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About joey

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  • Location
    Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
  1. I’ve probably put another 50 plus km on the car and all still seems well. I’ve never dropped the engine via the sub frame before. When I replaced the thermostat a few years ago I disconnected one of the engine mounts which gave me enough room to do the job.
  2. I finally got my "new to me" clutch actuator. Its in great condition - a bit dirty but zero corrosion on it. It came from Poland. It works perfectly. I drove about 20 km and so far no problems. My water pump leaks a bit of coolant (next project) and I always know when I need to top up the coolant because the engine reaches temperature (3 blobs) rather quickly. Both times I had the transmission issue the coolant was a bit low... could this be related to the problem?
  3. I got all what you mentioned except it didn’t stall. Several hour later it worked fine again which I don’t understand. $182 for the actuator and it should be here tomorrow... I hope.
  4. Well.... my Smart acted up on me again and I had to get it towed home. I bought a used clutch actuator off ebay since mine looks like something from the bottom of the ocean. It's clean inside but the motor's case is badly rusted and actually has a pin hole in it.
  5. I finally got time to remove the actuator. When removing the connector I don't think it was fully seated as it came off quite easily. I plugged it back in making sure it was fully seated then tried removing it and it took much more effort to remove it. The brass acorn nut is still doing its job preventing the actuator rod from poking through the clutch fork. The grease inside the actuator wasn't hard and is still clean. I put it all back together and took the car for a 10km drive and all seems fine. It's shifting much smoother so the actuator definitely needed adjusting.
  6. There’s a hole but I have a brass acorn nut on the end of the rod. I used brass so it would be the sacrificial part.. not the fork. It’s been on there for several years now.
  7. The orange triangle light came on but only after the second incident. It was off after the six hour wait. I checked the clutch actuator and there was very little preload there. I’ll remove it and do a clean and re lube.
  8. I did a search but couldn't find a thread with the same issues I'm having. I was in my '06 CDI in slow moving traffic when all of a sudden the transmission acted like I popped the clutch. The tires squealed and the car lurched forward. After that the car wouldn't go. The engine didn't stall, no 3 bars and when I selected reverse, neutral or A that all worked but the car just wouldn't move. I pushed the car off the road and turned it off. I restarted it after about a minute and it worked fine... for about 5 minutes.. then it did it again but this time a quick restart didn't fix it. I pushed the car into a parking lot where it stayed for about 6 hours while I went off to work. When I returned the transmission worked fine and I drove it home which was about 3 kilometers. About a year ago I repaired the clutch actuator wire harness where after it rubbed through on the engine so I don't think thats the problem. I'll pull the clutch actuator later on today to see if there's any issues there. Any other ideas? Thanks!
  9. Go with what it says on the door jamb. The max pressure marked on the tire is just that... the max the tire can be inflated. Anything over 29 psi and the car will be all over the road and the ride will be harsh.
  10. I just had to replace my oil pan two months ago. I got a new one from the dealer, $77 taxes inc., and welded in a drain plug myself.
  11. I'm the second owner of my '06 Smart. The original owners had all the work done by the dealer. When I went to service the clutch actuator I found the bolt near the connector was broken off almost flush to the block. Also, the part the bolt goes through on the actuator was broke off. I got the broken bolt out by welding a washer to it, then welding a nut to the washer. I then had to rig up a spacer and large washer to work around to the broken ear on the actuator. I used anti-seize on the bolts upon re-installation. Of coarse I noticed a small hole starting in my clutch fork. I used a brass acorn nut on the end of the actuator rod with a good blob of EP-2 moly grease. I clean and re-grease every few months. It seems to be working - the hole isn't getting any bigger, there's no wear on the brass acorn nut and that was over a year ago...
  12. My brass acorn nut fix is going on 8 months now. Every few months I remove the actuator, clean off the old moly EP-2 grease and re-apply new grease. I see no wear on the brass nut and the hole in the fork doesn't seen to be getting any bigger. I'll replace the fork someday...
  13. Buy a 12 volt battery charger at Canadian Tire or where ever. Remove battery and bring it inside your condo and hook it up to the battery charger. While the battery is out, remove the 6 large screw-out covers/caps and check the water level. If any are low - lead plates are visible - top up with distilled water which is available at Canadian tire or most grocery stores.
  14. It's in 'theft' lock mode. You need the four digit code to unlock it. The code is on a card that comes with the user manual package.
  15. Thanks for the info. I have the block heater cord with the Amphenal C16-1 circular connector which I use when below freezing. I topped up the water level in the battery with deionized water and gave it a charge and all seems well again. The starter now turns over quicker so I hope I won't have a repeat of the car not starting again in cold temps... we'll see.