LooseLugNuts

the way fuel prices are going it might be worth it to just get it running and to get it to a dealer and get a proper reliable key made it will only hurt for a few days

none... i have no idea why it would do that but maybe swapping out the ignition antenna reading loop with a used one if you can find one (im guessing theres one near the ignition like my volvo has) or keep tinkering with erase and teach functions and hope it works one time or maybe try adding extra keys

i was able program an original fob with a delphi ds150e or 650e (i cant remember what it was called) it was a rough couple of days...i tried programming some extra chinese sourced keys and did something wrong and in the process it deprogrammed my original keys after having the local "smart" garage idiots tell me it was a 30 day minimum wait for a simple key programming appointment i managed to get my original ones reprogrammed after several attempts...was too scared to keep trying on the chinese ones and just gave them to the new owner as parts when i eventually sold the smart

she doesnt sound very even on the compression when cranking ...skips... but its been a while since ive heard one crank...it sure sounds slow and cold

stick a heater under the back....or a magnetic block heater on the oil pan for a few hours to give it a better chance diesel 911 would be good to add if you suspect gelled up fuel

personally id only buy a gasser if it was super cheap...and even then id just lift kit it and pass it on down the road for profit

no/////////// just imagine the joy and elation when you finally get it running good it will be 1000 times more magnificent and satisfying than a 3second cliff jump

you have 3 old ones in your engine that you should (very carefully) replace with 3 new ones; ) and its a good idea to ream out the glow plug bores while youre in there...i remember welding a long bolt to a drill bit to get that job done...i dont remember what sized bit i used but i do remember coating it in grease first to minimize the amoiunt of carbon that inevitably falls into the combustion chamber

find a kit with a gauge that goes high enough for a diesel (0-500 or 0-400 should be good enough) then knock the guts out of an old glow plug and weld up whatever you need to connect the empty glow plug housing to the kit hose

did you get in there yet and find the problem?

did you manage to get in there yet?

just remembered where i seen the sam pin out >> https://www.fq101.co.uk/how-to-guides/fortwo-450/electrical/251-sam-wiring

forgot about that thing... in case Mas doesnt know what the ebox is ..if i remember right it was a metal box containing an added circuit board and was mounted near the battery but a lot of owners had moved it up toward the front of the shifter console to minimize corrosion problems while your in the battery area might as well go after that other problem...the white connector toward the front of the battery that corrodes and makes the little dash master lock area pod lights stay on ...just cut it out and solder the wires directly

pretty sure ive seen a pinout for the plugs on the fuse box once ...but i dont remember where if you could find that you could at least verify a brake signal is leaving the sam.. do the signal lights work?...i remember one time i had brake light issues on a non-smart car and the problem ending up being the signal stalk ...