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Xen0

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Everything posted by Xen0

  1. So far so good! Tonight I pulled the rear bumper off, and took a 15mm wrench to open the wastegate. It seemed a little stuck, not much, but it did move with a gritty sound. I bought a can of Jig-A-Loo at Canadian Tire this morning, and proceeded to lube up the moving bits. Moves much smoother now. Took a drive tonight to hill on the highway where it ALWAYS acts up, and had no problems. Tried a few other hills at a higher rate of speed in 5th as well, and no safe mode! Thanks again tolsen!
  2. Thanks tolsen, you are always a wealth of knowledge and I welcome your expertise. I'll give this a try next week.
  3. I have a generic scantool, but it didn't show anything (plus it pissed off my trust+ for a day). Do I need a ScanGauge, or a trip to the dealer to see the codes? I'm certainly willing the lube the wastegate actuator, it looks fairly easy to do and a lot cheaper then most other things it could be.
  4. It will go over 3000 revs though when it happens, actually, if I'm trying to get up a steep grade, I'll probably have to drop to 4th or even 3rd with it revving 3500-4000. I can keep doing 100kmh on the highway on a level-grade in 5th, slight downhill in 6th. 30 seconds turned off is all it needs to work normally again.
  5. Well, my problem still remains. I have a bit more information to add though. I thought before that it was linked to when I shifted, but it's not totally. It only happens when the engine is under higher load. Such as on a steep grade on the highway. If I'm travelling 100kmh, and shift to fifth and depress the pedal to beyond 3/4 it will give a quick shutter and loose power. Then it won't regain power until I shut the car off for 30 seconds and restart. Even if I remain in fifth (or fourth) and go up a steep grade it will still do it.Thought it might be a plugged fuel filter, so I replaced the water separator/fuel filter today, no change. Guess it's got to be a fuel pressure issue, or air pressure issue. Anyone have an ideas? I might have to make an appointment to run a scan on it, wish the damn thing would light the CEL, and let me scan it with my own tool...
  6. I ordered these ones. I should have them Tuesday and hopefully get the front ones on next week or weekend with any luck. I'll let everyone know once they're on there...
  7. Hey everyone,Anyone have the H&R Sport springs installed in their smart? I've got a broken front spring, and thought instead of buying a single OE spring for $125 I bought a set of 4 for $144 from Tirerack.com. I'm hoping the ride won't be too stiff, roads aren't great here in rural Nova Scotia...
  8. I'm fairly certain it's original, as I bought the car with 36,000km and now I have 73,000km. I guess I'll watch the other post about coolant types to use and put that on my to-do list. I'm just waiting for CT to get another bottle of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in, and I'll be doing the transmission.
  9. So when I had the front off the car today, I noticed my coolant was quite dark in colour. Kinda scared me at first, as I own another car that I've been trying to track down a coolant/oil problem for a long while. It doesn't smell like oil, and when you pull out a small amount, it's a tint of blue. The car hasn't lost any oil between changes, no overheating, just normal 3 blobs even on a hot day. Coolant level is just above min. Is there dark coloured coolant that I don't know about, or a mix of two different types that becomes blue?Any ideas?
  10. I took my clutch actuator off today and popped the rod out to have a look inside. Seemed very clean with a little bit of lube in there. I sprayed a bunch more in there and then followed the procedure to adjust it. Seems to shift much better, especially in reverse. It always seemed to slip a bit more then I thought was normal in reverse, but never really thought much of it. I'm going to make an appointment in the next couple of weeks to have the electronic bits done. I'm also going to change the transmission fluid, but I have to wait until Crappy Tire gets some more Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, they only had one bottle when I went in.On another note, I've had a bit of a rattle from the front passenger side for a while now, only when turning a corner and hitting some bumps. I read on here on another post about someone who also had an 06 Cabrio and the bolt on the top of the strut was loose. I took the front off and checked the nut, and it seemed tight enough. Had a look up underneath, and low-and-behold, I've got a broken spring.....Now I've gotta decide if I want to tackle the spring myself, pay the dealer to do it, or trust a local shop who's never touched a smart....Anyone know where I can get a good deal on a replacement spring? Anyone on here put lowering springs on and want to sell one?
