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About Willys

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    Anything Smart Car

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    Pefferlaw, Ontario Canada

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  1. This company don't seem to make them for a fourtwo....lol ???
  2. You did check the clearances on the push rods or rockers that hold the valves open right...? Just asking for a friend...lol. Sometime when lapping valves etc things change and we aren't aware of what it may have done in relation to the rest of the engine pieces...? Did you do a leak down test to see where the loss of pressure was coming from? Again asking for a friend...lol. I'm sure you thought of these things....but if you didn't...? The block never froze did it? Get the head tested for invisable cracks, magna-flux or something ...can't remember what the process is called...? Here's hoping it a simple easy fix, hate to see a piece of real history go bad.
  3. Check clean replace any bad wiring connections anywhere on the subframe unit. Engine, etc etc. Gear selection motor and actuator, starter, alt. IF, you are energetic and a bit curious....read up on oil pump,chain and sprocket issues.....When i took the two engines I have done, both had leaking intake gasket rings. You could visually see where they were letting air get past them.! They are cheap if i recall correctly at MW-SMART in germany. It's where I purchased all y engine parts when i completely rebuilt my engine, clutch and transmission. I also separated the single power cable that services the alt and starter so it's far easier to remove either one in the future. You don't need to fiddle with power cable with your finger tips trying to undo cables to allow unit to come away from engine. Depending upon what your inter cooler scoop looks like at the lower end of it, you could remake it using tin or ducting I made mine an inch longer to get more air. BUT, it means you will be an inch closer to the road that rips it off...lol. So always wary of objects on the road from now on. I also encased my inter cooler scoop path way to make the air travel more directly into inter cooler and not rely on body to direct the air into the inter cooler. Yes way over kill but it was there staring at me...lol...! I used rubber floor mating so it is flexible as it may come into contact with body work when the sub frame is re attached to body. Check all engine mounts for cracking or complete failure, too soft of rubber? I also made a shield to protect the alt from debris off road. and removed the hard plastic shield as it is too close to alt and it holds dirt against the alt I found. I again made this shield with the same rubber mating that i used for the inter cooler scoop. It's just the rubber flooring from Princess Auto sold my the meter. The drive shaft bearings that hold the drive shaft in the transmission can get worn and come loose....I changed both of mine, it tightened it up greatly! Check wheel bearings and also shocks for leaks or lack of pressure. I found one of mine was dead at the top of the stroke.....badly rusted...just the one...? Also IF you are curious, take off the air booster pump and peer into it's drive mechanism. You may find it all deformed where it makes contact within it'self. It's on the top right end of the cam shaft....mine looked like it was beaten by a hammer! Found one new in Romania reasonable. You could always install a oil pan with drain plug! If so, make up a guard that sits in front of plug to protect it from getting hit and deforming pan, a simple half moon shaped 1/4" piece welded to oil pan works well. All of these things I have pictures of in my engine rebuild thread in WIKI section....if you are interested.
  4. Yes the car vibrates when at lower rev's and that is where I drive it most of the time to keep my MPGs so good. You said you were thinking of making one that somehow pushes against the glass and then attaches to the lower part of the stock stalk just above where the ball is to help stop the vibration . I'm sure it would work if it has a sticky attachment point against the glass and somehow clamps/clips onto the stock stalk...? IF it simply rests against the glass it will still bounce off the glass when the body vibrates. It needs to be double sided taped or my favorite siliconed to the glass to stop that bouncing. I saw somewhere that someone was making the shorter stalks but never bought one thinking the view out the back may be reduced or headlights at night being more direct, I don't remember but didn't pull the trigger...Hmmm..? I'll have to search out the thingiverse and see if that works or not....back in a few.......... I like this idea...... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3208037
  5. How about a mirror stiffener to help stop it from vibrating so the image is perfect....? Something that clips onto end of mirror ball or near to and then forward to push against the windshield...? Just a suggestion.....lol Please.... OR can you make a shorter mirror stalk.....or will it not be good to see through when shorter??? Lifting the mirror upwards and not allowing good visability through rear window?
  6. I have done the very same thing, changed every wearable item on my good car ready for trouble free driving........fingers crossed.....it's the only way....lol
  7. It needs to be 12V for a good solid start I have found. Especially if you use glow plugs to warm her up. This car is super sensitive to voltage drops and ground issues.
  8. Lift the body up away from sub frame even if you just take out the front bolts and loosen the rears, this will allow large hands the space to get at the water pump from above....Better way is to lift it up as far as it goes and chock the wheels and when finished lower it back down....after you have done this procedure once it will be the way you always work on your engine in a Smart Car...imho.
  9. OK, here it is, stolen/borrowed from Evilution, thank you very much....the process how to test your glow plugs. https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=engine&mod=948 I will say Evilution is the best technical site for our or any Smart Cars but unfortunately they do not have a chat section or there would be no reason on earth to use another site imho. That is why our site is the best...we can chat and discuss what we need, know or wish to learn about. And we basically specialize in the CDI version it seems. Which is a good thing...lol. Anyway I hope this helps and is OK to post.
  10. Follow the check process for the glow plugs.....electronically, check for correct voltages and such.....it's easy once you get to the correct instructions...lol. I'm sure LLNs knows exactly how to check them and can recite the procedure off the top of his head...lol
  11. Buy new nozzles and clean the injectors using sonic cleaner deep enough to submerge the entire injector all but the top electrical section, or remove that part.....but pay strict attention as to where all the bits go and only do one injector at a time...lol. You do not need to calibrate the injectors to get them to work perfectly, imho as I have done many already this way without any issues at all.
  12. Yes i know about the two pins to short and tried it but it didn't work for me, will be done before next winter. Never assume the grounding pins are good by looking at them as the corrosion will be between the eyelets I have found and usually is hidden. Just sasing is all....always take the whole clump apart to check. Wouldn't be my first at finding corrosion deep between a few eyelets. I wouldn't bounce it too hard or you may be re-replacing coils...lol
  13. Possibly, I haven't had an issue with that yet...? I will say mine works very well as it won't allow the car to do anything but go in a straight line when playing in the snow..... It would be nice to be able to turn off all the safety crap once in a while just to have some fun on the back roads from time to time....lol. You have replaced your headlights...? Make sure you do the headlight relay mod. It will save your SAM from cooking itself....same goes for the fuel pump.
  14. Old tricks we used to play for the idiot lights before inspection, if no codes were showing or we reset them and drove the car just long enough to reset the computer but not long enough to trigger codes.....not something that should be broadcast but it's old history now...lol. Then if the issue didn't throw a code we simply removed the dash light that stayed on. OR covered it up with tape and left it lit behind the dash. Again ...I didn't tell you...lol. Yes all 4 wheels have sensors and yes the spring problem did mess with the sensors when they broke in some occasions. So worth the inspection. When inspecting the front, again, check the grounding pins on the outside firewall area, well known to rust. If I remember right behind the headlights.
  15. Stunning, excellent, I should have done it to mine as the oxidation has started already and it hasn't been outside yet! Love the colour also. Can't wait to see the finished project.