and lost heat. Topped up with coolant and left it overnight with coolant cover loose and it had dropped level a bit more by morning. Topped up again and now it seems to work perfectly. Lots of heat and no adverse temperature changes on my half hour drive from his garage to home tonight. New engine is much quieter, runs smoother and better power! It's all thanks to the members on this forum, I never would dream of tackling a project like this without all the helpful posts of the wonderful people here. You guys are amazing.

Recently, my 06 Cabrio with 220,000kms suffered an oil pump / chain / etc failure and I believe it ran for ~3-4 mins with zero oil pressure. When I started pricing chains, pump, things I should do when it's apart, and whatever else may have been damaged, I believe it'd be just better to replace the engine with a lower mileage engine. I've found an engine at a local salvage yard with ~86,000km with a year warranty for $500. There seems to be two procedures for removing the engine, one by removing the rear subframe complete, and the other by removing engine/transaxle by lowering and removing engine mounts leaving subframe in place. Any reason one is better then the other? For those of you who've done it, any tips before I jump into this? Thanks!

Anyone have a KWP2000 Plus that they would like to part with? I had purchased a kit in 2010, and am missing the KWP2000Plus module itself (I have all the cables of course), I would love to purchase one from someone who doesn't need it anymore. Thanks!

That would've been terrible! Other then the limited space to work, lucky for me it came out without a fight. The screw was not excessively tight, and came out easily with a 1/4" universal joint, T-30 bit, and a 12" extension. It was a bit of challenge trying to get the connector off, as I could seem to get my fingers around both sides at the same time to release. Eventually was able to release each side one at a time. Sensor came out with a long set of needle nose from the top, once I could rotate it back and forth a bit, using the long pliers at the top, and a long wide flat screwdriver at the bottom once I had a gap to work with. I lubed up the new one in oil and after a few attempts actually got it lined up in the proper orientation with the help of those long needle nose. It wasn't easy, but it could've gone far worse as I've read other stories here. Was driving around for a few hours today, definitely starts easier and runs better, and best part is the lack of random unexpected stops!

Got the crankshaft sensor changed this afternoon. Certainly a pain to do, and my knees are telling me how many times I had to switch from accessing from the top to underneath. I did take the intake hose off to gain a little more room at the top. Biggest problem was the choice between seeing what I needed to do, then trying to do it blind. Took me about 2 hours overall. Old sensor had a crack in the metal tip, likely causing the issues when warm. Seems to idle smoother now, and starts better when cold. Drove from work to home, which I hadn't been able to do. So it seems like that was the culprit, and glad to have my smart back, been driving my work's spare Dodge Caravan....

Picked it up today from where I had to leave it yesterday and drove it to my work were we have a bay and tools so I can work on it. Only about a 15 minute drive so it worked fine. Plugged a cheap scantool in and got P0336, so I guess that certainly points me in that direction. Going to take some time tomorrow and start putting penetrating fluid to the sensor. Another possibility that I will check is the last place in Ontario that the person I bought it from had it serviced, had not put any wire ties back on the looms, and harnesses were jamming the intercooler fan. I fixed that last Saturday, and the problem started on Wednesday, so maybe there's a break or damage in the harness that reacts to heat. The intercooler fan bearing is pretty bad too, rattles and sticks half the time, so gotta replace that too. That being said, anyone have a low cost source for intercooler fans?

The more I read on here, I tend to agree. Looks like they're readily available on Amazon....

A month ago purchased a used 06 Cabrio, and drove it from Ontario to Nova Scotia with no issues. It hadn't been driven much in the last 4 years. For the last month it's been working perfectly, surprisingly good given 17 years old and 205,000km. But all of the sudden two days ago, the engine just 'shuts off' while driving, like it's out of fuel. It only seems to do it after 20-30 minutes of driving, so it's at operating temperature (3 blobs). If you try to start it again, it will crank normally, but not start. If I turn the key to on, you can hear the low pressure pump run then stop. You need to wait ~15 mins, then it will restart like normal and work perfectly again. Tonight it did it twice, first time after 25 mins of driving, had to wait 15 minutes, then again after only 5 minutes. Doesn't appear to matter speed or load, it doesn't stumble, just engine stops running. Hoping to borrow a scantool tomorrow (or get the software working for the Delco DS150e clone I purchased on ali) so I read any codes that might be in there. Thought maybe someone else had experienced the same troubles I'm having. Maybe it's a bad sensor? High pressure rail sensor? Crankshaft position sensor? Thought about maybe some dirt in the fuel filter, but it doesn't make sense that the engine needs to be warm, and it takes 15 minutes to restart after.

Thought I'd check to see if anyone had one laying around they didn't need anymore. I have a kit I bought 12 years ago, but somehow the KWP2000Plus module is missing, I only have the cables. I recently purchased an 06 Cabrio and want to flash the old 365277 to improve shifting and response. Thanks!

I've got an EGR Emulator I had bought from Brian Pinnell (pinhead19) and I used it on my 06 Cabrio. My EGR was working fine, but I didn't like the idea of sooty exhaust choking the little engine. Worked perfectly, and the car did have a more power (according to my butt-dyno anyway). You can see the post here. I have recently traded the car, and I reversed all my modifications. So I'm selling the EGR Emulator for $75 shipped in Canada.

Looking for a front coil spring for a 06 Cabrio.

Where do you source the cabrio stalk? I've been thinking of doing oem cruise, and the local dealers service dept did say they'd activate it for me...

SORRY! I totally missed credit where credit was due! You did bring up the point first!But, in all fairness, tolsen did post all kinds of pretty pictures!BTW, the car seems to be still working great. Now just got to get my damn H&R springs on before my front right spring gives out for good...