  11. Thanks CANMAN. I did do the actuator lube like in Duck's video last summer. My actuator used to make funny noises after I shut off the car and it released the clutch. After the treatment, the sound went away and I did notice smoother shifts.Funny thing is that shifting seems to be quite smooth, but after it acts up, it's a bit more harsh. It's not terrible, but it seems like very quick engagements. Shut off for 30 seconds and all is normal.I will try the adjustment, that's easy. I may book an appointment at the dealer to have them at least run STAR on it and see what codes might be in there. Might as well reteach the clutch while it's connected.Thanks for the info about the clutch fork failures, I guess I'll remove the actuator and lube that too!
  12. I hadn't thought about the transmission, and now that I think of it, it does happen when I'm downshifting or upshifting. That would also explain the lack of codes, only the Star would see transmission codes. I wonder if a clutch adjustment would help, I expect the last one it had was at the 32,000 B service. Although according to my maintenance book, the car was serviced by a mobile unit from another dealer. I doubt they could do the clutch adjustment via a mobile service unit. I've only had 1 A service at the dealer, as I thought $200 was a bit steep for basically an oil change and check brakes/fluids. Plus they're an hour and half from me and aren't open any evenings or weekends, so I have to take time off work. So me and my Pela do the oil changes...
  13. I've got a problem that I'm hoping someone has some ideas, or has experienced it before and has a fix for me. I'll be driving along normally, and I'll start up a moderate grade, requiring me to push the accelerator pedal a bit. The car will give a little hitch, like a misfire on a gas engine. After this little hitch the car seems to loose a LOT of power. If I want to try to keep speeds over 80km/h, I must be in 5th or even 4th on a hill. I do have to pretty much floor it and shift over 3.5k to accelerate. No lights illuminate, or anything else when this happens. I've run a generic scantool on the car and there are no stored codes that it can see. To resolve the problem I just pull off the road, turn the car off for 30 seconds or so, restart and it works normally. This can happen once a week, once a month, or multiple times a day. It's been happening on a more frequent basis lately. First time was in late March I believe. I do have the EGR simulator that's sold here installed, but that wasn't until mid-June. I did have a different ECU flash, but 2 weeks ago I flashed it back to my original. The car currently has just over 70,000 kms on it and everything else has been working well.Any ideas?
  14. Great, thanks! Will try this tomorrow! Probably should lube the cabrio rails at the same time I suppose...
  15. Anyone else have this problem with the windows, only when putting them up. When they get 2/3's of the way up, they seem to drag on the rear side, and make awful noises. Many times I'll have to give them some assistance, and I find if I pull them slightly forward, they'll go up fine. Is there some kind of wax or lubricant I can put on the half-window seal, or should I take the door skins off and grease the rails? Thanks!
  16. Thanks for the replies guys, I check around some of the marine shops and see if they have anything that might do the trick. Otherwise I may have to bite the bullet, and take a trip into the dealer and see if they can order the part.
  17. The little plastic clip that tensions the cabrio top has broken on the passengers side. Anyone know where I could source a replacement other then visiting the dealer? Even a part number could help, or any ideas on a non-oem replacement that would work. Wind whistles around the top, and it's starting to get to me a bit.I've attached a photo of the broken clip, so you can see the part needed.Thanks!
  18. I recently installed Goodride SP06 195/50/R15's on my stock Jetlines, WAY better then the Bridgestone B340's. Better ride quality, better cornering, better stability in cross-winds. Cheaper too at $68 per tire.Anyone know if I can use a 155 on the front instead of the 145's on the 4" rim?
  19. I've "sampled" the diesel at all the local stations here in the Kentville, Nova Scotia area. All the local stations are about the same (Sobeys Fast Fuel, Shell, PetroCan, Irving, Ultramar), except for Esso. Using Esso diesel, I have more power, smoother idle, and I get better mileage.Go figure...
  20. Thought I'd post my tire experience that I've had recently. Got a screw in the sidewall of my rear passenger Bridgestone b340 a couple weeks ago. Of course, that was a week after I had a sharp rock puncture the Bridgestone on the drivers side (patchable, luckily). I went looking for a replacement, as the tire shop I normally deal with couldn't get me anything at all that would fit. I called around and found the Bridgestone dealer, and he could order me a replacement B340, at $140 ea, and would take 3 weeks to arrive. Well, I'm not waiting for that. I could get a set of Conti's from the dealer for around $125 ea, but I hadn't read a lot of good things on here about those either. So I decided to see if I could find 195/50/15's instead, as I wouldn't mind a little wider tire on the back. One of the local dealers had two Goodride SP06's left, not ever hearing of them before, I decided to do some googling and see what I could find. Of course, they're a Chinese manufacturer who produces Goodride and Westlake tires, but they seem to be rated quite well. Big advantage is that they were $68 ea. Since I could buy both, for the price of one Bridgestone, and have them installed that day, I put them on. I was surprised to find how much better they handle then the Bridgestones. I can corner at faster speeds, bumps in the road are now annoying instead of back-breaking, and wind gusts on the highway don't push be towards the ditch anymore. They might not last as long (although they have a very deep tread), but for the price, safety and performance benefits, they're worth it in my mind. Now if I could only put a wider tire on the front without buying new wheels...
  21. After reading all of the posts here, I decided to order a KWP2000+ from one of the Hong Kong sellers on ebay. The softtouch on my 06 is useless, it NEVER shifts below 3000, and always shifts rough. My programmer arrived yesterday, and thought I might as well give it a try. Grabbed my trusty XP Acer netbook, and I obtained the 365184 version from chiptuners.org. Read my original image (which is version 380100) first. Wouldn't work in fast mode, only slow. Took about 2:50 to read. Opened the new image and programmed it, took about a minute more. Just got back from a drive, and first impressions, WOW! This is a different car! My intercooler fan before ran ALL the time, now it seems to be only on when it needs to, making the car quieter, especially at idle. The automatic is amazing, it's fully usable now, it shifts when it's appropriate and VERY smooth. Smoother then the paddles/softip at low throttle. Seems to have a little bit more pull up a hill too. Guess I'll have a better feeling over the next few days. I did notice, as someone else mentioned, it prompts you to upshift now, quite early actually. I've NEVER seen that UP arrow before! Anyway, it was simple and quick, I'd recommend it to anyone who actually paid for softtouch and never uses it. Thanks to the others who brought this up, I wouldn't have been brave enough to try it without others posting about their experiences.
  22. Do you have any pics of your double-din creation? I too have a double din dvd from another car, and have been pondering the idea of installing it in the smart. Just wasn't sure how it'd look if I attempted to make something...
  23. After lurking through the forums here for the past 5 years, I've finally purchased a nice cabrio. Unfortunately, the previous owners didn't feel the sound upgrade was required.Looking to purchase, new or used, the factory bass bins. I don't need speakers, I work at a car audio shop.
  24. 1993 Saturn SL1 5spd - Bought it with 200,000km, sold it with almost 300,000kms on it. Worked like a charm. 1998 Saturn SC1 auto - thought I wanted something a little sportier, paid too much though, traded it on Aveo. 2004 Chevy Aveo5 LS 5spd - leased it from GM, now I'm stuck and don't want to be. Great car though, decent gas mileage. 1997 Saturn SC1 5spd - Bought it wrecked, fixed it up. My fiancee drives it now. I have the habit of getting a new car every 2-3 years. Starting to feel the itch, but I'll have to wait until 08 when my lease is over on the Aveo. I had actually put a deposit down at Mercedes in Halifax (#13) before the fortwo was available, but found the payments too high when it actually arrived. Looked around for small cars, and got the Aveo5. The payments were far lower than the Echo, and equipped better. I get 40-44mpg which is acceptable. Still wish I had a fortwo...
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